Gearshift lever

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David and Joyce Edgar
Posts: 76
Joined: Tue Jul 04, 2000 6:13 pm

Gearshift lever

Post by David and Joyce Edgar » Sat Feb 03, 2001 9:44 am

Before I ask the gearshift lever question I want to thank everyone for their input on the leafspring lube question I posed earlier. The chain lube sounds easiest and the Mylar interesting. Over the last 30 years I have put up with my gearshift lever rotating in the socket. Hence the MG logo on my knob ends up facing every which way but a quick twist brings it back into line if I want. Never has bothered me enough to fix it but I am at a point in reassemby that I could fix it if I wanted to. The Moss catalog shows two pins that locate the lever to prevent it from twisting around. Mine are long gone. Previous owner evidently had the end of the aluminum cover break off (right where the pin holes are) and had it welded up again. I see where there the holes should be so could drill them out again. How are the pins held in? If tight like a roll pin, then how do you get them back out if needed? Do the pins extend out past the exterior of the housing so you can grab them and pull them out? David Edgar, TC 5108 La Mesa, California

Bob Grunau
Posts: 149
Joined: Wed Oct 29, 2003 10:26 am

Re: Gearshift lever

Post by Bob Grunau » Sun Feb 04, 2001 5:08 pm

Over the last 30 years I have put up with my gearshift lever rotating in the socket. Hence the MG logo on my knob ends up facing every which way but a quick twist brings it back into line if I want. Never has bothered me enough to fix it but I am at a point in reassemby that I could fix it if I wanted to. The Moss catalog shows two pins that locate the lever to prevent it from twisting around. Mine are long gone. Replace pins with two 1/4" NC bolts with ends ground down slightly to clear lever slot. Tap housing 1/4" NC and Loctite bolts in p[lace. Previous owner evidently had the end of the aluminum cover break off (right where the pin holes are) and had it welded up again. I see where there the holes should be so could drill them out again. How are the pins held in? Originally light press fit and ends peened over. I have successfully used tapped holes and 1/4" NC bolts. If tight like a roll pin, then how do you get them back out if needed? Taper wedge drift between gear lever and housing. Do the pins extend out past the exterior of the housing so you can grab them and pull them out? No, flush and peened over. But bolt heads protrude but this is no problem. Bob

avanparys@viperlink.net
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Dec 23, 2000 11:00 am

Re: Gearshift lever

Post by avanparys@viperlink.net » Mon Feb 05, 2001 10:20 am

--- In mg-tabc@y..., David and Joyce Edgar wrote:
> Before I ask the gearshift lever question I want to thank everyone > for their input on the leafspring lube question I posed earlier.
The
> chain lube sounds easiest and the Mylar interesting. > > Over the last 30 years I have put up with my gearshift lever
rotating
> in the socket. Hence the MG logo on my knob ends up facing every > which way but a quick twist brings it back into line if I want. > Never has bothered me enough to fix it but I am at a point in > reassemby that I could fix it if I wanted to. The Moss catalog
shows
> two pins that locate the lever to prevent it from twisting around. > Mine are long gone. Previous owner evidently had the end of the > aluminum cover break off (right where the pin holes are) and had it > welded up again. I see where there the holes should be so could > drill them out again. How are the pins held in? If tight like a > roll pin, then how do you get them back out if needed? Do the pins > extend out past the exterior of the housing so you can grab them
and
> pull them out? > > David Edgar, TC 5108 > La Mesa, California
Dave, Just finished removing and replacing the pins in mine (had the shift lever re-chromed). Pins were in tight. Like Bob says, the pins have a head which fits in a recess in the side of the housing and is peened over to hold in. Had to first drill out peening, then force out one side. Once that was out, the shift lever comes out and the other pin can be more easily be tapped out with a drift. Assembly is obviously easier. In your case, a careful session with a drill press to line up the holes should do it. Get the pins first, of course, for hole sizing to ensure a snug fit, counter drill for the heads, and you should be set. VR - Terry V.P. Charleston S.C.

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