wheel
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chain master link?
What's the groups word on master links, rivet or clip? Old rider, mostly pavement, light on the throttle, if any of that matters! Thanks.
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chain master link?
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:15:20 -0700 (PDT) Robert Wayne
writes:
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Robert, Age doesn't matter to a master link. : ) I like the clip type as I want to easily be able to mess with it on the trail if needed. The only thing I've ever needed to do on the trail is replace the clip that went missing. Took longer to figure out where the spare was than to install it. Since then I've cleaned the side plates and clip well and then put a dab of RTV on the clip. Steve Rankin is doing the same thing since he also lost a clip. Neither of us has lost a clip using the RTV. If you get a riveted type you'll probably have to pull the swing arm to remove and install the chain since you probably won't have the tools to undo the riveted type master link and then also rerivet it. But... if you haven't lubed your rear suspension linkage bearings you could replace the chain and lube them at the same time. Either way, lubing the rear suspension linkage bearings is a good idea on any KLR. They just don't have much grease in them from the factory. Just my thoughts. Oh, you'll also probably need a sideplate press to install the sideplate on the clip type master link. The holes and posts are an interference fit. I think I posted a few pictures in the group photo section of one I made. I also remember posting a note to the group on how I made it. That was probably in spring of 2006 since it was for Steve while he was prepping his KLR for De Tour. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT> What's the groups word on master links, rivet or clip? Old rider, > mostly pavement, light on the throttle, if any of that matters! > Thanks.
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chain master link?
On Tue, Oct 23, 2007 at 09:45:16PM -0600, Jeff Saline wrote:
I do the same, with the same success.> it. Since then I've cleaned the side plates and clip well and then put a > dab of RTV on the clip. Steve Rankin is doing the same thing since he > also lost a clip. Neither of us has lost a clip using the RTV.
I have one, but if you don't you can do it using a nut and a pair of visegrips. I'll explain if you can't visualize how. -- "It's not what I don't understand about religion that bothers me, it's what I do understand." -- Mark Twain San Francisco, CA> Oh, you'll also probably need a sideplate press to install the sideplate > on the clip type master link. The holes and posts are an interference > fit.
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chain master link?
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne wrote:
the throttle, if any of that matters! Thanks.> > What's the groups word on master links, rivet or clip? Old rider, mostly pavement, light on
I've never had a problem with a clip link, but i bought a chain at Arrowhead a few years ago, and Fred had the rivet tool, so I went with it. Since then I have acquired the rivet tool, so that's what I use.> __________________________________________________
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chain master link?
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote:
mostly pavement, light on> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Robert Wayne wrote: > > > > What's the groups word on master links, rivet or clip? Old rider,
Arrowhead a few years ago,> the throttle, if any of that matters! Thanks. > > __________________________________________________ > > I've never had a problem with a clip link, but i bought a chain at
acquired the rivet tool, so> and Fred had the rivet tool, so I went with it. Since then I have
Yeah, me too. My last chain I bought (an X-Ring from Fred) I had him rivet it together at his shop. Works good, lasts a long time. revmaaatin.> that's what I use. >
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wheel
Ron,
The objective I was trying to achieve with the rim was better "float" in
sand - the KLR is pretty heavy in soft stuff, better footprint in tight
corners, and (I hate to say this) compatability with my buddy's F650 BMW
(also has a 19" front wheel).
The 19" wheel and MEFO explorer tires are the most recent additions on front
suspension mod's. I also have progressive springs (2" spacer) Race Tech Gold
valves and am using 15w fork oil. I've got about 2,500 miles on the wheel
and tires. The longest ride so far has been from San Diego to Lordsburg, NM,
up the Continental Divide (CD) to Grants, NM, then back to San Diego, so
I've got a pretty good range of riding on this setup. So far I really like
it. The wider/bigger footprint helps in sand and in the twisties. I've got
the 320mm brake rotor and could feel some improvement in braking also. Just
east of Winslow, AZ, there was some road construction where I had to throw
the anchor out to avoid an indecisive driver. Very stable "panic" stop from
hiway speeds with a full load.
I am getting just a very little bit of oscillation occasionally at about
+85mph (actual, not indicated). The oscillation has always been on CA
concrete superslab with rain grooves. I strongly suspect that it's the MEFO
tires. I'm sure that I didn't have the oscillation before I put the
wheel/tires on. I'm planning on increasing the spacer above the springs by
1/4". I may not have put a big enough spacer in for my weight when I put in
the progressive springs. Whether the spacer helps or not, I'll give the
Eagle Mfg fork brace a try next.
I really don't feel that the smaller wheel compromised clearance in the back
country. We did quite a bit of low gear, very steep rock and crumbly rock
with a number of water crossings. Really a blast of a ride. I did bottom out
a few times, but that was on dips at about 45mph with me and all my gear - a
full load. The real problem (IMO) is that the bike needs progressive springs
- both front and rear. I've been talking with Mike Cowlishaw and am planning
to rebuild the rear shock and put in the Race Tech valve and a progressive
spring. Cheaper than some solutions, but should be good quality results.
I've heard that raising links will solve the bottom-out problem, but I'm a
little challenged (inseam 30") anyway, so I don't want to make the bike
taller.
Glad to answer any other questions...
Regards,
Chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]> > On 10/22/07, Ronald Criswell wrote: > > > How do you like that 19 X 2.5? Seems like a good combo. Does it handle > > good both off road and on? > > > > Criswell > > On Oct 21, 2007, at 6:34 PM, c cooper wrote: > > > > I replaced my front rim 21" x 1.75", with a 19" x 2.5" Excel rim, and > > stainless spokes from Buchanan earlier this year I had never laced a rim > > before, but lace, true, torque on the stock hub was really pretty easy. > > Just > > takes a little time and patience. > > > > http://www.buchananspokes.com/ Excel_dimp.htmhttp://www.buchananspokes.com/Excel_dimp.htm> > > > > I wanted a setup that would be good for a fair amount of trail riding, > > so I > > didn't consider using tubeless rims. > > > > Chuck > > > > On 10/21/07, rockiedog2 < rockiedog2@... > > > wrote: > > > > > > Guys > > > I want to replace the front wheel/tire with a shorter fatter one about > > > > > the size of the rear. Does anybody know of a replacement like this? I > > > also would like to go tubeless front/rear by changing to wheels > > similar > > > to a VStrom or such. Anybody got info on this? > > > Thanks Joe > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
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