sprockets - was drilling the carb slide

[Matt Brooks]

Hey everyone. I have a quick question. I am going to drill the carb slide vacuum hole and have seen some people say to drill the hole to 1/8" and others say to drill to 7/64". Which size do you guys suggest??? Thanks, Matt B. 06 GREEN Antioch, IL

[a14@att.net]

DynoJet recommends a #30 bit which if I recall is about 0.030" larger than 1/8". Walt

> Hey everyone. I have a quick question. I am going to drill the carb > slide vacuum hole and have seen some people say to drill the hole to > 1/8" and others say to drill to 7/64". Which size do you guys > suggest??? > > Thanks, > Matt B. > 06 GREEN > Antioch, IL >

[Michael Nelson]

On Fri, Feb 22, 2008 at 04:31:31PM +0000, a14@... wrote:

> DynoJet recommends a #30 bit which if I recall is about 0.030" > larger than 1/8".

I would err to the safe side. 7/64 (which is what I did and seems fine), and you can always drill it bigger later. It's hard to drill it smaller. Having that hole too large can result in the slide "chattering" up and down. Michael -- "It ain't those parts of the Bible that I can't understand that bother me, it is the parts that I do understand." -- Mark Twain San Francisco, CA

[a14@att.net]

> > DynoJet recommends a #30 bit which if I recall is about 0.030" > > larger than 1/8". > > I would err to the safe side. 7/64 (which is what I did and seems fine), > and you can always drill it bigger later. It's hard to drill it smaller. > Having that hole too large can result in the slide "chattering" up and down. > > Michael >

I did mine with the #30 drill and the slide does not chatter. As a matter of fact it makes so much torque it rips the knobs right off the tires. It can climb gentle slopes at 1,000 RPM without lugging. It is not one of those 685's either. Those that have failed to discover how to unleash this kind of power from the KLR engine will say it is impossible but I know that they have simply failed. Also it is not very hard to "drill it smaller" if you know how. Walt Just quicker than you that's all.

[Luc Legrain]

What are the benefits of of doing this ? Is it just when you re-jet or can you do it on stock ? --- a14@... wrote:

> > > DynoJet recommends a #30 bit which if I recall > is about 0.030" > > > larger than 1/8". > > > > I would err to the safe side. 7/64 (which is what > I did and seems fine), > > and you can always drill it bigger later. It's > hard to drill it smaller. > > Having that hole too large can result in the slide > "chattering" up and down. > > > > Michael > > > > I did mine with the #30 drill and the slide does not > chatter. > As a matter of fact it makes so much torque it rips > the knobs > right off the tires. It can climb gentle slopes at > 1,000 RPM > without lugging. It is not one of those 685's > either. Those > that have failed to discover how to unleash this > kind of > power from the KLR engine will say it is impossible > but I know > that they have simply failed. Also it is not very > hard to > "drill it smaller" if you know how. > > Walt > Just quicker than you that's all. > > >

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[a14@att.net]

Original message from Luc Legrain:

> What are the benefits of of doing this ? Is it just > when you re-jet or can you do it on stock ?

It makes the slide lift quicker when the throttle is opened so it makes power without being buffered. The downside is increased fuel consumption with quick twists of the wrist. You can still get good mileage though if you take it easy accelerating. You are in control instead of the slide. It can be done without rejetting unless it was too lean to begin with. Generally if it ran good before it will run better afterward with about a 2% hit on gas mileage on average. Walt

[Luc Legrain]

Is there a step by step procedure somewhere ? If not can you explain ? Thanks --- a14@... wrote:

> Original message from Luc Legrain: > > What are the benefits of of doing this ? Is it > just > > when you re-jet or can you do it on stock ? > > It makes the slide lift quicker when the throttle is > opened so it makes power without being buffered. > The downside is increased fuel consumption with > quick > twists of the wrist. You can still get good mileage > though if you take it easy accelerating. You are in > > control instead of the slide. > > It can be done without rejetting unless it was too > lean to begin with. Generally if it ran good before > it will run better afterward with about a 2% hit on > gas mileage on average. > > Walt > > >

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[a14@att.net]

You can download the DynoJet instructions here: http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/2144.pdf> Walt from Luc Legrain>:

> Is there a step by step procedure somewhere ? If > not can you explain ? > Thanks >

[Luc Legrain]

Thanks.. that'll be my "can't ride today project" --- a14@... wrote:

> You can download the DynoJet instructions here: > http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/2144.pdf> > > Walt > > > from Luc Legrain>: > > Is there a step by step procedure somewhere ? If > > not can you explain ? > > Thanks > > > > >

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[Ronald Criswell]

I used the bit in the Dynajet kit and was happy with the results. I don't still have the bit but 1 / 8 seems too big to me. Criswell

On Feb 22, 2008, at 9:51 AM, Matt Brooks wrote: > Hey everyone. I have a quick question. I am going to drill the carb > slide vacuum hole and have seen some people say to drill the hole to > 1/8" and others say to drill to 7/64". Which size do you guys > suggest??? > > Thanks, > Matt B. > 06 GREEN > Antioch, IL > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]