air intake mesh

[Fall Guy]

Hi folks sorry about the newbie question. I had a look at my chain the other day and there is a noticable sag along the bottom. I'm thinkin that the chain should be a straight line on the horizontal. What is the proper amount of "give" in the chain, should it be able to touch the swing arm when pushed up from the bottom or is the give less than that...? Is it best to measure the give from the bottom up or from the top of the chain...? Thanks in advance eh!

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fall Guy" wrote:

> > Hi folks sorry about the newbie question. I had a look at my chain the > other day and there is a noticable sag along the bottom. I'm thinkin > that the chain should be a straight line on the horizontal. > > What is the proper amount of "give" in the chain, should it be able to > touch the swing arm when pushed up from the bottom or is the give less > than that...? > > Is it best to measure the give from the bottom up or from the top of > the chain...? > > Thanks in advance eh! >

With the bike on the sidestand, the chain should just barely touch the swingarm if you push it up at the middle of the lower run.

[Mike Peplinski]

Here's what it boils down to. The chain must be loose enougn that it does not bind at the tightest point and not so loose that it jumps around and beats things up at its loosest point. With the best suspension technology the chain does not remain at a constant length through the swing arm cycle. The rear sprocket gets further from the countershaft as it is compressed and the chain tightens. When your suspension if fully compressed it must not be tight. Thats it in a nutshell. There are a couple of ways to fully compress the suspension. I'm heavy enough that I can lay on the bike and bottom it out. This is the tightest point. Whatever is left for slack, well thats the way it is. If you use Kawasaki's guidelines you'll be fine. It doesn't matter whether you measure the top of bottom chain.

>From: "Fall Guy" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Proper chain tension...? >Date: Thu, 06 Sep 2007 01:31:48 -0000 > >Hi folks sorry about the newbie question. I had a look at my chain the >other day and there is a noticable sag along the bottom. I'm thinkin >that the chain should be a straight line on the horizontal. > >What is the proper amount of "give" in the chain, should it be able to >touch the swing arm when pushed up from the bottom or is the give less >than that...? > >Is it best to measure the give from the bottom up or from the top of >the chain...? > >Thanks in advance eh! > > > >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > >

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[Michael Martin]

Hi FG, Per my A19 owner's manual, "Set the motorcycle up on its side stand. "Rotate the rear wheel to find the position where the chain is tightest, measure the maximum chain slack by pulling up and pushing down the chain midway between the engine sprocket and rear wheel sprocket" The illustration shows the movement of the lower chain run of 50 - 65 mm (2.0 - 2.6 in). HTH, Mike Martin, Louisville, KY --- Fall Guy wrote:

> What is the proper amount of "give" in the chain, should it be able to > touch the swing arm when pushed up from the bottom or is the give less > than that...? > > Is it best to measure the give from the bottom up or from the top of > the chain...?

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[Ronald Criswell]

The way I understand it .... the easy chain tension check is with the bike on the side stand, you should be able to push the chain up a just touch the swing arm mid way between the counter shaft and the rear axle. Criswell

On Sep 5, 2007, at 8:31 PM, Fall Guy wrote: > Hi folks sorry about the newbie question. I had a look at my chain the > other day and there is a noticable sag along the bottom. I'm thinkin > that the chain should be a straight line on the horizontal. > > What is the proper amount of "give" in the chain, should it be able to > touch the swing arm when pushed up from the bottom or is the give less > than that...? > > Is it best to measure the give from the bottom up or from the top of > the chain...? > > Thanks in advance eh! > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[C COOPER]

My understanding is.... All the previous posts are correct. I just have the burning need to emphasize the point that if the chain is too tight it can cause damage to the output shaft bearings which can result in an engine oil leak at the output shaft. The two possible conditions are that the chain will be too loose, or too tight. If the chain is too loose, the sprockets will wear prematurely. If it's way too loose, you can probably damage some of the frame, engine, and suspension components. If it's too tight, you probably won't notice until you start hearing funny bearing noises or see a puddle of oil develop right below the output shaft. With that in mind, I like to check for the condition that's likely to do the most damage most quickly. The way I've found to keep me out of trouble is - Set the shock adjustment to (1) the lowest tension setting. - Standing on the right side of the bike, facing the bike, as far back as I can get, using all the body weight/leverage I can muster, lay over the seat. - With my left hand, grab the bottom of the swing arm and pull up, further loading/compressing the rear suspension. - With my right hand, check to see if there's any slack in the chain. There should be just a little bit. If there's no slack, it's too tight!!! Doesn't take much. The chain will stretch slightly as it warms up. - Adjust as necessary - I've found that the adjustment marks on my bike are off just slightly. The way I discovered this was: - When I adjust the chain I first sight down both sides of the front wheel to line it up with the rear wheel. - I then sight down the rear wheel to the front wheel to make sure it's straight. - Once the rear wheel is in line with the front wheel, check the adjustment marks. If they're the same on both sides, you can rely on them in the future. If not, you may want to mark one for future reference. - Readjust your shock tension setting. - Fully test the adjustment by getting the chain dirty.... ;~) Regards, Chuck

On 9/6/07, Ronald Criswell wrote: > The way I understand it .... the easy chain tension check is with the > bike on the side stand, you should be able to push the chain up a > just touch the swing arm mid way between the counter shaft and the > rear axle. > > Criswell > On Sep 5, 2007, at 8:31 PM, Fall Guy wrote: > > > Hi folks sorry about the newbie question. I had a look at my chain the > > other day and there is a noticable sag along the bottom. I'm thinkin > > that the chain should be a straight line on the horizontal. > > > > What is the proper amount of "give" in the chain, should it be able to > > touch the swing arm when pushed up from the bottom or is the give less > > than that...? > > > > Is it best to measure the give from the bottom up or from the top of > > the chain...? > > > > Thanks in advance eh! > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Kimosabe]

I removed my air box from the frame to make it easier to work on and clean. I used a Dremel and a cutting disc to remove the screen down to the plastic. Then I smoothed the cut edge with sandpaper and washed and dried the air box inside and out before returning it to the frame. No mesh fragments or plastic bits were left free or in the air stream to be sucked in. I didn't see a need for J-B Weld or anything similar. In fact, as much as I swear by J-B, the area is hard to monitor and I didn't want the risk of it flaking off over the years and entering the engine. So far, so good. Steve in Niceville

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "c cooper" wrote: > > I cut mine out a while back and like the results. I know there are many > others out there who have done the same. If you maintain the bike properly, > i.e., adjust valves, keep the carb in good operating order so that it > doesn't leak fuel past the needle/seat I believe you should be ok. There are > usually other problems if the bike is back firing and/or if there's enough > residual oil or fuel in the airbox to create a fire hazard. > > If you cut the screen out, no matter how careful you are, there will be > little wire ends sticking out of the air box - where the screen was molded > into the box. I trimmed these back as much as I could, pressed them to lay > down flat against the airbox, and then covered them with a little JB Weld. > Finished the job nicely. Left me with peace of mind that I wouldn't find a > little piece of wire lodged between the piston/ring/cylinder wall. > > Regards, > > Chuck > > On 9/6/07, David Giuliani wrote: > > > > I've been thinking of tinkering with the carbuerator fuel mix and > > opening up the air box. I mentioned my intensions to a friend and when > > he heard that this might include removing the screen at the carb he > > said don't do it. That screen is meant to dissipate possible backfires > > that could fry the filter and maybe more. He said to just open the box > > up with cut-outs then adjust the fuel/air mix. Dave > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >