steer stem r&r

[RobertWichert]

I had an oil leak that I believed was coming from the left side outer case, so I took it off to try and stop the leak. When I put it back together, I get no spark. I did disconnect the Alternator and pickup plugs during this work in order to work on the gasket surface on the bench rather than on the bike. The bike cranks, but a spare spark plug doesn't spark when touched to the head. The pickup coil resistance is 120 Ohms, which is good according to the manual. The exciter coil resistance is about the same, also good according to the manual. When checking voltage at the primary of the coil, it is zero with the key on and maybe half a volt when cranking. I would have thought it should be more than that with the key on, but I don't know what it is supposed to be. The coil primary resistance appears to be OK, but my meter doesn't go that low. It reads 0.4 Ohms and the spec is lower than that, but I think the meter just can't resolve that low. It is NOT open circuit. I do not know of any interlock which disables the spark without disabling cranking. If there is one, please let me know. The neutral wire is connected and works, as evidenced by the green neutral light and it won't crank if the neutral wire is pulled off. The kill switch is in the middle RUN position. Any ideas? I am about to take the side cover off again, darn it, and look for problems. The first thing I will replace when I do that is the pickup coil. Is the exciter coil part of the alternator? I'm thinking that may be the bad actor. That sounds like an expensive fix. Darn it. I probably broke a wire. Your thoughts are appreciated. -- Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 13:57:06 -0800 RobertWichert writes:

> I had an oil leak that I believed was coming from the left side outer

case, so I took it off to try and stop the leak. When I put it back together, I get no spark. BIG SNIP

> Your thoughts are appreciated. > > -- > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Robert, I'm wondering what is the year of the bike? Gen I and Gen II have different electrical systems. If I was going to try to figure it out in person I would take a hard look at the stuff you messed with related to the left cover. If the connections are all correct and tight when I had the cover off I would use an ohm meter to see if the wires were conducting electrickery. I would pay particular attention to the wires for the pick up coil. I would give a very good visual inspection of the wires and then also move them while watching the ohm meter to see if I could get any indication of a broken wire. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . ____________________________________________________________ How to Sleep Like a Rock Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52eecc28392cb4c2859b6st04vuc

[RobertWichert]

Does the sidestand safety switch prevent spark (but allow cranking) when in neutral?

On 2/2/2014 5:59 PM, tomatocity wrote:

Sidestand safety switch? On Sun, Feb 2, 2014 at 1:57 PM, RobertWichert wrote:   I had an oil leak that I believed was coming from the left side outer case, so I took it off to try and stop the leak. When I put it back together, I get no spark. I did disconnect the Alternator and pickup plugs during this work in order to work on the gasket surface on the bench rather than on the bike. The bike cranks, but a spare spark plug doesn't spark when touched to the head. The pickup coil resistance is 120 Ohms, which is good according to the manual. The exciter coil resistance is about the same, also good according to the manual. When checking voltage at the primary of the coil, it is zero with the key on and maybe half a volt when cranking. I would have thought it should be more than that with the key on, but I don't know what it is supposed to be. The coil primary resistance appears to be OK, but my meter doesn't go that low. It reads 0.4 Ohms and the spec is lower than that, but I think the meter just can't resolve that low. It is NOT open circuit. I do not know of any interlock which disables the spark without disabling cranking. If there is one, please let me know. The neutral wire is connected and works, as evidenced by the green neutral light and it won't crank if the neutral wire is pulled off. The kill switch is in the middle RUN position. Any ideas? I am about to take the side cover off again, darn it, and look for problems. The first thing I will replace when I do that is the pickup coil. Is the exciter coil part of the alternator? I'm thinking that may be the bad actor. That sounds like an expensive fix. Darn it. I probably broke a wire. Your thoughts are appreciated. -- Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== -- Robert P Wichert P.Eng. Inc. LEED AP, HERS II, CEA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068

[RobertWichert]

It's an '07 Gen I, Jeff.... Thanks for your help. I checked the resistance on the exciter and pickup. Both were within the limits in the manual. I haven't checked the alternator yet. I am curious if the coil primary voltage is supplied by the battery or the alternator. Thanks! Robert =============================================

On 2/2/2014 2:42 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 13:57:06 -0800 RobertWichert > writes: >> I had an oil leak that I believed was coming from the left side outer > case, so I took it off to try and stop the leak. When I put it back > together, I get no spark. > > BIG SNIP > >> Your thoughts are appreciated. >> >> -- >> Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C >> +1 916 966 9060 >> FAX +1 916 966 9068 > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Robert, > > I'm wondering what is the year of the bike? Gen I and Gen II have > different electrical systems. > > If I was going to try to figure it out in person I would take a hard look > at the stuff you messed with related to the left cover. If the > connections are all correct and tight when I had the cover off I would > use an ohm meter to see if the wires were conducting electrickery. I > would pay particular attention to the wires for the pick up coil. I > would give a very good visual inspection of the wires and then also move > them while watching the ohm meter to see if I could get any indication of > a broken wire. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > . > > ____________________________________________________________ > How to Sleep Like a Rock > Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52eecc28385c64c2859b5st04vuc > > -- Robert P Wichert P.Eng. Inc. LEED AP, HERS II, CEA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 20:37:25 -0800 RobertWichert writes:

> It's an '07 Gen I, Jeff.... > > Thanks for your help. > > I checked the resistance on the exciter and pickup. Both were > within > the limits in the manual. > > I haven't checked the alternator yet. > > I am curious if the coil primary voltage is supplied by the battery > or > the alternator. > > > Thanks! > > > > Robert

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Robert, Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need a battery. Gen II uses power from the battery. I wonder if something got stuck to the pickup or the pickup got moved. Maybe the bracket holding the pickup got bent? As for your question about the side stand switch. That is only part of the ignition system on a Gen I and has nothing to do with the starter. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ How to Sleep Like a Rock Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52ef20975b6b72097678bst04vuc

[RobertWichert]

Thanks, Jeff... Two good nuggets in your post. 1) If I broke one of the yellow stator wires, that could cause the problem, right? 2) I'll check the sidestand switch. Thanks! Robert ============================================================

On 2/2/2014 8:51 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 20:37:25 -0800 RobertWichert > writes: >> It's an '07 Gen I, Jeff.... >> >> Thanks for your help. >> >> I checked the resistance on the exciter and pickup. Both were >> within >> the limits in the manual. >> >> I haven't checked the alternator yet. >> >> I am curious if the coil primary voltage is supplied by the battery >> or >> the alternator. >> >> >> Thanks! >> >> >> >> Robert > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Robert, > > Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need a > battery. Gen II uses power from the battery. > > I wonder if something got stuck to the pickup or the pickup got moved. > Maybe the bracket holding the pickup got bent? > > As for your question about the side stand switch. That is only part of > the ignition system on a Gen I and has nothing to do with the starter. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > . > . > . > > ____________________________________________________________ > How to Sleep Like a Rock > Obey this one natural trick to fall asleep and stay asleep all night. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52ef20975c4b920971b87st01vuc > > -- Robert P Wichert P.Eng. Inc. LEED AP, HERS II, CEA +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 21:18:01 -0800 RobertWichert writes:

> Thanks, Jeff... > > Two good nuggets in your post. > > 1) If I broke one of the yellow stator wires, that could cause > the > problem, right? > > 2) I'll check the sidestand switch. > > Thanks! > > > Robert

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Robert, The yellow stator wires have nothing to do with the ignition system. You can run a Gen I KLR with no battery and the regulator/rectifier unplugged. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ Do THIS before eating carbs (every time) 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52efa82cd05f4282c5ef8st01vuc

[RobertWichert]

Thanks Jeff, but when you said: "Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need a battery." I figured the stator was the yellow wires. If not, which wires are the stator? Thanks! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 2/3/2014 6:30 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Sun, 02 Feb 2014 21:18:01 -0800 RobertWichert > writes: >> Thanks, Jeff... >> >> Two good nuggets in your post. >> >> 1) If I broke one of the yellow stator wires, that could cause >> the >> problem, right? >> >> 2) I'll check the sidestand switch. >> >> Thanks! >> >> >> Robert > <><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><> > > Robert, > > The yellow stator wires have nothing to do with the ignition system. > You can run a Gen I KLR with no battery and the regulator/rectifier > unplugged. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > . > . > . > > ____________________________________________________________ > Do THIS before eating carbs (every time) > 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52efa82ca03bb282c5ef7st01vuc > > >

[Jeff Saline]

On Mon, 03 Feb 2014 08:03:48 -0800 RobertWichert writes:

> Thanks Jeff, but when you said: > > "Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need > a > battery." > > I figured the stator was the yellow wires. If not, which wires are > the stator? > > > Thanks! > > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Robert, The KLR stator has two parts. One is for charging and that is the three yellow wires. The other is for the ignition system and is the exciter and that is two wires, white and red. I think they change color shortly after exiting the stator/cover with white connecting to black/white and red remains connected to red. You should be able to test the wires for continuity by testing the white to the red. While watching the meter move the wires and see if the reading changes. If you get an open something is wrong. You should also be able to do the same kind of test with the pickup wires which are black and black/yellow. An additional test you can do is to test each lead to ground/engine case. If you get a reading the wire is shorted to ground and that is a problem. If you can't find a short in the wire it indicates the exciter or pickup is bad depending on which wires you are testing. You can unsolder the wires at the component and check again. Replacing wires is an option. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . ____________________________________________________________ Do THIS before eating carbs (every time) 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52eff1e292dcd71e275c5st03vuc

[Stu Mitchell]

Thanks Jeff –

 

That was clear enough for me to follow also…

 

I guess I trip up conceptually of the charging circuit crossing over into ignition circuit.  I “get it” intellectually, but then it seems like magic also.

 

But, maybe I shouldn’t overcomplicate things and just go get an analog multimeter – and RTFM…. And do as folks say do….

[i]  [/i]

[i]Off to the big box stores[/i]

[i]  [/i]

[i]Stu[/i]

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]Jeff Saline [b]Sent:[/b] Monday, February 03, 2014 2:45 PM [b]To:[/b] robert@... [b]Cc:[/b] DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Long sad story

 

 

On Mon, 03 Feb 2014 08:03:48 -0800 RobertWichert writes:

> Thanks Jeff, but when you said: > > "Gen I ignition system is powered from the stator and doesn't need > a > battery." > > I figured the stator was the yellow wires. If not, which wires are > the stator? > > > Thanks! > > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Robert, The KLR stator has two parts. One is for charging and that is the three yellow wires. The other is for the ignition system and is the exciter and that is two wires, white and red. I think they change color shortly after exiting the stator/cover with white connecting to black/white and red remains connected to red. You should be able to test the wires for continuity by testing the white to the red. While watching the meter move the wires and see if the reading changes. If you get an open something is wrong. You should also be able to do the same kind of test with the pickup wires which are black and black/yellow. An additional test you can do is to test each lead to ground/engine case. If you get a reading the wire is shorted to ground and that is a problem. If you can't find a short in the wire it indicates the exciter or pickup is bad depending on which wires you are testing. You can unsolder the wires at the component and check again. Replacing wires is an option. Best, Jeff Saline The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . . . __________________________________________________________ Do THIS before eating carbs (every time) 1 EASY tip to increase fat-burning, lower blood sugar & decrease fat storage http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/52eff1e292dcd71e275c5st03vuc

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