all electrical out

DSN_KLR650
ron criswell
Posts: 1118
Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 5:09 pm

lights out

Post by ron criswell » Fri Apr 13, 2001 2:57 pm

My High Beam is out. I replaced the bulb (4730 12v 100/55w). It is still out. Looked at the fuses and switch. Seems to be O.K. Tom Edison, I am not. Criswell

guymanbro@excite.com
Posts: 498
Joined: Fri May 05, 2000 2:51 am

lights out

Post by guymanbro@excite.com » Fri Apr 13, 2001 11:47 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Ron Criswell wrote:
> My High Beam is out. I replaced the bulb (4730 12v 100/55w). It is
still out. Looked at the fuses and switch. Seems to be O.K.
> Tom Edison, I am not. > > Criswell
Master of the obvious am I, but double check the connection to the headlight. Could be dirty or just not fully contacting the bulb. I changed a bulb only to find out this was the problem on mine. dat brooklyn bum

professor.jim@worldnet.att.net
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2001 6:57 pm

lights out

Post by professor.jim@worldnet.att.net » Sat Apr 14, 2001 3:22 am

Ron, Look closely at the connector that plugs into the back of the headlight bulb. Sometimes 1 of the wire conectors has pulled out a bit & is not making electrical contact. There is a 9-wire connector (RED) that is located under the instrument cluster. Often times an electrical problem is caused by the male/female connectors pulling apart slightly. (Keep it in your pants, guys). Each connector pair should be pushed together fully so that the plastic tabs are locked. If this doesn't solve your problem, you may have a faulty high/low switch or a broken wire in the headlight circuit. Professor A9 Federal Way, WA. [USA] ++++++++++++++++++++ --- Ron Criswell wrote:
> My High Beam is out. I replaced the bulb (4730 12v 100/55w). > It is still out. Looked at the fuses and switch. Seems to be > O.K. Tom Edison, I am not. > > Criswell

Anthony Verno
Posts: 76
Joined: Fri Oct 27, 2000 7:21 pm

lights out

Post by Anthony Verno » Sat Apr 14, 2001 9:04 am

Before you get too carried away, and even though the fuse looks good, I would replace it. I've learned to always check the obvious, the easiest and the cheapest. Just my 2 cents Have fun & ride safe. Anthony D16 '83 R100RS

professor.jim@worldnet.att.net
Posts: 52
Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2001 6:57 pm

lights out

Post by professor.jim@worldnet.att.net » Sat Apr 14, 2001 3:23 pm

Anthony, Unless you have relocated the fuses, checking or replacing the fuses on our KLRs can be a minor chore if you first have to remove both side panels, the seat & in some cases saddlebags. Checking the wire connector at the bulb is quick and easy. Checking for electrical power with a lighted continuity checker is easy to do, if you know how to use one, many don't. Many years ago, I spent many hours tracking down an electrical problem because the fuse *looked* good & I didn't verify that the fuse was good. Bottom line, the glass fuse had broken internally where the end cap & the internal fuse wire were joined. I agree, check the easy & simple things first. Just don't make improper assumptions. Professor A9 Federal Way, WA. [USA] +++++++++++++++++++++++++++ --- Anthony Verno wrote:
> Before you get too carried away, and even though the fuse > looks good, I would replace it. > I've learned to always check the obvious, the easiest and > the cheapest. Just my 2 cents > > Have fun & ride safe. > Anthony > D16 > '83 R100RS

Andrus Chesley
Posts: 573
Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2001 2:40 pm

lights out

Post by Andrus Chesley » Tue Apr 17, 2001 1:23 pm

I'm sure that you can still buy these little test lights with an ice pick type end and a clamp on a piece of wire at the other end. These are so good for checking electrical things. And , use your battery's own power to light up the bulb when you have a closed circuit. Other than that, an inexpensive volt/ohm meter can be had and really does a fine job of trouble shooting. (per example) Years ago on a Yamaha XV920RJ I had, I was getting a sluggish feel from the engine at 2500 to about 3500 rpm. I had already shimed the CV carb needles and reset the pilot screws. So, decide to quit playing and get serous to find the problem. I found that the side stand switch was showing ohmage with the stand up and should of been showing infinity. Starting the engine and checking this showed a varience of ohmage as the rpms were brought up and down. Removing this switch made the engine come alive again. Intermittent problems like this are almost impossible to find without the equipment. Another good reason to loose these safety devices effecting engine electrics before yu have problems or get stranded. Andy Chesley Jennings, La.

radklr650
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 3:42 am

lights out

Post by radklr650 » Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:33 pm

Maybe someone can save me some valuable time here. My headlights, parking light and disply lights are all not working. Brakes lights and signals are ok. Any suggestions? Also one of the bolts on the headlight that attaches to the frame throught the rubber grommett is gone. It's the one with the washer and spacer made together. Do you stock those FRED?

blocloc
Posts: 50
Joined: Sun Apr 01, 2007 5:46 pm

lights out

Post by blocloc » Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:37 pm

Blown fuse. Its under the seat.
----- Original Message ----- From: "radklr650" To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Sunday, August 05, 2007 7:33 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Lights Out > Maybe someone can save me some valuable time here. My headlights, > parking light and disply lights are all not working. Brakes lights and > signals are ok. Any suggestions? Also one of the bolts on the headlight > that attaches to the frame throught the rubber grommett is gone. It's > the one with the washer and spacer made together. Do you stock those > FRED? > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > >

dooden
Posts: 3355
Joined: Sat Dec 15, 2001 3:37 pm

lights out

Post by dooden » Sun Aug 05, 2007 9:37 pm

Fuse, under seat, black rubber thingy clipped to top of battery. I replaced a 10 with a 15 amp never popped since. Dooden A15 Green Ape
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "radklr650" wrote: > > Maybe someone can save me some valuable time here. My headlights, > parking light and disply lights are all not working. Brakes lights and > signals are ok. Any suggestions? Also one of the bolts on the headlight > that attaches to the frame throught the rubber grommett is gone. It's > the one with the washer and spacer made together. Do you stock those > FRED? >

radklr650
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu Jun 05, 2003 3:42 am

lights out

Post by radklr650 » Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:36 pm

Thanks all. It was the fuse. It's amazing I can do a valve adjustment, including changing the shims but can't manage to find a blown fuse. I guess that's what the list is for, those brain fart moments. Thanks again everyone.
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > Fuse, under seat, black rubber thingy clipped to top of battery. > > I replaced a 10 with a 15 amp never popped since. > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "radklr650" wrote: > > > > Maybe someone can save me some valuable time here. My headlights, > > parking light and disply lights are all not working. Brakes lights and > > signals are ok. Any suggestions? Also one of the bolts on the headlight > > that attaches to the frame throught the rubber grommett is gone. It's > > the one with the washer and spacer made together. Do you stock those > > FRED? > > >

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