fs: riding gear

[Peter Oomen]

I wanted to inspect the front wheel bearings, but found I could not drive them out. Is there a trick? Last one in there had torqued the wheel nut so hard that I snapped my 17mm Wrench. Could the bearing be driven in too hard? Peter in Nova Scotia

[Stanford Johnsey]

There is a circlip on one side. The bearing were not designed to be removed for inspection. If you have been hammering on them they are probably ruined. You can get new bearing from local bearing houses but they are much cheaper through one of the KLR specialist like Happy Trails. Peter Oomen wrote: I wanted to inspect the front wheel bearings, but found I could not drive them out. Is there a trick? Last one in there had torqued the wheel nut so hard that I snapped my 17mm Wrench. Could the bearing be driven in too hard? Peter in Nova Scotia Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Eric L. Green]

On Sat, 26 Feb 2005, Peter Oomen wrote:

> I wanted to inspect the front wheel bearings, but found I could not > drive them out. Is there a trick?

Yes. Heat up the wheel and cool down the bearings.

> Last one in there had torqued the wheel nut so hard that I snapped my > 17mm Wrench. Could the bearing be driven in too hard?

No. There is a spacer to keep sideways force off the bearings. These are ball bearings, not roller bearings. It is just hard to get the bearings in and out without the proper tools. -E

[Chris]

My 1988 Tengai just passed it UK MOT test without any problem. The guy did advise that the front wheel bearing is showing signs of wear. Does anyone know the part number of the bearing? and manufacturer? SKF, INA, FAG, NTN, NSK etc etc. I want to go to bearing stockist and order it while bike still has its wheel on. thanks

[John Biccum]

Thankfully the bearing industry uses an industry-standard numbering scheme. You will need one number 6202 and one number 6203. I'd specify a 2RS suffix to your stockist in order to get two rubber seals. The stock bearings are only sealed on one side (e.g 1RS) so you can consider this an upgrade. I'd also suggest gently lifting the seal on one side of each bearing to ensure that the new bearings are properly greased. The rubber seal will press back into the bearing with a bit of pressure from your thumb and seal will properly. These sizes are typically available in automobile part stores as well as bearing suppliers. I used to advocate one of the Japanese brands (SKF, NTN, NSK) but lately most of these "Japanese" brands' bearings are made elsewhere. I'd not worry too much about the brand. If your stock (cheap) Kawasaki bearings lasted since 1988 the new ones should take you well into your dotage . Chris wrote:

> > > My 1988 Tengai just passed it UK MOT test without any problem. The guy > did advise that the front wheel bearing is showing signs of wear. > > Does anyone know the part number of the bearing? and manufacturer? > SKF, INA, FAG, NTN, NSK etc etc. > > I want to go to bearing stockist and order it while bike still has its > wheel on. > > thanks > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Martin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Chris" wrote:

> > My 1988 Tengai just passed it UK MOT test without any problem. The guy did advise that the front wheel bearing is showing signs of wear. > > Does anyone know the part number of the bearing? and manufacturer? SKF, INA, FAG, NTN, NSK etc etc. > > I want to go to bearing stockist and order it while bike still has its wheel on. > > thanks >

Do you agree that the wheel bearing is failing, or is this some new kind of smoke and mirrors (yes, i realize they wear out, I have a spare set of bearing in my tool box for the past 40K KLR smiles. and they are still in the bottom of the box. I would be curious to see that 'test' and then argue its validity. ie wheel on or wheel off. If it is truly showing signs of wear--your bike has given you due notice and will not repent when it quits on you. revmaaatin.

[Bigmanchris@aol.com]

Good points raised Rev. The test guy had my Tengai on the stand and span the wheel, there was a kinda 'not normal' sound from the hub. Take Care and thanks Chris [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Martin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bigmanchris@... wrote:

> > Good points raised Rev. The test guy had my Tengai on the stand and span > the wheel, there was a kinda 'not normal' sound from the hub. > Take Care and thanks Chris > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

Chris- I seriously doubt that you could hear a front axle bearing noise. If you could, it would not be 'just passable' but near catastrophic-- at which point you should kiss the mech for pointing it out to you. What I hear (as you describe the procedure) is the brake pads rubbing. If you want to know about your bearing-- Remove the wheel, support the tire so you are not putting pressure on the brake disc (use another old tire under the bike wheel) put your clean index finger into the bearing axle opening and move the bearing back and forth. If it is 'rough' you will feel it--and you will need to go back and kiss the inspector. If not, you might want to go back and kick his rear end--so to speak. Flip the wheel over and try the opposite bearing. Is it rough? Kiss, kick as appropirate. While you have it off, you might be able to push some good quality bearing greas into the bearing with a needle fitting on your grease gun. Take care in remounting the wheel. Make sure you have the speedo indexed properly on the wheel, and the speedo unit properly indexed into the R fork =Tab A into Slot B. Look at it carefully before you pull the axle completly out and you will see how it all goes back together. I like to pack the speedo unit with grease =full to minimize water intrusion. Works for me. YMMV. revmaaatin. ps. Indefense of the inspector (I recall your bike being an 88? with an unknown history), it very well might need bearings. smile. Kiss the inspector, etc as necessary.

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

Pants are sold; jacket still available. Thanks, Mark At 10:45 AM -0500 11/15/09, Tengai Mark Van Horn wrote:

>I lost 54 pounds since January, so I'm swimming in my gear. > >Current model Olympia AST Jacket, Hi-Vis yellow, excellent shape and >only hand washed (twice) with powdered Ivory soap and line-dried to >maintain the waterproof membrane's integrity. It could use a wash >again and I'll do that before I ship it, or you can do it. Comes with >nice zip-in insulated liner that is also a casual jacket in itself. >Size XXL >$165.00 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. > >First Gear Hypertex Overpants with temperfoam hip and knee >protection. These have been crashed in and repaired. they also lost >their waterproofness (they sucked anyway when new). Still good beater >pants for hacking around in the brush, and I'm currently wearing them >on my daily commute. >Size XXL >$35.00 shipped anywhere in the lower 48. Add $15 and I'll include the >Marsee CE-approved knee armor that I added to them. > >Thanks, >Mark >