valve cover bolt question

[gwtexas]

I was cruising along today on an asphalt paved road at about 50mph when the road suddenly changed to a crushed rock surface. This is usually not a problem but this section of road appeared to have been recently re-rocked and lets just say they used plenty. In addition to the depth of the rock, the stuff seemed to be larger than normal. My questions arise from the fact that I feel lucky to be here tonight after my near meeting with the road surface due to my total lack of controlability. My tires are stock. Would a different tire help in this situation? Also, any recommended riding techniques for this sort of road surface? I just want to be prepared if it happens again. Thanks, Greg

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "gwtexas" wrote:

> > I was cruising along today on an asphalt paved road at about 50mph > when the road suddenly changed to a crushed rock surface. This is > usually not a problem but this section of road appeared to have been > recently re-rocked and lets just say they used plenty. In addition

to

> the depth of the rock, the stuff seemed to be larger than normal. My > questions arise from the fact that I feel lucky to be here tonight > after my near meeting with the road surface due to my total lack of > controlability. My tires are stock. Would a different tire help in > this situation? Also, any recommended riding techniques for this

sort

> of road surface? I just want to be prepared if it happens again. > > Thanks, > Greg >

Greg, You are being to hard on yourself by saying 'total lack of controllability.' It might have scared you, but you came out the other side. It would seem you did something right! You are not writing from a hospital room. 1) Keep your visual scan moving: in close, out ahead, in close, out ahead and that will give you some heads up--but mostly out ahead. Look where you want to go, not at what you want to avoid. 2) Be prepared to stand up on the pegs, (at a moments notice) and add rear brake slowly. Standing up on the pegs will lower the center of gravity and give you more control. Serrated foot pegs help here a lot maintaining your feet on the pegs when it gets dicey. You can now practice this in a vacant lot, gravel parking lot, or a Wal-Mart. Stand on the pegs, up shift, down shift, making circles of decreasing radius. CAUTION: Be very careful at low speeds, cutting circles and adding the front brake, your bike will spit you out quicker than you can read the word, CAUTION. 3) Others may comment as well, as to the 'how', but throttle is your friend...the real wheel is a giant gyroscope and as long as you keep it turning, its turning and you keeping your balance, the rear wheel wants to keep you going in a straight line (more or less--simplistic view). Keep the throttle up in the power band, (above 3000) down shift when you can, light touch on the rear brake, very light touch on the front brake (if at all in loose gravel)--and keep adding power as necessary. Adding power will cause the bike to 'right itself' (usually) and send it in a straight line...at least in theory. (YMMV) 4) Enroll in the Motorcycle Safety Foundation Basic and advanced course. 5) Go change the gas. revmaaatin.

[Alan L Henderson]

gwtexas wrote: this situation? Also, any recommended riding techniques for this sort

> of road surface? I just want to be prepared if it happens again. > > Thanks, > Greg > >

If that section of road is close, go back and practice riding in deep rock. If it's too far away try to find a gravel road that has alot of gravel on it and practice. Stay loose, if you can't stand you can still shift your weight around on the bike by leaning and sliding your butt around. When the late Gordon Jennings used to write about accidents he said that a fair percentage could have been avoided if the rider continued to ride instead of giving up. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa Plenty of gravel roads in Iowa!

[Bogdan Swider]

> > > gwtexas wrote: > this situation? Also, any recommended riding techniques for this sort >> > of road surface? I just want to be prepared if it happens again. >> > >> > Thanks, >> > Greg >> > >> > > > If that section of road is close, go back and practice riding in deep > rock. If it's too far away try to find a gravel road that has alot of > gravel on it and practice. Stay loose, if you can't stand you can still > shift your weight around on the bike by leaning and sliding your butt > around. When the late Gordon Jennings used to write about accidents he > said that a fair percentage could have been avoided if the rider > continued to ride instead of giving up. > > Alan Henderson A13 Iowa Plenty of gravel roads in Iowa! > > I ll go back to Greg s subject line...Tires? For years I insisting on > traveling over loose gravel on Avon Gripsters which don t have a very > aggressive tread. The rational was that I do long trips and wanted to be > familiar with the tires I d be traveling on when I d hit a dirt road in, say, > Baja. But we re limited in how we can control what we like and dislike. I > found myself hating traveling on somewhat loose gravel. When I mounted the > more aggressive Kenda 270s I then enjoyed gravel roads. I found a 270 rear and > Gripster front is a decent compromise. Alan is right...technique is important > but...so are tires. > > Bogdan > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Alan L Henderson wrote:

> > gwtexas wrote: > this situation? Also, any recommended riding techniques for this

sort

> > of road surface? I just want to be prepared if it happens again. > > > > Thanks, > > Greg > > > > > > If that section of road is close, go back and practice riding in

deep

> rock. If it's too far away try to find a gravel road that has alot

of

> gravel on it and practice. Stay loose, if you can't stand you can

still

> shift your weight around on the bike by leaning and sliding your

butt

> around. When the late Gordon Jennings used to write about accidents

he

> said that a fair percentage could have been avoided if the rider > continued to ride instead of giving up. > > Alan Henderson A13 Iowa Plenty of gravel roads in Iowa! >

To paraphrase Jennings, as quoted by Alan Henderson: "Keep your hands and feet busy until all violent motion stops." In aviation, (gallows humor) we describe the emergency procedures as an act to keep the pilot's hands and feet preoccupied while the aircraft carries him/her to the accident site. revmaaatin. rest easy, on duty--911 Careflight, Aberdeen, SD

[Don S]

The stock tires are virtually useless on gravel. Very good on pavement but scary in loose gravel. I've had similar experiences as you with the stock tires and to say the least, it's a pretty frightening event when it happens. I changed my rear tire to a Kenda K270 and the difference is like night and day. You still have to be cautious going into curves with deep gravel. Even with good dirt tires, the KLR is a handful to maintain control on loose gravel curves. Especially for lighter guys. I'm no expert and I don't have the confidence to gas it when the back tire starts to wash out on me. I usually become very attentive and reduce my speed as required. Loose gravel in a straight line isn't a problem with the K270. The stock Dunlops on the other hand were very squirmy. Get a K270 and go looking for gravel roads to practice on. gwtexas wrote: I was cruising along today on an asphalt paved road at about 50mph when the road suddenly changed to a crushed rock surface. This is usually not a problem but this section of road appeared to have been recently re-rocked and lets just say they used plenty. In addition to the depth of the rock, the stuff seemed to be larger than normal. My questions arise from the fact that I feel lucky to be here tonight after my near meeting with the road surface due to my total lack of controlability. My tires are stock. Would a different tire help in this situation? Also, any recommended riding techniques for this sort of road surface? I just want to be prepared if it happens again. Thanks, Greg --------------------------------- Never Miss an Email Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Don S]

The D606 is a fine tire. When I priced them here in Canada, I believe I was quoted $187.00 for one rear. That works out to be $120.00 more than the K270. So, I can buy three K270s for the price of one D606. I'm certain the D606 is much less costly in the States and probably elsewhere in Canada. I'd say the best price one would likely get in Canada would be around $120.00 for a rear. We get gouged pretty bad up here. I must question if the D606 is two to three times better than a K270 and would they wear as well. I've read they offer better pavement traction than a K270. Are they worth the difference? We get stiffed pretty bad up here for motorcycle and atv tires (and just about everything else). I priced out some atv tires the other day and for exactly the same tires, it was over twice the price in Canadian money to buy them here. I can have them shipped to the Ontario/Minnesota border and still pay less than half after clearing customs. I don't mind paying a premium to "buy Canadian". But more than twice the price? I think not. I will not support gouging and will gladly make the 40 mile round trip to the border. I bought my Mefos from Dual Star and have gotten into the habit of using US suppliers to buy most of my motorcycle and atv related things. Better selection and price. Ronald Criswell wrote: I like the Dunlop 606 for this kind of stuff. I also like the IRC GP1 and the Kenda 270's. Gravel, sand and mud can be scary on a KLR as it looks kinda like a dirt bike but has its limitations and you really begin to feel the weight if you are not used to it's moving around. It is 400 pounds gassed up which is heavy for this type stuff. but after you get used to it, it can be fun in this stuff (still scaring the crap out of you occasionally). Word to the wise .... don't let off the throttle ...... and Gripsters are not good for this kind of stuff. Criswell

On Jan 25, 2007, at 5:53 PM, Don S wrote: The stock tires are virtually useless on gravel. Very good on pavement but scary in loose gravel. I've had similar experiences as you with the stock tires and to say the least, it's a pretty frightening event when it happens. I changed my rear tire to a Kenda K270 and the difference is like night and day. You still have to be cautious going into curves with deep gravel. Even with good dirt tires, the KLR is a handful to maintain control on loose gravel curves. Especially for lighter guys. I'm no expert and I don't have the confidence to gas it when the back tire starts to wash out on me. I usually become very attentive and reduce my speed as required. Loose gravel in a straight line isn't a problem with the K270. The stock Dunlops on the other hand were very squirmy. Get a K270 and go looking for gravel roads to practice on. gwtexas wrote: I was cruising along today on an asphalt paved road at about 50mph when the road suddenly changed to a crushed rock surface. This is usually not a problem but this section of road appeared to have been recently re-rocked and lets just say they used plenty. In addition to the depth of the rock, the stuff seemed to be larger than normal. My questions arise from the fact that I feel lucky to be here tonight after my near meeting with the road surface due to my total lack of controlability. My tires are stock. Would a different tire help in this situation? Also, any recommended riding techniques for this sort of road surface? I just want to be prepared if it happens again. Thanks, Greg --------------------------------- Never Miss an Email Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] --------------------------------- Never miss an email again! Yahoo! Toolbar alerts you the instant new Mail arrives. Check it out. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Don S wrote:

> > The D606 is a fine tire. When I priced them here in Canada, I believe I was quoted

$187.00 for one rear. That works out to be $120.00 more than the K270. So, I can buy three K270s for the price of one D606. I'm certain the D606 is much less costly in the States and probably elsewhere in Canada. I'd say the best price one would likely get in Canada would be around $120.00 for a rear. We get gouged pretty bad up here. I must question if the D606 is two to three times better than a K270 and would they wear as well. I've read they offer better pavement traction than a K270. Are they worth the difference?

> > We get stiffed pretty bad up here for motorcycle and atv tires (and just about

everything else). I priced out some atv tires the other day and for exactly the same tires, it was over twice the price in Canadian money to buy them here. I can have them shipped to the Ontario/Minnesota border and still pay less than half after clearing customs. I don't mind paying a premium to "buy Canadian". But more than twice the price? I think not. I will not support gouging and will gladly make the 40 mile round trip to the border. I bought my Mefos from Dual Star and have gotten into the habit of using US suppliers to buy most of my motorcycle and atv related things. Better selection and price.

> >

I guess If I lived in Canada, I wouldn't like the Dunlops nearly as much as I do. A K270 has gone up to nearly $40 where I usually buy them. A D606 is about $60, about the same as a Karoo or MT21, but lasts 3 times as long as the Pirelli, and about twice as long as the Metzeler. The Dunlops do work better all around than the Kendas, but can't touch them for mileage.

[Ronald Criswell]

I like the Dunlop 606 for this kind of stuff. I also like the IRC GP1 and the Kenda 270's. Gravel, sand and mud can be scary on a KLR as it looks kinda like a dirt bike but has its limitations and you really begin to feel the weight if you are not used to it's moving around. It is 400 pounds gassed up which is heavy for this type stuff. but after you get used to it, it can be fun in this stuff (still scaring the crap out of you occasionally). Word to the wise .... don't let off the throttle ...... and Gripsters are not good for this kind of stuff. Criswell

On Jan 25, 2007, at 5:53 PM, Don S wrote: > The stock tires are virtually useless on gravel. Very good on > pavement but scary in loose gravel. I've had similar experiences as > you with the stock tires and to say the least, it's a pretty > frightening event when it happens. I changed my rear tire to a > Kenda K270 and the difference is like night and day. You still have > to be cautious going into curves with deep gravel. Even with good > dirt tires, the KLR is a handful to maintain control on loose > gravel curves. Especially for lighter guys. I'm no expert and I > don't have the confidence to gas it when the back tire starts to > wash out on me. I usually become very attentive and reduce my speed > as required. Loose gravel in a straight line isn't a problem with > the K270. The stock Dunlops on the other hand were very squirmy. > Get a K270 and go looking for gravel roads to practice on. > > gwtexas wrote: I was cruising along today on an > asphalt paved road at about 50mph > when the road suddenly changed to a crushed rock surface. This is > usually not a problem but this section of road appeared to have been > recently re-rocked and lets just say they used plenty. In addition to > the depth of the rock, the stuff seemed to be larger than normal. My > questions arise from the fact that I feel lucky to be here tonight > after my near meeting with the road surface due to my total lack of > controlability. My tires are stock. Would a different tire help in > this situation? Also, any recommended riding techniques for this sort > of road surface? I just want to be prepared if it happens again. > > Thanks, > Greg > > --------------------------------- > Never Miss an Email > Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Don S wrote:

> The stock tires are virtually useless on gravel.

Airing down, however, makes any tire much more controllable on gravel. The Kenda 761 is similar to the stock tires in ability and airing it down to around 15PSI made it much better on gravel.

> gwtexas wrote: > questions arise from the fact that I feel lucky to be here tonight > after my near meeting with the road surface due to my total lack of > controlability. My tires are stock. Would a different tire help in > this situation?

Your bike will squirm in gravel. That's the nature of the beast. Keep your speed up, grip the bars lightly so that they can respond to the road, and the gyroscopic effect of your tires will keep your KLR upright and heading straight, at least when you're going in a straight line. Most accidents are caused by people ceasing to ride or attempting to wrestle their bars like a steer, not by the bike just falling over out of the blue. If you're going straight and the bike is feeling unstable, give it more gas and you'll get more gyroscopic effect. I know this conflicts with the sphincter pucker that's saying "holy cr*p I need to slow down!" but that's the difference between 2 wheels and 4 wheels. (Note: Within reason! Obviously if you're going 45+mph on very loose gravel you're going too fast!). Curves, of course, are a different story, and getting around them on loose gravel can be interesting, but that's a topic for another story . _E