I didn't get his name but the guy that wrote about risk, something to
the effect you have to have good equipment and the KLR was a safety risk
unless you replaced numerous parts on it. Is this true, am I riding a death
trap on my stock 2002 KLR? If so, what should I replace that is likely to
fall off or sheer off like the guy wrote? I have owned it for two weeks
and have only 600 miles on it.
klr vs klx 650
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- Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2001 11:59 pm
safety
Hi John.
No, you're not riding a death trap. A lot of people keep their bikes
stock and have no problems. However, there are modifications you can
make that will improve performance and comfort of your machine.
Reaplacing the stock springs in the forks will make a very noticeable
improvement in handling. Replacing the stock front brake line with a
stainless steel brake line - also noticeable improvement. Rejetting
the carb, putting on an aftermarket exhaust, K&N air filter all will
improve performance. A set of street tires will have you zipping
through corners about dragging your footpegs. Changing the stock seat
for a Corbin or Russell will do away with monkey butt.
The reason you see so many modifications out there is that the bike
hasn't changed much since it's inception in 1987. Through this list, a
lot of tried and true modifications have been shared and we are
fortunate to draw on other listers experiences - both good and bad.
As far as stuff falling off. Well, it's a high-vibration bike. Get a
weekly routine going of checking nuts'n'bolts. Loctite blue the ones
that seem more susceptible to coming loose than others. On mine, I've
lost radiator shroud screws as well as screws to the screen that
protects the radiator. The allen screw under the choke likes to loosen
up as well.
Jeff
A15
San Bruno
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "John Holliman" wrote: > > I didn't get his name but the guy that wrote about risk, something to > the effect you have to have good equipment and the KLR was a safety risk > unless you replaced numerous parts on it. Is this true, am I riding a death > trap on my stock 2002 KLR? If so, what should I replace that is likely to > fall off or sheer off like the guy wrote? I have owned it for two weeks > and have only 600 miles on it.
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- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2000 5:18 pm
safety
In a message dated 11/21/01 12:36:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
John@... writes:
<< I didn't get his name but the guy that wrote about risk, something to
the effect you have to have good equipment and the KLR was a safety risk
unless you replaced numerous parts on it. Is this true, am I riding a death
trap on my stock 2002 KLR? If so, what should I replace that is likely to
fall off or sheer off like the guy wrote? I have owned it for two weeks
and have only 600 miles on it. >>
I've a Y2K with around 12k (not gentle) miles on it, about 50/50 dirt to
street.
As far as components that have failed...I once thought that one of my turn
signal bulbs burnt out, but it turned out to be a loose butt connector.
Visual inspection of your hardware is always good to do when washing the KLR,
as hardware can shake loose on any thumper.
Loctite is always good to use on your KLR hardware, but keep it away from the
plastic. All best
Scott
A14 "thunderdog"
Sorrento, Fl
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- Joined: Tue Jul 16, 2002 3:18 pm
safety
Credit to Phil Tarman.
----- Original Message ----- From: Phil Tarman Sent: Sunday, January 12, 2003 11:54 PM To: peter sutherland Subject: Re: Cage driving rules. 1. Turn signals will give away your next move. A real cagier never uses them. 2. Under no circumstances should you leave a safe distance between you and the car in front of you. If you do, the space will be filled by somebody else who will flip you off. 3. Crossing two or more lanes in a single lane change is considered going with the flow. 4. The faster you drive through a red light, the smaller your chances of getting hit. 5. Never, ever come to a complete stop at a stop sign. No one in cagier land expects it, and it will inevitably result in you being rear-ended. (Exception: If you want your insurance company to pay for a new rear fender, then come to a complete stop at all stop signs.) 6. A right lane construction closure is just a game to see how many people can cut in line by passing you on the right as you sit in the left lane waiting for the same jerks to squeeze their way back in before hitting the orange and white barricades. 7. Braking is to be done as hard and late as possible to ensure that your ABS kicks in and gives you a nice, relaxing foot massage as the brake pedal pulsates. For those of you without ABS, it's a chance to stretch your legs. 8. Never pass on the left when you can pass on the right. It's a good way to scare people entering the highway. 9. Speed limits are arbitrary figures that are given only as suggestions and, apparently, are not enforceable to the cagier area during rush hour. 10. Just because you're in the left lane and have no room to speed up or move over doesn't mean that a cagier flashing his high beams behind you doesn't think he can go faster in your spot. 11. Please remember that there is no such thing as a shortcut during rush hour traffic in cagier land. 12. Always slow down and rubberneck when you see an accident or someone changing a tire. 13. Learn to swerve abruptly. Cagier land is the home of High Speed Slalom driving thanks to the Cagier land Department of Transportation, which puts pot holes in key locations to test drivers' reflexes and keep them on their toes. 14. It is traditional in Cagier land to honk your horn at cars or run over motorcycles that don't move the instant the light changes. 15. Never take a green light for granted. Always look right and left before proceeding. 16. Remember that the goal of every cagier is to get there first by any means necessary. Not only is Cagier land home to High Speed Slalom driving, but many avid NASCAR and Formula race fans call highways their home as well. 17. Real cagier female drivers can apply eye make-up and put on pantyhose at 75 miles per hour or in bumper-to-bumper traffic. 18. Real cagier male drivers can remove their girlfriend's bra or panties at 75 miles per hour or in bumper-to-bumper traffic. 19. In Cagier land, flipping someone the bird is regarded as highly as a military salute. As such, this gesture should always be returned. 20. Never pay attention to a yield sign. It is the responsibility of those who are already in the lane of traffic and traveling at 65 miles per hour to watch out for you and anticipate your rapid entry into the flow of traffic. 21. If you are a recent immigrant to the United States, you are allowed to drive wherever and however you please. We're just so darn happy to have you here that we'll be willing to stay out of your way! 22. If you come upon a car signaling for a left turn on a one-lane road, instead of driving around the stopped car, drive up really fast and then brake just inches from its bumper. Honk, flip off the driver, and make a big production out of having to drive around him/her. Flip off the driver one more time for good measure, and then accelerate as fast as you can past him/her. Phil Tarman COG # 3547 Ft. Morgan, CO '99 Concourse "Tumbleweed" CDA #0016(a-f) IBA # 5811: SS1000, BB1500 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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safety
Re Jacob: safety issues
What kind of live can one have behind, guards, dogs and bars...?
sounds like Jacob is a prisoner rather than a free man!
Cheers
Martin
Canada
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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klr vs klx 650
You can read a lot about the KLX-650 by going to advrider.com, and see the thread "KLX650 riders UNITE" in the Thumpers section.
The KLX-650 came in 2 flavors: The "R" version - kick start, off road only, and the "C" version, street legal dual sport. Last year sold in the USA was 1996, it continued overseas until about 2003.
It is a completely different bike than the KLR-650 and virtually no parts are interchangeable. "Upside down" forks, more off-road oriented, more power, lighter weight. It was more expensive than the KLR, and parts are harder to get since it is now out of production.
The KLX has a gear driven counterbalancer instead of the "doohickey" that the KLR uses. The automatic compression release, KACR, is the KLX's weak point, but overall each bike is about as reliable as the other.
The KLR is generally acknowledged to be a better bike on the road (smoother and a bit more comfortable), the KLX gets the edge just about everywhere else. Most people who have both bikes will generally agree with this, but many who have only the KLX will say that bike is better all around.
Both are good bikes. Kawasaki probably dropped the KLX because the KLR was outselling it, mainly due to the price and cost of manufacturing.
Mike
cycletip wrote:
From what I remember the KLX was more on line with a Honda XR / XL. They had more suspension and were more dirt oriented. Also believe they were either a 600 or maybe smaller. They were a good bike from what I heard. Some guys turned them into street legal dual sports. --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, ray framin1@... wrote: > > can someone explain the major differences, and pros and cons of both please? >
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