wheel balancing

[beachmike1]

I have not done it for a while But in the past I would set up the bike on the center stand or a milk crate. Then use weight like a bag of sand or potaotes to balance the bike to have the wheel of interest off the ground. remove the chain. If drum brake release cable or rod to keep all the presse off the shoes. Disk float so it does not matter. rotate the wheel: when it stops the bottom is the lowest part. Mark with chalk. do this 4x with increasiong speed for start, marking each time. Mark the center of these points. On the direct oppisite side of the tire, wrap some solder I use silver solder. add about 10 grams. (about 1/3 oz). repeat the procedure. When you get to the point where the tire stops randomly the whell is balanced. If you need less then 10 grams just stop . It is good enough. It takes about 10 grams to cause noticable vibrations. If you are using knobies do not waste your time on this procedure. Not worth the effort. Cost $5.00 for the solder. WHen done. remove the solder and wrap very tightly agains the poke nipple you identified. Hammer lighly or put a nice daub of 5 min epoxy on it. Done.

[jmtreeful]

Yesterday I decided it was time to see if I could lift the bike after a tip over. For some reason I decided to remove the emission canister and associated hoses first. I relied on information here and from other forums. I didn't have any vacuum hose caps so I stuck a blue "wire nut" backwards in the hose collar to the air box under the seat and pushed a single short piece of hose onto the two pipes exiting the gas tank. The hose kinked as I pushed it on so it is pretty much like two caps, no? By then it was too hot, I live in Tucson, to get on with the heavy lifting. Today is another day and I realized I couldn't just drop the bike as I've already super glued and clear duct-taped the left side turn signal twice. I roped the bike to a tree and rappelled it to the ground. I first tried the backward lift but couldn't get the knees to provide the needed push. I was successful with the facing the bike, grasping the handlebar and standing the bike up. There are many helpful videos on Utube. Now I could get on with disabling safety features. I got to the stage where I had the required spade connectors removed from the plastic housings. I had every intention of making a jumper connection. When I couldn't easily find some female spade fittings of the proper size I used a crimp fitting normally used to butt two wires. After drilling out the internal stop I pushed the spades in from the same side and crimped them in. I know I can take that connection apart should I want to reinstall because I did. I had the clutch switch bypassed and the side stand switch wires dangling free and decided to start the bike and it did. This made me think I had only to unplug the side stand switch to disable it. If that is true maybe the same goes for the clutch switch so I decrimped the wires to test. No. The clutch wires must be together to start. In the end I jumped both switches by crimping. Question: Is unplugging the side stand switch enough to disable it without side effects? (2007 model) Mike in Tucson It's not the heat it's the humanity.