Re: [mg-tabc] Re: Sparkplugs - Again

[Gene Gillam]

All you mechanics out there, I need some help. please.

I'm in the final stages of a restoration - the car is together for the most
part and I've driven it around the neighborhood, terrorizing dogs, cats and
people that accidentally stray into my path (I stay WAY to the right -
smile). The engine was resleeved back to standard, new pistons, rings,
valves and valve guides installed (compression for each cylinder runs
130 -135 psi) and the carburetors rebuilt. But, since I did the
assembly/reassembly myself there's a good possibility that I've goofed
somewhere since the engine misses no matter what I do to the carburetors and
I've noticed a lot of black carbon buildup on the plugs.

Recently there was a thread concerning the sparkplugs the *Listers* are
using in their cars and I'm wondering, if it isn't something I've done wrong
in the assembly, if changing my plugs could help. I'm using NGK B6H S plugs
and wonder if there is a hotter set that might burn a little cleaner and
possibly help the engine run smoother?

I'm about at wits end - any suggestions will be appreciated (except using a
bigger hammer :^)

Gene

[David Edgar]

Gene - Since there are alot of variables here give us some more info.
What does the exhaust look like. Is it black? If so recheck the
carbs. Even rebuilt carbs could be set wrong and giving you a very rich
mixture causing a misfire. Maybe even try disconnecting fuel pump and run
on fuel in carb bowls until they run dry. Did it start running better (as
fuel dropped in bowl) before dying due to a lack of fuel? Clean off the
plugs first.
When does it miss? At idle, acceleration, at speed? Try disconnecting or
shorting out each spark plug one by one and see if one is pulling less of
a load than the others. If so check the electrics on that circuit (cap,
rotor, wire, plug).

Dave Edgar, TC 5108

On Mon, 1 May 2000, Gene Gillam wrote:

> All you mechanics out there, I need some help. please.
>
> I'm in the final stages of a restoration - the car is together for the most
> part and I've driven it around the neighborhood, terrorizing dogs, cats and
> people that accidentally stray into my path (I stay WAY to the right -
> smile). The engine was resleeved back to standard, new pistons, rings,
> valves and valve guides installed (compression for each cylinder runs
> 130 -135 psi) and the carburetors rebuilt. But, since I did the
> assembly/reassembly myself there's a good possibility that I've goofed
> somewhere since the engine misses no matter what I do to the carburetors and
> I've noticed a lot of black carbon buildup on the plugs.
>
> Recently there was a thread concerning the sparkplugs the *Listers* are
> using in their cars and I'm wondering, if it isn't something I've done wrong
> in the assembly, if changing my plugs could help. I'm using NGK B6H S plugs
> and wonder if there is a hotter set that might burn a little cleaner and
> possibly help the engine run smoother?
>
> I'm about at wits end - any suggestions will be appreciated (except using a
> bigger hammer :^)
>
> Gene
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

[Locktc7440@aol.com]

Sounds like the float level may be set wrong. be sure this is set right or it
might flood the engine with raw fuel and make lots of nice black smoke....

[Gene Gillam]

Dave,

I'll check all that tomorrow and let you know the results...but right now it
misses at idle, seems to smooth out as I load it and the revs go up. Yes,
there's black soot on the wall of the garage where the exhaust comes out of
the car - and the plugs have a sort of thin oily black residue on them.

Gene


You wrote:

Gene - Since there are alot of variables here give us some more info.
What does the exhaust look like. Is it black? If so recheck the
carbs. Even rebuilt carbs could be set wrong and giving you a very rich
mixture causing a misfire. Maybe even try disconnecting fuel pump and run
on fuel in carb bowls until they run dry. Did it start running better (as
fuel dropped in bowl) before dying due to a lack of fuel? Clean off the
plugs first.
When does it miss? At idle, acceleration, at speed? Try disconnecting or
shorting out each spark plug one by one and see if one is pulling less of
a load than the others. If so check the electrics on that circuit (cap,
rotor, wire, plug).

[CFritz7001@aol.com]

Gene,
I'm keying in on your use of the words "oily black deposits". During
break-in a certain amount of oil-burning & its resulting oily deposits is
inevitable for a few miles, especially if the sleeves were not lightly honed
(cross-hatched) after they were installed. Piston rings can take a very
long time to seat (break in) on very smooth cylinder walls. If your plugs
are OILY, they are probably not the entire problem, even though they may be
PART of the solution.
Getting black, dry-sooty exhaust usually indicates a very rich mixture,
so:
1) Do you have the right carb needles and jets, and are they un-worn? 2) Are
the carbs adjusted properly? 3) is the fuel level too high -you can adjust
this by bending the forked float-follower lever, and also by pivoting the
float-bowls toward the engine to lower the level, or away from the engine to
raise the fuel level (Don't forget to re-tighten the float-bol mounting bolt
if you do this bowl-pivoting bit to fine-tune the fuel level at the carb jet)
4) Is your fuel pump overpowering the needle-valves that should regulate
fuel levels in the float bowls.
Hope these thought will help
Regards,
Carl Fritzs

[Dean Jensen]

Gene
Did you by chance change the condensor in the distributor? I have had
problems with it doing similar. You can buy one and
connect it to the screw terminal on the side of the distributor, and
the case to ground it elimate the condensor, it would be open not
shorted.

Dean

-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Gillam
To: mg-tabc@egroups.com
Date: Monday, May 01, 2000 7:50 PM
Subject: [mg-tabc] Sparkplugs - Again

>All you mechanics out there, I need some help. please.
>
>I'm in the final stages of a restoration - the car is together for the most
>part and I've driven it around the neighborhood, terrorizing dogs, cats and
>people that accidentally stray into my path (I stay WAY to the right -
>smile). The engine was resleeved back to standard, new pistons, rings,
>valves and valve guides installed (compression for each cylinder runs
>130 -135 psi) and the carburetors rebuilt. But, since I did the
>assembly/reassembly myself there's a good possibility that I've goofed
>somewhere since the engine misses no matter what I do to the carburetors

and

>I've noticed a lot of black carbon buildup on the plugs.
>
>Recently there was a thread concerning the sparkplugs the *Listers* are
>using in their cars and I'm wondering, if it isn't something I've done

wrong

>in the assembly, if changing my plugs could help. I'm using NGK B6H S

plugs

>and wonder if there is a hotter set that might burn a little cleaner and
>possibly help the engine run smoother?
>
>I'm about at wits end - any suggestions will be appreciated (except using a
>bigger hammer :^)
>
>Gene
>
>
>
>
>
>

[David Edgar]

Gene-
Glad the problem is getting corrected. If the carb is not reseating I
assume you mean the piston does not come all the way down. Most likely
the needle is not centered in jet and is rubbing and there by hanging up.
Then again you said the carb were rebuilt long ago so maybe it is cobwebs.
If you have a SU tool kit you take the needle out and put in the centering
tool and the jets are then centered with the piston and needle. The tool
kits are available from many sources including Moss or problably even
cheaper from a local foreign auto parts supply.

Dave Edgar, TC 5108

On Tue, 2 May 2000, Gene Gillam wrote:

> Took your advice and started from scratch with the carburetors. I did have
> a float problem, minor adjustment there, but it seems the jet in the rear
> carburetor doesn't want to reseat itself after it's been moved and sticks
> open if the choke is operated. I'll have to disassemble it to fix it
> correctly but by making sure it was seated I was able to adjust out the miss
> and get the idle slowed way down - plus it now revs very smoothly. The
> timing was off a bit also and adjusting that also helped (it's amazing how
> things get misadjusted, isn't it). I did replace the plugs and there's
> still a bit of black fluid on them (these were Champion L7's) but it smells
> like gas and not oil. I need to run out this tank and put in some fresh -
> this has Stabile and a lead additive in it that could be causing me so
> problems - as well as a bit of what looks like rust (water in the tank?). I
> did notice a light gray smoke coming from the tailpipe now at idle - maybe
> this will settle out after the rings have set in?
>
> Anyway, it's a hundred times better now - and if I get that jet fixed - will
> even be better than that.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Gene
>
>

[Gene Gillam]

David,

It's not the piston that's not reseating, it's the jet itself. When you use
the choke, the jet doesn't reseat all the way back up. I took it apart this
afternoon and the small fiber jet seals are binding on the jet and not
letting it slide up freely. I tried polishing the jet and it's a little
better - but still sticks. I guess I'll just have to use the choke
sparingly - or, after the car is started, jump out and reseat it by hand -
or buy a monster spring to use to reseat it.

Gene