what sprocket??

[Darcy]

I have been fairly quite on this web site since I joined as I can usually find out the info I require by just searching...BUT I am confused...I have been using Rottella oil for 2 years now without issue... But I have read on some klr sites that this is not good for your engine and can cause premature engine failure...I trust the names on this site and am curious what you guys think.... Also I have done the 22cent mod and removed tweety..I had orriganaly turned the idle mixture screw out from less than 1/2 [factory setting} to 2 turns out total...then it still poped and I turned out to 2 1/4...That helped for a while but it still pops on decell...Is it okay or normal to have to turn it out more??The bike runs great otherwise...Thank you in advance everyone..I read your comments all the time and enjoy and apprciate them... Darcy

[Jud]

What names? What sites? There are plenty of self-appointed gurus out there whose advice is far from trustworthy. This is the first I have heard of premature failure due to Rotella. My own experience, 50,000 miles on Rotella, no engine failure. Never heard of a KLR engine failure that could be attributed to any oil. I doubt there is an SJ-rated oil of appropriate weight on the market that could cause premature engine failure, but there are plenty of guys who would love to sell you something other than what you are using.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Darcy" wrote: > > I have been fairly quite on this web site since I joined as I can usually find out the info I require by just searching...BUT I am confused...I have been using Rottella oil for 2 years now without issue... > But I have read on some klr sites that this is not good for your engine and can cause premature engine failure...I trust the names on this site and am curious what you guys think.... > Also I have done the 22cent mod and removed tweety..I had orriganaly turned the idle mixture screw out from less than 1/2 [factory setting} to 2 turns out total...then it still poped and I turned out to 2 1/4...That helped for a while but it still pops on decell...Is it okay or normal to have to turn it out more??The bike runs great otherwise...Thank you in advance everyone..I read your comments all the time and enjoy and apprciate them... > Darcy >

[Jeff Saline]

On Sat, 30 Mar 2013 20:08:17 -0000 "Darcy" writes:

> I have been fairly quite on this web site since I joined as I can > usually find out the info I require by just searching...BUT I am > confused...I have been using Rottella oil for 2 years now without > issue... > But I have read on some klr sites that this is not good for your > engine and can cause premature engine failure...I trust the names on > this site and am curious what you guys think.... > Also I have done the 22cent mod and removed tweety..I had orriganaly > turned the idle mixture screw out from less than 1/2 [factory > setting} to 2 turns out total...then it still poped and I turned out > to 2 1/4...That helped for a while but it still pops on decell...Is > it okay or normal to have to turn it out more??The bike runs great > otherwise...Thank you in advance everyone..I read your comments all > the time and enjoy and apprciate them... > Darcy

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Darcy, I use Rotella 15w/40 Dino oil in my KLR based on oil analysis I've done on my KLR with me riding it. I don't believe it will hurt an engine as long as it's inside the engine and changed before it drops from a 40 to a 30. There are lots of damaged engine stories base on no oil inside the engine. Cam journals seem to be the first thing to go when oil starvation happens. Checking the oil level every time fuel is added is a good practice. Since someone is going to ask me about my oil change interval... on my bike, using Rotella 15w/40, with me riding it in the conditions I normally ride in I change my oil every 1,750 smiles. I have lower gearing than many and thus turn a few higher rpms than a stock geared KLR. I also change my oil filter every other oil change. I also keep my air filter clean and use No Toil filter maintenance products. All of this impacts oil analysis results. It's a starting point for a KLR but each one is different. I also don't use fuel with ethanol, take really short rides where the engine doesn't get to operating temperature and also have a Thermobob like stat housing and by-pass for the cooling system and I've got dual radiators. My bike is probably different from most. If you are concerned about using Rotella based on what is posted on some KLR sites I suggest you ask them for validated data. Then make a decision based on the data and your judgement. And if you actually get some data please feel free to share it here for everyone's education. As for the idle mixture screw setting and popping. If you have a GEN II KLR, the AIS will increase popping compared with a GEN I KLR that didn't come with AIS. You might also check the header acorn nuts to make sure they are tight and not allowing a leak at the head to header pipe junction. This is a common issue if folks don't regularly do fastener maintenance. As I recall the torque is 15 or 18 foot pounds. It doesn't take much more than that to damage the gasket which is a one time use part. Setting the idle mixture screw is unique to each engine. Get the engine hot as in ride it at least 10 miles. Then turn the screw out until the idle gets to maximum speed. Turn in counting the turns until the idle stumbles. Then split the difference. Adjust the idle speed with the screw on the side of the carb. Then do the mixture screw adjustment again and readjust the idle speed if needed. I like to have my idle mixture as lean as possible without having a stumble just off of idle under load. You should not have to continually mess with the idle mixture setting once it is done correctly. And that includes riding at altitude. A leaking petcock diaphragm will allow fuel to be sucked into the intake tract and cause idle issues on a hot engine. Turning up the idle speed will introduce more air which leans the air/fuel mixture and allows a faster than normal idle speed. It does not fix the leaking diaphragm. Carb adjustments should be done once and then when something changes it's time for investigation to correct the issue. Oh, idle speed is normally 1,200-1,400 rpm. Wattman recently commented he runs below 1,000 rpm without issue (as in oil pressure related problems). He currently has over 90,000 smiles on his KLR with no engine work done other than the doohickey and a T-Bob. Also, when riding and popping. Try adding just a tad bit of throttle and see if that changes the popping. If the popping goes away when you add just a little throttle you might be able to richen the idle mixture (turn the screw out) just a tad which is maybe 1/4 turn. If adding throttle doesn't reduce or eliminate the popping then adding fuel via the idle mixture screw probably won't do anything positive. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . . ____________________________________________________________ Woman is 53 But Looks 25 Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/51575f1d90dbf5f1d634bst02vuc

[Darcy Harvey]

I am glad that there is a group opinion on Rottella and I am not wrecking my engine ;+} Thank you for your input ..I will continue to use the Rottella and not worry ever again..P:S I change my oil every 1000km as well.... Here is the "experts" opinion on oil and the link..... http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/ti_archive/tijan10.html TECHNICAL INSIGHTS Technical Insights; first seen in Kawasaki Dual Sport News Feb./Dec. 1997 now found on topgunmotorcycles.com There have been lots of bad ideas furnished to KLR riders on the internet. Three of the worst are: * Replace your 08/09 strong forged thick bladed "doohickey" with a weaker machined aftermarket copy of the original. * Equip your KLR650 with 16/43 final gearing which is likely to decrease engine life and lower your fuel mileage (have you heard of "pumping losses" and lugging your engine?). * Use diesel oil like Shell Rotella in your engine. Well, the motorcycle manufacturers have finally caught wind of the diesel oil craziness. The owner s manual for Top Gun's new 2009 Yamaha WR250R says the following about engine oil: NOTICE: Do not use engine oil additives; they may cause clutch slippage. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "energy conserving II or higher". Any of the top motorcycle engine oils made by Spectro, Belray, Mobil (not car Mobil 1), Honda HP4, or Maxima, for instance, will do the job as long as they are API rated for service "SG" or higher and have a "JASO" standard "MA". Only oils formulated for use in motorcycle engines with integrated transmissions and clutches can withstand the shearing forces that will quickly breakdown an oil blended for use in gasoline and diesel truck or car engines. You would be amazed how quickly your KLR650 engine can take a diesel engine oil from say 20W-50 down to 20W. Like John Arbuckle says, "you get what you pay for". What no one wants to pay for is a pre-mature engine rebuild. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Darcy Harvey]

Hi Jeff Thank you for the input/info on how to correct my lean popping on my bike....I will try these tips and hopefully eliminate the issue..Its a 2004 by the way.....as per the last post I'm not going to worry about using Rottella as it seems that issue was only one persons opinion with no hard facts to back it up.. Thanks again guys...Ill continue to love and ride my KLR and keep learning from your forums.. Darcy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ron criswell]

News to me. I have been using Rotella 15w 40w for years in my KLR and Concours, with 55,000 miles on the KLR and 62,000 miles on the Concours. I change every 3000 miles. The oil was recommended to me by two longtime motorcycle mechanics that also teach small engine repair. Criswell Sent from my iPad

On Mar 31, 2013, at 9:31 AM, Darcy Harvey wrote: > I am glad that there is a group opinion on Rottella and I am not wrecking my engine ;+} > Thank you for your input ..I will continue to use the Rottella and not worry ever again..P:S I change my oil every 1000km as well.... > Here is the "experts" opinion on oil and the link..... > > http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/ti_archive/tijan10.html > > TECHNICAL INSIGHTS > > Technical Insights; first seen in Kawasaki Dual Sport News Feb./Dec. 1997 now > found on topgunmotorcycles.com > > There have been lots of bad ideas furnished to KLR riders on the internet. Three of the > worst are: > > * Replace your 08/09 strong forged thick bladed "doohickey" with a weaker machined > aftermarket copy of the original. > > * Equip your KLR650 with 16/43 final gearing which is likely to decrease engine life > and lower your fuel mileage (have you heard of "pumping losses" and lugging your > engine?). > > * Use diesel oil like Shell Rotella in your engine. > > Well, the motorcycle manufacturers have finally caught wind of the diesel oil craziness. > The owner s manual for Top Gun's new 2009 Yamaha WR250R says the following about > engine oil: > > NOTICE: Do not use engine oil additives; they may cause clutch slippage. Do not use oils > with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do > not use oils labeled "energy conserving II or higher". > > Any of the top motorcycle engine oils made by Spectro, Belray, Mobil (not car Mobil 1), > Honda HP4, or Maxima, for instance, will do the job as long as they are API rated for > service "SG" or higher and have a "JASO" standard "MA". > > Only oils formulated for use in motorcycle engines with integrated transmissions and > clutches can withstand the shearing forces that will quickly breakdown an oil blended for > use in gasoline and diesel truck or car engines. You would be amazed how quickly your > KLR650 engine can take a diesel engine oil from say 20W-50 down to 20W. > > Like John Arbuckle says, "you get what you pay for". What no one wants to pay for is a > pre-mature engine rebuild. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud]

That's one of the sites I had in mind. Two pieces of bad advice right there. I happen to agree on the third, about not raising your gearing, but for totally different reasons than theirs.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Darcy Harvey wrote: > > I am glad that there is a group opinion on Rottella and I am not wrecking my engine ;+} > Thank you for your input ..I will continue to use the Rottella and not worry ever again..P:S I change my oil every 1000km as well.... > Here is the "experts" opinion on oil and the link..... > > http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/ti_archive/tijan10.html > > > TECHNICAL INSIGHTS > > Technical Insights; first seen in Kawasaki Dual Sport News Feb./Dec. 1997 now > found on topgunmotorcycles.com > > There have been lots of bad ideas furnished to KLR riders on the internet. Three of the > worst are: > > > * Replace your 08/09 strong forged thick bladed "doohickey" with a weaker machined > aftermarket copy of the original. > > * Equip your KLR650 with 16/43 final gearing which is likely to decrease engine life > and lower your fuel mileage (have you heard of "pumping losses" and lugging your > engine?). > > * Use diesel oil like Shell Rotella in your engine. > > Well, the motorcycle manufacturers have finally caught wind of the diesel oil craziness. > The owner s manual for Top Gun's new 2009 Yamaha WR250R says the following about > engine oil: > > NOTICE: Do not use engine oil additives; they may cause clutch slippage. Do not use oils > with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do > not use oils labeled "energy conserving II or higher". > > Any of the top motorcycle engine oils made by Spectro, Belray, Mobil (not car Mobil 1), > Honda HP4, or Maxima, for instance, will do the job as long as they are API rated for > service "SG" or higher and have a "JASO" standard "MA". > > Only oils formulated for use in motorcycle engines with integrated transmissions and > clutches can withstand the shearing forces that will quickly breakdown an oil blended for > use in gasoline and diesel truck or car engines. You would be amazed how quickly your > KLR650 engine can take a diesel engine oil from say 20W-50 down to 20W. > > Like John Arbuckle says, "you get what you pay for". What no one wants to pay for is a > pre-mature engine rebuild. > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Eddie]

The gearing thing, I can see. Lugging is a bad thing. But, the new Doohickey *may* be as good as the replacement (vice versa). That does not acknowledge the fact that the springs are the problem these days. My 09's was barely tight at the initial service when I replaced it with a torsion spring from Eagle Mike. It wouldn't have been long before the OEM spring was useless. The oil comment in their WR250R manual was the same one in my 12' XT1200's book. These days, it may have something to do with diesel oil additives and catalytic converters. Who knows? Apples and oranges: But my 04' HD XL1200's book actually said on a trip, etc... that if the oil needed topping off, in lieu of genuine Harley oil, Caterpillar diesel oil could be used until you got home and could change it. -eddie

----- Original Message ----- From: Jud To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 12:28 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: What oil?? What air fuel mixture That's one of the sites I had in mind. Two pieces of bad advice right there. I happen to agree on the third, about not raising your gearing, but for totally different reasons than theirs.

[Fred Hink]

Group opinion ? Did I miss something? Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: Darcy Harvey Sent: Sunday, March 31, 2013 8:31 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: What oil?? What air fuel mixture I am glad that there is a group opinion on Rottella and I am not wrecking my engine ;+} Thank you for your input ..I will continue to use the Rottella and not worry ever again..P:S I change my oil every 1000km as well.... Here is the "experts" opinion on oil and the link..... http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/ti_archive/tijan10.html TECHNICAL INSIGHTS Technical Insights; first seen in Kawasaki Dual Sport News Feb./Dec. 1997 now found on topgunmotorcycles.com There have been lots of bad ideas furnished to KLR riders on the internet. Three of the worst are: * Replace your 08/09 strong forged thick bladed "doohickey" with a weaker machined aftermarket copy of the original. * Equip your KLR650 with 16/43 final gearing which is likely to decrease engine life and lower your fuel mileage (have you heard of "pumping losses" and lugging your engine?). * Use diesel oil like Shell Rotella in your engine. Well, the motorcycle manufacturers have finally caught wind of the diesel oil craziness. The owner s manual for Top Gun's new 2009 Yamaha WR250R says the following about engine oil: NOTICE: Do not use engine oil additives; they may cause clutch slippage. Do not use oils with a diesel specification of "CD" or oils of a higher quality than specified. In addition, do not use oils labeled "energy conserving II or higher". Any of the top motorcycle engine oils made by Spectro, Belray, Mobil (not car Mobil 1), Honda HP4, or Maxima, for instance, will do the job as long as they are API rated for service "SG" or higher and have a "JASO" standard "MA". Only oils formulated for use in motorcycle engines with integrated transmissions and clutches can withstand the shearing forces that will quickly breakdown an oil blended for use in gasoline and diesel truck or car engines. You would be amazed how quickly your KLR650 engine can take a diesel engine oil from say 20W-50 down to 20W. Like John Arbuckle says, "you get what you pay for". What no one wants to pay for is a pre-mature engine rebuild. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Darcy Harvey]

I'm sorry Fred since you didn't comment I assumed you agreed that there wasn't any problem with using rotela oil. I read this forum all the time and have learned so much from you guys, consequently. I know that your on here all the time so if I presumed you agreed sorry... Do you agree with this column that I pasted that says using the rotela oil will do damage or cause diminished longevity then. .? Thank you again for all the good advice....a couple years ago when I bought my bike I came on here to get advice on how to ride the beast off road and you gave me some tips that helped immensely..I now ride off road as much as I'm able... Darcy [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]