Re: Fuel Tank

[Skip Burns]

I've removed Abbie's fuel tank in preparation for cleaning and sealing.
It's been thirty years since I last did this and memory is fading
fast. I assume that I'll apply a cleaner, then etcher, then sealer.
Flush the tank with water first? I can see some stuff in the bottom
below the tank inlet, but the baffles prevent me from seeing any more
of the bottom. Is there a technique for flushing that will insure a
good hosing will flush everything out. I e comments from anyone with
experience doing this before I pull out my dingus and step on it with
golf shoes. Cheers and Merry Christmas, Skip (TB 0304)

[MG1948@aol.com]

Best stuff I've found is an aircraft sealer "Randolph Products Sloshing
Sealer #802"

No need to do anything but wash out, unless an old sealer has been used
before.

Used it on 4 tanks to date with excellent results.

Phil

[Greaves, Tammy]

RE: [mg-tabc] Fuel Tank
Skip,
As I had asked this question on this list a couple months ago and I am just getting ready to do my tank I will let you know what my thoughts are on all this. While I know of some people that have been happy with applying a sloshing compound I have talked to many more people that have not had good results. Some people seem to get good results for a couple years then the coating starts to peel. I believe the main reason for these poor results is that prior to sloshing people are not able to get 100 per cent of the rust out of the tank.
When I posed this question originally someone suggested I check an advertiser's list on one of the MG sites (I do not remember which MG site it was) In any case the business listed was Moyer's Fuel Tank RENU - South Greensburg PA. I have sent a couple E-mails to them and they have sent my a sample of what they apply.
At the risk of sounding like a commercial for them ... They would (I can hear the cries now!) cut small holes in the front of the tank out so they can sandblast the whole inside of the tank and baffles (This is the only way you are going to guarantee all the rust gets removed). They then weld the front back up. They then apply the RENU inside and bake it on at 375 degrees. The outside is coated in a finish that, while it can be painted, is not as smooth as a regular primer. Sandra Moyer, who is familiar with the MGTC, suggested that they would finish the bottom, front and sides of the tank and prime the sides showing (top and rear).
Web site for Moyer's - www.gas-tank.com. E-Mail slmoyer@westol.com 1-800-328-9550.
There are other RENU distributors in the US and Canada - RENU itself also has a site on the Web.
Rob (excuse the disclaimer) Greaves
Ottawa
-----Original Message-----
From: Skip Burns
Is there a technique for flushing that will insure a
good hosing will flush everything out...

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[frank drakman]

I was the one who had the tank sent out to Moyers to get the inside properly
blasted then the interior and exterior coated. As I have said on the list a
couple times I was pleased with the assistance that Mrs. MOYER (Laura Lee I
think). They would send you a sample of what the inside and outside coating
will look like. The tank was cut into from the front and sandblasted then
was welded back up. Their exterior coating was only put on the front, sides
and bottom of the tank (probably not smooth enough to top coat and get the
results one would expect) The top and rear of the tank was primed. I have
since painted the tank and it looks great to me. I trust their process much
more than if I was to try to clean and "slosh" the tank myself.
www.gas-tank.com

Rob Greaves
Ottawa, Ontario