: [dsn_klr650] wind troubles

[sourdoughmedic]

Hello All- Non-KLR question to assist my buddy. I know that alot of you are uber smart on this stuff. My friend bought a remake 1932 Russion WWII bike with side car. It's actually a 2008; this weekend we took his final drive off due to a leak, shaft driven bike, very user friendly. Upon inspection, we noticed his brake shoes (drum brakes), when activated would press against the aluminum drum housing. 1) Aluminum is a soft metal, will this become a problem? 2) does anyone know off hand about (approximately) how long that drum will last him? My level of expertise on bikes is pretty much nil, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Larry 09 KLR

[geobas]

Sounds like you he has a Ural. They have a pretty active Web Site. Google 'sidecars' and look for a Ural Link or just try Ural. George in Rancho Bernardo, CA

On Sun, Mar 8, 2009 at 4:25 PM, sourdoughmedic wrote: > Hello All- Non-KLR question to assist my buddy. I know that alot of you are > uber smart on this stuff. My friend bought a remake 1932 Russion WWII bike > with side car. It's actually a 2008; this weekend we took his final drive > off due to a leak, shaft driven bike, very user friendly. > > Upon inspection, we noticed his brake shoes (drum brakes), when activated > would press against the aluminum drum housing. > > 1) Aluminum is a soft metal, will this become a problem? > > 2) does anyone know off hand about (approximately) how long that drum will > last him? > > My level of expertise on bikes is pretty much nil, so any help would be > appreciated. Thank you in advance. > > Larry > 09 KLR > >

[Jake Wilson]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, geobas wrote:

> > Sounds like you he has a Ural. They have a pretty active Web Site. > Google 'sidecars' and look for a Ural Link or just try Ural. > > George in > Rancho Bernardo, CA >

~~~The best yahoo ural site is here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/wagnerscycle/ Jake Reddick Fla.

> On Sun, Mar 8, 2009 at 4:25 PM, sourdoughmedic wrote: > > Hello All- Non-KLR question to assist my buddy. I know that alot of you are > > uber smart on this stuff. My friend bought a remake 1932 Russion WWII bike > > with side car. It's actually a 2008; this weekend we took his final drive > > off due to a leak, shaft driven bike, very user friendly. > > > > Upon inspection, we noticed his brake shoes (drum brakes), when activated > > would press against the aluminum drum housing. > > > > 1) Aluminum is a soft metal, will this become a problem? > > > > 2) does anyone know off hand about (approximately) how long that drum will > > last him? > > > > My level of expertise on bikes is pretty much nil, so any help would be > > appreciated. Thank you in advance. > > > > Larry > > 09 KLR > > > > >

[Michael Martin]

Hi Larry, Are you sure that there isn't an iron liner cast inside the aluminum brake drum? Did you check with a magnet? Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ________________________________ From: sourdoughmedic To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Sunday, March 8, 2009 7:25:18 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Aluminum Brake Drum's Hello All- Non-KLR question to assist my buddy. I know that alot of you are uber smart on this stuff. My friend bought a remake 1932 Russion WWII bike with side car. It's actually a 2008; this weekend we took his final drive off due to a leak, shaft driven bike, very user friendly. Upon inspection, we noticed his brake shoes (drum brakes), when activated would press against the aluminum drum housing. 1) Aluminum is a soft metal, will this become a problem? 2) does anyone know off hand about (approximately) how long that drum will last him? My level of expertise on bikes is pretty much nil, so any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Larry 09 KLR [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Mike Hansen]

found this article: just like anything else on a bike. Its experience and knowing ones limitations. Street Savvy: Riding in Wind Photography by Kevin Wing Nobody likes being pushed around, least of all at 70 mph on the freeway, or somewhere north of 100 mph on the track. But that's exactly what a stiff wind will do unless you understand what you're up against. Quickly moving air, you see, behaves a lot like water. Navigating against a steady crosscurrent is relatively easy; steer into it just enough to stay on course. Plowing through a turbulent patch is more complicated. Steer or be steered. Constant corrective pressure on the bars and pegs is the only way to maintain the desired compass heading. No matter how strong you are, the wind is stronger. So be smarter. Give yourself a cushion of downwind real estate wherever possible so unexpected gusts doesn't shove you into something solid, or off the road altogether. Plug in to your surroundings and you'll see most gusts aren't entirely random. Expect a blast of air to coincide with gaps in traffic or terrain--a line of large trucks or a canyon wall or emerging from behind some big wind-blocking urban structure--and brace yourself. The same plan works at the track. Figure out where the wind wants to stand you up or push you over and then compensate by pushing back--and easing off and pushing back--just enough to hold your line. Gale-force wind at the apex of a corner, for example, means you need less throttle and more weight on the front wheel. Scooting up in the seat and moving your head and torso forward will help. Know thy enemy and you'll develop what wily Willow Springs veteran and Dunlop tire guru Dennis Smith calls "wind guts." "Being familiar with what the wind does and where gives you an advantage at any track," Smith says, "because you're calm while the other guys are freaking out." How do you learn that? The same way you get to Carnegie Hall. Practice. Tucking in a bit makes it tougher for the wind to get hold of you. So does snug-fitting gear, as opposed to the XXXL Army surplus rainsuit that jerks you around like a racing spinnaker at speed. Big bikes with big fairings can be especially unruly. If you ride such a beast, pay attention to how it acts in the wind and plan your reactions accordingly. Wrestling with any bike takes more effort in the wind. Dehydration and fatigue arrive earlier, so dialing down daily mileage is a good idea on long treks. Above all? Know your limitations. When the Weather Channel is reporting 70-mph gusts, switch to a nice solid seat at Starbucks or Denny's until things calm down. ----- Forwarded Message ---- From: Randy Kuklis To: Mike Hansen Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 9:29:48 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Wind Troubles the wind gets to me as well, especially if there is nothing around to indicate the direction or intensity of the wind, not to mention usually wind is not a constant. There are some techniques, like looking at tree tops, or flying flags, or debris/dust blowing alongside the road. Another indicator is looking far ahead to see how the other vehicles react. If up ahead, other vehicles cannot maintain a straight path of travel, that may be an indicator of a wind gust. The downside is by the time you get to that spot, the gust may have subsided, or possibly increased.

--- On Mon, 3/30/09, Mike Hansen wrote: From: Mike Hansen Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Wind Troubles To: rysburnr@... Date: Monday, March 30, 2009, 11:42 AM Randy, Yes the turbulance and vacum created from a passing rig or from passing a rig is strong. my first time on the interstate last November I was scared to pass them. Now I have learned my limits of a safe pass. Being on a low speed under powered KLR. passing a rig at freeways speeds requires some common knowledge. I only have about 6 Thousand miles under my belt as a streetbike rider. Rode offroad since a kid. I have been able to respect the rain, the sun,moon and the snow : ) hahah.. but the wind still scares me. ________________________________ From: Randy Kuklis To: Mike Hansen Sent: Monday, March 30, 2009 8:30:59 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Wind Troubles Greetings Mike; I've ridden for many years but have not experienced such violent wind gusts. I also teach the MSF courses and conduct advanced on-street instruction with Stayin' Safe Motorcycle Training. In our Stayin' Safe courses, we don't proclaim there is only one way to ride a motorcycle, but we encourage each of our students to be more analytical in their riding and to weigh the pros and cons of a situation and apply that to their particular skill level. Some riders may opt to park their bike, to find shelter until winds subside and visibility increases, while other riders may decide to continue on which may be a foolish decision or maybe not. I also perform volunteer work at a local trauma hospital. A few years back I visited two patients who were involved in separate motorcycle crashes. Both claimed they were sucked into the vacuum of a passing tractor-trailer truck. Both patients did not appear to be very skilled riders, but of all my years of riding and reading motorcycle magazines, this was the first I've heard of such a thing. My guess is their failed to create space as the truck passed. Randy --- On Mon, 3/30/09, Mike Hansen wrote: From: Mike Hansen Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Wind Troubles To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, March 30, 2009, 10:30 AM I travel from Las Vegas to Pacific Ocean often. The wind was terrible last night. blew me from my lane almost into the next. the Gust's of wind is what's hard to handle. Has anyone ever been blown over from wind ? I see tractor/trailers and rv's blown over yearly onlong that stretch of highway 15. I wonder when should I just stop my tavels and find shelter. last night was the worst yet. 100 ft visibility from dust and rocks hitting me from the wind gusts. -Mike- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]