i broke another one

[Eddie]

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Even on a newer KLR....

 

My 09' has a tad over 9k miles and has only seen a few shallow water crossings with maybe 2 or 3 short rides in the rain.

When I pulled apart the rear suspension for greasing yesterday, I noticed most of the bearings had minimal grease that fortunately still looked clean & new.

There was one exception: In the attached picture, the bolt passing through the frame and the alloy lever/link connecting piece had a fair amount of rust and whitish corrosion on it. I didn't have to hit hard with a drift and hammer to get it out. But, it did not come out smoothly.

The pivot bearing it passes through had grease. But, it was darker in color. I can only guess it's the same lube used elsewhere. So, I'm glad I had a chance to clean in there and pack the ever loving crap out of it with waterproof grease. I also used Scotchbrite pad on the bolt and applied a light coat of grease to it - like you would an axle - before putting things back together. In fact, I greased all the unthreaded portions of the various suspension bolts for next time.

 

eddie

 

[cycletip]

It's on my to-do list next week. Haven't looked at any of the parts since 2004 when the shock was replaced. Only 3K miles though so hope it's not too bad. Time is corrosion's best friend. We'll find out?

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "eddie" wrote: > > Even on a newer KLR.... > > My 09' has a tad over 9k miles and has only seen a few shallow water crossings with maybe 2 or 3 short rides in the rain. > When I pulled apart the rear suspension for greasing yesterday, I noticed most of the bearings had minimal grease that fortunately still looked clean & new. > There was one exception: In the attached picture, the bolt passing through the frame and the alloy lever/link connecting piece had a fair amount of rust and whitish corrosion on it. I didn't have to hit hard with a drift and hammer to get it out. But, it did not come out smoothly. > The pivot bearing it passes through had grease. But, it was darker in color. I can only guess it's the same lube used elsewhere. So, I'm glad I had a chance to clean in there and pack the ever loving crap out of it with waterproof grease. I also used Scotchbrite pad on the bolt and applied a light coat of grease to it - like you would an axle - before putting things back together. In fact, I greased all the unthreaded portions of the various suspension bolts for next time. > > eddie >

[Eddie]

Keep us posted! =) eddie

> [Original Message] > From: cycletip > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 11/14/2010 7:36:35 AM > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: suspension lube. > > It's on my to-do list next week. Haven't looked at any of the parts

since 2004 when the shock was replaced. Only 3K miles though so hope it's not too bad. Time is corrosion's best friend. We'll find out?

>

[cycletip]

It's all tore down cleaned and ready to assemble. Tomorrow hopefully. Hardly any corrosion except on middle of the swing arm and engine mount bolts. Have no idea how the poor guy who wrestled taking out the dog bone without first loosening both the swing arm and rear engine mount bolts did it? Came apart easy. Love working on the KLR. Matter of fact many Kawi's seem like great all around DYI bikes. Shit, if I can do it anyone can. At this point don't see the need for zerks on this application. I'd be worried about one of them getting whacked off road. The swing arm has plenty of marks on it from misc hits.

> > > Keep us posted! > =) > eddie > > > > [Original Message] > > From: cycletip > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > > Date: 11/14/2010 7:36:35 AM > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: suspension lube. > > > > It's on my to-do list next week. Haven't looked at any of the parts > since 2004 when the shock was replaced. Only 3K miles though so hope it's > not too bad. Time is corrosion's best friend. We'll find out? > > >

[cycletip]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cycletip" wrote:

> > It's all tore down cleaned and ready to assemble.

____________________________________________________________________ Well maybe not so fast. One of the list guys did me a favor by sending this message yesterday. > After doing some reading and checking feel his guidance was well founded. Have seen splines on our GS and the stuff does dry out but remains as a lubricant in that application. On bearings it builds up evidently causing failure. Also terrible with regards to water resistance. Funny that the tube calls for use on Honda Pro-Link suspension? That's what got me to use it. Was second guessing myself when Mike sent me that note & started the wheels turning. So, IMHO a standard lithium based GL2 grease is probably the best choice. I'm a slow learner and spent the day cleaning it up one more time.......Thanks go out to Mike in KY Yet another humbling mechanical experience. Monty

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cycletip" wrote:

> > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cycletip" wrote: > > > > It's all tore down cleaned and ready to assemble. > ____________________________________________________________________ > > Well maybe not so fast. One of the list guys did me a favor by sending this message yesterday. > > > If you Google moly paste and read the suggested applications for the various products you will find, I don't think you'll find it recommended for needle bearings. It has good corrosion resistance in a threaded joint, but there's no movement there. > > IMHO. > > Mike Martin, > Louisville, KY>> > > After doing some reading and checking feel his guidance was well founded. Have seen splines on our GS and the stuff does dry out but remains as a lubricant in that application. On bearings it builds up evidently causing failure. Also terrible with regards to water resistance. Funny that the tube calls for use on Honda Pro-Link suspension? That's what got me to use it. Was second guessing myself when Mike sent me that note & started the wheels turning. So, IMHO a standard lithium based GL2 grease is probably the best choice. I'm a slow learner and spent the day cleaning it up one more time.......Thanks go out to Mike in KY Yet another humbling mechanical experience. > > Monty >

~~~I used moly paste to lube certain drive splines on the ST 1100 I rode as well as Mike and any other DIY wrench that was able to read a Honda factory service manual=:-) A couple months ago I cleaned and relubed the needle bearings in my KTM 950A's swing arm. I was surprised to see that the factory (Neither PO touched this maint. procedure) used some sort of moly (molibedenum (SP?) lubricant. I was certain the facotry used moly...I know what it looks like and what it smells like I will say this, the moly in the grease lube the factory used was not as high of a concentrate as Honda Homda Moly Paste 60...but they did use it, for swingarm needle bearings BTW, the needle bearings were in very good condition but, this bike by my standards when I bought it, was a garage queen. No one ever rode it hard, nor put many miles on it...but that was one of the main reasons I bought it FWIW, I did not use a moly grease lube when I reapplied a lubricant in the swingarm needle bearings. I used Lucas 'Red N Tacky', a high grade marine waterproof grease. If I had the same lube the factory used, I would have used it but I'm confident the lube I used, although w/o a moly component, is suitable for swingarm needle bearings Jake Reddick Fla. "The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits" http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/ http://www.flickr.com/photos/26137108@N04

[cycletip]

Jake - there appears to be lots of moly grease with 5 - 7 % moly which probably works just fine. I'd even thought of mixing but took so dam long to push all the lube into the bearing it wasn't worth the mess. Have found there's so much more to grease after reading up it's best to stay mainstream unless specified by the application. Does that make any sense? For gods sake I don't want to make this an oil or chain lube thread. Monty

> I will say this, the moly in the grease lube the factory used was not as high of a concentrate as Honda Homda Moly Paste 60...but they did use it, for swingarm needle bearings > > > BTW, the needle bearings were in very good condition butr, this bike by my standards when I bought it, was a garage queen. No one ever rode it hard, nor put many miles on it...but that was one of the main reasons I bought it > > > FWIW, I did not use a moly grease lube when I reapplied a lubricant in the swingarm needle bearings. I used Lucas 'Red N Tacky', a high grade marine waterproof grease. If I had the same lube the factory used, I would have used it but I'm confident the lube I used, although w/o a moly component, is suitable for swingarm needle bearings > > > > > Jake >

[goluxgo]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "cycletip" wrote:

> > Jake - there appears to be lots of moly grease with 5 - 7 % moly which probably works just fine.

Sounds right. The Honda Common manual recommends above 3% moly for linkages and swingarm bearings. Moly60 for spherical upper and lower shock bearings. LB.

[Jeffrey]

I prefer the blue waterproof type. Available from several different manufacturers. I read that this blue type has aluminum in it and is compatible with more other types of grease. It is somewhat thick. For suspension and wheel bearings on Dual Sports, I believe you should be less worried about heat and more concerned about how waterproof it is and whether it stays put. Also, remember the two holes in the rear suspension... Jeffrey #3

[Monty]

That's a major bummer RedMenace.  Have always thought that top bolt is the most important as it sees a big load factor.  If you ride off road and or carry a pillion the large bolt upgrade is a must IMO.  It's a bit of PITA but worth the time and effort not to mention peace of mind.  I'd just lost a bottom subframe bolt on a trip and noticed it missing second day of riding.  Stole a radiator bolt off the Toyota P/U to fix it.  Besides the backfiring you mentioned the next thing to happen will be the entire wire harness to rip apart.  No fun.  Glad you made it home!