Re: [mg-tabc] Reluctant knock-offs

[David Irwin]

Dear all,

Many thanks to all for the email advice. To answer a few questions:

1) I am definately banging in the direction of the arrow.

2) I will try some loosening oil and a bit of time.

3) I will even try tightening, before loosening.

4) I live in Horley, Surrey, UK.

A beer first may help my aim and dull my sensitivity! The reason why
I ask is that as I hit the knock-off I am concious of the energy
being tramsmitted into the axle and the other finer points of my
pride and joy. Anyway, I have not seen it done before, and since
reading all the replies I am more confident now of using reasonable
force.

Another point - I have seen advertised a wooden wrench (for want of a
better description) about a yard long that locates over the knock-off
on which I could apply a steady force. Are these of merit?

Thanks again. I am already well up on the day.

DAI
TC6132

[Walter Prechsl]

hi david,

i love that wrench, it is much more tender to the axles as the hide/copper
hammer!
try it, you will see --

regards
walter

> Another point - I have seen advertised a wooden wrench (for want of a
> better description) about a yard long that locates over the knock-off
> on which I could apply a steady force. Are these of merit?
>

[CFritz7001@aol.com]

Dai,
Once you get the KOs off, you may well be confronted with wheels that
don't want to come off. Once again, penetrating/"loosening" oil, time and
persistence will see you through. When they finally yield, clean the splines
and threads thoroughly with a wire brush, and on re-assembly, use
"anti-seize" compound sparingly, but everywhere metal touches metal on hubs,
wheels, and KOs. It's a B____ to be confronted with a flat tire and a
reluctant wheel on a dark, rainy nioght, miles from home. I've been there,
and I don't ever want to go there again!
As for force you use, unless you're a real Sampson, you won't be able to
exert as much force as is imparted by hitting what we call here in the USA
"potholes" About the worst you can do with a wheel hammer is one or more of
the following:
1) Deform /damage the KO (Will happen anyway over time)
2) Hitting one or more spokes (see #1 above)
3) Hitting a fender (wing) (see #1 above)
4) Missing the KO, and hitting yourself, usually in the knee or shin (see #1
above)

I think that the jury is still out on the plywood wrenches ("spanners").
They'd probably work OK on KOs & wheels that fit together well, and have been
treated with antizeize compound, but I'm old fashioned anmd still prefer the
traditional hammer, which is what the makers intended to be used, and
provided strength to withstand. I've never lost a wheel underway, and don't
relish even the thought of that, but I can't help but wonder if the
"wrenches" give enough tightness of KOs to avoid such exciting events.
Regards,
Carl Fritz

[David Edgar]

Once you have the wheels off and applied the anti-seize don't be afraid to
knock those ears back home when putting the wheels back on. Upon
finishing my resoration I was hesitant to hit that beautiful chrome too
hard so went easy. After all the reverse threading per side should make
the KO's tighten, right? Wrong. The rotation may want to tighten the
KO's naturally but the steering, pot holes, and other vibration will
loosen the KO's. I ended a 400 mile drive to Sequoia National Park up so
winding roads on one of my early adventures and when I stopped I checked
the wheels I found they were loose. Not in danger of coming off but
loose. I have never felt bad about hitting that chrome again. Just use
the proper soft faced mallet.

Dave Edgar, TC 5108

On Fri, 28 Apr 2000 CFritz7001@aol.com wrote:

> Dai,
> Once you get the KOs off, you may well be confronted with wheels that
> don't want to come off. Once again, penetrating/"loosening" oil, time and
> persistence will see you through. When they finally yield, clean the splines
> and threads thoroughly with a wire brush, and on re-assembly, use
> "anti-seize" compound sparingly, but everywhere metal touches metal on hubs,
> wheels, and KOs. It's a B____ to be confronted with a flat tire and a
> reluctant wheel on a dark, rainy nioght, miles from home. I've been there,
> and I don't ever want to go there again!
> As for force you use, unless you're a real Sampson, you won't be able to
> exert as much force as is imparted by hitting what we call here in the USA
> "potholes" About the worst you can do with a wheel hammer is one or more of
> the following:
> 1) Deform /damage the KO (Will happen anyway over time)
> 2) Hitting one or more spokes (see #1 above)
> 3) Hitting a fender (wing) (see #1 above)
> 4) Missing the KO, and hitting yourself, usually in the knee or shin (see #1
> above)
>
> I think that the jury is still out on the plywood wrenches ("spanners").
> They'd probably work OK on KOs & wheels that fit together well, and have been
> treated with antizeize compound, but I'm old fashioned anmd still prefer the
> traditional hammer, which is what the makers intended to be used, and
> provided strength to withstand. I've never lost a wheel underway, and don't
> relish even the thought of that, but I can't help but wonder if the
> "wrenches" give enough tightness of KOs to avoid such exciting events.
> Regards,
> Carl Fritz
>
>
>
>

[John Patterson]

Amen Carl- Been there done that. Have deformed spokes, fender and knee cap
in that order with rusted on wheels and knockoffs. Now everything including
most of the nuts and bolts also get thin coats of anti-seize. Makes working
on our "jewels" a lot easier

----- Original Message -----
From:
To: ;
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2000 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: [mg-tabc] Reluctant knock-offs


> Dai,
> Once you get the KOs off, you may well be confronted with wheels that
> don't want to come off. Once again, penetrating/"loosening" oil, time and
> persistence will see you through. When they finally yield, clean the
splines
> and threads thoroughly with a wire brush, and on re-assembly, use
> "anti-seize" compound sparingly, but everywhere metal touches metal on
hubs,
> wheels, and KOs. It's a B____ to be confronted with a flat tire and a
> reluctant wheel on a dark, rainy nioght, miles from home. I've been
there,
> and I don't ever want to go there again!
> As for force you use, unless you're a real Sampson, you won't be able
to
> exert as much force as is imparted by hitting what we call here in the USA
> "potholes" About the worst you can do with a wheel hammer is one or more
of
> the following:
> 1) Deform /damage the KO (Will happen anyway over time)
> 2) Hitting one or more spokes (see #1 above)
> 3) Hitting a fender (wing) (see #1 above)
> 4) Missing the KO, and hitting yourself, usually in the knee or shin (see
#1
> above)
>
> I think that the jury is still out on the plywood wrenches
("spanners").
> They'd probably work OK on KOs & wheels that fit together well, and have
been
> treated with antizeize compound, but I'm old fashioned anmd still prefer
the
> traditional hammer, which is what the makers intended to be used, and
> provided strength to withstand. I've never lost a wheel underway, and
don't
> relish even the thought of that, but I can't help but wonder if the
> "wrenches" give enough tightness of KOs to avoid such exciting events.
> Regards,
> Carl Fritz
>
>
>

[David Irwin]

Dear all,

I wish to express my thanks for the 40 or so emails I have received
regarding my quandary of the reluctant knock-offs. All advise was
welcome and I look forward to exercising this expertise at my next
opportunity.

DAI
TC6132

[MDandGI@webtv.net]

David, I have one last suggestion that worked for me although some of
our colleagues on this sight will frown on the idea. I had two rear
K/Off's that would not budge despite hours of frustration. In a
desperate move I heated them up a couple of times with a small flame
torch let them cool down and on the third attempt it worked. After that
it was lots of thin grease every time I removed a wire wheel.

Regards Geoff