now the bike won't start at all 2????

[rtaylor520]

Hi, I just bought a new KLR650 in late Dec 2006 (about a month ago) and now have about 550 miles on it. I had the maintenance done for first 500 mile except for the valve adjustment. The service guy said it is not required on some model years and is no big deal to skip so I did't have it done as it would need to be left overnight to let motor cool. Figured I would wait until next time (6000 mile maintenance I think). Anyway, is it important to have the valves done at the 500 mile maintenance? If so I will get it done. Thanks for any advice on this as to when it needs to be done the first time. Also, what is a good maintenance manual? Dealer wanted $89 for their manual. I would like to learn how to do some of it myself. Thanks, Robert

[Kerry Stottlemyer]

You don't ride it much do ya? I bought mine about the same time and I've got 1300 miles on it. Anyway you should at least check the adjustment at 500 miles. and if needed bring it back to spec. During the breakin period alot of things are wearing in. So valves, cam, drive chain etc can all move and get seated in. I would recommend it. Better safe then sorry. As for the manual I ponyed up for the factory manual $79.00 OTD. Not as detailed as I would like. But there again I am a machinist and I wouldn't be happy till they supplied part drawings. I will buy the Clymer manual I've heard it's a good book but have yet to look throught one. Kerry --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "rtaylor520" wrote:

> > Hi, I just bought a new KLR650 in late Dec 2006 (about a month

ago) and

> now have about 550 miles on it. I had the maintenance done for

first

> 500 mile except for the valve adjustment. The service guy said it

is

> not required on some model years and is no big deal to skip so I

did't

> have it done as it would need to be left overnight to let motor

cool.

> Figured I would wait until next time (6000 mile maintenance I

think).

> Anyway, is it important to have the valves done at the 500 mile > maintenance? If so I will get it done. Thanks for any advice on

this as

> to when it needs to be done the first time. Also, what is a good > maintenance manual? Dealer wanted $89 for their manual. I would

like to

> learn how to do some of it myself. Thanks, > > Robert >

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 31 Jan 2007 18:49:10 -0000 "rtaylor520" writes:

> Hi, I just bought a new KLR650 in late Dec 2006 (about a month ago) > and > now have about 550 miles on it. I had the maintenance done for first > > 500 mile except for the valve adjustment. The service guy said it is > > not required on some model years and is no big deal to skip so I > did't > have it done as it would need to be left overnight to let motor > cool. > Figured I would wait until next time (6000 mile maintenance I > think). > Anyway, is it important to have the valves done at the 500 mile > maintenance? If so I will get it done. Thanks for any advice on this > as > to when it needs to be done the first time. Also, what is a good > maintenance manual? Dealer wanted $89 for their manual. I would like > to > learn how to do some of it myself. Thanks, > > Robert

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Robert, My suggestion is to ride it for another 800-1,000 miles and then check the valves. They probably need just a bit of tweaking to get them at the large end of specifications. Then I'm guessing you'll be good for about 10,000+ smiles of valve adjustment free riding. My guess here is that your bike will be like many others and not be far from specs on most of the valves. But it only takes one valve out of specs to affect engine performance. Along with the valve check near the 1,500 smile mark you could change the doohickey and spring, change the oil and filter again (I think it really should be done a few times on a new engine like, 100, 500, 1,000 miles), adjust the battery fluid level and check all the fasteners for proper torque. May I suggest you consider using a NAPA soft crush washer on the drain plug on your next oil change. NAPA Part Number 704-1371 Gasket Net cost was $0.99. These are 12 mm blue soft washers. Using the soft washer allows you to get a very good seal with less torque on the drain plug. If you stay with the aluminum crush washer you should change it with each oil change as it will crush and then not crush an appreciable amount any more. This is when some folks are ham fisted and strip or stretch their case drain plug hole threads. You didn't say where you're located but maybe you could host a KLR tech day and get some help with your maintenance. Or... attend a tech day and get help with your maintenance. I'll probably be hosting a KLR tech day in Western South Dakota in April or so. The date is still to be determined. Anyway, I think your mechanic probably saved you a bit of money by suggesting you didn't have the valves checked at 500 smiles. But I also think Kawasaki would be upset if they found out he wasn't following their suggested maintenance intervals. I have the factory manuals and also the Clymer manual. If I was only going to have one I'd get the Clymer. The factory manuals require you to look in multiple places to make sure you have the most current information. I've been hosed a few times with the factory manuals and I have over 30 years experience using technical manuals. I think you could get it from Fred at www dot arrowheadmotorsports dot com or from www dot amazon dot com . If it costs over $25 at Amazon I think you'll qualify for free shipping. If you get it there and are short a few bucks to get the free shipping may I suggest you consider getting a DeLorme Atlas & Gazetteer for your area. They normally go for $20 in stores and at Amazon they are usually about $14 each. They will show you all kinds of fun roads, trails and areas to explore. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

[ak jtr]

You got to ride yours already, lucky you My lovely bride (of 25 years) bought me a new one for christmas and this morning as were putting on our shoes to go to work she said that it was probably torture to buy one at christmas when you can't ride it until maybe April, maybe May. (I live in Fairbanks Alaska). I had ridden the neighbors once last summer and she saw the sh*t eatin grin on my face. I've lurked on this site since December 25 and now am wondering what are good mods to make? This is my first bike and I'll drive 1/2 pavment, 1/2 dirt road, commuting and a little weekend riding. So far my list includes some 1.5 inch lowering links and a center stand. I have looked at every website which sells parts and most of web pages where users show off their personel modifications. i like the two different dashes other riders have made. I am also impressed with the inginuity of some owners. And yes, in the evenings I sit on it in the garage and honk the horn and practice using the turn signals and start it up and let it run until I can't stand the fumes anymore. Spawned Out _________________________________________________________________ FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and sell with people you know http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://expo.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06

[Don S]

Get some decent tires if you're going to ride gravel. Kenda K270 rear is a good choice. Original Dunlop front will be good for 6000 miles or so. Thereafter, get something you like. PD nerf bars will be good to keep you from damaging your radiator in the event of a fall. Some luggage racks for attaching panniers to haul you picnic lunch and fishing gear. Do the do, maybe upgrade your front fork springs to progressive springs. Stainless steel front brake line will improve braking somewhat. Look at some additional driving lighting. Either upgrade stock light or get additional auxiliary lighting. Upgrade and relocate the fuse system to ATO fuses. Don't ask Norm Keller what he'd do. You'd be so busy farkling that you won't have time to ride. ak jtr wrote: You got to ride yours already, lucky you My lovely bride (of 25 years) bought me a new one for christmas and this morning as were putting on our shoes to go to work she said that it was probably torture to buy one at christmas when you can't ride it until maybe April, maybe May. (I live in Fairbanks Alaska). I had ridden the neighbors once last summer and she saw the sh*t eatin grin on my face. I've lurked on this site since December 25 and now am wondering what are good mods to make? This is my first bike and I'll drive 1/2 pavment, 1/2 dirt road, commuting and a little weekend riding. So far my list includes some 1.5 inch lowering links and a center stand. I have looked at every website which sells parts and most of web pages where users show off their personel modifications. i like the two different dashes other riders have made. I am also impressed with the inginuity of some owners. And yes, in the evenings I sit on it in the garage and honk the horn and practice using the turn signals and start it up and let it run until I can't stand the fumes anymore. Spawned Out _________________________________________________________________ FREE online classifieds from Windows Live Expo buy and sell with people you know http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwex0010000001msn/direct/01/?href=http://expo.live.com?s_cid=Hotmail_tagline_12/06 List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Don't get soaked. Take a quick peak at the forecast with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

Have the valve adjustment checked at 500 miles. I have both Kawi and Clymer manuals- get the Clymer. The Kawi manual is a PITA to use and the information you will need for doing your own work is in the Clymer. Just my quick $0.02, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dooden]

Might not be enough gas in tank ? Petcock in Reserve position ? Sure there is fuel in the float bowl ? Could do the suck thing on the vacuum line going to the petcock to make sure you actually have fuel flow, if that vacuum line has cracks in it might consider replacing it also, since a vacuum leak will basically stop the fuel flow. Forgot how much SeaFoam you said you added, but again draining the float bowl into a clear container will show if you have fuel in carb and what it looks like. Of course will have to prime it again. Good Luck Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Sam King" wrote: > > If anyone is wondering....I forgot to mention in my last post that the > bike cranks over OK but it won't start. > > sam >