2004 klr 650 for sale! $3,750

[wingrj@aol.com]

In a message dated 3/17/02 19:23:08, drdandc@... writes:

>where the first >iron is hooked either under the sprocket or hooked in a spoke

Where are you guys getting the tire irons that have the hooks on them? They used to be popular some years ago, and I lost mine on the trail. I cannot find anymore anywhere. Viewed best in the text font 'Courier' ___ /___\ (!* *!) __\^-^/__ / ___ \ _/ |___| \_ (__\=/ \=/__) O=|_[ ]_|=O \.---./ | = = | | =.-.= | !_|| ||_! =|| ||= | | | | _____`-'_____ Wish I could go through life like I go through traffic

[Don Kime]

I've read w/ much interest what has been written here and what I can research on changing tubed tires on the go. In my case, the interest is not so much on changing a tire, but on patching or changing a tube if necessary. None of this is completely foreign to me, as I've changed all my own tires for a number of years. However, I haven't changed a tubed tire for many, many years, and I thought I never would again till this KLR bug bit! My questions: I'm used to using a bench type bead breaker at home. What do I need to reliably break a bead in the field - will one of the $15 JCWhitney deals work, should I just use a 5" C-clamp, or is there some other recommendation? If I'm using a breaker that clamps over both beads (both sides), and I just compress it down it would seem that it's just dumb luck which side bead will break. Is there a way to "manage" this? I can see a situation where I might want to break just one side or the other. If you want both beads broken, how do you break the 2nd? I just use a soap concentrate to seat tires at home, but on the road space and volume are precious. What tire lube/cleaner are folks using and how much do you haul along? The irons that I use at home are steel, about 16" long, with a narrow end and compound curve on one end and a gentle curve on the other. They are great for reaching in and "grabbing" a tubeless tire bead. They are definitely not "spoons." Will this cause me tube pinching problems, and do I indeed need a spoon type iron? I hope not, as I always had trouble grabbing the bead w/ a spoon. If I must go to a spoon, whose do you carry? Seems to me I remember partially inflating the tube before prying the 2nd bead onto the wheel to minimize pinching the tube. Is this what you do, and do you have other "technique" tips? I'm going to mount a couple of tires here for practice before I head to never-never land. It would be nice to never face the field changing issue, but I suspect at some point I will. All tips greatly appreciated! TIA & Ride safe, Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach dkime@... http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/

[thad_carey]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Don Kime wrote:

> I've read w/ much interest what has been written here and what I

can

> research on changing tubed tires on the go. In my case, the

interest is

> not so much on changing a tire, but on patching or changing a tube

if

> necessary. > > None of this is completely foreign to me, as I've changed all my

own tires

> for a number of years. However, I haven't changed a tubed tire for

many,

> many years, and I thought I never would again till this KLR bug bit!

> > My questions: I'm used to using a bench type bead breaker at

home. What

> do I need to reliably break a bead in the field - will one of the

$15

> JCWhitney deals work, should I just use a 5" C-clamp, or is there

some

> other recommendation? If I'm using a breaker that clamps over both

beads

> (both sides), and I just compress it down it would seem that it's

just dumb

> luck which side bead will break. Is there a way to "manage" this?

I can

> see a situation where I might want to break just one side or the

other. If

> you want both beads broken, how do you break the 2nd? I just use a

soap

> concentrate to seat tires at home, but on the road space and volume

are

> precious. What tire lube/cleaner are folks using and how much do

you haul

> along? The irons that I use at home are steel, about 16" long,

with a

> narrow end and compound curve on one end and a gentle curve on the > other. They are great for reaching in and "grabbing" a tubeless

tire

> bead. They are definitely not "spoons." Will this cause me tube

pinching

> problems, and do I indeed need a spoon type iron? I hope not, as I

always

> had trouble grabbing the bead w/ a spoon. If I must go to a spoon,

whose

> do you carry? Seems to me I remember partially inflating the tube

before

> prying the 2nd bead onto the wheel to minimize pinching the tube.

Is this

> what you do, and do you have other "technique" tips? > > I'm going to mount a couple of tires here for practice before I

head to

> never-never land. It would be nice to never face the field

changing issue,

> but I suspect at some point I will. All tips greatly appreciated! > > TIA & > Ride safe, > Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 > OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach dkime@c... > http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/

Don, I've never seen a tubed dirt bike tire need a bead breaker. I just removed the OEM Dunlops on my bike, and they were not hard at all. Just a little "lean-on" with the heels of your hands pushes them right in to the rim valley. I've been there with your reference to tubeless tires. They will sometimes get a death grip on the rim. Last night I was wresting with a 12" tubeless trailer tire. I almost didn't even get the bead loose, even with my giant bench vise. I finally got it off the rim but couldn't get the new one on. I've never seen problems like this with dirt bike tubed tires. Tube tires are usually better suited to the wider spoon-end tire irons. I know most of the ones available are those cheap little pointy type. They will work, but if you can find a wider, rounder end, it's safer on the tube and bead. Either at home or on the trail, the biggest tip on changing dirt bike tubes is to constantly work the bead of the tire into the valley of the rim. That applies fairly equally for removal or installation. Doing this gives you more bead material to work with the tire iron. Don't be tempted to dig the tire iron too deeply into the tire. Keeping the tip of the tire iron as close to the lip of the bead lessens the chances of tube pinching. Thad Carey A15 (Barbie hate's flat tires)

[bigfatgreenbike]

ttcarey1@... wrote:

>--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Don Kime wrote: > > > >> In my case, the >> >> >interest is > > >>not so much on changing a tire, but on patching or changing a tube >> >> >if > > >>necessary. >> > Don, I've never seen a tubed dirt bike tire need a bead >breaker. >

I have had tires that were extremely difficult to get off, usually an MT21. Driving around with the valve core out will get one bead loose, but to get the other one off the rim I had to run over the tire with an automobile, and stomp on the other side of the wheel while it was pinned under the car. I've realized later, that with the tire warmed up (fron riding a flat for even a minute or two) you can jam two tire irons between the rim and the bead, then push them apart from each other, levering a tiny part of the bead loose. Then you just work your way around. If one side of the bead is already off, this should finish it. -- Devon Brooklyn, NY A15-Z '01 KLR650 '81 SR500 cafe racer "The truth's not too popular these days....." Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man

[W.V. Doran]

--- Don Kime wrote: What

> do I need to reliably break a bead in the field -

I very rarely ride off road alone so I break the bead using the side stand on another bike. I'm sure others will have additional methods. What tire lube/cleaner are folks using

> and how much do you haul along?

On the road I use WD40 I have Rider Warehouse Titanium tire irons... $$$ yes... but very light and very strong http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store CAT. NO. 3564, 3594 Seems to me I remember partially

> inflating the tube before

I dust the inner tubes with baby powder and store them in zip lock bags...put in just enough air to shape the tube and smooth out the wrinkles.Get a valve stem tool from Jake...saves your fingers and much more. http://www.sagebrushmachine.com/

> prying the 2nd bead onto the wheel to minimize > pinching the tube. Is this > what you do, and do you have other "technique" tips?

Keep the bead on the opposite side of the tire in the center if the rim (valley) WVDoran

> > TIA & > Ride safe, > Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 > OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach > dkime@... > http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/

===== WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/

[bmrbill]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "thad_carey" wrote:

> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Don Kime wrote: > > I've read w/ much interest what has been written here and what I > can > > research on changing tubed tires on the go. In my case, the > interest is > > not so much on changing a tire, but on patching or changing a

tube

> if > > necessary. > > > > None of this is completely foreign to me, as I've changed all my > own tires > > for a number of years. However, I haven't changed a tubed tire

for

> many, > > many years, and I thought I never would again till this KLR bug

bit!

> > > > > My questions: I'm used to using a bench type bead breaker at > home. What > > do I need to reliably break a bead in the field - will one of

the

> $15 > > JCWhitney deals work, should I just use a 5" C-clamp, or is

there

> some > > other recommendation? If I'm using a breaker that clamps over

both

> beads > > (both sides), and I just compress it down it would seem that

it's

> just dumb > > luck which side bead will break. Is there a way to "manage"

this?

> I can > > see a situation where I might want to break just one side or the > other. If > > you want both beads broken, how do you break the 2nd? I just

use a

> soap > > concentrate to seat tires at home, but on the road space and

volume

> are > > precious. What tire lube/cleaner are folks using and how much

do

> you haul > > along? The irons that I use at home are steel, about 16" long, > with a > > narrow end and compound curve on one end and a gentle curve on

the

> > other. They are great for reaching in and "grabbing" a tubeless > tire > > bead. They are definitely not "spoons." Will this cause me

tube

> pinching > > problems, and do I indeed need a spoon type iron? I hope not,

as I

> always > > had trouble grabbing the bead w/ a spoon. If I must go to a

spoon,

> whose > > do you carry? Seems to me I remember partially inflating the

tube

> before > > prying the 2nd bead onto the wheel to minimize pinching the

tube.

> Is this > > what you do, and do you have other "technique" tips? > > > > I'm going to mount a couple of tires here for practice before I > head to > > never-never land. It would be nice to never face the field > changing issue, > > but I suspect at some point I will. All tips greatly

appreciated!

> > > > TIA & > > Ride safe, > > Don Kime - VFR750F, GL1500SE, GL1100, KLR 650 > > OH - M/C Safety Instructor/RiderCoach dkime@c... > > http://forums.delphiforums.com/MCTourer/ > > Don, I've never seen a tubed dirt bike tire need a bead > breaker. I just removed the OEM Dunlops on my bike, and they were > not hard at all. Just a little "lean-on" with the heels of your > hands pushes them right in to the rim valley. I've been there

with

> your reference to tubeless tires. They will sometimes get a death > grip on the rim. Last night I was wresting with a 12" tubeless > trailer tire. I almost didn't even get the bead loose, even with

my

> giant bench vise. I finally got it off the rim but couldn't get

the

> new one on. I've never seen problems like this with dirt bike

tubed

> tires. Tube tires are usually better suited to the wider spoon-

end

> tire irons. I know most of the ones available are those cheap

little

> pointy type. They will work, but if you can find a wider, rounder > end, it's safer on the tube and bead. Either at home or on the > trail, the biggest tip on changing dirt bike tubes is to

constantly

> work the bead of the tire into the valley of the rim. That

applies

> fairly equally for removal or installation. Doing this gives you > more bead material to work with the tire iron. Don't be tempted

to

> dig the tire iron too deeply into the tire. Keeping the tip of

the

> tire iron as close to the lip of the bead lessens the chances of

tube

> pinching. > Thad Carey > A15 (Barbie hate's flat tires)

One of the reasons I don't care for the Bridgestone Trailwing is I thought I was going to have to use a blow torch to get it off the rim. Unfortunately, I was living in the country at the time, and there was no concrete or pavement for assistance. I ran over the bead with my truck, beat it with a sledge hammer, stuck a five ton jack between it and a tractor... I forgot what finally did it. The c-clamp kept slipping to the narrowest point, usually well away from the bead. Since that time, I've bought, and used, the bead breaker from JC Whitney. With the exception of the current Kenda on the back, all of my tires have been tubeless. Bill- A15 with 19.8K, and 4 front tires, and 5 back tires so far...

[W.V. Doran]

Thanks Guy...I've been outside in the sun all day at the FBR Phoenix Open golf tournament here in Scottsdale. I'm blaming it on the sun and not the tasty cold beer. I hope no one adds air to the tube while in the zip lock bag. I meant to say...I dust the inner tubes with baby powder and store them in zip lock bags...before inserting the tube in the tire put in just enough air to shape the tube and smooth out the wrinkles. Get a valve stem tool from Jake...saves your fingers and much more. http://www.sagebrushmachine.com/ --- "Guy B. Young II" wrote:

> Also, add just enough air so the tube takes a shape. > THIS helps eliminate > a pinched tube during installation. > > Guy > > > At 06:22 PM 1/29/04 -0800, W.V. Doran wrote: > > >Keep the bead on the opposite side of the tire in > the > >center if the rim (valley) > > >WVDoran >

===== WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/

[Guy B. Young II]

Also, add just enough air so the tube takes a shape. THIS helps eliminate a pinched tube during installation. Guy At 06:22 PM 1/29/04 -0800, W.V. Doran wrote:

>Keep the bead on the opposite side of the tire in the >center if the rim (valley) >WVDoran

[bigfatgreenbike]

wonholly@... wrote:

> >I have Rider Warehouse Titanium tire irons... >$$$ yes... but very light and very strong >http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store >CAT. NO. 3564, 3594 >

They're pretty damn pricey, but besides not rusting or bending, they are so light they live in my fender bag. And the rounded ends make it hard to pinch a tube. -- Devon Brooklyn, NY A15-Z '01 KLR650 '81 SR500 cafe racer "The truth's not too popular these days....." Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man

[Lujo Bauer]

>> Don, I've never seen a tubed dirt bike tire need a bead >>breaker. >> > > > I have had tires that were extremely difficult to get off, usually an > MT21. Driving around with the valve core out will get one bead loose, > but to get the other one off the rim I had to run over the tire with an > automobile, and stomp on the other side of the wheel while it was pinned > under the car. > > I've realized later, that with the tire warmed up (fron riding a flat > for even a minute or two) you can jam two tire irons between the rim and > the bead, then push them apart from each other, levering a tiny part of > the bead loose. Then you just work your way around. If one side of the > bead is already off, this should finish it.

My rear Karoo was difficult enough to take off that I definitely wouldn't want to tackle it on the road (or trail) without a bead breaker. Oh, I imagine I could get it off if it was really necessary, but not without perhaps dropping the bike on it in various ways and hating every minute of the process. -Lujo