When I replaced the camshafts after adjusting my valve lash, the intake side would not line
up even with the top of the engine. The arrow was pointing a little up and the tail was a little
hidden beneath the top of the casting. When I put it a tooth counterclockwise, the arrow was
pointed too far down. I figured, as the chain wears, it would stretch, leaving the arrow
pointing a little up. So, that's the way I installed it.
My question is: What are the symptoms of an intake cam that is slightly retarded v. slightly
advanced? After reassembling the bike, the engine feels like it's loading up until it's fully
warmed. It never used to do this. Do I need to advance the intake cam a tooth?
TIA,
John
set of klr wheels & tires for sale (a14)
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Dec 06, 2008 5:53 pm
camshaft timing question
The bike is a '96 A-10. Mileage is 42,000 miles. The engine,
gearing, exhaust are all stock.
Both side covers were taken off about 6 months and 3,000 miles ago to
replace the clutch and clutch springs, change the 'doo, and clean the
oil screen. The only change between noticing the power drop when cold
and now is the valve lash adjustment and possibly a change in the
intake camshaft timing (I forgot to make note of the camshaft position
prior to removing them).
Intake valve lash for both valves were in spec but on the tight side;
exhaust lash was out of spec (tight) on both. Both intake and exhaust
were set to 0.008" clearance nominal. All measurements were made 3X,
with the camshaft caps torqued to spec and the crank rotated 2x min
between measurements.
Thanks,
John
On Tue, Dec 16, 2008 at 11:50 PM, tomatocity wrote: Tell us more about your KLR, year, mileage, what improvements have you done to it, have you ever had the side covers off, have you ever worked on the timing? --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klrjohn650" wrote: > > When I replaced the camshafts after adjusting my valve lash, the intake side would not line > up even with the top of the engine. The arrow was pointing a little up and the tail was a little > hidden beneath the top of the casting. When I put it a tooth counterclockwise, the arrow was > pointed too far down. I figured, as the chain wears, it would stretch, leaving the arrow > pointing a little up. So, that's the way I installed it. > > My question is: What are the symptoms of an intake cam that is slightly retarded v. slightly > advanced? After reassembling the bike, the engine feels like it's loading up until it's fully > warmed. It never used to do this. Do I need to advance the intake cam a tooth? > > TIA, > John >
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- Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Jan 13, 2001 5:42 am
camshaft timing question
Check the timing marks, it is easy to get them wrong.
If you do get them wrong, the bike will start and idle fine, but it will be rally sleepy @ road speeds.
El Mur Kamloops, B.C. Canada.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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- Posts: 267
- Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 2:22 pm
camshaft timing question
The one thing that I noticed which could make a difference was the
cam chain tension. I've done this 4x (multiple KLRs) now and the
timing marks seem to line up better if I 'loosely' reinstall the
spring-loaded tensioner to take all of the slack out of the chain.
Originally I noticed a slight +/- on the timing marks when attempted
w/o slight but consistant chain tension.
This works for me but of course make sure that the flywheel is
properly oriented to start off the whole process on the right foot.
Don R100, A6F
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klrjohn650"
wrote:
intake side would not line> > When I replaced the camshafts after adjusting my valve lash, the
little up and the tail was a little> up even with the top of the engine. The arrow was pointing a
counterclockwise, the arrow was> hidden beneath the top of the casting. When I put it a tooth
stretch, leaving the arrow> pointed too far down. I figured, as the chain wears, it would
slightly retarded v. slightly> pointing a little up. So, that's the way I installed it. > > My question is: What are the symptoms of an intake cam that is
loading up until it's fully> advanced? After reassembling the bike, the engine feels like it's
cam a tooth?> warmed. It never used to do this. Do I need to advance the intake
> > TIA, > John >
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- Posts: 121
- Joined: Mon Jan 31, 2005 10:15 am
set of klr wheels & tires for sale (a14)
I have an extra set of wheels (bought from tengai mark about two
years ago- I think they are from a 2000 model). My intention was to
have two sets of wheels/tires for road and dirt but I bought a Wee-
Strom last year and after almost two years they are still sitting in
the garage never installed on the bike.
Includes-
- The wheels (one spoke was replaced)
- A set of IRC GP1's (rear is virtually new & front is about half
worn but turned around to wear the other side of the knobs).
- Heavy duty tubes.
- Rim Locks.
- Brake disks (but not the rear sprocket or carrier).
Everything is mounted and balanced and ready to go. I have never
used them, so I can't really say how they work.
I am looking for $450 for the pair. You can E-Mail me at
shipsurveyor@... for pictures. If you are interested, I can
ship them for whatever the post office or UPS charges or you can
pick them up in Houston. Paypal only for shipping or cash for pick
up please.
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