diaphram slide

[daniel_hamekasi]

hey all. been a while since I've posted. I'm looking to purchase a second rear wheel for my 2000 KLR650 for some serious off-roading. I would put a high-treaded tyre on it and then on weekends, when I want to go have fun, I'll simply switch wheels. I'm in Montreal Canada. thanks. Danny email is daniel_hamekasi@... or dhamekas@...

[RobertWichert]

KLRistas... How do you align the rear wheel? I have an '07. It has marks. I always used to use marks on my old bikes, but this one comes back from the shop with the marks not the same on both sides and when I make the marks the same, it seems to be too close to the chain. Any advice? Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 =============================================== ~-|**|PrettyHtmlEnd|**|-~ end group email --> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 08 Feb 2012 07:53:15 -0800 RobertWichert writes:

> KLRistas... > > How do you align the rear wheel? I have an '07. It has marks. I > always used to use marks on my old bikes, but this one comes back > from > the shop with the marks not the same on both sides and when I make > the > marks the same, it seems to be too close to the chain. > > Any advice? > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Robert, Haven't seen a response to your question from the other 8,000 plus forum members so I'll put forth something for consideration. I think it was Dave Jakeman (RIP) that made this suggestion to me back in 2004 in a long, enjoyable phone conversation. Get the rear wheel in the air so it can spin. Tighten the chain more than normal so the chain is snug. With a mirror look at the lower run of the chain where it contacts the rear sprocket. Slowly spin the rear wheel in the forward direction of travel and watch the chain and sprocket teeth interaction. If the wheel is properly aligned the teeth of the sprocket will be centered between the side plates of the chain. You want no contact with the side plates when the chain first touches the sprocket. Adjust the wheel until you get the sprocket tooth contact centered on the chain. I find it takes a few tries to make sure I'm looking at the correct area and with the correct angle. Once I'm positive I have the wheel correctly aligned I use a center punch and put a single mark on a flat of each adjuster nut. Then 180 degrees from the single punch mark I put two punch marks. From this point forward I absolutely never turn the nuts without counting the amount of turns and making sure I turn each nut the same as the other. I don't talk to people while doing this and I don't start if I don't think I can finish it without interruption. I always snug the locking nut against the marked adjusting nut so the adjusting nut doesn't get moved by accident. Once you've got the wheel aligned one time and the adjusting nuts marked you can easily keep the wheel aligned. Adjust your chain as normal just making sure you always turn both adjusting nuts the same amount. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f332196ef785acde35st05vuc

[folmonty]

Jeff - what's you take on this little tool by Motion Pro? The YouTube video also has a neat little tip on how to deal with any adjuster slack which occurs from time to time. http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0048/

> > Robert, > > Haven't seen a response to your question from the other 8,000 plus forum > members so I'll put forth something for consideration. > > I think it was Dave Jakeman (RIP) that made this suggestion to me back in > 2004 in a long, enjoyable phone conversation. > > Get the rear wheel in the air so it can spin. Tighten the chain more > than normal so the chain is snug. With a mirror look at the lower run of > the chain where it contacts the rear sprocket. Slowly spin the rear > wheel in the forward direction of travel and watch the chain and sprocket > teeth interaction. If the wheel is properly aligned the teeth of the > sprocket will be centered between the side plates of the chain. You want > no contact with the side plates when the chain first touches the > sprocket. Adjust the wheel until you get the sprocket tooth contact > centered on the chain. > > I find it takes a few tries to make sure I'm looking at the correct area > and with the correct angle. > > Once I'm positive I have the wheel correctly aligned I use a center punch > and put a single mark on a flat of each adjuster nut. Then 180 degrees > from the single punch mark I put two punch marks. From this point > forward I absolutely never turn the nuts without counting the amount of > turns and making sure I turn each nut the same as the other. I don't > talk to people while doing this and I don't start if I don't think I can > finish it without interruption. I always snug the locking nut against > the marked adjusting nut so the adjusting nut doesn't get moved by > accident. > > Once you've got the wheel aligned one time and the adjusting nuts marked > you can easily keep the wheel aligned. Adjust your chain as normal just > making sure you always turn both adjusting nuts the same amount. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650

[RobertWichert]

Thanks Jeff! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 2/8/2012 5:29 PM, Jeff Saline wrote: > On Wed, 08 Feb 2012 07:53:15 -0800 RobertWichert > writes: >> KLRistas... >> >> How do you align the rear wheel? I have an '07. It has marks. I >> always used to use marks on my old bikes, but this one comes back >> from >> the shop with the marks not the same on both sides and when I make >> the >> marks the same, it seems to be too close to the chain. >> >> Any advice? >> >> Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP > <><><><><><> > <><><><><><> > > Robert, > > Haven't seen a response to your question from the other 8,000 plus forum > members so I'll put forth something for consideration. > > I think it was Dave Jakeman (RIP) that made this suggestion to me back in > 2004 in a long, enjoyable phone conversation. > > Get the rear wheel in the air so it can spin. Tighten the chain more > than normal so the chain is snug. With a mirror look at the lower run of > the chain where it contacts the rear sprocket. Slowly spin the rear > wheel in the forward direction of travel and watch the chain and sprocket > teeth interaction. If the wheel is properly aligned the teeth of the > sprocket will be centered between the side plates of the chain. You want > no contact with the side plates when the chain first touches the > sprocket. Adjust the wheel until you get the sprocket tooth contact > centered on the chain. > > I find it takes a few tries to make sure I'm looking at the correct area > and with the correct angle. > > Once I'm positive I have the wheel correctly aligned I use a center punch > and put a single mark on a flat of each adjuster nut. Then 180 degrees > from the single punch mark I put two punch marks. From this point > forward I absolutely never turn the nuts without counting the amount of > turns and making sure I turn each nut the same as the other. I don't > talk to people while doing this and I don't start if I don't think I can > finish it without interruption. I always snug the locking nut against > the marked adjusting nut so the adjusting nut doesn't get moved by > accident. > > Once you've got the wheel aligned one time and the adjusting nuts marked > you can easily keep the wheel aligned. Adjust your chain as normal just > making sure you always turn both adjusting nuts the same amount. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > ____________________________________________________________ > 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 > The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f332196f36eeacce44st03vuc > > >

[Jeff Saline]

On Thu, 09 Feb 2012 16:02:24 -0000 "folmonty" writes:

> Jeff - what's you take on this little tool by Motion Pro? The > YouTube video also has a neat little tip on how to deal with any > adjuster slack which occurs from time to time. > > http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0048/ >

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> I suppose it could work. It looks like they show it on the upper run of the chain. I think the lower run is more important. Maybe it doesn't make a difference. I've never checked. I've also heard of guys taking a metal ruler and putting it against the side of the sprocket and along the run of the chain and trying to align that way. I think a guy should use what they like and then live with the results. : ) Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f3404a69cb8ee55adest02vuc

[Andrus]

I just happen to be looking though ebay and saw a carb slide for sale there at a big discount from what Kawasaki wants for it. What's sad, is that you can buy the same slide from Harley for in the 40 buck range. ;-(. That's where I bought the last two I needed. Many older Harleys used the same 40mm Carb. Andy in Jennings,La. An '00 KLR An '07 Bandit 1250s

[Jeffrey]

There is a similar tool with a laser and you can shoot it all the way up to the front sprocket. Far superior and it only costs 5 bucks more. The problem is you have to remove the chain guard. So it is a half hour not 5 mins. J#3

[dat brooklyn bum]

Why not just get one of these? http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=1C1AVSE_enUS449US449&q=magnetic+level+with+laser&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1600&bih=775&ix=sea&ion=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3981092735806554376&sa=X&ei=eJI1T8etLIry0gHkvrXlAg&ved=0CKcBEPMCMAQ da Vermonster (I uses my eyeballs and tries not to do it drunks)

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jeffrey" wrote: > > There is a similar tool with a laser and you can shoot it all the way up to the front sprocket. > > Far superior and it only costs 5 bucks more. > > The problem is you have to remove the chain guard. > So it is a half hour not 5 mins. > > J#3 >

[RobertWichert]

I actually had NO IDEA that the issue was the chain. I always thought it was rear wheel compared to front wheel. Live and learn! Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 2/10/2012 1:57 PM, dat brooklyn bum wrote: > > > Why not just get one of these? > > http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=1C1AVSE_enUS449US449&q=magnetic+level+with+laser&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1600&bih=775&ix=sea&ion=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3981092735806554376&sa=X&ei=eJI1T8etLIry0gHkvrXlAg&ved=0CKcBEPMCMAQ > http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&rlz=1C1AVSE_enUS449US449&q=magnetic+level+with+laser&gs_upl=&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&biw=1600&bih=775&ix=sea&ion=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3981092735806554376&sa=X&ei=eJI1T8etLIry0gHkvrXlAg&ved=0CKcBEPMCMAQ> > > da Vermonster (I uses my eyeballs and tries not to do it drunks) > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , "Jeffrey" > wrote: > > > > There is a similar tool with a laser and you can shoot it all the > way up to the front sprocket. > > > > Far superior and it only costs 5 bucks more. > > > > The problem is you have to remove the chain guard. > > So it is a half hour not 5 mins. > > > > J#3 > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]