(nklr) oil (continued)

[Skip Faulkner]

[b]List ,[/b] [b]  To finish my previous post regarding some information I obtained yesterday from two different oil companies, but both generally agreeing on the matters discussed.[/b] [b]   First, I talked with an engineer at Citgo,[/b] [b]who supplies oil under the brand names [/b] [b]Kawasaki, Yamalube and Suzuki. Keep in mind that while the above oils may be similar in base, they have some differences in additive blends, which may or may not be important, as I`ve yet to get specific composition on these oils due to the fact that they are deemed proprietary and protected by the companies they`re licensed to. I will get it, eventually.[/b] [b]    The engineer I spoke with,(who has been very generous over the past two years in speaking off the record) told me that in regard to the Kawasaki oil, the SJ standards have been met, except in the zinc and phosphorous levels. Therefore the oil is not truly API rated, but meets the standards. Some lots of Kawasaki oil are API rated, but since all weights other than 5w30 and 10w30 have been allowed to maintain zinc and phosph. levels up to 1200 ppm, it`s not a factor. He said they could really care less, as API requirements are really buckling under pressure for environmental concerns at the expense of oil performance and API ratings may fail to become a consumer importance. Both he and my Shell contact did state that the friction modifiers in auto oils have shown to cause some slippage problems in pressure and friction sensitive assemblies, such as transmissions. Correspondingly, if the needed zinc and phosphorous levels for high stress operation of transmissions is replaced with these same friction modifiers, your out of luck with wet clutches. [/b] [b]     There is a solution, recommended by both engineers, if you want to save money and not be limited to motorcycle oils. I have already recommended this previously, and that is the heavy duty diesel oils.  While they both insisted that there are specific additives in motorcycle oils that  are critical for the unique operating conditions and perimeters that auto oils are not designed for, diesel oil has similar additives as motorcycle oils and the friction modifiers used to comply with API SDI are very different than those used in auto oils and are very favorable for motorcycle use, including wet transmission. BUT, this only applies to the heavy duty diesel oils with the CH4/SJ and SG/SH API ratings and donut. This includes 15w40 and 20w50. The 20w50 is too heavy for use in my climate, but others may benefit, plus the 20w50 and heavier weights ( including auto oils) have been shown to measurably reduce horsepower in less hot environments due to their higher resistance to flow.  These weights in the diesel oils are exempt from the lowered zinc and phosphorous levels. Apparently this is now in effect. It was also recommended to choose the SH or SG diesel oils and auto oils ( still being produced) if you can find them. So why use auto oil when this oil is available for comparable prices with better performance factors.[/b] [b]     Several oil companies are (behind the scenes)actively trying to rescind the SJ rating ,and if not successful, may divide production to resume SG/SH [/b] [b]sales for older vehicles and motorcycles. I was told several cycle companies are pressuring for this also.[/b] [b]    As to the synthetics, Mobil 1 auto oil still shows to be a safe synthetic oil, since they have somehow not lowered their levels much below the pre-SJ version, even though there is a maximum zinc and phosphorus level required to get the API SJ rating donut. The lower weights ( 5w and 10w`s) have been lowered quite a bit (.012% max).[/b] [b]    Do with this info as you see fit. I am currently using Kawasaki oil because I`m getting a good deal on it, but I`m going back to the diesel if this changes.[/b] [b]    Remember, as mentioned by others also, closer frequency of oil changes can help offset the use of less appropriate oil.[/b]      [b]Sorry for the length of this.[/b]   [b]Skip[/b]