drive chain adjustment procedure
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drive chain adjustment procedure
That's exactly the method I came up with. Except being the dandy that I am, I prefer to keep my boots clean. I grab a piece of paper towel, or something, to put between finger and chain and lift. As John said, not to worry if the chain gets a bit loose; too tight is the problem. 80k plus miles using this procedure with no side affects.
Bogdan
From: "John Biccum johnbiccum@... [DSN_KLR650]" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Reply-To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>, John Biccum
Date: Monday, September 15, 2014 4:01 PM
To: "DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Drive Chain Adjustment Procedure
Here is my method: With the unladed bike on the sidestand, find the lowest point of the chain run, the lowest part of the catenary arch formed by the lower run of the chain. Using the toe of your boot, lift the chain as far as it will go.
it should ALMOST touch the swingarm.
No tools, no measuring no hassle. Too tight and you will leak oil from the seal underneath the drive sprocket. This is too common, I've seen dealers adjust chain this tight. Too loose and the chain will (audibly) slap the swingarm. About an 1/8 of an inch gap is perfect but use your Eyeball Mk. 2 for the measurement. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 9/15/2014 5:07 PM
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Drive Chain Adjustment Procedure
The owner's manual says to adjust drive chain free play to 2.0-2.6" with the bike on it's side stand. The Clymer manual says 2.0-2.4" with the rear wheel off the ground. KLR650 FAQ says 2" but does not say if the wheel should be off the ground or not. It seems to me that that the wheel should be off the ground to eliminate many variables. How should I do it?
Thanks in advance, Gerry
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