nklr rust converter

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EVO
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue May 25, 2004 4:45 am

carburetor tuning

Post by EVO » Tue May 25, 2004 5:45 am

I just added a Jardine straight thru fiber glass packed muffler to free up the exhaust and let it sound a bit more like a single. Well they said no jetting needed but it now only starts and idles on choke and will not take any throttle at all, just stalls, same if I turn off choke after warm up motor just stops. So I'm sure someone has ideas on what is needed and also how do I drill out the pilot screw plug, do you need to remove carb. or can you rotate it enough? Guy's, I've ridden and worked on my dirt and dual sport bikes for over 50 years so I'm not a novice. Thanks for any help or suggestions. Ed. 04-KLR 650 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

bigfatgreenbike
Posts: 814
Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2003 5:24 pm

carburetor tuning

Post by bigfatgreenbike » Tue May 25, 2004 7:59 am

If you mean mashonline.com (they didn't list their name when they listed the old-style Jardine I bought on Ebay this past winter), yeah they told me the same thing. They also told me it was "barely louder than stock" which was sheer bullsh*t as well. If you mean a new style Jardine, that thing was rated at 102db, I hope you don't live anywhere near me. Or anyone who votes. First, just drilling out the pilot screw won't really sort the jetting, you'll also want some washers under the needle and maybe a bigger main (maybe only one up) and . I didn't think the Jardine had anything on the stock pipe on the high end, and I definitely don't think it was as "driveable" as the stock pipe. It also sticks out farther AND doesn't have a spark arrestor. Who the hell sells a road-use-only pipe for a dualsport bike? And I'm not sure what you mean by "sounds like a single", I thought it "sounded like a single with a crappy exhaust". Not to mention the Jardine paint flaked off the second time I ran the bike, and the pipe looks like it was used for ten years, not two months. AND, if you use anything other than a stock tire or road-biased d/s tire the fat midpipe will foul the rear wheel. My advice is to sell the thing to someone not on the list, or return it because your bike won't run with it as they had promised. Take the money and buy progressive fork springs, or a sheepskin, or handguards, etc- there's a million other places to put that money that will improve the experience of riding and owning that bike. Buy a cover, buy a trickle charger, but a years worth of oil and filters, buy a spare stock air filter so you just change it when needed and clean the dirty one later........ I'm back to the stock pipe. Tried a lot of exhausts, always ended up back to stock. Devon 31evo@... wrote:
>I just added a Jardine straight thru fiber glass packed muffler to free up >the exhaust and let it sound a bit more like a single. Well they said no >jetting needed but it now only starts and idles on choke and will not take any throttle >at all, just stalls, same if I turn off choke after warm up motor just stops. >So I'm sure someone has ideas on what is needed and also how do I drill out the pilot >screw plug, do you need to remove carb. or can you rotate it enough? > >Guy's, I've ridden and worked on my dirt and dual sport bikes for over 50 years >so I'm not a novice. Thanks for any help or suggestions. Ed. 04-KLR 650 > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: >DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >
-- Devon Brooklyn, NY A15-Z '01 KLR650 '81 SR500 cafe racer "The truth's not too popular these days....." Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man

Judson D. Jones
Posts: 1037
Joined: Sun Sep 29, 2002 11:52 am

carburetor tuning

Post by Judson D. Jones » Tue May 25, 2004 8:18 am

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, bigfatgreenbike wrote:
> > My advice is to sell the thing to someone not on the list, or return it > because your bike won't run with it as they had promised. Take the money > and buy progressive fork springs, or a sheepskin, or handguards, etc- > there's a million other places to put that money that will improve the > experience of riding and owning that bike. Buy a cover, buy a trickle > charger, but a years worth of oil and filters, buy a spare stock air > filter so you just change it when needed and clean the dirty one > later........ > > I'm back to the stock pipe. Tried a lot of exhausts, always ended up > back to stock. >
And I'm cheap enough to be pleased to benefit from your experience.

Eric L. Green
Posts: 837
Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2004 1:41 pm

nklr rust converter

Post by Eric L. Green » Tue May 25, 2004 9:49 am

On Tue, 25 May 2004, Gerald Langabee wrote:
> Thanks Eric, and all those who commented, I was waiting for that > definitive post which contained all the necessary info needed.
Well, I wouldn't call my post definitive. I did a bit of old car restoration some years back, and there is a LOT more definitive stuff out there. Check out an auto body restoration manual at the library for more info, especially one aimed at restoring "classic" cars, which typically have serious rust problems (especially old Volkswagons, whose floorboards are often Flintstones Specials). -E

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