Dreaded drip part 2

[Bill Traill]

Thanks to everyone who responded with suggestions and questions! I forgot to mention the first time I dropped the sump last summer to replace the sump/bearing cap cork gasket, I tried the idea of drilling a hole in the rear main bearing cap to vent the drain pipe. There was no change in the leak characteristics. Also, I made a fixture to hold the cap cork gasket in place overnight so there would be no chance of it popping out during sump fitting. Some members of our list have asked what I finally did. I followed the instructions in Andrew Bradley's article from our T-ABC archives and installed the Chevy small block seal conversion. No leaks! I did not line bore the block. I used Mike Goodmans suggestion of fixturing the cap and slinger on a lathe. Mike does this in his own shop in Van Nuys, Calif. The crank was modified by the same shop that installed the "diesel engine" liners in 1968; however they are now exclusively a grinding shop machining pump shafts 18" x 16 ft long! The owners are still the old hot rodders of the 1950's and are a wealth of advice. They cut off some of the scroll as they found that welding and nitriding don't mix. Here is photographic evidence: http://www.clovermachine.com/mg/oilseal.jpg Bill Traill DCO: TC 5221