farklebar

[sweetassdave]

I've ridden quite a bit in Honduras and Guatemala with my '06 already and haven't experience any problems with the temp. spiking, but it was never over 80 degrees. Does anyone have tips for a desert ride if I travel through Mexico? Does 'Water Wetter' actually make a difference if added to the coolant? Thanks, Dave of Wisconsin

[Krgrife@aol.com]

In a message dated 2/23/2006 11:04:57 A.M. Pacific Standard Time, sweetassdave@... writes: I've ridden quite a bit in Honduras and Guatemala with my '06 already and haven't experience any problems with the temp. spiking, but it was never over 80 degrees. Does anyone have tips for a desert ride if I travel through Mexico? Does 'Water Wetter' actually make a difference if added to the coolant? I have done a lot of hot weather desert riding both here in California and in Mexico. I have never had an overheating problem. I have tried various coolant mixtures including just distilled water with Water Wetter and really haven't noticed any difference. I now use about 1/3 coolant and 2/3 distilled water. Like others have reported, my bike started running a little cooler after turning out the pilot screw and shimming the needle .020" to slightly enrichen the mixture. Kurt [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Feb 23, 2006, at 11:02 AM, sweetassdave wrote:

> Does 'Water Wetter' actually make a difference > if added to the coolant?

Water Wetter does work, but it isn't a miracle worker. It'll give you a little bit more margin; Red Line tests showed an 8 degree drop in coolant temps with a 50/50 mix that included Water Wetter. With the KLR's undersized cooling system, it's probably a good idea to use it if you expect to run in hot temps. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[Dan Paulsen]

On a 6400 mile ride two summers ago that included riding thru NM, TX and AZ in May/June it was over 100 deg F and 112 sitting in traffic in El Paso. Yeah the temp gauge was in the high range but not in the red, the fan was on frequently and definitely when stopped but never overheated or lost any coolant. Never had to add coolant. My impression after 36k miles on my '01 is the cooling system is adequate under any condition of my operation. I was never riding a low speed thru sand in the desert. Another view I have of temp gauges in general are they are INDICATORS and many do not tell you the actual temp of the cooling system. Dan P, la la la la, life is good...

[Arden Kysely]

105 degrees, fully loaded, two KLRs riding slow for several hours over rough roads with plenty of sand where they crossed washes. Needles were close to the red, but not in it. No problems with overheating, burning oil, or general performance on either one. Your temperature may vary. __Arden --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dan Paulsen" wrote:

> > On a 6400 mile ride two summers ago that included riding thru NM,

TX

> and AZ in May/June it was over 100 deg F and 112 sitting in traffic

in

> El Paso. Yeah the temp gauge was in the high range but not in the

red,

> the fan was on frequently and definitely when stopped but never > overheated or lost any coolant. Never had to add coolant. > My impression after 36k miles on my '01 is the cooling system is > adequate under any condition of my operation. I was never riding a

low

> speed thru sand in the desert. > Another view I have of temp gauges in general are they are

INDICATORS

> and many do not tell you the actual temp of the cooling system. > Dan P, la la la la, life is good... >

[Bill Watson]

I've calibrated a few factory KLR gauges and make a temp gauge face for the KLR. It's at the very bottom of www.xanga.com/watt_man. I did lots of testing last year (I live in Phoenix, so I've got some 100 degree plus day tests) and will type it all up this summer when everyone starts to care about overheating. Overall the bike does get by as-is from the factory, they're not dropping like flies at the side of the road. But I think it could be improved as it does run a tad hot for my tastes. Stock bikes run around 130 over ambient at a steady 60 mph. I.E., 110 degree day, 60 mph steady state results in 240F water... go faster, it gets hotter. Ride in the dirt, gets hotter... I consider 240F to be a point I'd like to never exceed if possible, so it seems crazy that steady state operation on a flat road results in 240F water. A few members have pointed out they're just short of the red zone - which after some tests, I have found that it starts at 255F and goes to 270F. That's too hot for me. There are a few mods that can help out to make things a little better. I don't have the numbers in front of me this second (got to run) but the three biggies that were worth nearly 10 degrees each were: Pure distilled water with a anti-corrosion agent instead of 50/50 ethlyene glycol and water Removing the front fender (or installing a low one) Blocking off airflow that sneaks around the radiator (sometimes known as the "pat-man mod" I've done other tests that did not show any improvement for water wetter. the concept is to reduce surface tension in the water. In pure water, yes WW would help. But Coolant already has the surface tension reducers so it doesn't seem to make a difference if you run coolant and add WW. Furthermore if you run pure water an anti-corrosive such as the stuff from Prestone (A.K.A. "Milky white stuff") also has the surface tension reducers - at a much lower cost. For what it's worth, Bill Watson Phoenix --------------------------------- Brings words and photos together (easily) with PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[clint lee jin yew]

has anyone tried to install those plastic radiator guards like those found on the klx/ktm lc4? my guess is that it would probably work. a friend of mine gave the idea of replacing the coolant tank with a small radiator so that when the main tank needs water , a cold supply goes in, better cooling. and when the main pumps water into the left tank ( hot water) it gets a chance to cool down faster. makes sense huh? i was thinking of doing it but currently am low on the $$$$. if there is anyone out there who has done it , please do tell if it works. running over here in malaysia , when the temp gets high, i just give it more gas and go faster to get more air through. hehehee clint

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bill Watson wrote: > > I've calibrated a few factory KLR gauges and make a temp gauge face for the KLR. It's at the very bottom of www.xanga.com/watt_man. > > I did lots of testing last year (I live in Phoenix, so I've got some 100 degree plus day tests) and will type it all up this summer when everyone starts to care about overheating. Overall the bike does get by as-is from the factory, they're not dropping like flies at the side of the road. But I think it could be improved as it does run a tad hot for my tastes. Stock bikes run around 130 over ambient at a steady 60 mph. I.E., 110 degree day, 60 mph steady state results in 240F water... go faster, it gets hotter. Ride in the dirt, gets hotter... > > I consider 240F to be a point I'd like to never exceed if possible, so it seems crazy that steady state operation on a flat road results in 240F water. A few members have pointed out they're just short of the red zone - which after some tests, I have found that it starts at 255F and goes to 270F. That's too hot for me. There are a few mods that can help out to make things a little better. > > I don't have the numbers in front of me this second (got to run) but the three biggies that were worth nearly 10 degrees each were: > > Pure distilled water with a anti-corrosion agent instead of 50/50 ethlyene glycol and water > > Removing the front fender (or installing a low one) > > Blocking off airflow that sneaks around the radiator (sometimes known as the "pat-man mod" > > I've done other tests that did not show any improvement for water wetter. the concept is to reduce surface tension in the water. In pure water, yes WW would help. But Coolant already has the surface tension reducers so it doesn't seem to make a difference if you run coolant and add WW. Furthermore if you run pure water an anti- corrosive such as the stuff from Prestone (A.K.A. "Milky white stuff") also has the surface tension reducers - at a much lower cost. > > For what it's worth, > Bill Watson > Phoenix > > > --------------------------------- > Brings words and photos together (easily) with > PhotoMail - it's free and works with Yahoo! Mail. > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Blake El Explorador]

Hey everyone, here reading through all the overheating related issues on sixfifty.net, thought maybe someone here may help me pinpoint what I m looking for: 02 KLR overheating after a couple of crashes and getting hit by a truck (But I m okay! 6 lives left! Fan works, had to cut it down a bit so it doesn t rub on the tweaked mount . Rad has lost maybe five percent surface area due to irreparably twisted fins. All in all, the bike should in my uninformed opinion run only nominally hotter than usual, but I have to stop the bike when idling at the moment or it will just rise in temp steadily until I either overheat or hit a good stretch of road to get up to speed and cool it down. Any opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Being stuck here isn t all bad, but I m anxious to get the bike running again. Cheers Blake [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[ron criswell]

I had an issue with overheating once in Moab at lower speeds....fan wasn't working. It unplugged its connection plug under the speedo dash...but you say the fan is working correct? At higher speeds it should be OK due to air cooling effect. I guess your Floyd level is OK? I use Engine Ice for fluid. Criswell Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 6, 2012, at 11:27 AM, Blake El Explorador wrote: > > Hey everyone, here reading through all the overheating related issues on sixfifty.net, thought maybe someone here may help me pinpoint what I m looking for: > > 02 KLR overheating after a couple of crashes and getting hit by a truck (But I m okay! 6 lives left! > > Fan works, had to cut it down a bit so it doesn t rub on the tweaked mount . Rad has lost maybe five percent surface area due to irreparably twisted fins. All in all, the bike should in my uninformed opinion run only nominally hotter than usual, but I have to stop the bike when idling at the moment or it will just rise in temp steadily until I either overheat or hit a good stretch of road to get up to speed and cool it down. > > Any opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Being stuck here isn t all bad, but I m anxious to get the bike running again. > > Cheers > > Blake > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RobertWichert]

Does the fan start up when the bike is idling and it gets hot (3/4 on the gauge)? If not, you got relay or sensor issues. You can direct wire it if you need to bypass all that. When the fan starts, does it move any air? Try a cigarette in front to see if it moves air. A CIGARETTE! Or a cigar will work. Nothing fancy. : ) If it doesn't move air you are either running it backwards (it could happen, I guess) or your trim job was too much or your fins are more blocked than you thought. Let us know how it's going. I'm sure others will have better ideas. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 11/6/2012 9:27 AM, Blake El Explorador wrote: > > > Hey everyone, here reading through all the overheating related issues > on sixfifty.net, thought maybe someone here may help me pinpoint what > I m looking for: > > 02 KLR overheating after a couple of crashes and getting hit by a > truck (But I m okay! 6 lives left! > > Fan works, had to cut it down a bit so it doesn t rub on the tweaked > mount . Rad has lost maybe five percent surface area due to > irreparably twisted fins. All in all, the bike should in my uninformed > opinion run only nominally hotter than usual, but I have to stop the > bike when idling at the moment or it will just rise in temp steadily > until I either overheat or hit a good stretch of road to get up to > speed and cool it down. > > Any opinions or advice would be greatly appreciated. Being stuck here > isn t all bad, but I m anxious to get the bike running again. > > Cheers > > Blake > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]