nklr [dsn_klr650] cyanide gas nklr

[stevedyer]

Fork boots on the A13 are starting to split. I'm guessing all quality replacement boot options require pulling the forks? Anyone here successfully removed a D607 from the rear wheel with a couple of short tire irons, or for that matter, two irons plus three 6" C-clamps and a bench vise? My enduro-riding bud came by the house this morning to show me how easily this is done, having changed off-road cycle tires before. I yanked the rear wheel off and we dove right in, figuring to spoon on the new TKC80's in no time. After 40 minutes of grunting and sweating we gave up, the D607 still in place and smirking at our feeble efforts. Breaking the bead wasn't that hard, but we simply could not get enough of the opposite side bead into the wheel recess so we could pry that tough tire off the wheel. The weather was so nice we just aired the rear tire back up, remounted it and went for a trail ride along the river, so the day wasn't a total loss. Steve

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "stevedyer" wrote:

> > > Fork boots on the A13 are starting to split. I'm guessing all quality > replacement boot options require pulling the forks? > > Anyone here successfully removed a D607 from the rear wheel with a couple of > short tire irons, or for that matter, two irons plus three 6" C-clamps and a > bench vise? My enduro-riding bud came by the house this morning to show > me how easily this is done, having changed off-road cycle tires before. I > yanked the rear wheel off and we dove right in, figuring to spoon on the new > TKC80's in no time. After 40 minutes of grunting and sweating we gave up, > the D607 still in place and smirking at our feeble efforts. Breaking the > bead wasn't that hard, but we simply could not get enough of the opposite > side bead into the wheel recess so we could pry that tough tire off the > wheel. > > The weather was so nice we just aired the rear tire back up, remounted it > and went for a trail ride along the river, so the day wasn't a total loss. > >

Was the other bead still seated on the rim?

[stevedyer]

Nope. Both sides were freed from the outer rim, we just couldn't keep them that way. Couldn't get the sidewall(s) to collapse enough toward the inner part of the wheel, even just one side, to allow enough slack to get more than a sliver of bead over the edge of the rim. Longer irons, more irons, warmer tire, better technique - all that would probably have made a difference. After pushing and pulling on the tire for awhile it was his impression that the 607 was a lot stiffer tire than what he was accustomed to - typical offroad knobbies on trail bikes. Just wondered if this was the case or not. Steve

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jud Jones" Was the other bead still seated on the rim?

[E.L. Green]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "stevedyer" wrote:

> Fork boots on the A13 are starting to split. I'm guessing all

quality

> replacement boot options require pulling the forks?

Yep. Good time to change your fork oil too. I'm sure it's degenerated to pretty much water by now.

> Anyone here successfully removed a D607 from the rear wheel with a

couple of

> short tire irons, or for that matter, two irons plus three 6"

C-clamps and a

> bench vise?

Bwahaha! Uhm, yeah, it's pretty much the same as a TKC-80 pain-wise. I use one of the C-clamps to scrunch one place in the tire *way* down. I then jam wrenches into the gap to hold that one spot down, place the whole assembly on some short 2x4 scraps under the tire (so that the wheel is supported only by the tire), then get to work grunting with the tire irons -- two tire irons and a combo axle wrench/tire spoon (Motion Pro). I may try to pull the opposite side away from the side I'm working on to suck it into that valley. All in all, it's a major PITA to work with these stiff street-oriented tires... but the way they handle on the highway certainly makes it worth if you're heading for a long road trip!

[dooden]

Steve I have had pretty good luck using C-Clamps to pinch the tire together so I could get the bead started. Clmap it over the tire or through the rim onto the tire, kinda depends on the size of the C-Clamp. Might be rethinking that soon, last fall I added a D606 to the front and a fresh K270 to the rear, but I was still working at the cycle dealer then. (AKA shop, machine, spoons up the ying-yang, now that I am back in the Chicago area I am back to blood letting and swearing I am sure.) Unless I can find a cheap set of wheels/hubs and make up another set of tires for pavement usage and leave the knobbies on a set for playing. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "stevedyer" wrote: > > Nope. Both sides were freed from the outer rim, we just couldn't keep them > that way. Couldn't get the sidewall(s) to collapse enough toward the inner > part of the wheel, even just one side, to allow enough slack to get more > than a sliver of bead over the edge of the rim. Longer irons, more > irons, warmer tire, better technique - all that would probably have made a > difference. After pushing and pulling on the tire for awhile it was his > impression that the 607 was a lot stiffer tire than what he was accustomed > to - typical offroad knobbies on trail bikes. Just wondered if this was > the case or not. > > Steve > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jud Jones" > > Was the other bead still seated on the rim? >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Harry Seifert" wrote:

> > From what little chemistry I remember and all the hazmat classes

I've had

> to take, I think hydrogen cyanide can be generated with this mix.

As we

> all know, Baking Soda has a pH that is higher than 7 (neutral);

IIRC the pH

> of sodium bicarbonate is 10. The principle ingredient of

superglues,

> methacrylate, is acetone cyanohydrin, an organic acid with a pH of

2, with

> a component of hydrogen cyanide. During the reaction of acid and

base, the

> sodium in the bicarb will bond with a spare hydrogen or two, form a

water

> molecule or two and release the cyanide radical from its hydrogen

bonds.

> I'm gonna have to dig out some of my old chem texts and do the math

on

> this. > > I have a cyanide detection device at work; if I can remember to try

it,

> I'll mix the two together and see what the detector says. I don't

remember

> getting the "almond" smell from working with Superglues in the

past. The

> "almond" smell is present a very, very low concentrations (almost

less than

> lethal) of cyanide. This could be almost as much fun as dropping

pennies

> into beakers of hydrochloric acid, muriatic comes to mind, just for

the

> pretty green gas it gives off. The pretty green gas is pure

chlorine, and

> extremely noxious substance. It is detectable by the human nose at

0.014

> ppm (parts per million), 46 ppm will destroy your lungs and mucous > membranes, 430 ppm will kill you in 25 - 30 minutes and levels

above 1,000

> ppm will kill instantly, so definitely don't try this one at home

little

> buckaroos. > > Buddy > bseifert71@... >

Buddy, You trying to put me out of work? revmaaatin.