cdi question

[gbennett69]

Hi Is it a good idea to put slime in the tubes of the tires, whats your opinion. Also how do you get it into the tires. Im mechanically challenged I have seen vendors online selling it in diffrent amounts what amount do you recommend. Also I take it that if i do put slime in the tires then FIX A Flat wont work. Thanks Garrett 08 KLR Bayonne,nj

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "gbennett69" wrote:

> Is it a good idea to put slime in the tubes of the tires,

No. You want "Ride-On TPS" if you want anything. (Search Teh Google for it). Ride-On is water-based so can be easily cleaned up. Slime is almost impossible to clean up when you change tires. And even Ride-On is only moderately useful with tube-type tires, since tubes with obstacles sticking into them through the tire tend to rip and form holes too large for the goo to patch as the tire flexes (since the tire and the tube flex independently). Some folks swear by it, some folks think it's useless.

> Also I take it that if i do put slime in the tires then FIX A Flat wont > work.

Fix-a-Flat doesn't work at ALL with tube-type tires, because once your tire deflates, it slips on the rim and rips the stem out of the tube. The tube won't hold air after that (duh!). All it does at that point is put goop all over the inside of your wheel to make the installer's life miserable. Leave the Fix-a-Flat at home, or in the trunk of your car. -E

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 10:27 PM +0000 7/8/08, E.L. Green wrote:

>--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "gbennett69" wrote: >> Is it a good idea to put slime in the tubes of the tires, > >No. You want "Ride-On TPS" if you want anything. (Search Teh Google >for it). Ride-On is water-based so can be easily cleaned up. Slime is >almost impossible to clean up when you change tires.

FALSE. Do you have direct experience with the difficulty in cleaning Slime? Or are you parroting what others have stated. (Like the guys who all told me I'd freeze on an inflatable mattress after I tossed my ThermaRest.) Slime is completely water soluble and contains water and about 50% propylene glycol (food antifreeze). All brands of sealants of this type have the same basic composition: polymer fibers, water, some type of glycol (usually propylene or ethylene glycol). I've spilled it on tires and tubes and it cleaned right up. Mark

[ltslpr]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "E.L. Green" wrote:

> Fix-a-Flat doesn't work at ALL with tube-type tires, because once your > tire deflates, it slips on the rim and rips the stem out of the tube. > The tube won't hold air after that (duh!). All it does at that point > is put goop all over the inside of your wheel to make the installer's > life miserable. Leave the Fix-a-Flat at home, or in the trunk of your > car.

I have a can of generic Fix-A-Flat zip-tied to my bike. I have only one experience with this type of product on a bike, when a friend on a tube-tired GS1100E picked up a nail in his rear tire. We used my FAF; it sealed the hole and got him home that day. And to/from work the entire next week, until he had time to replace the inner tube. He did have to put additional air in the tire at the first gas station. Glenn San Jose, CA

[Jim Douglas]

ltslpr wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , "E.L. Green" wrote: > > Fix-a-Flat doesn't work at ALL with tube-type tires, because once your > > tire deflates, it slips on the rim and rips the stem out of the tube. > > The tube won't hold air after that (duh!). All it does at that point > > is put goop all over the inside of your wheel to make the installer's > > life miserable. Leave the Fix-a-Flat at home, or in the trunk of your > > car. > > I have a can of generic Fix-A-Flat zip-tied to my bike. I have only > one experience with this type of product on a bike, when a friend on a > tube-tired GS1100E picked up a nail in his rear tire. We used my FAF; > it sealed the hole and got him home that day. And to/from work the > entire next week, until he had time to replace the inner tube. He did > have to put additional air in the tire at the first gas station. > > Glenn > San Jose, CA > >

Like wifes, everyone has different experiences with things, I have heard it's the best thing since sliced bread and also it's a ucked up mess.............

[Reverend]

The bad things I've heard are that it is a mess to clean out from the rim/tire when you get around to it. Also that it's vulcanizing, so particularly in tubeless tires (no idea whether it's worth it in tubes) if you have previous patches/plugs, it can dissolve them - true allegedly if you just leave it in and run it for a while. With how tubes go flat (pinches, tears etc) it seems to me that it might not be that effective in a tube. Not sure. You'd probably remove the valve and pour the stuff in - unlike fix-a-flat that is pressurized and just pumps in. Then you fill with air to specified pressure. Amount of slime? No idea. I also don't know what it will do to the balance of a tire. //Reverend

> -----Original Message----- > Behalf Of gbennett69 > Is it a good idea to put slime in the tubes of the tires, > whats your opinion.

[Moose]

My buddy ran Slime in his front tube of a KLR for a few months. No problems, the instructions and valve removal tool were with the kit. The slime is also self balancing as it runs around the inside of the tube. The only mess I had when I removed the tube was when I located the small hole and messed with it. I carry at least 1 Slime kit for my off road adventures as it can save time for nail holes, etc. For a tear, you're S.O.L and need to patch/replace. Moose ----- Original Message ---- From: Reverend To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2008 9:11:35 AM Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] SLIME question The bad things I've heard are that it is a mess to clean out from the rim/tire when you get around to it. Also that it's vulcanizing, so particularly in tubeless tires (no idea whether it's worth it in tubes) if you have previous patches/plugs, it can dissolve them - true allegedly if you just leave it in and run it for a while. With how tubes go flat (pinches, tears etc) it seems to me that it might not be that effective in a tube. Not sure. You'd probably remove the valve and pour the stuff in - unlike fix-a-flat that is pressurized and just pumps in. Then you fill with air to specified pressure. Amount of slime? No idea. I also don't know what it will do to the balance of a tire. //Reverend

> -----Original Message----- > Behalf Of gbennett69 > Is it a good idea to put slime in the tubes of the tires, > whats your opinion.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Al T]

Hi: I was booting along on a beautiful ride on Tuesday afternoon when all of a sudden my 2007 KLR just quit. My 2003 used to do this a fair bit and I was told (after many episodes) that it was a loose connection. My 2003 seemed to work fine after the tech went through and took the connections apart, cleaned them, and put them back together. Anyway, I pushed the bike to a shady spot and pulled the tank off, then started taking the connections apart and trying to clean the connections. After putting them back together and replacing my spark plug with an oldy but a goody, she still wouldn't start. She'd crank fine, just not start. I got the bike home after a 3 1/2 hour period of reflection in a very pretty spot by the Meeting Creek. I did some checking of components today and here's what I've found: The coil seems to be okay. The Diode seems okay. I tried the resistance test and it failed, but I talked to a tech at a local shop who told me that they don't trust the resistance test, they do a diode test. I did the diode test and the diode seems to be working fine. I tested the CDI and got some VERY odd results. I'm reluctant to go out and buy a new one because they cost so much, AND I keep hearing that these things NEVER wear out. My strange results are that most of the resistance measurement of the CDI indicated very high resistance even when they should be in the order of 20 kilo ohms. Does anyone have experience with performing the resistance testing of the CDI and how accurate it is? Here is what the Clymer manual suggests for the measurements (values in kilo-ohms): -/+ W R R/G L/R B/W B Y/B W Infinite Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. R 10-55 5-25 5-35 inf. 5-25 20-90 R/G 2-10 2-10 1-6 inf 0 10-50 L/R 4-20 4-20 1-6 inf 1-6 10-55 B/W inf inf inf inf inf inf B 2-10 2-10 0 1-6 inf 10-50 Y/B 15-80 15-80 10-50 10-55 inf 10-50 Here's what I got when I did my teting using a multi meter with a maximum range of 200 kilo-ohms: -/+ W R R/G L/R B/W B Y/B W Infinite Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. R Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. Inf. R/G Inf. Inf. 2 Inf. 0 23 L/R Inf. Inf. 2 inf. 2 26 B/W inf. inf. inf. inf. inf. inf. inf. B inf. inf. 0 2 inf. 23 Y/B inf. inf. 23 26 inf. 23 To me, this looks like the CDI is toast, but I keep hearing that the CDI hardly ever fries. Does anyone have an idea as to whether the test indicates that the thing is fried. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Al T