Re: rear wheel bearings

[Viv James TraX Interconnect (Pty.) Ltd]

Having just spent Saturday fitting 2 of Roger Furneaux special
Morse tapered 1/2 shafts along with new bearings, and then having
read Joe Potter's letter, the following may be of help.

1. Make or buy the right tool to undo the large castellated
nuts that hold on the bearings. Don't use a chisel!! I made on from
a piece of tool steel and some square tube.

2. Use the multiple balled bearings (M208). I just changed
over to these and they look much more substantial. The 8 ball jobs
are used in machinery which probably does not have the side
thrust. We have them in stock here in our factory for our NC drilling
machines and last time I did the job I did not know about the
tougher ones so I used them.

3. Remember that play in the rear wheels in not always from
shot bearings. More often than not, it's from worn carriers and
hub/1/2shaft splines.

4. Read Mike Sherrell's notes on making sure that the hub
can clamp the bearing properly into the carrier. If not, machine the
hub or use spacer shims to achieve this.

5. Having got the correct dimension, don't mess it up with a
gasket. Just use silicone (to hell with originality here!).

6. Fix half shaft play - new hubs and shafts or spline inserts
or whatever is needed. Play here means play in the rear wheel.
There is no short cut.

7 Or do what I just did and get a couple of Roger's "Mad
Metrics" Morse tapered masterpieces. I got my own hubs
machined to fit his taper and with a gruntus nut torqued up to 100 ft
lbs pulling the whole thing together my rear wheels are tighter than
new!

8. I guess the rot has set in now and I will come in for some
heavy flak from my purist friends but at least Roger's shafts were
made in UK and not in Japan or Taiwan! All I need now is the
steering!

Viv James in sunny hot Cape Town

[colinw@mweb.co.za]

GENTS

I OBTAINED A DOUBLE ROW BALL BEARING SNR4208, I HAD TO MACHINE OUT 5MM TO
CATER FOR THE EXTRA WIDTH.
THERE WAS STILL PLENTY OF THREAD TO ACCOMODATE THE WASHER AND NUT.
THIS SOLVED ALL MY PLAY IN THE HUB.

COLIN WILLIAMS

CAPE TOWN
-----Original Message-----
From: Viv James TraX Interconnect (Pty.) Ltd
To: mg-tabc@egroups.com
Date: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 10:29 AM
Subject: [mg-tabc] Rear wheel bearings

>Having just spent Saturday fitting 2 of Roger Furneaux special
>Morse tapered 1/2 shafts along with new bearings, and then having
>read Joe Potter's letter, the following may be of help.
>
>1. Make or buy the right tool to undo the large castellated
>nuts that hold on the bearings. Don't use a chisel!! I made on from
>a piece of tool steel and some square tube.
>
>2. Use the multiple balled bearings (M208). I just changed
>over to these and they look much more substantial. The 8 ball jobs
>are used in machinery which probably does not have the side
>thrust. We have them in stock here in our factory for our NC drilling
>machines and last time I did the job I did not know about the
>tougher ones so I used them.
>
>3. Remember that play in the rear wheels in not always from
>shot bearings. More often than not, it's from worn carriers and
>hub/1/2shaft splines.
>
>4. Read Mike Sherrell's notes on making sure that the hub
>can clamp the bearing properly into the carrier. If not, machine the
>hub or use spacer shims to achieve this.
>
>5. Having got the correct dimension, don't mess it up with a
>gasket. Just use silicone (to hell with originality here!).
>
>6. Fix half shaft play - new hubs and shafts or spline inserts
>or whatever is needed. Play here means play in the rear wheel.
>There is no short cut.
>
>7 Or do what I just did and get a couple of Roger's "Mad
>Metrics" Morse tapered masterpieces. I got my own hubs
>machined to fit his taper and with a gruntus nut torqued up to 100 ft
>lbs pulling the whole thing together my rear wheels are tighter than
>new!
>
>8. I guess the rot has set in now and I will come in for some
>heavy flak from my purist friends but at least Roger's shafts were
>made in UK and not in Japan or Taiwan! All I need now is the
>steering!
>
>Viv James in sunny hot Cape Town
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>eGroups.com Home: http://www.egroups.com/group/mg-tabc/
>http://www.egroups.com - Simplifying group communications
>
>

[The Vernon Family]

Hello out there, following the discussion on tightening wheel bearings, I wonder if anyone can tell me why my rear wheel assembly can rock vertically? The bearings are relatively new as are the seals all held together with new nuts tightened against the bearings. Clem

[Frank O_ The Mountain]

In a message dated 9/23/00 8:12:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
vernons@ibex.co.za writes:

>

Clem, sounds like your bearing carrier is worn out or your hub is not
pressing on your bearing outer race, see p. 107 of TC's Forever.
Terry

[JTPAKI@aol.com]

If the previous bearings got hot from failure the heat could possibly distort
the hub??

In a message dated 9/23/00 8:12:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
vernons@ibex.co.za writes:

>


Joe Potter
Eugene, Oregon USA
74 MG BGT V8
48 MG TC 7075
37 MG VA 0798S
39 MG WA 0482

[Dwyer]

Clem

If your rear wheel can rock in any direction, either the wheel is loose
on the splined hub or the splined hub is moving on the end of the
halfshaft.

The wheel bearing carries the loads which are at right angles to the
axle, like the weight of the car, and locates the rotating assembly to
the car. The halfshaft (via its 30 inches or so of leverage ending at
the diff) provides the force that stops the wheel waggling due to side
loads.

Regards

Dave Dwyer
Sydney, Australia

[Roger Furneaux]

> following the discussion on tightening wheel bearings, I wonder if anyone
>can tell me why my rear wheel assembly can rock vertically? The bearings are
>relatively new as are the seals all held together with new nuts tightened
>against the bearings.
> Clem >>
>
>Clem, sounds like your bearing carrier is worn out or your hub is not
>pressing on your bearing outer race, see p. 107 of TC's Forever.
>Terry
>

Or that the brg. is rocking on the axle casing. It must be a tight fit, and
if the carrier/brg slides off the axle when the nut is removed, even a hex
nut done up to 150lbs/ft is not going to stop it moving. building up the
journal is the only solution, 'cos it will be worn oval and I don't think a
Speedisleeve would do the job.

Roger

[joecurto@aol.com]

Assuming that there is nothing wrong with the bearings, I would assume that
the diameter of the road wheel would play a large part in acting as a lever.

Joe Curto

[RonMGTC@aol.com]

Gentlemen (and Lady):
Any suggestions as to the best bearings to use?

Thanks,

Ron, who is hoping, against all odds, to actually get my car on the road
after 8 years of jackstands.

[Peter Roberts]

Hi Ron!

I am in the midst of a rear wheel bearing/seal conversion. This is the
conversion available through Bob Grunau. It involves replacing the standard
bearings with sealed bearings. It also provides a modern lip seal to
replace the brass oil slinger bushings. The combination eliminates bearing
grease oozing through the hub seal and fouling the brakes....and
differential oil creeping past the oil slinger and bleeding down the spokes
of the rear wheels.

While I am still in the midst of the conversion, I must say it certainly
makes sense after too many years replacing the hub seals and replacing the
brake linings....and endlessly scrubbing the rear spokes.

OTOH, if you are absolutely committed to Originality and prepared for a very
frustrating time a few hundred miles down the road, give me your snail mail
and I will ship the old perfectly servicable wheel bearings to you for
postage. And for another $25 I will send the Ford Bronco CV socket that
perfectly fits your original hub nuts (Bob's conversion includes a new type
nut that fits a conventional socket)!

Let me close with a couple of thoughts about all this. First, the
conversion does replace the brass oil slinger function with a lip seal.
However, I think the brass bushings are still needed. They provide a good
platform to stablise the half shaft in the axle tube at the point is
receives the most road shock impact. Fitting the lip seal does require that
you force the bushing a bit futher into the tube, but the change is
negligable.

Second, you will need a pipe about 4' long to slide over the half shaft to
force the Speedi Sleeves down to cover the exposed splines at the
hub...where the new lip seal will ride. If you do not have said pipe in the
proper length and dimension...consider acquiring a copper pipe with a 1 1/4"
ID. This will neatly fit to the Speedi Sleeve Driver supplied with the kit
and the combination will nicely drive the Sleeve down the shaft. And when
you are done, fit the copper pipe in place of the old exhaust pipe for a
cheap (
> Gentlemen (and Lady):
> Any suggestions as to the best bearings to use?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ron, who is hoping, against all odds, to actually get my car on the road
> after 8 years of jackstands.
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [/quote]