2003 klr 650 for sale

DSN_KLR650
Brad Davis
Posts: 496
Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2000 8:06 am

springs

Post by Brad Davis » Wed Feb 07, 2001 10:01 am

Is it just as good to insert spacers in the fork caps to tighten up the springs instead of installing progressive type springs? What should the dimensions of the spacers be? I am on a limited budget right now and would like to make modifications as inexpensively as possible. Thanks, Brad A9 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/

BCSavWill@cs.com
Posts: 311
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2000 3:01 pm

springs

Post by BCSavWill@cs.com » Wed Feb 07, 2001 12:00 pm

Hi, I suggested a friend of mine try this very thing. He preloaded his springs 1 inch and said it made a difference. Give it a try and see. He used some conduit to do it. Measure the stock spacer and add 1 inch. Put a fender washer on top of the spacer too to protect the cap. Something I believe Kawasaki should have done in the first place. Usual disclaimers. Regards Brian A14 D17 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mike Reaves
Posts: 53
Joined: Fri May 05, 2000 10:21 am

springs

Post by Mike Reaves » Wed Feb 07, 2001 2:18 pm

I went to Home Depot and got a PVC joiner. I guess landscaping guys use them to join two pieces of pipe. Anyway, each is 1.5 inches long. They seem to be working out pretty good. Cost was around 30 cents....
>>> "Brad Davis" 2/7/2001 8:01:31 AM >>>
Is it just as good to insert spacers in the fork caps to tighten up the springs instead of installing progressive type springs? What should the dimensions of the spacers be? I am on a limited budget right now and would like to make modifications as inexpensively as possible. Thanks, Brad A9 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. http://auctions.yahoo.com/ Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Dale_Johnson@ahm.honda.com
Posts: 152
Joined: Fri Apr 07, 2000 2:42 pm

springs

Post by Dale_Johnson@ahm.honda.com » Wed Feb 07, 2001 2:27 pm

What was the process to add them? How long did it take? is it as easy as it sounds? Do you notice an improvement? If so, how? Dale Y2K KLR 22222 miles yesterday.
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Mike Reaves" wrote: > I went to Home Depot and got a PVC joiner. I guess landscaping guys use them to join two pieces of pipe. Anyway, each is 1.5 inches long. They seem to be working out pretty good. Cost was around 30 cents.... > > >>> "Brad Davis" 2/7/2001 8:01:31 AM >>> > Is it just as good to insert spacers in the fork caps > to tighten up the springs instead of installing > progressive type springs? What should the dimensions > of the spacers be? I am on a limited budget right now > and would like to make modifications as inexpensively > as possible. > > Thanks, > Brad > A9 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@s... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

BCSavWill@cs.com
Posts: 311
Joined: Fri Aug 04, 2000 3:01 pm

springs

Post by BCSavWill@cs.com » Wed Feb 07, 2001 3:54 pm

Hi, Lift the front off the ground. Undo bar clamps. Rest bars back towards tank Slacken top triple clamp bolts. Bleed off any air pressure in forks. Remove fork caps. Take out spacer. Measure it's length. Cut whatever (plastic pipe etc) longer for your pre load, more than an 1 1/2 and you won't be able to get the cap back on. Put it back on top of spring. Replace cap and torque. Torque top clamp bolts. Replace bars. Finished. Think that covers it all. You could change the oil while you are at it and check stem bearing tightness too. Think about w15 maybe. About 1 hour or less. Yes it is as easy as it gets. The forks feel stiffer, I have not compared it but a friend of mine said it was worth while. Should improve the tendancy for the front to wash out on the dirt and make the front feel less vague. (my opinions) I have progressive's fitted, which are very good, I think you might get about 1/4 to 1/2 way there depending on your weight. Regards Brian A14 D17 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mike Reaves
Posts: 53
Joined: Fri May 05, 2000 10:21 am

springs

Post by Mike Reaves » Wed Feb 07, 2001 5:13 pm

Actually, I also added the progressive springs at the same time. The job was amazingly simple. When I put in the new springs the directions say to cut down the original spacer so thats when I just popped in the PVC. All you need to do is remove the cap from the top of the fork (loosen the top pinch bolt first), remove the stock spacer (standard is 5 inches I think), and add spacers. When I did mine all I wanted was 3 inches of preload so I stacked 2 joiners. In your case, since you want to go to 6 inches I might just buy a hunk of PVC pipe and cut it to fit. I'm not sure I would want to stack 4 joiners, but it may work... Oh, only remove one fork cap at a time. If you remove both then you will need to jack up the front of the bike...
>>> 2/7/2001 12:27:21 PM >>>
What was the process to add them? How long did it take? is it as easy as it sounds? Do you notice an improvement? If so, how? Dale Y2K KLR 22222 miles yesterday.
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Mike Reaves" wrote: > I went to Home Depot and got a PVC joiner. I guess landscaping guys use them to join two pieces of pipe. Anyway, each is 1.5 inches long. They seem to be working out pretty good. Cost was around 30 cents.... > > >>> "Brad Davis" 2/7/2001 8:01:31 AM >>> > Is it just as good to insert spacers in the fork caps > to tighten up the springs instead of installing > progressive type springs? What should the dimensions > of the spacers be? I am on a limited budget right now > and would like to make modifications as inexpensively > as possible. > > Thanks, > Brad > A9 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices. > http://auctions.yahoo.com/ > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@s... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Brad Davis
Posts: 496
Joined: Fri Apr 28, 2000 8:06 am

springs

Post by Brad Davis » Thu Feb 08, 2001 6:21 am

I hadn't thought of the spring binding up. If I remember correctly from my school days the spring rate, k (lb/in) is linear unless you are dealing with a progressive type spring. For example, one with unsymmetrical coil windings. The stocker is a linear spring, isn't it? Your binding theory makes sense but I am guessing that the added 1 to 1.5 inch of pre-compression won't get me into the danger zone. Anyone with more experience care to comment? Brad A9 --- dirtbiker651@... wrote:
> Brad, inserting a longer spacer may work fine, but > from what I > recall, the proper way to do it is to figure out how > long you want > your spacer to be, then cut off some of the spring. > Example: If the > stock spacer is 3 inches, and you want to replace it > with a 6inch > spacer, you cut off 3inches of spring. The reason > you do this is to > keep the spring from binding. If you just add the > longer spacer, you > are cramming the coils closer together and they may > completely touch > each other, thus becoming a solid steel tube. By > cutting the spring, > you are increasing the spring rate. If you want to > cut the spring, > it should be taken to a metal shop and cut with a > chop saw. A hacksaw > won't give you a clean cut. > Then again, if all you want is a slight increase, > then you probably > can get away with just adding the longer spacer. > If you notice, a spring with a softer rate has coils > that are closer > together than a spring with a stiffer rate. > I feel like Kevin Cameron!!!! LOL > I wish........ >
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Chris Krok
Posts: 1166
Joined: Wed May 10, 2000 10:33 am

springs

Post by Chris Krok » Wed Aug 29, 2001 9:03 am

> >This whole thing has gotten me curious, I still have my old stock > >springs. I'm going to compress one flat for a couple of days and see > >what happens. > > In order for the springs to "take a set", wouldn't one have to > compress (ie, bend the steel) them beyond the metal's yielding > point?
Well, it's possible to have creep, but that's usually only an issue at high temperature. I'm just trying to put the whole thing to rest. C -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok Project Engineer, Adaptive Wall Wind Tunnel Graduate Aeronautical Laboratories, California Institute of Technology MS 205-45 Phone: 626.395.4794 Pasadena, CA 91125 Fax: 626.449.2677

artizun
Posts: 26
Joined: Fri Nov 21, 2003 2:58 pm

springs

Post by artizun » Fri Dec 19, 2003 4:39 pm

I bought a corbin off of ebay last night dished for 250.00 shipped. I had cut the original seat down but found it uncomfortable on rough dirt roads. Bought those maps today too. I bought the front springs from happy trails. What fork oil do you recommend for a 200+ weight. Thanks

Stu
Posts: 399
Joined: Wed Dec 20, 2000 5:03 pm

springs

Post by Stu » Fri Dec 19, 2003 4:52 pm

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "artizun" wrote:
> I bought a corbin off of ebay last night dished for 250.00 shipped.
I
> had cut the original seat down but found it uncomfortable on rough > dirt roads. Bought those maps today too. I bought the front springs > from happy trails. What fork oil do you recommend for a 200+
weight.
> Thanks
10wt

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