nklr and animals

[hownowbc1]

I know this has been covered before but I can't seem to find anything. Does anyone have any info on upgrading to higher quality sealed wheel bearings? maybe a part# or manufacturer. Thanks, Kevin. A15

[Jake Jakeman]

Back when we were doing his KLX fork graft, Zack and I did a little casual research re the headset bearings. I've got the SKF handbook, and use a supplier in SLC: next day by UPS ground. A supplier he uses beat some of my guy's prices. If you read the code on the shield, a bearing supply can get you a cross reference number, even though the OEM bearings are non-SKF. Wise move to shielded bearings, especially if you do wet crossings, or ride in dusty conditions. He's at: zmully@... _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

[Zachariah Mully]

All- I got a full set of SKF double rubber shielded bearing made in the USofA from http://www.bearing-johnson.com for around $30+s/h. Their prices most likely have changed in the past 10 months, but here's their SKF price list: http://www.arrowweb.com/bake/skffpl.htm For the rear you'll need a 6003-2RS, 6004-2RS and a 6204-2RS. For the front you'll need a 6202-2RS and 6203-2RS. (Check on the 2RS designation before ordering, I think those are the double rubber shielded ones). Z SE DC

On Fri, 2002-03-01 at 01:09, Jake Jakeman wrote: > Back when we were doing his KLX fork graft, Zack and I did a little casual > research re the headset bearings. I've got the SKF handbook, and use a > supplier in SLC: next day by UPS ground. A supplier he uses beat some of my > guy's prices. If you read the code on the shield, a bearing supply can get > you a cross reference number, even though the OEM bearings are non-SKF. > Wise move to shielded bearings, especially if you do wet crossings, or ride > in dusty conditions. He's at: zmully@... > >

[tomklra14]

After searching archives I went to arrowweb.com to get some wheelbearings. I found a page with the correct part numbers (6003- 2RS, 6004-2RS, etc.)but the page says they are electrical motor (C-3) bearings. The price for each bearing is around $2.00 (too cheap?). Are these the correct bearings to get? If not, is there another web page I can go to? Thank you, Tom

[Zachariah Mully]

On Thu, 2002-10-10 at 10:51, tomklra14 wrote:

> After searching archives I went to arrowweb.com to get some > wheelbearings. I found a page with the correct part numbers (6003- > 2RS, 6004-2RS, etc.)but the page says they are electrical motor (C-3) > bearings. The price for each bearing is around $2.00 (too cheap?). > Are these the correct bearings to get? If not, is there another web > page I can go to? > > Thank you, > > Tom

Tom- The people at Johnson Bearing are good to deal with, but the one catch is that when you order from them, you have to make sure that you specify that you want SKF or some other name brand bearings. If you don't, they send you cheapo Chinese bearings. Plus they've stopped listing SKF pricing on their website. Give a call, they've always given me great service. Z

[Guest]

How long do the stock wheel bearings last? I have 25,000+ miles on my A15. I saw in Dennis Kirk that they only cost $3.00 each. Should I replace them or are the stock ones good for another 25K miles? Thanks Craig

[Steve Green]

Craig, I replaced mine around 21,000 due to excessive sideways play in the rear wheel. The 3 bearings were still OK but definitely had more than normally "slop" in them, and I did not want a problem in the middle of nowhere. I ride the bike hard on Colorado 4wd roads. BTW I think it pays to get well known bearing brands i.e. FAG SKF TIMKEN etc. Steve --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "kcuf_oohay_666 " wrote:

> How long do the stock wheel bearings last? I have 25,000+ miles on

my

> A15. I saw in Dennis Kirk that they only cost $3.00 each. Should I > replace them or are the stock ones good for another 25K miles? > > Thanks > > Craig

[Guest]

And along those lines...NAPA, CarQuest, etc. stores carry such bearings. All you have to do is have them crossreference the number that is on either the outer race or seal area. I'd suggest giving them additional grease before putting them in the hub. NAPA's are top brands, cost less than buying mail order. Autozone and Checker prolly won't have them. The first time I took off my rear wheel, noticed that the inner bearing didn't have a seal on one side. With dust and rubber dampener grime being able to get in there, figured it was time to change (at least) that one to a completely sealed bearing. Swede --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Green " wrote:

> Craig, > > I replaced mine around 21,000 due to excessive sideways play in

the

> rear wheel. The 3 bearings were still OK but definitely had more

than

> normally "slop" in them, and I did not want a problem in the

middle

> of nowhere. I ride the bike hard on Colorado 4wd roads. > > BTW I think it pays to get well known bearing brands i.e. FAG SKF > TIMKEN etc. > > Steve > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "kcuf_oohay_666 > " wrote: > > How long do the stock wheel bearings last? I have 25,000+ miles

on

> my > > A15. I saw in Dennis Kirk that they only cost $3.00 each. Should

I

> > replace them or are the stock ones good for another 25K miles? > > > > Thanks > > > > Craig

[Allan Patton]

> How long do the stock wheel bearings last? I have 25,000+ miles on my > A15.

My A14 has 57,000 miles, the bearings looked and felt fine last time I changed a tire. It's been ridden in a lot of rain. Water crossings deeper than the hub, and car washes can shorten the life of the wheel bearings. Allan

[bob kaub]

The KLR uses standard 6000 series metric bearings. Prefixes and suffixes can vary by manufacturer and/or supplier. What you really need to ask for is a bearing with SEALS on both sides. You want seals, not shields, and it's easy to confuse the two. Sealed bearings are factory lubed for life and far more waterproof than any other type. I also recommend avoiding bearings made in China for quality and durability reasons. They are a lot cheaper to buy but they don't seem to last. Thanks. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]