klr 650 footpegs

[Stu Mitchell]

Hey, The nefarious bolt(s) in question are located under the southern-most portion of the gas tank. Directly above the connection between the carb and the airbox. There is a bolt on each side. You ll see the frame come together there. The cap head bolts are recessed, but make sure you see a cap head in there. Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." Mark Twain From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Paul Whatley Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 11:18 AM To: Martin Earl; Stu Mitchell Cc: itsdfoot@...; DSN KLR650 Subject: [Bulk] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant I could probably find this in the FAQ, but for the sake of time, I guess I will ask anyway and beg forgiveness later. Where are the sub-frame bolts on a Gen I and what is the easiest way to check them? Paul From: Martin Earl To: Stu Mitchell Cc: itsdfoot@...; DSN KLR650 dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 11:42 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant HI Stu. I have followed your adventure from the first post, and the only way it could be more miserable is if you were doing it outside, 40F under a streetlight. Oh, do I feel your pain. from that extraction. NOTE: Following comments are especially for new readers and new owners, and for those who have delayed doing some upgrades. IRT to the PO shearing the bolt, Kawi-engineers...and other comments from your rant/journey. The best way to avoid much (KLR650) pain is to read the FAQ.s and then read them again, and then DO as the FAQ suggests. (yeah, I see the bolts were sheared when you got the bike...just saying!) It is to bad the previous owner did not follow the FAQ and its suggestions. With the FAQ, there are numerous 'suggestions' to fix dynamically weak points of the KLR; sadly it is not just a Kawi problem. Suzi and BMVu have there share of problems, not to mention HONDA! The engineers did not 'finish' the bike KLR650 to be an adventure bike, rather a Walter Mitty adventure bike. Walter: You got dreams, this motorbike is (only) the entry point. If you want to campaign this bike, certain systems must be hardened or you/me/us will be replacing the parts and THEN hardening the weak parts The do-hickey comes to mind; lever protectors and proper foot pegs (w/ 8.8 bolts) also come to mind. How about a magnetic drain plug; and metal skid pan because I ride where there are ROCKS-A lot. Most people don't need a metal skid plate. shrug. Decide how much you want to risk...I have shark fins to protect the rear brake on two bikes...probably over kill. grin. Brake billet, and rear master cylinder protector...I bought, maybe not necessary. shrug. That said, there is a lot of 'farkle' out there for sale that probably is not necessary...not that I bought any of it. cough. If you want to know what is necessary, look at some USMC scout bike photo's and act accordingly. smile. Most pertinent advice for adding farkle: ride the bike and see what needs to improve. I needed barbacks and a seat upgrade. Others get along just fine without either. shrug. Such as: If you ride when it is cold, and your hands get cold, upgrade to heated grips; that sort of thing. IRT to the sub frame bolts: I replaced the sub frame bolts in all three of my KLR650's almost immediately with the upgrade kit; nary a one was any problem thereafter. Remember, (any) upgrades are NOT a 100% cure-all, but a significant preventative measure. 2006: I did $30K bodily damage to my body while napping in a rut and the deputy-sheriff was disappointed that the bike had no damage. sigh. The upgrades protected everything... ER doc said I was the 'best dressed ER motorcycle customer ever'. = good riding gear is not a guarantee of complete protection, Hardening the KLR, =IMHO: I DO NOT ride my KLR650 as a MX bike but at the limits of my own ability AND the design limits of the improved/hardened KLR. I rarely 'fly' the bike; that said, I have never broken off any sub frame bolts. However, I replace foot peg bolts with some regularity. shrug. That comes from standing on the pegs a lot! My present 'favorite' KLR was bought at 20K smiles, I logged 37K more on it and had the upgraded sub frame bolts out last week while installing the 685 kit. Other than surface corrosion on the lower two bolts, not the slightest indication of thread compression or shearing on any if the four bolts . ymmv. A side note from the FAQ: If any of you new owners have not moved your license plate up, do so; it is not 'if' it will disappear, but when...and that will (most likely) be the first time you fully compress the rear shock. I bend the top 1.5 inch of the plate at about 30degrees to stuff it up under the inner fender and use the lic-plate bottom holes to mount the plate. revmaaatin. 38 miles on Thursday; 70 miles on Friday doing the 685 break-in. big "Black Hills' smiles all around. 118 farkle/maint days till full time riding season. sigh.

On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Stu Mitchell wrote: Hey, Here is where I got my guidance http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205808 and here is where I got the kit http://www.eaglemike.com/main.sc Home of the Doo-Hickey and other handy bits and experience . I ll try to help answer any questions if you run into any issues. But, honestly, if you don t have to go though getting a broken bolt/extractor drilled out, it is not a bad project at all. Be very careful about metal filings from the drill. I used my automotive dropped nut and bolt getter magnet on a stick to help control and collect the filings. But you should still tape , wrap, and surgically cover the bike while drilling. I even flipped duct tape over so I had the sticky side up to help catch filings like fly-paper. The best cutting oil I found was in the plumbing department at Homeless Despots Good luck - good choice for good peace of mind Editorial rant - Rhetorical: So why in the world did Kawasaki use bolts/designs that any freshman engineer in a community college would see are under-specced? That is what most of our upgrades are about - whether it s the Doo-Hickey or the sub-frame bolts, to foot peg bolts or even the available wattage for running accessories - like lights, maybe GPS not even getting to heated accoutrements or radios. Sure, I enjoy wrenching, but I like to be able to pick my battles. But the other side is, I do believe that when all these things are done there aren t any bikes are substantially better on the road or the trail regardless of cost. Some may do one or the other a little better, but not do all of them as well all of the time (borrowed from PT Barnum) as a KLR does. Geez, I sound like an ad . So, if everything (life) comes together then I m hoping to take my ol gal out for some real rides and that s when all of this will have been worth it. Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." Mark Twain From: itsdfoot@... [mailto:itsdfoot@...] Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 2:52 PM To: cloudnine233@... Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant Being a new KLR owner , I wish you did take some pictures so that we newbies would know we're to look, I wish to do this replacement for piece of mind, while the weather is freezing.but Don,t know where to start. Are there any other upgrades one should know about. Thanks --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Martin Earl]

Stu and Paul, There are FOUR subframe bolts. Stu correctly identifies the upper; you should replace the lower ones as well, located immediately forward of the rear foot pegs. An easy way to tell if they are replace is that many of these bolts are 'blue' and marked 8.8 on the socket head. The ones you buy from Fasenal will be black. revmaaatin.

On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 9:44 AM, Stu Mitchell wrote: > Hey, > > > > The nefarious bolt(s) in question are located under the southern-most > portion of the gas tank. Directly above the connection between the carb > and the airbox. > > > > There is a bolt on each side. > > > > You ll see the frame come together there. The cap head bolts are > recessed, but make sure you see a cap head in there. > > > > *Shellon & Stu* > > * ~~~~~**/)**~~~~~* > > *"Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love > truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. > Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you > didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away > from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. > Discover." Mark Twain* > > > > *From:* DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] *On > Behalf Of *Paul Whatley > *Sent:* Monday, December 30, 2013 11:18 AM > *To:* Martin Earl; Stu Mitchell > *Cc:* itsdfoot@...; DSN KLR650 > *Subject:* [Bulk] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant > > > > > > I could probably find this in the FAQ, but for the sake of time, I guess I > will ask anyway and beg forgiveness later. Where are the sub-frame bolts on > a Gen I and what is the easiest way to check them? > > > > Paul > > > > *From:* Martin Earl > *To:* Stu Mitchell > *Cc:* itsdfoot@...; DSN KLR650 dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > *Sent:* Sunday, December 29, 2013 11:42 PM > *Subject:* Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant > > > > HI Stu. > > I have followed your adventure from the first post, and the only way it > could be more miserable is if you were doing it outside, 40F under a > streetlight. > > Oh, do I feel your pain. from that extraction. > > > > NOTE: > > Following comments are especially for new readers and new owners, and for > those who have delayed doing some upgrades. > > > > IRT to the PO shearing the bolt, Kawi-engineers...and other comments from > your rant/journey. > > The best way to avoid much (KLR650) pain is to read the FAQ.s and then > read them again, and then DO as the FAQ suggests. > > (yeah, I see the bolts were sheared when you got the bike...just saying!) > It is to bad the previous owner did not follow the FAQ and its suggestions. > > > > With the FAQ, there are numerous 'suggestions' to fix dynamically weak > points of the KLR; sadly it is not just a Kawi problem. Suzi and BMVu have > there share of problems, not to mention HONDA! > > > > The engineers did not 'finish' the bike KLR650 to be an adventure bike, > rather a Walter Mitty adventure bike. > > Walter: You got dreams, this motorbike is (only) the entry point. > > If you want to campaign this bike, certain systems must be hardened or > you/me/us will be replacing the parts and THEN hardening the weak parts > > The do-hickey comes to mind; lever protectors and proper foot pegs (w/ 8.8 > bolts) also come to mind. > > How about a magnetic drain plug; and metal skid pan because I ride where > there are ROCKS-A lot. Most people don't need a metal skid plate. shrug. > > Decide how much you want to risk...I have shark fins to protect the rear > brake on two bikes...probably over kill. grin. > > Brake billet, and rear master cylinder protector...I bought, maybe not > necessary. shrug. > > > > That said, there is a lot of 'farkle' out there for sale that probably is > not necessary...not that I bought any of it. cough. > > If you want to know what is necessary, look at some USMC scout bike > photo's and act accordingly. smile. > > Most pertinent advice for adding farkle: ride the bike and see what needs > to improve. I needed barbacks and a seat upgrade. Others get along just > fine without either. shrug. > > Such as: > > If you ride when it is cold, and your hands get cold, upgrade to heated > grips; that sort of thing. > > > > IRT to the sub frame bolts: > > I replaced the sub frame bolts in all three of my KLR650's almost > immediately with the upgrade kit; nary a one was any problem thereafter. > > Remember, (any) upgrades are NOT a 100% cure-all, but a significant > preventative measure. > > 2006: I did $30K bodily damage to my body while napping in a rut and the > deputy-sheriff was disappointed that the bike had no damage. sigh. > > The upgrades protected everything... > > ER doc said I was the 'best dressed ER motorcycle customer ever'. = good > riding gear is not a guarantee of complete protection, > > > > Hardening the KLR, =IMHO: > > I DO NOT ride my KLR650 as a MX bike but at the limits of my own ability > AND the design limits of the improved/hardened KLR. > > I rarely 'fly' the bike; that said, I have never broken off any sub frame > bolts. > > However, I replace foot peg bolts with some regularity. shrug. That comes > from standing on the pegs a lot! > > My present 'favorite' KLR was bought at 20K smiles, I logged 37K more on > it and had the upgraded sub frame bolts out last week while installing the > 685 kit. Other than surface corrosion on the lower two bolts, not the > slightest indication of thread compression or shearing on any if the four > bolts . ymmv. > > > > A side note from the FAQ: > > If any of you new owners have not moved your license plate up, do so; it > is not 'if' it will disappear, but when...and that will (most likely) be > the first time you fully compress the rear shock. I bend the top 1.5 inch > of the plate at about 30degrees to stuff it up under the inner fender and > use the lic-plate bottom holes to mount the plate. > > > > revmaaatin. 38 miles on Thursday; 70 miles on Friday doing the 685 > break-in. big "Black Hills' smiles all around. > > 118 farkle/maint days till full time riding season. sigh. > > On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Stu Mitchell > wrote: > > Hey, > > > > Here is where I got my guidance > > http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205808 > > > > and here is where I got the kit > > http://www.eaglemike.com/main.sc > > > > Home of the Doo-Hickey and other handy bits and experience . > > > > I ll try to help answer any questions if you run into any issues. But, > honestly, if you don t have to go though getting a broken bolt/extractor > drilled out, it is not a bad project at all. > > > > Be very careful about metal filings from the drill. I used my automotive > dropped nut and bolt getter magnet on a stick to help control and > collect the filings. > > But you should still tape , wrap, and surgically cover the bike while > drilling. I even flipped duct tape over so I had the sticky side up to > help catch filings like fly-paper. > > > > The best cutting oil I found was in the plumbing department at Homeless > Despots > > > > Good luck - good choice for good peace of mind > > > > Editorial rant - Rhetorical: So why in the world did Kawasaki use > bolts/designs that any freshman engineer in a community college would see > are under-specced? That is what most of our upgrades are about - whether > it s the Doo-Hickey or the sub-frame bolts, to foot peg bolts or even the > available wattage for running accessories - like lights, maybe GPS not > even getting to heated accoutrements or radios. > > > > Sure, I enjoy wrenching, but I like to be able to pick my battles. > > > > But the other side is, I do believe that when all these things are done > there aren t any bikes are substantially better on the road or the trail > regardless of cost. Some may do one or the other a little better, but not > do all of them as well all of the time (borrowed from PT Barnum) as a KLR > does. Geez, I sound like an ad . > > > > So, if everything (life) comes together then I m hoping to take my ol > gal out for some real rides and that s when all of this will have been > worth it. > > > > > > Shellon & Stu > > ~~~~~/)~~~~~ > > "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, > laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty > years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do > than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the > safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. > Discover." Mark Twain > > > > From: itsdfoot@... [mailto:itsdfoot@... ] > Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 2:52 PM > To: cloudnine233@... > Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant > > > > Being a new KLR owner , I wish you did take some pictures so that we > newbies would know we're to look, I wish to do this replacement for piece > of mind, while the weather is freezing.but Don,t know where to start. Are > there any other upgrades one should know about. Thanks > > ---This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus > protection is active.http://www.avast.com[Non-text portions of this > message have been removed]------------------------------------List Sponsors > - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.comArrowhead Motorsports: > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.comList FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: > http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.htmlMembers Map > > > > > ------------------------------ > http://www.avast.com/> > > This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirushttp://www.avast.com/>protection is active. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RobertWichert]

The lower ones break too? Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 12/30/2013 9:10 AM, Martin Earl wrote: > Stu and Paul, > There are FOUR subframe bolts. > Stu correctly identifies the upper; you should replace the lower ones as > well, located immediately forward of the rear foot pegs. > > An easy way to tell if they are replace is that many of these bolts are > 'blue' and marked 8.8 on the socket head. The ones you buy from Fasenal > will be black. > revmaaatin. > > > On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 9:44 AM, Stu Mitchell wrote: > >> Hey, >> >> >> >> The nefarious bolt(s) in question are located under the southern-most >> portion of the gas tank. Directly above the connection between the carb >> and the airbox. >> >> >> >> There is a bolt on each side. >> >> >> >> You ll see the frame come together there. The cap head bolts are >> recessed, but make sure you see a cap head in there. >> >> >> >> *Shellon & Stu* >> >> * ~~~~~**/)**~~~~~* >> >> *"Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love >> truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. >> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you >> didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away >> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. >> Discover." Mark Twain* >> >> >> >> *From:* DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] *On >> Behalf Of *Paul Whatley >> *Sent:* Monday, December 30, 2013 11:18 AM >> *To:* Martin Earl; Stu Mitchell >> *Cc:* itsdfoot@...; DSN KLR650 >> *Subject:* [Bulk] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant >> >> >> >> >> >> I could probably find this in the FAQ, but for the sake of time, I guess I >> will ask anyway and beg forgiveness later. Where are the sub-frame bolts on >> a Gen I and what is the easiest way to check them? >> >> >> >> Paul >> >> >> >> *From:* Martin Earl >> *To:* Stu Mitchell >> *Cc:* itsdfoot@...; DSN KLR650 dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> >> *Sent:* Sunday, December 29, 2013 11:42 PM >> *Subject:* Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant >> >> >> >> HI Stu. >> >> I have followed your adventure from the first post, and the only way it >> could be more miserable is if you were doing it outside, 40F under a >> streetlight. >> >> Oh, do I feel your pain. from that extraction. >> >> >> >> NOTE: >> >> Following comments are especially for new readers and new owners, and for >> those who have delayed doing some upgrades. >> >> >> >> IRT to the PO shearing the bolt, Kawi-engineers...and other comments from >> your rant/journey. >> >> The best way to avoid much (KLR650) pain is to read the FAQ.s and then >> read them again, and then DO as the FAQ suggests. >> >> (yeah, I see the bolts were sheared when you got the bike...just saying!) >> It is to bad the previous owner did not follow the FAQ and its suggestions. >> >> >> >> With the FAQ, there are numerous 'suggestions' to fix dynamically weak >> points of the KLR; sadly it is not just a Kawi problem. Suzi and BMVu have >> there share of problems, not to mention HONDA! >> >> >> >> The engineers did not 'finish' the bike KLR650 to be an adventure bike, >> rather a Walter Mitty adventure bike. >> >> Walter: You got dreams, this motorbike is (only) the entry point. >> >> If you want to campaign this bike, certain systems must be hardened or >> you/me/us will be replacing the parts and THEN hardening the weak parts >> >> The do-hickey comes to mind; lever protectors and proper foot pegs (w/ 8.8 >> bolts) also come to mind. >> >> How about a magnetic drain plug; and metal skid pan because I ride where >> there are ROCKS-A lot. Most people don't need a metal skid plate. shrug. >> >> Decide how much you want to risk...I have shark fins to protect the rear >> brake on two bikes...probably over kill. grin. >> >> Brake billet, and rear master cylinder protector...I bought, maybe not >> necessary. shrug. >> >> >> >> That said, there is a lot of 'farkle' out there for sale that probably is >> not necessary...not that I bought any of it. cough. >> >> If you want to know what is necessary, look at some USMC scout bike >> photo's and act accordingly. smile. >> >> Most pertinent advice for adding farkle: ride the bike and see what needs >> to improve. I needed barbacks and a seat upgrade. Others get along just >> fine without either. shrug. >> >> Such as: >> >> If you ride when it is cold, and your hands get cold, upgrade to heated >> grips; that sort of thing. >> >> >> >> IRT to the sub frame bolts: >> >> I replaced the sub frame bolts in all three of my KLR650's almost >> immediately with the upgrade kit; nary a one was any problem thereafter. >> >> Remember, (any) upgrades are NOT a 100% cure-all, but a significant >> preventative measure. >> >> 2006: I did $30K bodily damage to my body while napping in a rut and the >> deputy-sheriff was disappointed that the bike had no damage. sigh. >> >> The upgrades protected everything... >> >> ER doc said I was the 'best dressed ER motorcycle customer ever'. = good >> riding gear is not a guarantee of complete protection, >> >> >> >> Hardening the KLR, =IMHO: >> >> I DO NOT ride my KLR650 as a MX bike but at the limits of my own ability >> AND the design limits of the improved/hardened KLR. >> >> I rarely 'fly' the bike; that said, I have never broken off any sub frame >> bolts. >> >> However, I replace foot peg bolts with some regularity. shrug. That comes >> from standing on the pegs a lot! >> >> My present 'favorite' KLR was bought at 20K smiles, I logged 37K more on >> it and had the upgraded sub frame bolts out last week while installing the >> 685 kit. Other than surface corrosion on the lower two bolts, not the >> slightest indication of thread compression or shearing on any if the four >> bolts . ymmv. >> >> >> >> A side note from the FAQ: >> >> If any of you new owners have not moved your license plate up, do so; it >> is not 'if' it will disappear, but when...and that will (most likely) be >> the first time you fully compress the rear shock. I bend the top 1.5 inch >> of the plate at about 30degrees to stuff it up under the inner fender and >> use the lic-plate bottom holes to mount the plate. >> >> >> >> revmaaatin. 38 miles on Thursday; 70 miles on Friday doing the 685 >> break-in. big "Black Hills' smiles all around. >> >> 118 farkle/maint days till full time riding season. sigh. >> >> On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Stu Mitchell >> wrote: >> >> Hey, >> >> >> >> Here is where I got my guidance >> >> http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205808 >> >> >> >> and here is where I got the kit >> >> http://www.eaglemike.com/main.sc >> >> >> >> Home of the Doo-Hickey and other handy bits and experience . >> >> >> >> I ll try to help answer any questions if you run into any issues. But, >> honestly, if you don t have to go though getting a broken bolt/extractor >> drilled out, it is not a bad project at all. >> >> >> >> Be very careful about metal filings from the drill. I used my automotive >> dropped nut and bolt getter magnet on a stick to help control and >> collect the filings. >> >> But you should still tape , wrap, and surgically cover the bike while >> drilling. I even flipped duct tape over so I had the sticky side up to >> help catch filings like fly-paper. >> >> >> >> The best cutting oil I found was in the plumbing department at Homeless >> Despots >> >> >> >> Good luck - good choice for good peace of mind >> >> >> >> Editorial rant - Rhetorical: So why in the world did Kawasaki use >> bolts/designs that any freshman engineer in a community college would see >> are under-specced? That is what most of our upgrades are about - whether >> it s the Doo-Hickey or the sub-frame bolts, to foot peg bolts or even the >> available wattage for running accessories - like lights, maybe GPS not >> even getting to heated accoutrements or radios. >> >> >> >> Sure, I enjoy wrenching, but I like to be able to pick my battles. >> >> >> >> But the other side is, I do believe that when all these things are done >> there aren t any bikes are substantially better on the road or the trail >> regardless of cost. Some may do one or the other a little better, but not >> do all of them as well all of the time (borrowed from PT Barnum) as a KLR >> does. Geez, I sound like an ad . >> >> >> >> So, if everything (life) comes together then I m hoping to take my ol >> gal out for some real rides and that s when all of this will have been >> worth it. >> >> >> >> >> >> Shellon & Stu >> >> ~~~~~/)~~~~~ >> >> "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, >> laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty >> years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do >> than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the >> safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. >> Discover." Mark Twain >> >> >> >> From: itsdfoot@... [mailto:itsdfoot@... ] >> Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 2:52 PM >> To: cloudnine233@... >> Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant >> >> >> >> Being a new KLR owner , I wish you did take some pictures so that we >> newbies would know we're to look, I wish to do this replacement for piece >> of mind, while the weather is freezing.but Don,t know where to start. Are >> there any other upgrades one should know about. Thanks >> >> ---This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus >> protection is active.http://www.avast.com[Non-text portions of this >> message have been removed]------------------------------------List Sponsors >> - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.comArrowhead Motorsports: >> http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.comList FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: >> http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.htmlMembers Map >> >> >> >> >> ------------------------------ >> http://www.avast.com/> >> >> This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirushttp://www.avast.com/>protection is active. >> >> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com > Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Members Map https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=21 ... 24023Yahoo Groups Links > > > > > >

[Stu Mitchell]

..and watch who you are calling Walter Mitty.. J I resemble that remark. I suspect the PO was a wannabe flier - he was the type to load the bike in his truck and take it up to the North GA service roads. Actually it's not that far - just traffic and a PITA - but the point is, he spent more time off than on road.. But the old girl did come with upgraded grips, Corbin seat, runs great, two sets of tires, tall windscreen, original manual and toolkit, etc. just missing a bolt head and a doo-hickey spring bitter end.. So truth be told, I probably would have bought the bike even knowing the bolt was sheared - probably just would have tried to get him a little lower - but I had no idea what the real effort was, so I doubt if I could have talked him down "enough" Not to debate - but since I am in the middle of this - They go "across" the bike, one from each side, into a sort of tube which is the frame. I believe they are Allen bolts and you can check them for tightness with a good Allen set. I forget the torque value. Tight is good. Tighten the shit out of them. Locktite them. Weld the damn things (not really). (don't forget they are metric Allen's) Eagle Mike's instructions in the kit said to torque to 33# not to exceed 40# which you may have to use if pulling the frame sides in. And yeah I Red Threadlock'd 'em .. - Uppers and lowers - lowers did get up grade in the process - but it was so anticlimactic, I didn't even mention it. My bolts still look like the original, but they do have the 8.8 stamp (included in Eagle Mike's kit). Lowers got 18# torque. Initially, I was just going to simply upgrade all the bolts to the stronger ones, until I realized the bolt was sheared and had not simply fallen out. That was decided out of laziness though. I know the through bolt is a much better solution IMHO. Thanks, Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of RobertWichert Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 12:27 PM To: Martin Earl Cc: Stu Mitchell; James Gorski; DSN KLR650 Subject: [Bulk] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant Right! Yes! It was the drill-thru that I was questioning. 8.8 bolts are good stuff. Welding them may be a bit much. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 12/30/2013 9:21 AM, Martin Earl wrote: Hi Robert, I think you have a point; to a point. smile. When the KLR walter mitty's starts to ride like Robert, rev and others, the engineers at Mother Kawi crawl into the fetal position and cry for custard popsicles or Harleys. shrug. Judging by the size of some of my 'friends' who ride the KLR, it is shear non-sense to expect the bolts to survive. grin. even a tight bolt; especially if they want to fly the pig...and you know who you are! That said: I believe the upgrade to 8.8 bolts is a valid one; and use blue lock-tight as well. ~$4 at Fastenal. For those seeking the graduate degree in KLR farkle: Some guru's like the drill through...I have one (bought in a box of 'stuff') and have not installed it. shrug. But, I (as well as my brothers) all have the upgraded 8.8 subframe bolts our KLR's. revmaaatin. On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 10:02 AM, RobertWichert wrote: Martin, Do you really think that the subframe bolts would break if they were tight? My "theory" is that if they are always tight, they will not break. Bolts are designed to be tight. As soon as they become loose, bending stress breaks them. I like this theory. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== On 12/29/2013 9:42 PM, Martin Earl wrote: HI Stu. I have followed your adventure from the first post, and the only way it could be more miserable is if you were doing it outside, 40F under a streetlight. Oh, do I feel your pain. from that extraction. NOTE: Following comments are especially for new readers and new owners, and for those who have delayed doing some upgrades. IRT to the PO shearing the bolt, Kawi-engineers...and other comments from your rant/journey. The best way to avoid much (KLR650) pain is to read the FAQ.s and then read them again, and then DO as the FAQ suggests. (yeah, I see the bolts were sheared when you got the bike...just saying!) It is to bad the previous owner did not follow the FAQ and its suggestions. With the FAQ, there are numerous 'suggestions' to fix dynamically weak points of the KLR; sadly it is not just a Kawi problem. Suzi and BMVu have there share of problems, not to mention HONDA! The engineers did not 'finish' the bike KLR650 to be an adventure bike, rather a Walter Mitty adventure bike. Walter: You got dreams, this motorbike is (only) the entry point. If you want to campaign this bike, certain systems must be hardened or you/me/us will be replacing the parts and THEN hardening the weak parts The do-hickey comes to mind; lever protectors and proper foot pegs (w/ 8.8 bolts) also come to mind. How about a magnetic drain plug; and metal skid pan because I ride where there are ROCKS-A lot. Most people don't need a metal skid plate. shrug. Decide how much you want to risk...I have shark fins to protect the rear brake on two bikes...probably over kill. grin. Brake billet, and rear master cylinder protector...I bought, maybe not necessary. shrug. That said, there is a lot of 'farkle' out there for sale that probably is not necessary...not that I bought any of it. cough. If you want to know what is necessary, look at some USMC scout bike photo's and act accordingly. smile. Most pertinent advice for adding farkle: ride the bike and see what needs to improve. I needed barbacks and a seat upgrade. Others get along just fine without either. shrug. Such as: If you ride when it is cold, and your hands get cold, upgrade to heated grips; that sort of thing. IRT to the sub frame bolts: I replaced the sub frame bolts in all three of my KLR650's almost immediately with the upgrade kit; nary a one was any problem thereafter. Remember, (any) upgrades are NOT a 100% cure-all, but a significant preventative measure. 2006: I did $30K bodily damage to my body while napping in a rut and the deputy-sheriff was disappointed that the bike had no damage. sigh. The upgrades protected everything... ER doc said I was the 'best dressed ER motorcycle customer ever'. = good riding gear is not a guarantee of complete protection, Hardening the KLR, =IMHO: I DO NOT ride my KLR650 as a MX bike but at the limits of my own ability AND the design limits of the improved/hardened KLR. I rarely 'fly' the bike; that said, I have never broken off any sub frame bolts. However, I replace foot peg bolts with some regularity. shrug. That comes from standing on the pegs a lot! My present 'favorite' KLR was bought at 20K smiles, I logged 37K more on it and had the upgraded sub frame bolts out last week while installing the 685 kit. Other than surface corrosion on the lower two bolts, not the slightest indication of thread compression or shearing on any if the four bolts . ymmv. A side note from the FAQ: If any of you new owners have not moved your license plate up, do so; it is not 'if' it will disappear, but when...and that will (most likely) be the first time you fully compress the rear shock. I bend the top 1.5 inch of the plate at about 30degrees to stuff it up under the inner fender and use the lic-plate bottom holes to mount the plate. revmaaatin. 38 miles on Thursday; 70 miles on Friday doing the 685 break-in. big "Black Hills' smiles all around. 118 farkle/maint days till full time riding season. sigh. On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Stu Mitchell wrote: Hey, Here is where I got my guidance. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205808 and here is where I got the kit - http://www.eaglemike.com/main.sc Home of the Doo-Hickey and other handy bits and experience.. I'll try to help answer any questions if you run into any issues. But, honestly, if you don't have to go though getting a broken bolt/extractor drilled out, it is not a bad project at all. Be very careful about metal filings from the drill. I used my automotive "dropped nut and bolt getter" "magnet on a stick" to help control and collect the filings. But you should still tape , wrap, and surgically cover the bike while drilling. I even flipped duct tape over so I had the sticky side up to help catch filings like fly-paper. The best cutting oil I found was in the plumbing department at Homeless Despots. Good luck - good choice for good peace of mind Editorial rant - Rhetorical: So why in the world did Kawasaki use bolts/designs that any freshman engineer in a community college would see are under-specced? That is what most of our upgrades are about - whether it's the Doo-Hickey or the sub-frame bolts, to foot peg bolts. or even the available wattage for running accessories - like lights, maybe GPS - not even getting to heated accoutrements or radios. Sure, I enjoy wrenching, but I like to be able to pick my battles. But the other side is, I do believe that when all these things are done there aren't any bikes are substantially better on the road or the trail regardless of cost. Some may do one or the other a little better, but not do all of them as well all of the time (borrowed from PT Barnum) as a KLR does. Geez, I sound like an ad.. So, if everything (life) comes together - then I'm hoping to take my ol' gal out for some real rides. and that's when all of this will have been worth it. Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain From: itsdfoot@... [mailto:itsdfoot@...] Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 2:52 PM To: cloudnine233@... Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant Being a new KLR owner , I wish you did take some pictures so that we newbies would know we're to look, I wish to do this replacement for piece of mind, while the weather is freezing.but Don,t know where to start. Are there any other upgrades one should know about. Thanks --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Members Map https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f1732283 bb6f https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f173228 3bb6f&msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023Yahoo> &msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023Yahoo Groups Links --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Stu Mitchell]

OK - Ordered Foot Pegs as recommended as a safety feature - paved or off-road From the FAQ - DR650 steel pegs (1995 or equiv), which fit right on the KLR brackets. You need 1RH front footrest, 43550- 44B10-019; 1 LH front footrest, 43560-44B10-019; and 2 springs, 09448-15008. The Kawi pins will work fine, although they are a little smaller in diameter than the DR pins. If you want to use the DR pins (p/n 09200-10008, 2 req'd), you will have to drill out the KLR peg brackets. In 1996, Suzuki widened the footpegs; if you want the wider ones, etc I went with the narrow ones. Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain From: Fred Hink [mailto:moabmc@...] Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 1:08 PM To: Martin Earl; Stu Mitchell; RobertWichert Cc: itsdfoot@...; DSN KLR650 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant This theory makes sense to me too. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: RobertWichert Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 10:02 AM To: Martin Earl ; Stu Mitchell Cc: itsdfoot@... ; DSN KLR650 dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant Martin, Do you really think that the subframe bolts would break if they were tight? My "theory" is that if they are always tight, they will not break. Bolts are designed to be tight. As soon as they become loose, bending stress breaks them. I like this theory. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 12/29/2013 9:42 PM, Martin Earl wrote: HI Stu. I have followed your adventure from the first post, and the only way it could be more miserable is if you were doing it outside, 40F under a streetlight. Oh, do I feel your pain. from that extraction. NOTE: Following comments are especially for new readers and new owners, and for those who have delayed doing some upgrades. IRT to the PO shearing the bolt, Kawi-engineers...and other comments from your rant/journey. The best way to avoid much (KLR650) pain is to read the FAQ.s and then read them again, and then DO as the FAQ suggests. (yeah, I see the bolts were sheared when you got the bike...just saying!) It is to bad the previous owner did not follow the FAQ and its suggestions. With the FAQ, there are numerous 'suggestions' to fix dynamically weak points of the KLR; sadly it is not just a Kawi problem. Suzi and BMVu have there share of problems, not to mention HONDA! The engineers did not 'finish' the bike KLR650 to be an adventure bike, rather a Walter Mitty adventure bike. Walter: You got dreams, this motorbike is (only) the entry point. If you want to campaign this bike, certain systems must be hardened or you/me/us will be replacing the parts and THEN hardening the weak parts The do-hickey comes to mind; lever protectors and proper foot pegs (w/ 8.8 bolts) also come to mind. How about a magnetic drain plug; and metal skid pan because I ride where there are ROCKS-A lot. Most people don't need a metal skid plate. shrug. Decide how much you want to risk...I have shark fins to protect the rear brake on two bikes...probably over kill. grin. Brake billet, and rear master cylinder protector...I bought, maybe not necessary. shrug. That said, there is a lot of 'farkle' out there for sale that probably is not necessary...not that I bought any of it. cough. If you want to know what is necessary, look at some USMC scout bike photo's and act accordingly. smile. Most pertinent advice for adding farkle: ride the bike and see what needs to improve. I needed barbacks and a seat upgrade. Others get along just fine without either. shrug. Such as: If you ride when it is cold, and your hands get cold, upgrade to heated grips; that sort of thing. IRT to the sub frame bolts: I replaced the sub frame bolts in all three of my KLR650's almost immediately with the upgrade kit; nary a one was any problem thereafter. Remember, (any) upgrades are NOT a 100% cure-all, but a significant preventative measure. 2006: I did $30K bodily damage to my body while napping in a rut and the deputy-sheriff was disappointed that the bike had no damage. sigh. The upgrades protected everything... ER doc said I was the 'best dressed ER motorcycle customer ever'. = good riding gear is not a guarantee of complete protection, Hardening the KLR, =IMHO: I DO NOT ride my KLR650 as a MX bike but at the limits of my own ability AND the design limits of the improved/hardened KLR. I rarely 'fly' the bike; that said, I have never broken off any sub frame bolts. However, I replace foot peg bolts with some regularity. shrug. That comes from standing on the pegs a lot! My present 'favorite' KLR was bought at 20K smiles, I logged 37K more on it and had the upgraded sub frame bolts out last week while installing the 685 kit. Other than surface corrosion on the lower two bolts, not the slightest indication of thread compression or shearing on any if the four bolts . ymmv. A side note from the FAQ: If any of you new owners have not moved your license plate up, do so; it is not 'if' it will disappear, but when...and that will (most likely) be the first time you fully compress the rear shock. I bend the top 1.5 inch of the plate at about 30degrees to stuff it up under the inner fender and use the lic-plate bottom holes to mount the plate. revmaaatin. 38 miles on Thursday; 70 miles on Friday doing the 685 break-in. big "Black Hills' smiles all around. 118 farkle/maint days till full time riding season. sigh. On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Stu Mitchell wrote: Hey, Here is where I got my guidance. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=205808 and here is where I got the kit - http://www.eaglemike.com/main.sc Home of the Doo-Hickey and other handy bits and experience.. I'll try to help answer any questions if you run into any issues. But, honestly, if you don't have to go though getting a broken bolt/extractor drilled out, it is not a bad project at all. Be very careful about metal filings from the drill. I used my automotive "dropped nut and bolt getter" "magnet on a stick" to help control and collect the filings. But you should still tape , wrap, and surgically cover the bike while drilling. I even flipped duct tape over so I had the sticky side up to help catch filings like fly-paper. The best cutting oil I found was in the plumbing department at Homeless Despots. Good luck - good choice for good peace of mind Editorial rant - Rhetorical: So why in the world did Kawasaki use bolts/designs that any freshman engineer in a community college would see are under-specced? That is what most of our upgrades are about - whether it's the Doo-Hickey or the sub-frame bolts, to foot peg bolts. or even the available wattage for running accessories - like lights, maybe GPS - not even getting to heated accoutrements or radios. Sure, I enjoy wrenching, but I like to be able to pick my battles. But the other side is, I do believe that when all these things are done there aren't any bikes are substantially better on the road or the trail regardless of cost. Some may do one or the other a little better, but not do all of them as well all of the time (borrowed from PT Barnum) as a KLR does. Geez, I sound like an ad.. So, if everything (life) comes together - then I'm hoping to take my ol' gal out for some real rides. and that's when all of this will have been worth it. Shellon & Stu ~~~~~/)~~~~~ "Life is short, break the rules, forgive quickly, kiss slowly, love truly, laugh uncontrollably, and never regret anything that made you smile. Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover." -Mark Twain From: itsdfoot@... [mailto:itsdfoot@...] Sent: Sunday, December 29, 2013 2:52 PM To: cloudnine233@... Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: changed to upper subframe bolt rant Being a new KLR owner , I wish you did take some pictures so that we newbies would know we're to look, I wish to do this replacement for piece of mind, while the weather is freezing.but Don,t know where to start. Are there any other upgrades one should know about. Thanks --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Members Map https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f1732283 bb6f https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f173228 3bb6f&msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023Yahoo> &msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023Yahoo Groups Links --- This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active. http://www.avast.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]