headlight and tail light are out.

[Skypilot]

Same cooling system, even tells you to use the other manual, as the KLR600. At higher speeds like long country roads, it runs real hot. I changed the thermostat and opened up the pump. Pump looks fine ane the coolant coming out was spotless. Fan runs when 12v is applied and appears to have no issues. I did not see the fan running while riding it and dont know how to bypass the fan switch to check the switch other than pulling the switch and doing the water on the stove check. Are the switches locally available like at NAPA? My Kawi dealer folded up in the down market and the closest is a long ways away. Skypilot, A.K.A. Chris Eckert

[RobertWichert]

It could be the fuse under the seat near the battery. Just from memory, there is a test of the switch where you take the wire off the switch and touch it to ground and the fan should run. I think that's it. There is also a relay which has gone bad on mine twice. It is under the tank on the right side, as I recall. The relay can be purchased at an auto parts store as: *Manufacturer - GP Sorenson Number on Box - 41-5002 Other Part Number - R3054Z Cost - $12.98 Here is where I got the part info. It's a good discussion of how to trouble-shoot it: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451043 * Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 7/22/2013 7:12 AM, Skypilot wrote: > > Same cooling system, even tells you to use the other manual, as the > KLR600. At higher speeds like long country roads, it runs real hot. I > changed the thermostat and opened up the pump. Pump looks fine ane the > coolant coming out was spotless. > > Fan runs when 12v is applied and appears to have no issues. I did not > see the fan running while riding it and dont know how to bypass the > fan switch to check the switch other than pulling the switch and doing > the water on the stove check. > > Are the switches locally available like at NAPA? My Kawi dealer folded > up in the down market and the closest is a long ways away. > > Skypilot, > A.K.A. Chris Eckert > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Eckert, Christopher (CTO Service Delivery]

This is brilliant. Thank you. The first fuse I saw, in the white fuse holder was good but I didn't see a second one. Tank comes off after work and I will have new fuses and relays with me by the time I get home From: RobertWichert [mailto:robert@...] Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 10:35 AM To: Eckert, Christopher (CTO Service Delivery) Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] cooling issue on the KRL250 It could be the fuse under the seat near the battery. Just from memory, there is a test of the switch where you take the wire off the switch and touch it to ground and the fan should run. I think that's it. There is also a relay which has gone bad on mine twice. It is under the tank on the right side, as I recall. The relay can be purchased at an auto parts store as: Manufacturer - GP Sorenson Number on Box - 41-5002 Other Part Number - R3054Z Cost - $12.98 Here is where I got the part info. It's a good discussion of how to trouble-shoot it: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451043 Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ************************************************************ This communication, including attachments, is for the exclusive use of addressee and may contain proprietary, confidential and/or privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, copying, disclosure, dissemination or distribution is strictly prohibited. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail, delete this communication and destroy all copies. ************************************************************ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ian Francisco]

I wired in a single pole double throw switch according to a hand-written schematic I found somewhere online. Could not locate the file quickly here at work. With a spade connector, it installs without modifying the harness so it can be returned to stock. In one position the thermo-switch is in the circuit just like stock, in the opposite position the fan is always on. In the middle position the fan is always off, which obviously is not a desired outcome. Works great and can be bypassed in the field should the switch fail and is very handy. One can anticipate high temp conditions before they occur and cool the bike proactively. Exiting the interstate or encountering stop n go traffic are two scenarios where you can start to cool the bike before it needs it. Ok, I think I remembered how to wire it. One side goes to the thermo-switch, the other side to the wire that was removed from the thermo-switch (hot wire to fan) and the center pole goes to ground. -- Ian Francisco http://www.scarletfuries.com http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 09:59:44 -0700 Ian Francisco writes:

> I wired in a single pole double throw switch according to a > hand-written > schematic I found somewhere online. Could not locate the file > quickly here > at work. With a spade connector, it installs without modifying the > harness > so it can be returned to stock. In one position the thermo-switch is > in the > circuit just like stock, in the opposite position the fan is always > on. In > the middle position the fan is always off, which obviously is not a > desired > outcome. Works great and can be bypassed in the field should the > switch > fail and is very handy. One can anticipate high temp conditions > before they > occur and cool the bike proactively. Exiting the interstate or > encountering > stop n go traffic are two scenarios where you can start to cool the > bike > before it needs it. > > Ok, I think I remembered how to wire it. One side goes to the > thermo-switch, the other side to the wire that was removed from the > thermo-switch (hot wire to fan) and the center pole goes to ground. > > -- > Ian Francisco

<><><><><> <><><><><> Ian, That's how I have my switch for the fans (two radiators and two fans) on my KLR650 set up. I like the middle/off position as if a guy dumps the bike and a fan blade is jammed so it won't turn you can easily disable it until you have a chance to fix it. The downside to the switch is it is always hot and a raccoon or person could turn the fan on and kill the battery. Hasn't happened to me yet. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . ____________________________________________________________ Refinance your home now Loans under 729K usually qualify for US GOV backed refinance programs http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51eebe857e55a3e853572st01vuc

[Ian Francisco]

I suppose one could use an ignition switched circuit to power the fan circuit to avoid that problem. I tucked my switch away where is is not so easy to reach or accidentally flip off.

On Tue, Jul 23, 2013 at 10:32 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 09:59:44 -0700 Ian Francisco > writes: > > I wired in a single pole double throw switch according to a > > hand-written > > schematic I found somewhere online. Could not locate the file > > quickly here > > at work. With a spade connector, it installs without modifying the > > harness > > so it can be returned to stock. In one position the thermo-switch is > > in the > > circuit just like stock, in the opposite position the fan is always > > on. In > > the middle position the fan is always off, which obviously is not a > > desired > > outcome. Works great and can be bypassed in the field should the > > switch > > fail and is very handy. One can anticipate high temp conditions > > before they > > occur and cool the bike proactively. Exiting the interstate or > > encountering > > stop n go traffic are two scenarios where you can start to cool the > > bike > > before it needs it. > > > > Ok, I think I remembered how to wire it. One side goes to the > > thermo-switch, the other side to the wire that was removed from the > > thermo-switch (hot wire to fan) and the center pole goes to ground. > > > > -- > > Ian Francisco > <><><><><> > <><><><><> > > Ian, > > That's how I have my switch for the fans (two radiators and two fans) on > my KLR650 set up. I like the middle/off position as if a guy dumps the > bike and a fan blade is jammed so it won't turn you can easily disable it > until you have a chance to fix it. > > The downside to the switch is it is always hot and a raccoon or person > could turn the fan on and kill the battery. Hasn't happened to me yet. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > > ____________________________________________________________ > Refinance your home now > Loans under 729K usually qualify for US GOV backed refinance programs > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51eebe858f4273e8533c2st03vuc > -- Ian Francisco http://www.scarletfuries.com http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ron Haraseth]

Reminds me of a few years back when my grip heaters were wired (by the PO) direct to the battery and the cat turned them one which toasted a fairly new battery. 'Tis on an ignition controlled relay nowadays. All accessories are ignition and relay switched except the cig plug down by the battery for the air pump, but I do have a bypass switch for my USB port to keep my GPS powered during stops etc. Trying a new sealed battery now. My 3 year old slosh (which I had maintained pretty well) was showing signs of imminent termination. I was on a big ride a couple of weeks ago and it was giving more signs and I happened to be in a city were an old, old buddy (and now adv rider) happened to own an Interstate Battery operation franchise, so time to renew old ties. Quick swap at a fair discount to the new sealed unit and we'll see how long that lasts. Ron -----Original Message----- From: Ian Francisco Sent: Tuesday, July 23, 2013 1:11 PM To: Jeff Saline Cc: DSN KLR650 Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: cooling issue on the KRL250 I suppose one could use an ignition switched circuit to power the fan circuit to avoid that problem. I tucked my switch away where is is not so easy to reach or accidentally flip off.

On Tue, Jul 23, 2013 at 10:32 AM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Tue, 23 Jul 2013 09:59:44 -0700 Ian Francisco > writes: > > I wired in a single pole double throw switch according to a > > hand-written > > schematic I found somewhere online. Could not locate the file > > quickly here > > at work. With a spade connector, it installs without modifying the > > harness > > so it can be returned to stock. In one position the thermo-switch is > > in the > > circuit just like stock, in the opposite position the fan is always > > on. In > > the middle position the fan is always off, which obviously is not a > > desired > > outcome. Works great and can be bypassed in the field should the > > switch > > fail and is very handy. One can anticipate high temp conditions > > before they > > occur and cool the bike proactively. Exiting the interstate or > > encountering > > stop n go traffic are two scenarios where you can start to cool the > > bike > > before it needs it. > > > > Ok, I think I remembered how to wire it. One side goes to the > > thermo-switch, the other side to the wire that was removed from the > > thermo-switch (hot wire to fan) and the center pole goes to ground. > > > > -- > > Ian Francisco > <><><><><> > <><><><><> > > Ian, > > That's how I have my switch for the fans (two radiators and two fans) on > my KLR650 set up. I like the middle/off position as if a guy dumps the > bike and a fan blade is jammed so it won't turn you can easily disable it > until you have a chance to fix it. > > The downside to the switch is it is always hot and a raccoon or person > could turn the fan on and kill the battery. Hasn't happened to me yet. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > . > > ____________________________________________________________ > Refinance your home now > Loans under 729K usually qualify for US GOV backed refinance programs > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51eebe858f4273e8533c2st03vuc > -- Ian Francisco http://www.scarletfuries.com http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Members Map https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=212558560286766214899.0004d0fa9f1732283bb6f&msa=0&ll=38.522384,-109.489746&spn=6.831383,9.624023Yahoo! Groups Links

[Skypilot]

OK, All lights are out except for the hazard light. What year is the bike? Do blinkers work? Is the assumption that the starter circuit energizez correct? On the 08+ Wire diagram I keep coming back to the 15 amp light fuse or it's assosciated wiring.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Nichols wrote: > > Update: all the lights are out, including the instruments. But, when I turn the ignition switch to the park position (push key in, and turn all the way to the left while the bars are turned all the way to the left) the tail light and license plate light come on like they're supposed to. I'm thinking my ignition switch is the problem..

[Skypilot]

OK, I checked the fuse, it was good and I replaced the relay. then I stopped being an idiot and put the volt meter across the fan to see how much juice was there. .46 volts. followed it all the way back to the battery where it was still .46 volts. Ummmmm, ooops! The battery evidently rolled over and died and I just kept stepping over the dead body without noticing. On the 97 250 there is a kick start and no easy go button. The charging system is evidently working great because the bike runs fine, starts first kick and has lights when running. With the new battery the bike runs fine and holds the temp in the middle to high range as it should. Took it for a 100 mile romp through CT NW hills twisties yesterday to prove it. The fan relay is new and should not be an issue for a while. I have the old one as a back up and have learned a ton about this, mostly thanks to Robert, thank you!!! Note to self, always check the battery. Fan relay info

> *Manufacturer - GP Sorenson > Number on Box - 41-5002 > Other Part Number - R3054Z > Cost - $12.98 > > http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=451043