digest number 12189

[skc4seasons]

I was checking spring tension on my 2009 with 11,000 miles and misread the manuals specified torque recomendation and was trying to torque to ft lbs instead of in lbs. after only getting up to about 20 ft lbs on my cheap torque wrench I realized something wasn't right and went back and re-read the manual. I then proceeded with the right specs. Is it possible I screwed something up? Also- I keep reading about no adjustment being left in the spring. How do I tell if ther is the right amont in the tensioner?

[Jeffrey]

if you mean doohickey adjuster tension, you probably put a crimp in it so it probably won't adjust anymore unless you already upgraded to a stronger doohickey. If you meant cam chain tension...cam chains aren't adjustable. There is a spring that auto adjusts it. If you put 20 ft lbs on it, you probably didn't hurt anything as long as you didn't strip whatever you were working on. Two small bolts hold the adjuster in.

[Tam a'Rack]

Speaking of doohickeys. Is there any way I can tell if my doo has already been hickeyed without tearing into the motor? I picked up a used 2003 with 14,000 miles on it and I don't know much about it's history. The bike has an issue, that I think is NOT doohickey related. But figured I would ask about the doohickeys anyhow. Problem with the bike is, it does not have any power over 3k rpm, and WOT it will not go over 60mph or much over 5k rpm (down hill with a tailwind) The bike runs ok at lower speeds and pulls ok until you get the revs close to 4k, then it just looses its balls. The seat feel is not bad at lower speeds and lower rpm. It will not wind up enough to really spin the rear tire. It just digs in and goes. Just not pulling real hard through the rpm like it should. Compression seems good. It will lock up the rear end if you downshift, even on pavement the tire will chirp if you drop from 2nd to 1st too fast. It feels like a fuel related issue to me. The previous owner said he had the petcock and carbs rebuilt. I talked to the guy that did the work, and I would not want him to tie my shoes, much less work on my motorcycle. He has no idea what he is doing... And I suspect he messed something up and as a result the motor starves for fuel when under load. Tam ________________________________ From: Jeffrey To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2012 9:29 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Cam chain tension if you mean doohickey adjuster tension, you probably put a crimp in it so it probably won't adjust anymore unless you already upgraded to a stronger doohickey. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 22 Jul 2012 08:58:18 -0700 (PDT) Tam a'Rack writes:

> Speaking of doohickeys. > Is there any way I can tell if my doo has already been hickeyed > without tearing into the motor? > I picked up a used 2003 with 14,000 miles on it and I don't know > much about it's history. > > > The bike has an issue, that I think is NOT doohickey related. But > figured I would ask about the doohickeys anyhow. > > Problem with the bike is, it does not have any power over 3k rpm, > and WOT it will not go over 60mph or much over 5k rpm (down hill > with a tailwind) > The bike runs ok at lower speeds and pulls ok until you get the revs > close to 4k, then it just looses its balls. > The seat feel is not bad at lower speeds and lower rpm. It will not > wind up enough to really spin the rear tire. It just digs in and > goes. > Just not pulling real hard through the rpm like it should. > Compression seems good. It will lock up the rear end if you > downshift, even on pavement the tire will chirp if you drop from 2nd > to 1st too fast. > > > It feels like a fuel related issue to me. The previous owner said he > had the petcock and carbs rebuilt. I talked to the guy that did the > work, and I would not want him to tie my shoes, much less work on my > motorcycle. He has no idea what he is doing... > And I suspect he messed something up and as a result the motor > starves for fuel when under load. > > Tam

<><><><> <><><><> Tam, You'll have to open the engine to inspect the doo. Might not be able to tell until you remove the rotor for a good visual. Not much of the doo is visible with the rotor in place. But if it has a torsion spring you should be able to tell with the rotor in place. Revmaaatin and I checked a KLR out a few weeks ago and the torsion spring was the give away. My guess is anyone that puts in a torsion spring will also use a new doo. For the power issue... if I was working this the first thing I'd do is check cam timing. Since I'd be in far enough to check the cam timing I'd also check and adjust valve clearance to maximum spec. For me, just having the valve clearances in spec is not good enough. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ Woman is 53 But Looks 25 Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/500c50005c5f64fff2ff2st53vuc

[RobertWichert]

It sounds like fuel to me, too, but it could also be a blocked air cleaner. That's easier to check. But since the previous mechanic isn't trustworthy, I'd go after the carburetor right after checking the air cleaner. Check jet, needle, diaphragm, the whole shebang. I don't know what a new-from-kawasaki carburetor costs, but with enough bad mechanicing, you might be going there. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 7/22/2012 12:08 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Sun, 22 Jul 2012 08:58:18 -0700 (PDT) Tam a'Rack > > writes: > > Speaking of doohickeys. > > Is there any way I can tell if my doo has already been hickeyed > > without tearing into the motor? > > I picked up a used 2003 with 14,000 miles on it and I don't know > > much about it's history. > > > > > > The bike has an issue, that I think is NOT doohickey related. But > > figured I would ask about the doohickeys anyhow. > > > > Problem with the bike is, it does not have any power over 3k rpm, > > and WOT it will not go over 60mph or much over 5k rpm (down hill > > with a tailwind) > > The bike runs ok at lower speeds and pulls ok until you get the revs > > close to 4k, then it just looses its balls. > > The seat feel is not bad at lower speeds and lower rpm. It will not > > wind up enough to really spin the rear tire. It just digs in and > > goes. > > Just not pulling real hard through the rpm like it should. > > Compression seems good. It will lock up the rear end if you > > downshift, even on pavement the tire will chirp if you drop from 2nd > > to 1st too fast. > > > > > > It feels like a fuel related issue to me. The previous owner said he > > had the petcock and carbs rebuilt. I talked to the guy that did the > > work, and I would not want him to tie my shoes, much less work on my > > motorcycle. He has no idea what he is doing... > > And I suspect he messed something up and as a result the motor > > starves for fuel when under load. > > > > Tam > <><><><> > <><><><> > > Tam, > > You'll have to open the engine to inspect the doo. Might not be able to > tell until you remove the rotor for a good visual. Not much of the doo > is visible with the rotor in place. But if it has a torsion spring you > should be able to tell with the rotor in place. Revmaaatin and I checked > a KLR out a few weeks ago and the torsion spring was the give away. My > guess is anyone that puts in a torsion spring will also use a new doo. > > For the power issue... if I was working this the first thing I'd do is > check cam timing. Since I'd be in far enough to check the cam timing I'd > also check and adjust valve clearance to maximum spec. For me, just > having the valve clearances in spec is not good enough. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > __________________________________________________________ > Woman is 53 But Looks 25 > Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/500c50005c5f64fff2ff2st53vuc > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RobertWichert]

How about this... The last guy who worked on it totally saturated the air cleaner with oil. Just a guess. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 7/22/2012 12:08 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Sun, 22 Jul 2012 08:58:18 -0700 (PDT) Tam a'Rack > > writes: > > Speaking of doohickeys. > > Is there any way I can tell if my doo has already been hickeyed > > without tearing into the motor? > > I picked up a used 2003 with 14,000 miles on it and I don't know > > much about it's history. > > > > > > The bike has an issue, that I think is NOT doohickey related. But > > figured I would ask about the doohickeys anyhow. > > > > Problem with the bike is, it does not have any power over 3k rpm, > > and WOT it will not go over 60mph or much over 5k rpm (down hill > > with a tailwind) > > The bike runs ok at lower speeds and pulls ok until you get the revs > > close to 4k, then it just looses its balls. > > The seat feel is not bad at lower speeds and lower rpm. It will not > > wind up enough to really spin the rear tire. It just digs in and > > goes. > > Just not pulling real hard through the rpm like it should. > > Compression seems good. It will lock up the rear end if you > > downshift, even on pavement the tire will chirp if you drop from 2nd > > to 1st too fast. > > > > > > It feels like a fuel related issue to me. The previous owner said he > > had the petcock and carbs rebuilt. I talked to the guy that did the > > work, and I would not want him to tie my shoes, much less work on my > > motorcycle. He has no idea what he is doing... > > And I suspect he messed something up and as a result the motor > > starves for fuel when under load. > > > > Tam > <><><><> > <><><><> > > Tam, > > You'll have to open the engine to inspect the doo. Might not be able to > tell until you remove the rotor for a good visual. Not much of the doo > is visible with the rotor in place. But if it has a torsion spring you > should be able to tell with the rotor in place. Revmaaatin and I checked > a KLR out a few weeks ago and the torsion spring was the give away. My > guess is anyone that puts in a torsion spring will also use a new doo. > > For the power issue... if I was working this the first thing I'd do is > check cam timing. Since I'd be in far enough to check the cam timing I'd > also check and adjust valve clearance to maximum spec. For me, just > having the valve clearances in spec is not good enough. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > __________________________________________________________ > Woman is 53 But Looks 25 > Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/500c50005c5f64fff2ff2st53vuc > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud]

Check that your carb diaphragm is intact. If not, you may be able to effect a temporary repair with electrical tape or RTV, but the real solution is a new diaphragm (a new slide, really, with diaphragm attached). Don't buy the Kawi part, which goes for something north of a hunnert bucks. The Harley Sportster part (before FI, sportsters used a CV40 carb very similar to the CVK 40 on the KLR) is closer to forty dollars. While you are on the subject of diaphragms, check the one in your petcock as well. A small tear may give the symptoms you describe.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tam a'Rack wrote: > > Speaking of doohickeys. > Is there any way I can tell if my doo has already been hickeyed without tearing into the motor? > I picked up a used 2003 with 14,000 miles on it and I don't know much about it's history. > > > The bike has an issue, that I think is NOT doohickey related. But figured I would ask about the doohickeys anyhow. > > Problem with the bike is, it does not have any power over 3k rpm, and WOT it will not go over 60mph or much over 5k rpm (down hill with a tailwind) > The bike runs ok at lower speeds and pulls ok until you get the revs close to 4k, then it just looses its balls. > The seat feel is not bad at lower speeds and lower rpm. It will not wind up enough to really spin the rear tire. It just digs in and goes. > Just not pulling real hard through the rpm like it should. Compression seems good. It will lock up the rear end if you downshift, even on pavement the tire will chirp if you drop from 2nd to 1st too fast. > > > It feels like a fuel related issue to me. The previous owner said he had the petcock and carbs rebuilt. I talked to the guy that did the work, and I would not want him to tie my shoes, much less work on my motorcycle. He has no idea what he is doing... > And I suspect he messed something up and as a result the motor starves for fuel when under load. > > Tam > > > > ________________________________ > From: Jeffrey > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2012 9:29 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Cam chain tension > > > > if you mean doohickey adjuster tension, you probably put a crimp in it so it probably won't adjust anymore unless you already upgraded to a stronger doohickey. > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Tam a'Rack]

Last time I encountered a bad diaphragm I became a daddy. :p Thanks for the input Jud. The "mechanic" that worked on the bike told me he had rebuilt the petcock and that he "finally got it right". Cause for worry right there... I have to replace the roof on my garage, last windstorm tore it up on me. Once I get that done I will get into the bike more. For now, I am going to check the easier things and save tearing into the carb for later. Good thing I have a spare DR650 to ride! hehe Tam ________________________________ From: Jud To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2012 5:40 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Cam chain tension Check that your carb diaphragm is intact. If not, you may be able to effect a temporary repair with electrical tape or RTV, but the real solution is a new diaphragm (a new slide, really, with diaphragm attached). Don't buy the Kawi part, which goes for something north of a hunnert bucks. The Harley Sportster part (before FI, sportsters used a CV40 carb very similar to the CVK 40 on the KLR) is closer to forty dollars. While you are on the subject of diaphragms, check the one in your petcock as well. A small tear may give the symptoms you describe. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[pdstreeter@mmm.com]

Jud posted:

>Check that your carb diaphragm is intact. If not, you may be able to

effect

>a temporary repair with electrical tape or RTV, but the real solution is a >new diaphragm (a new slide, really, with diaphragm attached). Don't buy

the

>Kawi part, which goes for something north of a hunnert bucks. The Harley >Sportster part (before FI, sportsters used a CV40 carb very similar to the >CVK 40 on the KLR) is closer to forty dollars.

I agree about the diaphram, you can check it without pulling the whole carb out of the bike. Another cheap and easy thing to check is for water in the gas, just drain the tank, put the gas in your truck and put fresh gas in the KLR. Paul Streeter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Quick simple checks also. Vacuum line to petcock - Inspect and the carb vent hose,Good time to add a "T" in line also. See FAQ Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tam a'Rack wrote: > > > > Last time I encountered a bad diaphragm I became a daddy. :p > > Thanks for the input Jud. > The "mechanic" that worked on the bike told me he had rebuilt the petcock and that he "finally got it right". > Cause for worry right there... > > I have to replace the roof on my garage, last windstorm tore it up on me. > Once I get that done I will get into the bike more. > > For now, I am going to check the easier things and save tearing into the carb for later. > Good thing I have a spare DR650 to ride! hehe > Tam > > > ________________________________ > From: Jud > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2012 5:40 PM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Cam chain tension > > > > Check that your carb diaphragm is intact. If not, you may be able to effect a temporary repair with electrical tape or RTV, but the real solution is a new diaphragm (a new slide, really, with diaphragm attached). Don't buy the Kawi part, which goes for something north of a hunnert bucks. The Harley Sportster part (before FI, sportsters used a CV40 carb very similar to the CVK 40 on the KLR) is closer to forty dollars. > > While you are on the subject of diaphragms, check the one in your petcock as well. A small tear may give the symptoms you describe. > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >