warped 3 is on.... cautionary tale

[Jim Hudson]

I'm thinking about starting some projects that require removal of the fairing, which I've never done before. I looked at the factory manuals and the procedure outlined is to simply remove the screws that attach the fairing to its mount. Seems like there has to be more to it than that. I recently purchased a Clymer manual (thanks to recommendations here) and it calls for unplugging the wiring, then unbolting the fairng frame and removing the fairing & frame as a unit. This makes more sense to me than the factory instructions, unless I misunderstood what I read. What sayest those of you who have done this - remove just the fairing or the fairing/frame assembly? Jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Tue, 13 Feb 2007 16:02:53 -0000 "Jim Hudson" writes:

> > I'm thinking about starting some projects that require removal of > the > fairing, which I've never done before.

SNIP

> I recently purchased a Clymer manual (thanks to recommendations > here) > and it calls for unplugging the wiring, then unbolting the fairng > frame > and removing the fairing & frame as a unit. This makes more sense to > me > than the factory instructions, unless I misunderstood what I read. > What > sayest those of you who have done this - remove just the fairing or > the > fairing/frame assembly? > > Jim

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Jim, I've had fairings off more than twice. : ) Unless you need to remove the bracket I think the easiest way is to remove the three screws you see from the outside, one on each side and one low in the center. Then also unplug the left and right front turn signals and remove two bolts on the inside of the fairing next to the turn signals. The socket you'll need is 10mm. Then the fairing should just slide off to the front. Installation is reverse of removal. Note there are two "extra" wires next to the right turn signal. So when you plug your right front turn signal back in don't plug it into the wrong wires. The "extra" wires are for the city lights which your bike won't have. One is ground and the other is switched power. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[Blake Sobiloff]

On 2/13/07, Jim Hudson wrote:

> I'm thinking about starting some projects that require removal of the > fairing, which I've never done before. I looked at the factory manuals > and the procedure outlined is to simply remove the screws that attach > the fairing to its mount. Seems like there has to be more to it than > that.

Depends on how much access you need. I've been able to get away with just undoing the three black screws around the headlight, and then removing the nuts that hold the turn signals to the fairings. This lets you tilt the fairing forward and get fair access to the instrument cluster. If I need more room at this point I go ahead and unplug the turn signal wires and can remove the entire fairing. As always, YMMV... -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> San Jose, CA (USA)

[Jim Hudson]

Thanks Jeff, Blake and Paul - there seems to be a definite consensus here. I'm glad I asked the question because I was leaning towards the Clymer dirctions. Again - thanks! Jim --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Blake Sobiloff" wrote:

> > On 2/13/07, Jim Hudson bluesman77@... wrote: > > I'm thinking about starting some projects that require removal of

the

> > fairing, which I've never done before. I looked at the factory

manuals

> > and the procedure outlined is to simply remove the screws that

attach

> > the fairing to its mount. Seems like there has to be more to it than > > that. > > Depends on how much access you need. I've been able to get away with > just undoing the three black screws around the headlight, and then > removing the nuts that hold the turn signals to the fairings. This > lets you tilt the fairing forward and get fair access to the > instrument cluster. If I need more room at this point I go ahead and > unplug the turn signal wires and can remove the entire fairing. > > As always, YMMV... > -- > Blake Sobiloff sobiloff@... > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> > http://sobiloff.typepad.com/klr_adventure/> > San Jose, CA (USA) >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Bill Watson]

Jim, I've documented Fairing Removal with photos if you'll scroll down to the bottom of www.xanga.com/watt_man Simply 3 phillip head screws, 2 10mm head bolts, and the four turn signal wires. Hope this helps. Bill --------------------------------- Never Miss an Email Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jim Hudson]

Bill- Thank you very much. As they say, a picture is like a thousand words. The other fine gentlemen did a very good job of describing the procedure, but your photos are definitely a plus. I must ask, do you ever produce the temperature gauge faces for sale? Do you or have you considered producing the thermostat housing for sale. Lastly, if you've not already, when will you publish the procedure for correcting speedometer inaccuracy? Thanks again! Jim

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bill Watson wrote: > > Jim, > > I've documented Fairing Removal with photos if you'll scroll down to the bottom of > > www.xanga.com/watt_man > > Simply 3 phillip head screws, 2 10mm head bolts, and the four turn signal wires. > > Hope this helps. > > Bill > > > --------------------------------- > Never Miss an Email > Stay connected with Yahoo! Mail on your mobile. Get started! > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[CA Stu]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Russell Scott" wrote:

> > I went to the first one, and my KLR caught on fire going up a steep

single

> track with Ca Stu and Craig (leaking petcock). Burned up the air

box, etc.

> Managed to ride it out of there with some serious on-trail repairs

(Thanks

> Stu). Trailered the bike home. Now has 57K on it and runs as good

as ever.

> But it does have a lot of battle scars. I may have to show up just

so they

> all those Beemers can understand you can burn it, kick it, scratch

it, but

> you just can't kill a KLR! > > R

What a blast! I went last year too. This year I want to get there Thursday and ride Friday and Saturday, come home Sunday. Those beemer guys are a really good bunch, they sure do rallies right. A lot of them love KLRs too, but they can't show their face at Starbucks on a KLR... Maybe we could have a few KLR riders show up a day early and rope off a "KLRs only" area and do some reverse snobbery? Anyone interested? I think it would be a hoot! Thanks CA Stu