conspicuity lights

[Ian Francisco]

I tried these and they were next to invisible in daylight. May not be legal in all states either. I didn't try the Emgo brand so they may be better. -- ian http://www.scarletfuries.com http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931 Re: Conspicuity light questions Posted by: "RobertWichert" robert@... robertwichert Mon Jan 9, 2012 11:47 am (PST) For a brake light, you can't get easier than this: http://www.bikebandit.com/emgo-led-taillight-bulbs?WT.mc_id=1484958&CAWELAID=846616307 It kind of "rotates" when brakes are not on. Very annoying. When brakes are applied, if flashes like crazy. Guaranteed to irritate cagers every time. REALLY gets their attention. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Dominick]

Howdy gents, I just wanted to first off say thanks to this forum I recently got the balls to open up my engine for the first time. After my (2009/12,000M) bike stopped running, with symptoms like losing sig. drops in rpms when revving above 3rpm and just stalling whenever trying to ride it, sometimes sounding like it wasn't getting enough gas and sometimes not enough air.... I tried all the easy suggestions from this forum, changing my oil, to changing my spark plug, to pulling off my carb and inspecting /cleaning it thoroughly with no results. Which to someone with no mechanical background seemed like a feat...then... Someone mentioned the next step was to check my valve tolerances. I finally bought the clymer manual and gauges to check my valve tolerances and with much hesitation pulled the top off my engine case and started to set to top dead center only to realize that I was way out of time and i noticed some metal shavings from when it jumped time....Even though this sucks, it was such a great feeling to be able to finally see/diagnosis the problem myself! So thanks for that!!! I couldnt have done it without this forum, ( well...and youtube) So I checked my tensioner which was at its maximum setting to provide the most tension... And now I am at a loss, since the kawasaki dealership explained that these chains very rarely stretch and it probably wasn't the chain guides either. Their suggestion was that maybe my chain tensioner was bad( bad spring?). In order for me to further diagnose I would have to open the bottom half of the engine correct? Which I was warned pretty adamantly was NO job for an amateur like myself. Especially since my tool set is pretty limited too. Any advice regarding the extent of a job like this, or if anyone has any extensive knowledge about timing chain problems I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks in advance and sorry if this is a redundant thread already covered. Dominick Ft. Bragg, NC

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 05:14:37 -0000 "Dominick" writes:

> Howdy gents, > > I just wanted to first off say thanks to this forum I recently got > the balls to open up my engine for the first time. After my > (2009/12,000M) bike stopped running, with symptoms like losing sig. > drops in rpms when revving above 3rpm and just stalling whenever > trying to ride it, sometimes sounding like it wasn't getting enough > gas and sometimes not enough air.... I tried all the easy > suggestions from this forum, changing my oil, to changing my spark > plug, to pulling off my carb and inspecting /cleaning it thoroughly > with no results. Which to someone with no mechanical background > seemed like a feat...then... Someone mentioned the next step was to > check my valve tolerances. I finally bought the clymer manual and > gauges to check my valve tolerances and with much hesitation pulled > the top off my engine case and started to set to top dead center > only to realize that I was way out of time and i noticed some metal > shavings from when it jumped time....Even though this sucks, it was > such a great feeling to be able to finally see/diagnosis the problem > myself! So thanks for that!!! I couldnt have done it without this > forum, ( well...and youtube) So I checked my tensioner which was at > its maximum setting to provide the most tension... And now I am at a > loss, since the kawasaki dealership explained that these chains very > rarely stretch and it probably wasn't the chain guides either. Their > suggestion was that maybe my chain tensioner was bad( bad spring?). > In order for me to further diagnose I would have to open the bottom > half of the engine correct? Which I was warned pretty adamantly was > NO job for an amateur like myself. Especially since my tool set is > pretty limited too. > > Any advice regarding the extent of a job like this, or if anyone has > any extensive knowledge about timing chain problems I would greatly > appreciate it! > > Thanks in advance and sorry if this is a redundant thread already > covered. > > Dominick > Ft. Bragg, NC

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Dominick, I'm gonna make a guess your timing didn't jump much if it jumped at all. The KLR engine is an interference engine meaning the valves will hit the pistons if out of time. That results in bent valves usually. I too have heard the chain rarely stretches and would guess the cam chain guides are worn before the chain is worn. I'm wondering if when you removed the cam chain tensioner you removed the center plug and spring before removing the two M6, 10mm headed bolts holding the tensioner to the cylinder. If you didn't, the tensioner would extend under spring pressure to it's full length. The engine is a four stroke cycle engine meaning the crankshaft must turn two complete revolutions for each single rotation of a camshaft. I'm wondering if you need to rotate the crankshaft one more revolution to get the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression stroke. NOTE*** Remember to reinstall the cam chain tensioner if you are going to rotate the engine. What did the metal shavings look like and where exactly did you find them? Here are some instructions from Wymanwinn on another KLR site. I think if you follow them you can verify your cams are in or out of time. <><><><><><> <><><><><><> Cam Installation/Timing Instructions -make certain the Lazy T and its timing mark are lined up in the upper window... -pull the cam chain up and keep tight (you may need to rock the crank CW and CCW to get the cam chain to free up) -install the exhaust cam onto the chain and onto the exhaust journals so the arrow faces forward and the two marks align with the valve cover gasket surface -install only the right side (smaller) exhaust cam journal cap (note the direction arrow), just snug the bolts -keeping the cam chain tight and NOT rotating the crank, install the right side intake cam onto the chain and journals so its arrow is pointing forward and opposite mark align with the valve cover gasket surface -install the right side intake (smaller) cam journal cap (note the direction arrow) , just snug the bolts. -now insert your right index finger into the cam chain tunnel pushing on the chain guide to keep the cam chain tight and rotate the crank with your left hand and with a 19mm deep socket CCW until both cam gear arrows and opposite marks align with the valve cover mating surface and confirm the Lazy T mark is in the upper window in the correct position...if not, recheck your cam chain to gear positions (there may be some minor deviations from exactly being lined up remember the crank turns twice as fast as the cams -if everything is timed properly, without moving the cams, install the cam chain tensioner body (69in/lbs) and the cam chain tensioner spring, copper washer and retainer (12ft/lbs) -install the cam chain guide, 55in/lbs on the small bolt with blue loctite, 69in/lbs on the long bolts -install the left side cam journal caps and oil feed tube BY HAND, NO tools to screw the bolts COMPLETELY down...making certain the caps properly seat onto the dowels and cams...DO NOT FORCE FIT THESE CAPS torque the cam cap bolts to 100in/lbs -reconfirm the cam timing one last time... -reinstall the valve cover, 55in/lbs -install starter/motor ground, 69in/lbs -install the carb, enricher valve, throttle cables, vent tube... -install upper motor mounts, 18ft/lbs (note, pre-08 the harness runs through the mount plates, 08+ to the left) -install exhaust header with new crush gasket, 15ft/lbs on acorn nuts FIRST, 18ft/lbs on middle hanger bolt, 15ft/lbs on muffler to header pipe pinch bolt -install fuel tank and connect related hoses <><><><><><> <><><><><><> Hope this is helpful for you. Make sure you only turn the crankshaft in a counterclockwise direction. That keeps the valve train moving in the correct direction as it will when the engine is running. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ LifeLock Official Site Purchase the Ultimate Plan and Stay Safe with Top-Rated Protection. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f0d20ac3e8e2137f289st03vuc

[Jeffrey]

"I'm wondering if when you removed the cam chain tensioner you removed the center plug and spring before removing the two M6, 10mm headed bolts holding the tensioner to the cylinder. If you didn't, the tensioner would extend under spring pressure to it's full length." ??? I don't get what you are trying to say. Taking off the two bolts ie the whole tensioner will release the tension. So will taking out the center plug. And if the tensioner extends out to its full length? It can only extend as much as it can ie as much pressure as the spring can push against the tensioner against the timing chain... J#3

[Jeffrey]

I think you meant to say-- you are supposed to compress the tensioner by releasing the catch and pushing in to its shortest position and bolt it on the cylinder before sticking in the spring and then the springs 12mm holder/with copper washer. But, how would it change the cam timing? It would just put too much pressure on the chain...which could wear/stretch it. J#3

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 23:03:29 -0000 "Jeffrey" writes:

> "I'm wondering if when you removed the cam chain tensioner you > removed the center plug and spring before removing the two M6, 10mm > headed bolts > holding the tensioner to the cylinder. If you didn't, the tensioner > would extend under spring pressure to it's full length." > > ??? > > I don't get what you are trying to say. Taking off the two bolts ie > the whole tensioner will release the tension. So will taking out > the center plug. > > And if the tensioner extends out to its full length? It can only > extend as much as it can ie as much pressure as the spring can push > against the tensioner against the timing chain... > > J#3

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> J#3, You are right on the money in that the tension will be released either way you remove it. But only one way is correct and that is removing the center plug and spring first and then the two M6 bolts. What Dominick noticed was the tensioner he removed was fully extended and he now is wondering if he's got cam chain issues. Without knowing how he removed the tensioner he could have issues or he could have improperly removed the tensioner which fully extended in the removal process. Three reasons to make sure the tensioner is properly removed are: - releasing spring pressure allows the two bolts holding the tensioner body to the cylinder to be removed fully without stressing the last thread or two. - you can check the cam tensioner extension and see how much it's moving since the last time it was removed or compare it's extension to engine life. - it's much easier to remove the center plug when the tensioner body is fully attached to the cylinder. Hope this explains why I think it's important to properly remove the tensioner from the cylinder. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4f0e2a3f714dd13d5e08st04vuc