left radiator shroud decal for 2000 klr650

[navyboy652002]

Ok, just to start this off I have done a lot of searching and reading on this problem but it has been over several months and I think I am at a point where I may have too much info in my head, or more likely have confused myself. What I have 2000 KLR650 (think it might be a CA version with the emissions removed(not by me)) Has about 11-12000 mi. About 2-3,000 miles ago I rejetted it with a dynojet kit(came with 2 adjustments, went with the lower-less performance), added an Adjustable Fuel/Air Mixture Screw (like this one http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/AirAdjustingScrew.html) and I put in a new air cut off valve (had popping on decel). After this work bike ran great! Oh and I do have an inline fuel filter. No fast forward to this summer. I rode the bike as much as I could to and from work. As the summer went on and into fall I noticed it was getting harder to start the bike, not sure if it was temperature related. Just before we got snow it was getting really hard to start, I tried the choke but didn't seam to make a difference? Usually would take about 10 mins to get it to run/start. What I have done. I have run carb cleaner (thru the tank type/gas additive) cleaned the air filter, tried a new plug std temp. Just yesterday I took out the choke plunger, it was intact and appeared to be ok. I sprayed out the choke assembly. However still took 10 mins to start (was cold 40f?) Once it was running I checked for air leaks with carb cleaner and didn't detect any? But when messing with the throttle I noticed that when I would rev it up to 2500rpm's and hold the bike would stay there but then soon would rev by itself to around 3500rpm's and fluctuate even though I had not added any more throttle from the 2500rmp's??? (this in new as before all I had was hard start other wise it ran fine and rode great?) So obvioulsy something is wrong? Now I am leaning toward the carb with the rev-ing problem? Is it the diaphram? Prior to the rev problem would a diaphram cause the hard start? I read that some were having problems with the decompression causing hard starts? What about cold temps needing a hotter plug to start. So if your still with me after all that, you can see I need some advice! And I would appreciate some! Please post a reply or e-mail me direct if you like to seth@... (note, I get the digest version daily) Thanks, Seth

[Fred Hink]

Sounds like you may have a plugged or partially plugged pilot jet. The pilot jet and the air screw are the parts of your carburetor that adjust and feed fuel for starting and idling up to about 1/4 throttle position. The diaphragm is for raising the slide and has nothing really to do with metering fuel. The slide, needle and needle jet adjust fuel for the midrange. (1/4 throttle to 3/4 open) I would never add any additives to your fuel that isn t safe for the o-rings and seals in your carb. You may have created a lot of other problems by doing this. It sounds like you have a lean condition and the hard starting and high idle or surging would indicate this. The heat range of your spark plug is the operating temperature of the electrodes on the plug. If you run a plug that is too cold, it could build up deposits on the electrodes and that would effect the performance of your engine. If the plug is too hot, it will burn the electrodes and could also burn your piston. I d recommend a new NGK DPR8EA-9 or the Iridium DPR8EIX-9. I d start by checking your pilot jet and the air screw setting. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: navyboy652002 Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 1:59 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Hard Starting/Carb Prob? Ok, just to start this off I have done a lot of searching and reading on this problem but it has been over several months and I think I am at a point where I may have too much info in my head, or more likely have confused myself. What I have 2000 KLR650 (think it might be a CA version with the emissions removed(not by me)) Has about 11-12000 mi. About 2-3,000 miles ago I rejetted it with a dynojet kit(came with 2 adjustments, went with the lower-less performance), added an Adjustable Fuel/Air Mixture Screw (like this one http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/AirAdjustingScrew.html) and I put in a new air cut off valve (had popping on decel). After this work bike ran great! Oh and I do have an inline fuel filter. No fast forward to this summer. I rode the bike as much as I could to and from work. As the summer went on and into fall I noticed it was getting harder to start the bike, not sure if it was temperature related. Just before we got snow it was getting really hard to start, I tried the choke but didn't seam to make a difference? Usually would take about 10 mins to get it to run/start. What I have done. I have run carb cleaner (thru the tank type/gas additive) cleaned the air filter, tried a new plug std temp. Just yesterday I took out the choke plunger, it was intact and appeared to be ok. I sprayed out the choke assembly. However still took 10 mins to start (was cold 40f?) Once it was running I checked for air leaks with carb cleaner and didn't detect any? But when messing with the throttle I noticed that when I would rev it up to 2500rpm's and hold the bike would stay there but then soon would rev by itself to around 3500rpm's and fluctuate even though I had not added any more throttle from the 2500rmp's??? (this in new as before all I had was hard start other wise it ran fine and rode great?) So obvioulsy something is wrong? Now I am leaning toward the carb with the rev-ing problem? Is it the diaphram? Prior to the rev problem would a diaphram cause the hard start? I read that some were having problems with the decompression causing hard starts? What about cold temps needing a hotter plug to start. So if your still with me after all that, you can see I need some advice! And I would appreciate some! Please post a reply or e-mail me direct if you like to mailto:seth%40gfire.us (note, I get the digest version daily) Thanks, Seth [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[salinej1@juno.com]

On Mon, 31 Jan 2011 20:59:07 -0000 "navyboy652002" writes:

> Ok, just to start this off I have done a lot of searching and reading > on this problem but it has been over several months and I think I am > at a point where I may have too much info in my head, or more likely > have confused myself.

SNIP

> So if your still with me after all that, you can see I need some > advice! And I would appreciate some! Please post a reply or e-mail > me direct if you like to seth@... (note, I get the digest > version daily) > > Thanks, Seth

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Seth, I suppose you could have an idle jet issue like Fred suggests. But I think my first look would be at the valves. Unless I missed it, it sounds like the valves have never been adjusted. If I was working on your bike I'd check the valves and adjust them to the max spec. After that I'd see what happens and evaluate what needs to happen. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . ____________________________________________________________ When Banks Compete, You Win! Refi & lower payments today: $400,000 for only $1,687/mo. No SSN required. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d472f7ea257b1af1est04vuc

[Mike Huber]

Seth, Have you checked the spark...I've got a friend with a Yamaha that had the same hardstart problem and it had a bad coil....Replaced it and now it starts fine. Mike Huber Carlsbad, NM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: seth@... Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 20:59:07 +0000 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Hard Starting/Carb Prob? Ok, just to start this off I have done a lot of searching and reading on this problem but it has been over several months and I think I am at a point where I may have too much info in my head, or more likely have confused myself. What I have 2000 KLR650 (think it might be a CA version with the emissions removed(not by me)) Has about 11-12000 mi. About 2-3,000 miles ago I rejetted it with a dynojet kit(came with 2 adjustments, went with the lower-less performance), added an Adjustable Fuel/Air Mixture Screw (like this one http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/AirAdjustingScrew.html) and I put in a new air cut off valve (had popping on decel). After this work bike ran great! Oh and I do have an inline fuel filter. No fast forward to this summer. I rode the bike as much as I could to and from work. As the summer went on and into fall I noticed it was getting harder to start the bike, not sure if it was temperature related. Just before we got snow it was getting really hard to start, I tried the choke but didn't seam to make a difference? Usually would take about 10 mins to get it to run/start. What I have done. I have run carb cleaner (thru the tank type/gas additive) cleaned the air filter, tried a new plug std temp. Just yesterday I took out the choke plunger, it was intact and appeared to be ok. I sprayed out the choke assembly. However still took 10 mins to start (was cold 40f?) Once it was running I checked for air leaks with carb cleaner and didn't detect any? But when messing with the throttle I noticed that when I would rev it up to 2500rpm's and hold the bike would stay there but then soon would rev by itself to around 3500rpm's and fluctuate even though I had not added any more throttle from the 2500rmp's??? (this in new as before all I had was hard start other wise it ran fine and rode great?) So obvioulsy something is wrong? Now I am leaning toward the carb with the rev-ing problem? Is it the diaphram? Prior to the rev problem would a diaphram cause the hard start? I read that some were having problems with the decompression causing hard starts? What about cold temps needing a hotter plug to start. So if your still with me after all that, you can see I need some advice! And I would appreciate some! Please post a reply or e-mail me direct if you like to seth@... (note, I get the digest version daily) Thanks, Seth [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bob K]

Yea...a weak coil will also cause a high rpm miss. Bob

> To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > From: minoman59@... > Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 15:13:01 -0700 > Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > > Seth, > Have you checked the spark...I've got a friend with a Yamaha that had the same hardstart problem and it had a bad coil....Replaced it and now it starts fine. > > Mike Huber > Carlsbad, NM > > > > > > > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > From: seth@... > Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 20:59:07 +0000 > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > > > > > Ok, just to start this off I have done a lot of searching and reading on this problem but it has been over several months and I think I am at a point where I may have too much info in my head, or more likely have confused myself. > > What I have 2000 KLR650 (think it might be a CA version with the emissions removed(not by me)) Has about 11-12000 mi. About 2-3,000 miles ago I rejetted it with a dynojet kit(came with 2 adjustments, went with the lower-less performance), added an Adjustable Fuel/Air Mixture Screw (like this one http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/AirAdjustingScrew.html) and I put in a new air cut off valve (had popping on decel). > After this work bike ran great! Oh and I do have an inline fuel filter. > > No fast forward to this summer. I rode the bike as much as I could to and from work. As the summer went on and into fall I noticed it was getting harder to start the bike, not sure if it was temperature related. Just before we got snow it was getting really hard to start, I tried the choke but didn't seam to make a difference? Usually would take about 10 mins to get it to run/start. > > What I have done. I have run carb cleaner (thru the tank type/gas additive) cleaned the air filter, tried a new plug std temp. Just yesterday I took out the choke plunger, it was intact and appeared to be ok. I sprayed out the choke assembly. However still took 10 mins to start (was cold 40f?) Once it was running I checked for air leaks with carb cleaner and didn't detect any? But when messing with the throttle I noticed that when I would rev it up to 2500rpm's and hold the bike would stay there but then soon would rev by itself to around 3500rpm's and fluctuate even though I had not added any more throttle from the 2500rmp's??? (this in new as before all I had was hard start other wise it ran fine and rode great?) > > So obvioulsy something is wrong? Now I am leaning toward the carb with the rev-ing problem? Is it the diaphram? Prior to the rev problem would a diaphram cause the hard start? I read that some were having problems with the decompression causing hard starts? What about cold temps needing a hotter plug to start. > > So if your still with me after all that, you can see I need some advice! And I would appreciate some! Please post a reply or e-mail me direct if you like to seth@... (note, I get the digest version daily) > > Thanks, Seth > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com > Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map > Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links > > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bob K]

Yea...a weak coil will also cause a high rpm miss. Bob

> To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > From: minoman59@... > Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 15:13:01 -0700 > Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > > Seth, > Have you checked the spark...I've got a friend with a Yamaha that had the same hardstart problem and it had a bad coil....Replaced it and now it starts fine. > > Mike Huber > Carlsbad, NM > > > > > > > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > From: seth@... > Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 20:59:07 +0000 > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Hard Starting/Carb Prob? > > > > > > > Ok, just to start this off I have done a lot of searching and reading on this problem but it has been over several months and I think I am at a point where I may have too much info in my head, or more likely have confused myself. > > What I have 2000 KLR650 (think it might be a CA version with the emissions removed(not by me)) Has about 11-12000 mi. About 2-3,000 miles ago I rejetted it with a dynojet kit(came with 2 adjustments, went with the lower-less performance), added an Adjustable Fuel/Air Mixture Screw (like this one http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/AirAdjustingScrew.html) and I put in a new air cut off valve (had popping on decel). > After this work bike ran great! Oh and I do have an inline fuel filter. > > No fast forward to this summer. I rode the bike as much as I could to and from work. As the summer went on and into fall I noticed it was getting harder to start the bike, not sure if it was temperature related. Just before we got snow it was getting really hard to start, I tried the choke but didn't seam to make a difference? Usually would take about 10 mins to get it to run/start. > > What I have done. I have run carb cleaner (thru the tank type/gas additive) cleaned the air filter, tried a new plug std temp. Just yesterday I took out the choke plunger, it was intact and appeared to be ok. I sprayed out the choke assembly. However still took 10 mins to start (was cold 40f?) Once it was running I checked for air leaks with carb cleaner and didn't detect any? But when messing with the throttle I noticed that when I would rev it up to 2500rpm's and hold the bike would stay there but then soon would rev by itself to around 3500rpm's and fluctuate even though I had not added any more throttle from the 2500rmp's??? (this in new as before all I had was hard start other wise it ran fine and rode great?) > > So obvioulsy something is wrong? Now I am leaning toward the carb with the rev-ing problem? Is it the diaphram? Prior to the rev problem would a diaphram cause the hard start? I read that some were having problems with the decompression causing hard starts? What about cold temps needing a hotter plug to start. > > So if your still with me after all that, you can see I need some advice! And I would appreciate some! Please post a reply or e-mail me direct if you like to seth@... (note, I get the digest version daily) > > Thanks, Seth > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com > Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map > Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links > > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[navyboy652002]

Hey all thanks for you replies and suggestions, to keep from multiple replys I'll reply to you each by name! Fred, I justed pulled the carb out to see if there was anything pluged as you suggested. I sprayed into every thing and the carb was already very clean! I am not sure but the pilot jet may hav been pluged as I sprayed into it wile in the carb and didn't seem like it was going anywhere but abter I took it out I sprayed the pilot jet out and in to its hole and the carb cleaner went thru, Just need to test it with the jet back in. As for the plug I was running a Iridium DPR8EIX-9. As for the air setting I was running it at about 2.5-2.75 turns which I thought was right around stock? Jeff Saline, I did the valves roughly about the same time I did the dynojet kit, so about 2-3K ago. Do you think it is worth another check so soon??? Mike Huber, I have not really looked into spark, I know I am getting some. How would one check to see if I am getting enough? Bob, Don't think I am getting a high speed miss? Last time I rode it (nov-oct) once I got it running it seem to run fine thru all normal rpm's. Thanks again all for your help and suggestions.My aim is to get the carb back togeather and on tommorrow after work and see if it is any better? Seth

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > Sounds like you may have a plugged or partially plugged pilot jet. The pilot jet and the air screw are the parts of your carburetor that adjust and feed fuel for starting and idling up to about 1/4 throttle position. The diaphragm is for raising the slide and has nothing really to do with metering fuel. The slide, needle and needle jet adjust fuel for the midrange. (1/4 throttle to 3/4 open) I would never add any additives to your fuel that isn t safe for the o-rings and seals in your carb. You may have created a lot of other problems by doing this. It sounds like you have a lean condition and the hard starting and high idle or surging would indicate this. The heat range of your spark plug is the operating temperature of the electrodes on the plug. If you run a plug that is too cold, it could build up deposits on the electrodes and that would effect the performance of your engine. If the plug is too hot, it will burn the electrodes and could also burn your piston. I d recommend a new NGK DPR8EA-9 or the Iridium DPR8EIX-9. I d start by checking your pilot jet and the air screw setting. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > >

[salinej1@juno.com]

On Tue, 01 Feb 2011 02:46:35 -0000 "navyboy652002" writes:

> Hey all thanks for you replies and suggestions, to keep from multiple > replys I'll reply to you each by name!

SNIP

> Jeff Saline, > I did the valves roughly about the same time I did the dynojet kit, > so about 2-3K ago. Do you think it is worth another check so > soon???

SNIP

> Thanks again all for your help and suggestions.My aim is to get the > carb back togeather and on tomorrow after work and see if it is any > better? > Seth

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Seth, If you set the valves to max specs within the last 3K smiles they are probably fine. If you didn't set them to max it's probably worth taking another look and adjusting them. May I suggest you try starting it with the air filter door and air filter off. If it doesn't start immediately try cranking it and spraying some WD-40 into the air box. If it starts it's probably a fuel issue. If it makes no difference it's maybe something else. : ) Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . ____________________________________________________________ 1 Simple Form: Up to 4 Offers! Refi to low APR before rates rise. $200,000 for $857/mo. No SSN required. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d477d333289233911st05vuc

[Fred Hink]

The only part in the carb that absolutely has to be clean is the orifice of the pilot jet. The only way you can be sure that it is clean is to remove this jet and look through it and if you can t see through the orifice then it is plugged. It is such a small opening that a piece of lint could be stuck there and restricting the flow of fuel or a piece of dirt or rust could be stopping the fuel flow completely. I believe most air screw settings are less than one turn from closed. I have seen them at around 3/4 of a turn and have heard of some that were completely closed from the factory. I believe the Dynojet recommendations are usually pretty rich for most situations. That is a safe setting since adjusting your carb too lean can cause all sorts of bad things to happen. I d suspect that your air screw should be set around 1 1/2 to 2 turns out and still have good performance. Every bike and every situation is different so YMMV. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: navyboy652002 Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 7:46 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Hard Starting/Carb Prob? Hey all thanks for you replies and suggestions, to keep from multiple replys I'll reply to you each by name! Fred, I justed pulled the carb out to see if there was anything pluged as you suggested. I sprayed into every thing and the carb was already very clean! I am not sure but the pilot jet may hav been pluged as I sprayed into it wile in the carb and didn't seem like it was going anywhere but abter I took it out I sprayed the pilot jet out and in to its hole and the carb cleaner went thru, Just need to test it with the jet back in. As for the plug I was running a Iridium DPR8EIX-9. As for the air setting I was running it at about 2.5-2.75 turns which I thought was right around stock? Jeff Saline, I did the valves roughly about the same time I did the dynojet kit, so about 2-3K ago. Do you think it is worth another check so soon??? Mike Huber, I have not really looked into spark, I know I am getting some. How would one check to see if I am getting enough? Bob, Don't think I am getting a high speed miss? Last time I rode it (nov-oct) once I got it running it seem to run fine thru all normal rpm's. Thanks again all for your help and suggestions.My aim is to get the carb back togeather and on tommorrow after work and see if it is any better? Seth

> --- In mailto:DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > Sounds like you may have a plugged or partially plugged pilot jet. The pilot jet and the air screw are the parts of your carburetor that adjust and feed fuel for starting and idling up to about 1/4 throttle position. The diaphragm is for raising the slide and has nothing really to do with metering fuel. The slide, needle and needle jet adjust fuel for the midrange. (1/4 throttle to 3/4 open) I would never add any additives to your fuel that isn t safe for the o-rings and seals in your carb. You may have created a lot of other problems by doing this. It sounds like you have a lean condition and the hard starting and high idle or surging would indicate this. The heat range of your spark plug is the operating temperature of the electrodes on the plug. If you run a plug that is too cold, it could build up deposits on the electrodes and that would effect the performance of your engine. If the plug is too hot, it will burn the electrodes and could also burn your piston. I d recommend a new NGK DPR8EA-9 or the Iridium DPR8EIX-9. I d start by checking your pilot jet and the air screw setting. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ian]

Might be time to check the valve clearances. A tight valve can cause hard starting. Let it go too long and you're looking at burned valves. Been there done that with my 2000 KLR650.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "navyboy652002" wrote: > > Ok, just to start this off I have done a lot of searching and reading on this problem but it has been over several months and I think I am at a point where I may have too much info in my head, or more likely have confused myself. > > What I have 2000 KLR650 (think it might be a CA version with the emissions removed(not by me)) Has about 11-12000 mi. About 2-3,000 miles ago I rejetted it with a dynojet kit(came with 2 adjustments, went with the lower-less performance), added an Adjustable Fuel/Air Mixture Screw (like this one http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/AirAdjustingScrew.html) and I put in a new air cut off valve (had popping on decel). > After this work bike ran great! Oh and I do have an inline fuel filter. > > No fast forward to this summer. I rode the bike as much as I could to and from work. As the summer went on and into fall I noticed it was getting harder to start the bike, not sure if it was temperature related. Just before we got snow it was getting really hard to start, I tried the choke but didn't seam to make a difference? Usually would take about 10 mins to get it to run/start. > > What I have done. I have run carb cleaner (thru the tank type/gas additive) cleaned the air filter, tried a new plug std temp. Just yesterday I took out the choke plunger, it was intact and appeared to be ok. I sprayed out the choke assembly. However still took 10 mins to start (was cold 40f?) Once it was running I checked for air leaks with carb cleaner and didn't detect any? But when messing with the throttle I noticed that when I would rev it up to 2500rpm's and hold the bike would stay there but then soon would rev by itself to around 3500rpm's and fluctuate even though I had not added any more throttle from the 2500rmp's??? (this in new as before all I had was hard start other wise it ran fine and rode great?) > > So obvioulsy something is wrong? Now I am leaning toward the carb with the rev-ing problem? Is it the diaphram? Prior to the rev problem would a diaphram cause the hard start? I read that some were having problems with the decompression causing hard starts? What about cold temps needing a hotter plug to start. > > So if your still with me after all that, you can see I need some advice! And I would appreciate some! Please post a reply or e-mail me direct if you like to seth@... (note, I get the digest version daily) > > Thanks, Seth >