waterproof gps

[vospertw]

I didn't get a chance to do any troubleshooting as I had to get to work, but here's the skinny: A14 with new battery, been running like a champ. Went to start this morning, bike was in neutral, kickstand down, clutch disengaged. Pressed the starter and got a split second crank, then nothing. Both neutral and highbeam indicator lights went out and will not come back on with key in "on" position. Seems to me like the bike is acting like the kill switch is still in the "off" position. Any ideas? Thanks!

[Glenn]

If the lights went out it's purely electrical. Undo your battery connectors, clean them, and retighten. It's probably just a loose connection. Check the battery with a volt meter, or hook it up directly to another 12v source (like your car). Just make sure the engine of your car is OFF as the alternator will put way too much juice through those jumper cables.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "vospertw" wrote: > > I didn't get a chance to do any troubleshooting as I had to get to > work, but here's the skinny: > > A14 with new battery, been running like a champ. Went to start this > morning, bike was in neutral, kickstand down, clutch disengaged. > Pressed the starter and got a split second crank, then nothing. Both > neutral and highbeam indicator lights went out and will not come back > on with key in "on" position. Seems to me like the bike is acting like > the kill switch is still in the "off" position. Any ideas? Thanks! >

[Blake Sobiloff]

On Nov 18, 2005, at 7:27 AM, vospertw wrote:

> Went to start this > morning, bike was in neutral, kickstand down, clutch disengaged. > Pressed the starter and got a split second crank, then nothing. Both > neutral and highbeam indicator lights went out and will not come back > on with key in "on" position.

I hate to be happy at someone else's misfortune, but "yea!" I've had the same darn thing happen to me and I couldn't figure out for sure what the problem was. I was trying to leave my girlfriend's place and go back home, all suited up and ready to ride. Hit the starter, hear a very short crank, and *poof* the headlight and indicator lights went out and it seemed like the bike was dead. Grumpy girlfriend has to drive me home late at night. I figured I'd blown the main fuse, but the next day when I was trying to fix it the fuse was fine. In fact, the lights came back on when I turned the key, even though the engine still wouldn't crank. I took the cover off of the starter relay, cleaned up the molex connector and put some dielectric grease on it, and the bike would crank again. That's been around six months ago that I did that "fix" and the symptoms haven't come back. But, I still don't understand why all the lights went out initially, or what made them functional by morning. And that annoys me. -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[Mike Peplinski]

Electrical problems are real funny. They never go away, they just get evasive. If you don't find them, they come back to haunt you. I had my airhead go dead in the middle of a trip, wiggled the wires and off we went. It happened again, and wiggle the wires, off we go. Then it happened. Half way to B.F.Iowa, went dead and wiggling the wires did nothing. tugging did nothing and cussing didn't heop either. A bit of logic and the main fuse diagram located the problem to a corroded main lug. Ini your case you may have found the culprit. I've had a similar jproblem but traced it to a bumped safety switch.

>From: Blake Sobiloff >To: "vospertw" >CC: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Problem Starting >Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 08:08:00 -0800 > >On Nov 18, 2005, at 7:27 AM, vospertw wrote: > > Went to start this > > morning, bike was in neutral, kickstand down, clutch disengaged. > > Pressed the starter and got a split second crank, then nothing. Both > > neutral and highbeam indicator lights went out and will not come back > > on with key in "on" position. > >I hate to be happy at someone else's misfortune, but "yea!" I've had >the same darn thing happen to me and I couldn't figure out for sure >what the problem was. I was trying to leave my girlfriend's place and >go back home, all suited up and ready to ride. Hit the starter, hear >a very short crank, and *poof* the headlight and indicator lights >went out and it seemed like the bike was dead. Grumpy girlfriend has >to drive me home late at night. > >I figured I'd blown the main fuse, but the next day when I was trying >to fix it the fuse was fine. In fact, the lights came back on when I >turned the key, even though the engine still wouldn't crank. I took >the cover off of the starter relay, cleaned up the molex connector >and put some dielectric grease on it, and the bike would crank again. > >That's been around six months ago that I did that "fix" and the >symptoms haven't come back. But, I still don't understand why all the >lights went out initially, or what made them functional by morning. >And that annoys me. >-- >Blake Sobiloff >http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> >San Jose, CA (USA) > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[vospertw]

Thanks for the help, folks. Always start with the easiest solution, right? Sure enough, positive terminal connection to the battery was loose. Wish I would have thought of that this morning... lost a nice day to ride to work. Todd --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski" wrote:

> > Electrical problems are real funny. They never go away, they just

get

> evasive. If you don't find them, they come back to haunt you. I

had my

> airhead go dead in the middle of a trip, wiggled the wires and off

we went.

> It happened again, and wiggle the wires, off we go. Then it

happened. Half

> way to B.F.Iowa, went dead and wiggling the wires did nothing.

tugging did

> nothing and cussing didn't heop either. A bit of logic and the

main fuse

> diagram located the problem to a corroded main lug. Ini your case

you may

> have found the culprit. I've had a similar jproblem but traced it

to a

> bumped safety switch. > > > >From: Blake Sobiloff > >To: "vospertw" > >CC: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > >Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Problem Starting > >Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 08:08:00 -0800 > > > >On Nov 18, 2005, at 7:27 AM, vospertw wrote: > > > Went to start this > > > morning, bike was in neutral, kickstand down, clutch

disengaged.

> > > Pressed the starter and got a split second crank, then

nothing. Both

> > > neutral and highbeam indicator lights went out and will not

come back

> > > on with key in "on" position. > > > >I hate to be happy at someone else's misfortune, but "yea!" I've

had

> >the same darn thing happen to me and I couldn't figure out for

sure

> >what the problem was. I was trying to leave my girlfriend's place

and

> >go back home, all suited up and ready to ride. Hit the starter,

hear

> >a very short crank, and *poof* the headlight and indicator lights > >went out and it seemed like the bike was dead. Grumpy girlfriend

has

> >to drive me home late at night. > > > >I figured I'd blown the main fuse, but the next day when I was

trying

> >to fix it the fuse was fine. In fact, the lights came back on

when I

> >turned the key, even though the engine still wouldn't crank. I

took

> >the cover off of the starter relay, cleaned up the molex connector > >and put some dielectric grease on it, and the bike would crank

again.

> > > >That's been around six months ago that I did that "fix" and the > >symptoms haven't come back. But, I still don't understand why all

the

> >lights went out initially, or what made them functional by

morning.

> >And that annoys me. > >-- > >Blake Sobiloff > >http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> > >San Jose, CA (USA) > > > > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: > >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > >

[Glenn]

Remember, the fuse under the seat is for the headlight .. the bike will still run and function properly. If your lights and going on and off and your starter just clicks check the battery terminals and then check the solenoid and you grounds.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "vospertw" wrote: > > Thanks for the help, folks. Always start with the easiest solution, > right? Sure enough, positive terminal connection to the battery was > loose. Wish I would have thought of that this morning... lost a nice > day to ride to work. > > Todd > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Peplinski" > wrote: > > > > Electrical problems are real funny. They never go away, they just > get > > evasive. If you don't find them, they come back to haunt you. I > had my > > airhead go dead in the middle of a trip, wiggled the wires and off > we went. > > It happened again, and wiggle the wires, off we go. Then it > happened. Half > > way to B.F.Iowa, went dead and wiggling the wires did nothing. > tugging did > > nothing and cussing didn't heop either. A bit of logic and the > main fuse > > diagram located the problem to a corroded main lug. Ini your case > you may > > have found the culprit. I've had a similar jproblem but traced it > to a > > bumped safety switch. > > > > > > >From: Blake Sobiloff > > >To: "vospertw" > > >CC: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > >Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Problem Starting > > >Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 08:08:00 -0800 > > > > > >On Nov 18, 2005, at 7:27 AM, vospertw wrote: > > > > Went to start this > > > > morning, bike was in neutral, kickstand down, clutch > disengaged. > > > > Pressed the starter and got a split second crank, then > nothing. Both > > > > neutral and highbeam indicator lights went out and will not > come back > > > > on with key in "on" position. > > > > > >I hate to be happy at someone else's misfortune, but "yea!" I've > had > > >the same darn thing happen to me and I couldn't figure out for > sure > > >what the problem was. I was trying to leave my girlfriend's place > and > > >go back home, all suited up and ready to ride. Hit the starter, > hear > > >a very short crank, and *poof* the headlight and indicator lights > > >went out and it seemed like the bike was dead. Grumpy girlfriend > has > > >to drive me home late at night. > > > > > >I figured I'd blown the main fuse, but the next day when I was > trying > > >to fix it the fuse was fine. In fact, the lights came back on > when I > > >turned the key, even though the engine still wouldn't crank. I > took > > >the cover off of the starter relay, cleaned up the molex connector > > >and put some dielectric grease on it, and the bike would crank > again. > > > > > >That's been around six months ago that I did that "fix" and the > > >symptoms haven't come back. But, I still don't understand why all > the > > >lights went out initially, or what made them functional by > morning. > > >And that annoys me. > > >-- > > >Blake Sobiloff > > >http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> > > >San Jose, CA (USA) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: > > >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

[Jeff Saline]

Glenn, You made a comment about making sure the engine of the car is off as the alternator will put way to much juice through the jumper cables. I agree with the make sure the engine is off part but I believe you are incorrect about the reason. The cables will handle everything the alternator will put out and way more. The vehicle being jumped will only take what it requires. The reason to have the engine of the jumping vehicle off is to keep from frying electrics in either vehicle. The battery of the jumping vehicle if in good condition will have all the power required to start the jumped vehicle and then start the jumping vehicle once the cables are disconnected. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 15:38:11 -0000 "Glenn" writes:

> If the lights went out it's purely electrical. Undo your battery > connectors, clean them, and retighten. It's probably just a loose > connection. > > Check the battery with a volt meter, or hook it up directly to > another > 12v source (like your car). Just make sure the engine of your car is > > OFF as the alternator will put way too much juice through those > jumper > cables. > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "vospertw" > wrote: > > > > I didn't get a chance to do any troubleshooting as I had to get to > > > work, but here's the skinny: > > > > A14 with new battery, been running like a champ. Went to start > this > > morning, bike was in neutral, kickstand down, clutch disengaged. > > Pressed the starter and got a split second crank, then nothing. > Both > > neutral and highbeam indicator lights went out and will not come > back > > on with key in "on" position. Seems to me like the bike is acting > > like > > the kill switch is still in the "off" position. Any ideas? > Thanks! > > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > >

[Glenn]

That's precisley what I meant, just not in so many words. 'through the cables' to the charging system potentially causing damage. A direct jump from the battery with the engine off is the only safe way to do it. When a bike is "jumped" by a car and the engine is left running the rectifier/regulator on the bike will begin to heat up from all the excessive current and that could very easily fry it if connected for more than a few seconds.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > Glenn, > > You made a comment about making sure the engine of the car is off as the > alternator will put way to much juice through the jumper cables. I agree > with the make sure the engine is off part but I believe you are incorrect > about the reason. The cables will handle everything the alternator will > put out and way more. The vehicle being jumped will only take what it > requires. The reason to have the engine of the jumping vehicle off is to > keep from frying electrics in either vehicle. The battery of the jumping > vehicle if in good condition will have all the power required to start > the jumped vehicle and then start the jumping vehicle once the cables are > disconnected. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > On Fri, 18 Nov 2005 15:38:11 -0000 "Glenn" writes: > > If the lights went out it's purely electrical. Undo your battery > > connectors, clean them, and retighten. It's probably just a loose > > connection. > > > > Check the battery with a volt meter, or hook it up directly to > > another > > 12v source (like your car). Just make sure the engine of your car is > > > > OFF as the alternator will put way too much juice through those > > jumper > > cables. > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "vospertw" > > wrote: > > > > > > I didn't get a chance to do any troubleshooting as I had to get to > > > > > work, but here's the skinny: > > > > > > A14 with new battery, been running like a champ. Went to start > > this > > > morning, bike was in neutral, kickstand down, clutch disengaged. > > > Pressed the starter and got a split second crank, then nothing. > > Both > > > neutral and highbeam indicator lights went out and will not come > > back > > > on with key in "on" position. Seems to me like the bike is acting > > > > like > > > the kill switch is still in the "off" position. Any ideas? > > Thanks! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: > > http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >

[marshall]

I just acquired my dad's KLR and it won't start unless it is in neutral and the clutch is disengaged. Is there a faulty switch somewhere that is preventing the bike from starting when the bike is in gear and the clutch is engaged? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Marshall

[Doug Herr]

On Mon, 27 Mar 2006, Marshall wrote:

> I just acquired my dad's KLR and it won't start unless it is in > neutral and the clutch is disengaged. Is there a faulty switch > somewhere that is preventing the bike from starting when the bike is > in gear and the clutch is engaged? Any help would be appreciated.

This tells you how to bypass the kickstand safety: http://www.klr650.marknet.us/safetyswitch.html You may also be able to fix it by adjusting the SPDT switch at the base of the clutch lever. -- Doug Herr doug@...