free: bash plate and stator

[AT]

Hey guys, I hope this finds you all well and jonesin' to go riding. I know I am. I been pouring over maps and planning. But, first thing is first. Barbie needs another top end job. She's burning oil again to the tune of a quart every 400 miles @ 4500+ RPM. I just rebuilt it last March at 10,000 miles but have put 13,000 hard miles on it since then. So I made a couple of calls just now to find out a new Jug and piston is gonna be about $600.00. I'm gonna go with a newer one because they have a thicker sleeve than in '95. Can anyone offer me a better solution or a better price on a new jug or even a complete motor? I need something with less than 10,000 miles on it for me to consider it... What I really need is a new bike... Anyhow... Thanks guys! I really appreciate the knowledge here. -Andy andyt59@...

[usa1911a1]

I'm no help to you on the parts but have seen complete engines go on eBay for less than $1500. I am surprised at your history. Two cylinder jobs in less than a year. Why do you think that your wear experience is so different from the groups? Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA

----- Original Message ----- From: AT To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups. com Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:03 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] New jug and piston... Hey guys, I hope this finds you all well and jonesin' to go riding. I know I am. I been pouring over maps and planning. But, first thing is first. Barbie needs another top end job. She's burning oil again to the tune of a quart every 400 miles @ 4500+ RPM. I just rebuilt it last March at 10,000 miles but have put 13,000 hard miles on it since then. So I made a couple of calls just now to find out a new Jug and piston is gonna be about $600.00. I'm gonna go with a newer one because they have a thicker sleeve than in '95. Can anyone offer me a better solution or a better price on a new jug or even a complete motor? I need something with less than 10,000 miles on it for me to consider it... What I really need is a new bike... Anyhow... Thanks guys! I really appreciate the knowledge here. -Andy andyt59@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Norm Keller]

Have you considered having an automotive machine shop bore the cylinder and press in a sleeve? For $600.00, I'd be looking at options. Just a thought, Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[AT]

Here is the history since last rebuild: 13000 miles. About 500-1000 miles of pavement. I have the habit of running 4500+ RPM's. The air cleaner was washed after every dirt ride or when I shut it down for the night (lots of overnighters.) I rebuilt it at about 10000 (March 2006) the first time because it was using a quart every 250 miles. Tim had a guy in Eagle, ID do the cyl. Head and hone the cyl. As it was just BARELY in spec. I installed new rings on the old piston and put it back together with Lubriplate assembly lube. Andy andyt59@... -----Original Message----- From: usa1911a1 [mailto:usa1911a1@...] Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 5:36 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups. com; AT Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] New jug and piston... I'm no help to you on the parts but have seen complete engines go on eBay for less than $1500. I am surprised at your history. Two cylinder jobs in less than a year. Why do you think that your wear experience is so different from the groups? Capt. Bob in Durham, CT. USA

----- Original Message ----- From: AT To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups. com Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:03 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] New jug and piston... Hey guys, I hope this finds you all well and jonesin' to go riding. I know I am. I been pouring over maps and planning. But, first thing is first. Barbie needs another top end job. She's burning oil again to the tune of a quart every 400 miles @ 4500+ RPM. I just rebuilt it last March at 10,000 miles but have put 13,000 hard miles on it since then. So I made a couple of calls just now to find out a new Jug and piston is gonna be about $600.00. I'm gonna go with a newer one because they have a thicker sleeve than in '95. Can anyone offer me a better solution or a better price on a new jug or even a complete motor? I need something with less than 10,000 miles on it for me to consider it... What I really need is a new bike... Anyhow... Thanks guys! I really appreciate the knowledge here. -Andy andyt59@... [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 00:54:29 -0700 "AT" writes:

> Here is the history since last rebuild: > > 13000 miles. About 500-1000 miles of pavement. I have the habit of > running > 4500+ RPM's. The air cleaner was washed after every dirt ride or > when I shut > it down for the night (lots of overnighters.) I rebuilt it at about > 10000 > (March 2006) the first time because it was using a quart every 250 > miles. > Tim had a guy in Eagle, ID do the cyl. Head and hone the cyl. As it > was just > BARELY in spec. I installed new rings on the old piston and put it > back > together with Lubriplate assembly lube. > > Andy > andyt59@...

<><><><><><> ><><><><><><>

[Kerry Stottlemyer]

I agree with Jeff, Barely in spec means it's barely holding good compresion. And the liklyhood of it using oil is high based one the lack of good contact with the cylinder. My philosophy on engine rebuilding is everything MUST be in factory spec If it's border line buy a new part or machine it and buy the correct fit mating part. Kerry

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 00:54:29 -0700 "AT" writes: > > Here is the history since last rebuild: > > > > 13000 miles. About 500-1000 miles of pavement. I have the habit of > > running > > 4500+ RPM's. The air cleaner was washed after every dirt ride or > > when I shut > > it down for the night (lots of overnighters.) I rebuilt it at about > > 10000 > > (March 2006) the first time because it was using a quart every 250 > > miles. > > Tim had a guy in Eagle, ID do the cyl. Head and hone the cyl. As it > > was just > > BARELY in spec. I installed new rings on the old piston and put it > > back > > together with Lubriplate assembly lube. > > > > Andy > > andyt59@... > <><><><><><> ><><><><><><> > > Andy, > > The question I now have is what is your engine "break in" procedure? I'm > also curious as to what oil you are using. And I'm also wondering if you > don't have a rod that's bent and causing abnormal piston movement. Also > what are you setting the ring gaps at and what is the orientation of the > gaps when on the piston in the cylinder? And what is your piston to > cylinder wall clearance? I think all these are all possible to cause oil > use if not done properly. Your BARELY in spec comment about the cylinder > and honing it makes me think you could be getting the correct amount of > oil usage based on the parts used. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT >

[fasteddiecopeman]

A word of WARNING! Apparently the sleeve protrudes a VERY small amount above the top (.002"???), and if you press one in too far (level) you'll blow head gaskets! Happened to my buddy from Arkansas. Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Norm Keller" wrote: > > Have you considered having an automotive machine shop bore the cylinder and press in a sleeve? For $600.00, I'd be looking at options. > > Just a thought, > > Norm > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Mike]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote:

> > A word of WARNING! Apparently the sleeve protrudes a VERY small

amount above the top

> (.002"???), and if you press one in too far (level) you'll blow head

gaskets! Happened to my

> buddy from Arkansas. > Ed

Ed, The factory sleeve (for the KLR650)has extra material in this area. After the sleeve is installed, it has to be cut down - at least on the parts I've seen. It also has to be bored - you can just throw another liner in there and be good to go. all the best, Mike

[a14@att.net]

> The factory sleeve (for the KLR650)has extra material in this area. > After the sleeve is installed, it has to be cut down - at least on the > parts I've seen. It also has to be bored - you can just throw another > liner in there and be good to go. > > all the best, > > Mike >

Don't you really mean you CAN'T just throw another liner in there and be good to go? Walt

[michaeljtruel]

---I am curious about this: Friend of mine has a 2000 model with 120,000 miles on it with only routine maintenance and regular oil changes. What is all this rebuilding interest based on?? mike in OK In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, a14@... wrote:

> > > The factory sleeve (for the KLR650)has extra material in this

area.

> > After the sleeve is installed, it has to be cut down - at least

on the

> > parts I've seen. It also has to be bored - you can just throw

another

> > liner in there and be good to go. > > > > all the best, > > > > Mike > > > > Don't you really mean you CAN'T just throw another > liner in there and be good to go? > > Walt >