nklr although the technology is only slightly older

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Marshall Paul
Posts: 6
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 3:24 am

choke cable jammed open

Post by Marshall Paul » Wed Dec 03, 2014 4:35 pm

I know this subject comes up periodically. Hope my experience is useful to someone.
A few nights back I got off work. 2300hrs. freezing weather and choke turned on but could not close it. Then I broke the lever. Had tools, went to work on pushing the cable back through housing, no luck. Cut it off, shortening the length by about six inches, twice, and finally was able to shut it.
Cable was frayed in several places.
Ordered a short replacement cable for a Harley Sportster, which apparantly had the same or similiar carb and zipped tied it to the frame. It has worked quite well. Am going to buy a brass fitting to replace the cheap-ass plastic one connecting to the carb. I figure I will have to cut matching threads on something from the local plumbing department, but can't see spending $75 on a custom fit version on the internet.
Cold, but dry in Texas.
Marshall

Martin Earl
Posts: 231
Joined: Wed Nov 26, 2003 10:00 pm

choke cable jammed open

Post by Martin Earl » Wed Dec 03, 2014 5:35 pm

I am not 100% certain, but I think the KLX300R choke is a direct replacement and is a conventional 'pull-at-the-carb' pull-knob.Perhaps someone else can verify or it may be in the FAQhttp://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html and if it IS a direct replacement and if it not listed in the FAQ as a direct replacement, perhaps someone who knows someone can update that tid-bit. I have in mind, that if mine ever breaks, that is the part I am going to replace the OEM choke re. the KLX300R part.Fred may even have it in stock.revmaaatin.
On Wed, Dec 3, 2014 at 3:35 PM, Marshall Paul abelard23@... [DSN_KLR650] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote: I know this subject comes up periodically. Hope my experience is useful to someone. A few nights back I got off work. 2300hrs. freezing weather and choke turned on but could not close it. Then I broke the lever. Had tools, went to work on pushing the cable back through housing, no luck. Cut it off, shortening the length by about six inches, twice, and finally was able to shut it. Cable was frayed in several places. Ordered a short replacement cable for a Harley Sportster, which apparantly had the same or similiar carb and zipped tied it to the frame. It has worked quite well. Am going to buy a brass fitting to replace the cheap-ass plastic one connecting to the carb. I figure I will have to cut matching threads on something from the local plumbing department, but can't see spending $75 on a custom fit version on the internet. Cold, but dry in Texas. Marshall

John Biccum
Posts: 542
Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 4:21 am

choke cable jammed open

Post by John Biccum » Wed Dec 03, 2014 8:18 pm

Someone makes a machined aluminum replacement for that plastic enrichener part.  They can be found on eBay.   From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: 12/ 3/ 2014 2:35 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] choke cable jammed open   I know this subject comes up periodically.  Hope my experience is useful to someone.   A few nights back I got off work. 2300hrs. freezing weather and choke turned on but could not close it.  Then I broke the lever.  Had tools, went to work on pushing the cable back through housing, no luck.  Cut it off, shortening the length by about six inches, twice, and finally was able to shut it.    Cable was frayed in several places.    Ordered a short replacement cable for a Harley Sportster, which apparantly had the same or similiar carb and zipped tied it to the frame.  It has worked quite well.  Am going to buy  a brass fitting to replace the cheap-ass plastic one connecting to the carb.  I figure I will have to cut matching threads on something from the local plumbing department, but can't see spending $75 on a custom fit version on the internet.   Cold, but dry in Texas.   Marshall    

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Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

choke cable jammed open

Post by Norm Keller » Thu Dec 04, 2014 1:50 pm

#ygrps-yiv-1959260791 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1959260791cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1959260791 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1959260791cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1959260791 .ygrps-yiv-1959260791plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1959260791 .ygrps-yiv-1959260791plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1959260791 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1959260791 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1959260791 .ygrps-yiv-1959260791plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1959260791 .ygrps-yiv-1959260791plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} FWIW, I just replace the plastic fitting with Arctic Cat 5507-025 for about $5.00. Keep one in stock and don't think about it at all.   I'm curious, just how big a problem is this for people? I mean, how many are broken?   I've replaced maybe 2 or 3 due to being broke by myself in all the years I've been doing KLR's. One the threads stripped off the "nut" which seemed like poor plastic- sort of chalky.   People have asked me about this, apparently under the impression that they are breaking on an almost daily basis on most bikes.  ;-)   If there was a system which was easier to remove and reinstall, then even then...   I'm a bit concerned about steel and other metal fittings because that may transfer the risk to damaging the threads in the carb.   Just curious, it being winter and all.

Norm Keller
Posts: 712
Joined: Thu Apr 01, 2004 7:48 am

nklr although the technology is only slightly older

Post by Norm Keller » Thu Dec 04, 2014 5:50 pm

#ygrps-yiv-1521675880 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1521675880cite {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;} #ygrps-yiv-1521675880 blockquote.ygrps-yiv-1521675880cite2 {margin-left:5px;margin-right:0px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:0px;border-left:1px solid #cccccc;margin-top:3px;padding-top:0px;} #ygrps-yiv-1521675880 .ygrps-yiv-1521675880plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1521675880 .ygrps-yiv-1521675880plain tt {font-family:monospace;font-size:100%;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;} #ygrps-yiv-1521675880 a img {border:0px;}#ygrps-yiv-1521675880 {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} #ygrps-yiv-1521675880 .ygrps-yiv-1521675880plain pre, #ygrps-yiv-1521675880 .ygrps-yiv-1521675880plain tt {font-family:Tahoma;font-size:12pt;} Just FWIW, there are maintenance issues affecting propane systems. Propane requires heat in order to vaporize which is provided by ambient air in small volume applications such as a BBQ or torch. An interesting experiment is to connect the BBQ to a small sized cylinder when ambient temperatures are lower, resulting sometimes in the cylinder becoming a ball of frost with the propane delivery stopping until the tank warms. In this case, the tank is the heat sink/heat source for the heat of vaporization. In the case of higher consumption devices such as engines, a vaporizer or liquid to liquid heat exchanger uses engine coolant in a chamber offering parallel snail shell passages or other arrangement to provide large contact surface.   If the engine coolant is restricted or stopped, the vaporizer/evaporator will freeze up and delivery will cease. A blown head gasket, for example, will often make for some interesting diagnosis for those not familiar with propane fueled vehicles. Under cold operating conditions, it may not be practical to provide sufficient heat to the vaporizer which is why northern lease fleets would often pull their propane vehicles in the winter.   Another aspect which may not be familiar is that of the ethyl mercaptan, which is combined with propane for its powerful stink, as a means of warning the presence of a leak. The mercaptan is in the form of an oil which usually builds up slowly in the system. Units which have been in long service and not had the system cleaned will often have a thick gooey, oil-almost-grease blocking up the vaporizer. This is a common problem with RV furnaces and the like.   Another issue regarding propane use is that an engine can profit from more spark advance when using the higher octane propane. Propane is also of lower heat content than gasoline which results in lower power output when an engine is running on propane. Typically, a conversion will recalibrate the spark advance curve to profit from the higher propane viscosity, winning back some of the power difference. If an engine is dual fuel, that is one which is switched back and forth between gasoline and propane, the propane running will suffer from noticeably lower power. The better dual fuel conversions include an automatic remapping of the spark advance for each fuel.   Some more recent applications use fuel injection to deliver the propane as a liquid rather than a propane carburetor which mixes vapor. Likely all this is way out of anyone's interest but something, regardless. ;-)       Mark Posted: I'm looming at buying a new Generator (RVing etc) That by a flip of a switch, you can go from Gasoline to Propane. There are already many Trucks, tractors, High-Lo's etc. running on Propane or Natural gas. Propane does NOT break down, as Gasoline, or CORN fuel does. AND With a small attachment you can GRILL BURGERS. LOL (TRUELY possible. lol )  On Thursday, December 4, 2014 2:25 PM, "'Norm Keller' normkel32@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
  There are diesel engines based on the KLR engine, various diesels installed into KLR as replacement but how about a steam powered KLR?   If there was someone in this area who was also interested, that would be a fun project. Wood fire the thing so refueling off road would be simple.   Another might be to convert to CO (carbon monoxide) fueling rather than gasoline. That was popular in some areas during WW1.   Maybe I should stop speculating and vacuum the carpets?  :-) Posted by: "Norm Keller" Reply via web post normkel32@...?subject=Re%3A%20NKLR%20although%20the%20technology%20is%20only%20slightly%20older DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com?subject=Re%3A%20NKLR%20although%20the%20technology%20is%20only%20slightly%20older Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (3) List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Members Map https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f1732283bb6f&msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023 Visit Your Group New Members 2 [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2Fl.yimg.com%2Fru%2Fstatic%2Fimages%2Fyg%2Fimg%2Femail%2Fnew_logo%2Flogo-groups-137x15.png&t=1571809992&sig=cjp81KC_TbQJ4nb_Aa2BoQ--~E[/img] Privacy DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe Terms of Use

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