klr 250 minimalist adventure update, tues evening nklr

[Lewis Goode]

I changed the oil in the forks on my 2003 KLR with 5000 miles today. The oil that drained out was black! The original oil is red. I removed the screw at the bottom of the fork leg to drain the oil. I had purchased three bottles of Honda 10wt fork oil. This oil was more readilly available to me. I poured 1/2 of one bottle into each fork to rinse out the old oil and then let that drain out. I then removed the springs from both forks and carefully lowered the front end down. I then poured one bottle of fork oil into each leg. I extended the forks by rocking unto the side stand and then letting down carefully again. I then used a spray bottle head and straw as outlined by Mark in the list to get the proper oil level. I then replaced springs and spacers . That was it. I feel this way is much easier and faster. I would be inclined to do this procedure again sooner so as to further clean the oil in the forks. Lewis [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[kcuf_oohay_666]

I did my forks yeasterday also, along with front and rear brakes. Yes the oil was black. I changed it as follows. 1) unsrewed the screw at the bottom of the fork 2) Put large (1-ltr)plastic measureing cup up to the botome of the fork 3) Pushed up and down on the handle bars, until no more oil came out 4) checked the level of oil in the cup 5a) unscrewed the top cap. after loosening tripple clamp 5b) Fork spring and cap went Schprooong 5c) picked up cap from floor 6) leaned bike on side to get weight off forks 7) added the same amount of oil that came out (1/2 liter) 8) replaced cap 9) repeated for other side but didnt let cap get on floor

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Lewis Goode" wrote: > I changed the oil in the forks on my 2003 KLR with 5000 miles today. The oil that drained out was black! The original oil is red. > I removed the screw at the bottom of the fork leg to drain the oil. I had purchased three bottles of Honda 10wt fork oil. This oil was more readilly available to me. I poured 1/2 of one bottle into each fork to rinse out the old oil and then let that drain out. I then removed the springs from both forks and carefully lowered the front end down. I then poured one bottle of fork oil into each leg. I extended the forks by rocking unto the side stand and then letting down carefully again. I then used a spray bottle head and straw as outlined by Mark in the list to get the proper oil level. I then replaced springs and spacers . That was it. > > I feel this way is much easier and faster. I would be inclined to do this procedure again sooner so as to further clean the oil in the forks. > > Lewis > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[j. Brown]

To what extent does riding with dirty oil hamper/affect the ride? -j.

[kcuf_oohay_666]

I dont know.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "J. Brown" wrote: > To what extent does riding with dirty oil hamper/affect the ride? > -j.

[Felicisimo E. Madarang]

Just did my forks today also. While I was there I installed LR Progressive springs and went with 15W oil. Also adjusted the steering stem and torqued upper and lower triple clamps using Eldon Carl's method. Oh yea, changed handlebars for Renthal Desert CR. Took the finished product on the road today and flogged it wide open at 95 for several minutes and the steering was rock solid. Flogged it throught the twisties as well. Amazing performace condsidering I am running Kenda 270s. Will take it into the desert tomorrow to see if the springs and oil make a difference in the ditches and gullies. Fel

[Jim]

I too just did my fork oil change, thanks to those of you who have shared your experiences. I pumped out the left side and it had a red color but when I drained the right it was black/gray with no red color at all. I mixed a 10w and 15w fork oil, used a bit to flush the tubes after I loosened the triple clamps, removed the caps, spacers, preload tubes and springs then reinstalled the drain screws with blue locktight. I fully compressed the forks with two tie downs and put in about 500 mls of new oil. I took the advice and used a spray bottle head and cut to length (190mm) the feed tube then pumped until it quit, it worked great. Next I extended the forks, cleaned and installed the innards then very carefully threaded the caps back on. The caps do have to be forced down due to the preload spacers and springs but I just used a socket and extension and started it in by hand. Finally I torqued the cabs to 22 ft/lbs, then torqued the fork clamps to 18 ft/lbs, and put on the plastic caps over the air valves. Went for a little test ride and did not notice much of a difference, but I've never had a complaint about the suspension and have never bottomed it out. --Jim A-15

[kcuf_oohay_666]

I dont think you should have used locktite on those screws

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Jim" wrote: > then reinstalled the drain screws with blue > locktight. > --Jim > A-15

[Doug Pippin]

Jim That's one way to change the fork oil. I've done a lot of suspension work over the years and have found the best way to change the fork oil is to remove the forks from the bike so you can clean all the parts and remove the sediment that accumulates in the bottom of the forks. It's then easy to set the oil level reassemble the forks and reinstall in the bike. In your case it sounds like the right fork had dirt an water in the oil causing the oil to turn black. I would have replaced the seals in this case to prevent this from happening again. I've also found that it's best to use one weight of fork oil not try and mix two or more weights together. You'll get more consistency that way. Just changing the oil in the forks will have little effect unless you changed the oil viscosity. Bigger changes will be noticed when you change the springs, preload or in the case of the KLR install Race Tech emulators that let you adjust the damping. I've ridden lots of dirt bikes and find the forks on the KLR to one of the weak points of the bike. I've only had my KLR for 3 weeks but intend to replace the springs and if that doesn't cure the wallowing front suspension go to the Race Tech emulators. When you get the forks dialed in the way you like them you will notice a big difference in the way the bike handles and make it easier to ride. Doug At 11:18 PM 10/2/03 +0000, you wrote:

> Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2003 21:08:39 -0000 > From: "Jim" >Subject: Fork Oil Change > >I too just did my fork oil change, thanks to those of you who have shared >your experiences. I pumped out the left side and it had a red color but >when I drained the right it was black/gray with no red color at all. I >mixed a 10w and 15w fork oil, used a bit to flush the tubes after I >loosened the triple clamps, removed the caps, spacers, preload tubes and >springs then reinstalled the drain screws with blue locktight. I fully >compressed the forks with two tie downs and put in about 500 mls of new >oil. I took the advice and used a spray bottle head and cut to length >(190mm) the feed tube then pumped until it quit, it worked great. Next I >extended the forks, cleaned and installed the innards then very carefully >threaded the caps back on. The caps do have to be forced down due to the >preload spacers and springs but I just used a socket and extension and >started it in by hand. Finally I torqued the cabs to 22 ft/lbs, then >torqued the fork clamps to 18 ft/lbs, and put on the plastic caps over the >air valves. Went for a little test ride and did not notice much of a >difference, but I've never had a complaint about the suspension and have >never bottomed it out. >--Jim >A-15

---------- Doug Pippin 828-684-8488 dpippin5@... ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Djmahle@aol.com]

I need some help--I am changing the fork oil in my 97 KLR and putting in new fork seals. I can't find in the manual how much fork oil to put in or what weight to use. Would appreciate any ideas. Thanks. Dave Mahle [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bogdan Swider]

> > I need some help--I am changing the fork oil in my 97 KLR and putting in new > fork seals. I can't find in the manual how much fork oil to put in or what > weight to use. Would appreciate any ideas. Thanks. > > Dave Mahle >

Check this out. http://www.geocities.com/TheTropics/Breakers/8462/KLR650/ForkSeal-RR.html Bogdan