(nklr nxr nxrl) proud observations of a dad.

[Bob K]

Saw your article on using WD-40 for chains and you asked for evidence of potential harm that WD-40 can do, so am attaching a photo. This photo is of a bearing surface from an airplane. [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2 ... rGomtg--~E[/img]This is a ball and races in a sealed bearing that had been subjected to regular use of WD-40 for a year or two.  The grease was NOT cleaned out before taking this photo - there simply is no grease and the brownish tint is really rust.  The ball had grooves (visible) and was shaped like a potato chip.  The races had not evenly worn (see sectioned edge) and were rutted in spots, although neither shows too well. We learned that WD-40 is really good for the light uses that it was intended for and that needs to be emphasized.  However, it is largely a penetrant, which will do just that! Once it penetrates into the sealed area, it dissolves the petroleum out of the grease, leaving the clay binders.  What's left in the bearing is essentially dirt that cakes up, causing the balls to skid.  Without the petroleum, the bearing will also rust. The reason that kerosene and diesel fuel are still favorites and recommended by the chain people is that while both can be penetrants, they are a thicker petroleum and just what the O-rings are trying to seal against.  Of course, gasoline cleans about the same, but with thinner viscosity and better penetrating power.  In all honesty, I still use gas to clean (I'm lazy), but don't beat the bike often, regularly measure for linkage stretch and sprocket wear, and re-lube on every other tank of gas." Moral of the story is to not use WD-40 for cleaning motorcycle chains.  Does anyone know of a better product that is specifically designed for cleaning a motorcycle chain without dissolving the grease behind the O-rings?   Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/the ... 0_1' More.

[Fred Hink]

How about a little elbow grease with some water soluble cleaner in a Grunge Brush Kit? http://www.finishlineusa.com/products/grunge-brush.htm Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com     [b]From:[/b] cbrxx98@... [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, March 26, 2010 6:01 PM [b]To:[/b] dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Why NOT to use WD40 for cleaning.....   Saw your article on using WD-40 for chains and you asked for evidence of potential harm that WD-40 can do, so am attaching a photo. This photo is of a bearing surface from an airplane. [img]https://ec.yimg.com/ec?url=http%3A%2F%2 ... rGomtg--~E[/img]This is a ball and races in a sealed bearing that had been subjected to regular use of WD-40 for a year or two.  The grease was NOT cleaned out before taking this photo - there simply is no grease and the brownish tint is really rust.  The ball had grooves (visible) and was shaped like a potato chip.  The races had not evenly worn (see sectioned edge) and were rutted in spots, although neither shows too well. We learned that WD-40 is really good for the light uses that it was intended for and that needs to be emphasized.  However, it is largely a penetrant, which will do just that! Once it penetrates into the sealed area, it dissolves the petroleum out of the grease, leaving the clay binders.  What's left in the bearing is essentially dirt that cakes up, causing the balls to skid.  Without the petroleum, the bearing will also rust. The reason that kerosene and diesel fuel are still favorites and recommended by the chain people is that while both can be penetrants, they are a thicker petroleum and just what the O-rings are trying to seal against.  Of course, gasoline cleans about the same, but with thinner viscosity and better penetrating power.  In all honesty, I still use gas to clean (I'm lazy), but don't beat the bike often, regularly measure for linkage stretch and sprocket wear, and re-lube on every other tank of gas." Moral of the story is to not use WD-40 for cleaning motorcycle chains.  Does anyone know of a better product that is specifically designed for cleaning a motorcycle chain without dissolving the grease behind the O-rings?   Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. Learn More.

[axrh350]

17,000 Miles on my origional chain. Only WD40 used after the ride. 6,000 off road miles. Still WELL within specs. I'll stick to the WD40. KLR doesn't have enough power to kill a chain quick. Adam

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bob K wrote: > > > > Saw your article on using WD-40 for chains and you asked for evidence of potential harm that WD-40 can do, so am attaching a photo. This photo is of a bearing surface from an airplane. > This is a ball and races in a sealed bearing that had been subjected to regular use of WD-40 for a year or two. The grease was NOT cleaned out before taking this photo - there simply is no grease and the brownish tint is really rust. > > The ball had grooves (visible) and was shaped like a potato chip. The races had not evenly worn (see sectioned edge) and were rutted in spots, although neither shows too well. > > We learned that WD-40 is really good for the light uses that it was intended for and that needs to be emphasized. However, it is largely a penetrant, which will do just that! > > Once it penetrates into the sealed area, it dissolves the petroleum out of the grease, leaving the clay binders. What's left in the bearing is essentially dirt that cakes up, causing the balls to skid. Without the petroleum, the bearing will also rust. > > The reason that kerosene and diesel fuel are still favorites and recommended by the chain people is that while both can be penetrants, they are a thicker petroleum and just what the O-rings are trying to seal against. Of course, gasoline cleans about the same, but with thinner viscosity and better penetrating power. In all honesty, I still use gas to clean (I'm lazy), but don't beat the bike often, regularly measure for linkage stretch and sprocket wear, and re-lube on every other tank of gas." > > Moral of the story is to not use WD-40 for cleaning motorcycle chains. Does anyone know of a better product that is specifically designed for cleaning a motorcycle chain without dissolving the grease behind the O-rings? > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID27925::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:032010_1 >

[n9udl]

After reading all the WD-40 testimonials it is hard not to be persuaded. As far as killing a chain quick... I haven't killed mine yet (just under 5000mi), but I wouldn't be surprised if the same forces wearing my tires out quickly are not also wearing the chain. I am heavy and accelerate pretty hard on pavement. I really need to adjust my riding style.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "axrh350" wrote: > > 17,000 Miles on my origional chain. Only WD40 used after the ride. 6,000 off road miles. Still WELL within specs. I'll stick to the WD40. KLR doesn't have enough power to kill a chain quick. > > Adam >

[Thomas Komjathy]

Sheeeeet... All I do is wipe it down with WD-40, lube sparingly with 50wt oil with moly in it, then wipe again with Dubya Dee 4-Tee. When I'm on the trail, I just urinate on it and my chains have lasted 80K like that. Ya got y=to eat a lot of bacon to get the best lube when using the urination method. TK [b]From:[/b] n9udl [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Sat, March 27, 2010 6:12:43 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Why NOT to use WD40 for cleaning.....   After reading all the WD-40 testimonials it is hard not to be persuaded. As far as killing a chain quick... I haven't killed mine yet (just under 5000mi), but I wouldn't be surprised if the same forces wearing my tires out quickly are not also wearing the chain. I am heavy and accelerate pretty hard on pavement. I really need to adjust my riding style.

--- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "axrh350" wrote: > > 17,000 Miles on my origional chain. Only WD40 used after the ride. 6,000 off road miles. Still WELL within specs. I'll stick to the WD40. KLR doesn't have enough power to kill a chain quick. > > Adam >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "axrh350" wrote:

> > 17,000 Miles on my original chain. Only WD40 used after the ride. 6,000 off road miles. Still WELL within specs. I'll stick to the WD40. KLR doesn't have enough power to kill a chain quick. > > Adam >

please know: this statement should include: --to kill an OEM O-ring chain quick. Anyone who would use a conventional non-O-ring chain, conventional wisdom, chain lube applies. A std chain is good for 3K smiles on my KLR--and not worth the time, effort, or risk to try that route a 2d time. I obtained this 40 mile chain in a trade and it seemed perfect for trying. It had been the OEM chain on my KLX300R, and I see why the previous owner upgraded to an O-ring chain. I didn't remember that a std chain was so pitiful for longevity. If you have ever had a chain failure, once is enough. What looks like a good chain/sprocket set, turns sour quickly. Two chains used up/expired in the past two seasons; one discovered in the sanctity of my own garage JUST after a 1700mile ride--and just 12 hours from departing. the 2d, left me in the sanctity of mosquito heaven--70 miles short of home, contemplating my sins of frugalness for about 90 minutes till the home team could come and get me. Watch for silver dust collecting on your sprocket-carrier. The dust is warning you, you are about to have a chain/sprocket failure--soon. Other methods of indication are equally of value. revmaaatin. 20K smiles on WD-40 maintained chains.

[Bob K]

That's what I have been saying.....cleaning a chain with wd40 or kerosene is fine as long as you dry it completely then lube with 90w or a good quality chain lube......   Bob 09     To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: mjearl@... Date: Sat, 27 Mar 2010 22:30:31 +0000 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Why NOT to use WD40 for cleaning.....  

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "axrh350" wrote: > > 17,000 Miles on my original chain. Only WD40 used after the ride. 6,000 off road miles. Still WELL within specs. I'll stick to the WD40. KLR doesn't have enough power to kill a chain quick. > > Adam > please know: this statement should include: --to kill an OEM O-ring chain quick. Anyone who would use a conventional non-O-ring chain, conventional wisdom, chain lube applies. A std chain is good for 3K smiles on my KLR--and not worth the time, effort, or risk to try that route a 2d time. I obtained this 40 mile chain in a trade and it seemed perfect for trying. It had been the OEM chain on my KLX300R, and I see why the previous owner upgraded to an O-ring chain. I didn't remember that a std chain was so pitiful for longevity. If you have ever had a chain failure, once is enough. What looks like a good chain/sprocket set, turns sour quickly. Two chains used up/expired in the past two seasons; one discovered in the sanctity of my own garage JUST after a 1700mile ride--and just 12 hours from departing. the 2d, left me in the sanctity of mosquito heaven--70 miles short of home, contemplating my sins of frugalness for about 90 minutes till the home team could come and get me. Watch for silver dust collecting on your sprocket-carrier. The dust is warning you, you are about to have a chain/sprocket failure--soon. Other methods of indication are equally of value. revmaaatin. 20K smiles on WD-40 maintained chains.

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[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "n9udl" wrote:

> > > > After reading all the WD-40 testimonials it is hard not to be persuaded. > > As far as killing a chain quick... I haven't killed mine yet (just under 5000mi), but I wouldn't be surprised if the same forces wearing my tires out quickly are not also wearing the chain. I am heavy and accelerate pretty hard on pavement. I really need to adjust my riding style.

N9udl- Are you still on the original tire? Your OEM tire is notorious for poor wear. (soft compounds; thats good, =sticky) If you have 5K on the original tire, you are 2-3X what others have done. Most are toast at 3K. One thing you should do: make sure your tire pressure is more than the operators handbook. When I first got my KLR in Oct 2003, I 'religiously' set my tire pressure to spec and it scared the crap out of me when it would slide the tires. I wrote 'Ann Landers' right here at DSN and all said the same--the tire pressure is to low for aggressive street riding. Moved the pressure to 32/36 for street riding and now it takes a lot more before the tires will slide. Lower pressures for softer surfaces. A second thing you might find useful: a 14T front sprocket will give your 'loaded' bike a big pep in its step. revmaaatin.

[n9udl]

> Are you still on the original tire? > Your OEM tire is notorious for poor wear.

Heh. Nope, that only lasted 1900 miles, since I was running factory specified tire pressures. I replaced the rear with a Mefo Explorer after reading reports here of good longevity. After about 3000 miles on that tire it's looking flattened in the center, though I still have maybe 50% tread. I have a Mefo to replace the factory front tire when I feel sufficiently motivated... Still acceptable tread for street use, though I'll wish I had swapped it if it is still on next time I am off-road. I have been running high pressures on pavement since putting the Mefo on, usually 40psi rear, 30psi front. Tom

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: I 'religiously' set my tire pressure to spec and it scared the crap out of me when it would slide the tires. I wrote 'Ann Landers' right here at DSN and all said the same--the tire pressure is to low for aggressive street riding. Moved the pressure to 32/36 for street riding and now it takes a lot more before the tires will slide. Lower pressures for softer surfaces. > > ~~~~I was running higher pressures with the Pirelli Scorpion AT rear tire and OE front, but when I went with Kenda 270's front and rear, higher rear tire pressures made the rear tire feel too squirmy on the street, so I lowered to what the manual sez. Perfect!, no more squirm. May have something to do with running the 4.60" rear 270...I dunno Jake Reddick Fla. "To avoid criticism, do nothing, say nothing, be nothing." http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/