windshield extension?

[kawasaki_life_long_fan]

Can anyone provide me with some insight into this issue? I recently installed a pair of LED ("Motrax" brand) billet, aluminum blinkers (purchased from Cycle Gear) onto my 2006 KLR. When I purchased them, the parts salesman said I would need the additional flasher in order for them to blink properly. Well, first I hooked up the blinkers and found that all 4 blinkers came on at the same time whenever you activated the turn signal switch to the right or left. The flasher I was sold did not fit my system, nor did it allow the blinkers to work properly. I spoke with the local motorcycle shop and they noted an experience with another metric cruiser with the same condition because of the single indicator light. I was told I would need a Kuryakyn diode kit to prevent feedback of the power through my system as I had only on turn signal indicator light. I installed the diode kit. Now, the left and right sides come on as activated, yet they don't flash. It appears that I need a different flasher? Is this so or is there another fix? Mike K. North Texas

[Norm Keller]

Mike, If you don't get this sorted out in the next couple of days, email and I'll help you through it. No time tonight. Norm [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[dsmeclipse]

Yes, you need to upgrade your flasher to a heavy duty style. It will flash no matter how little the load is. You can get it at any automotive supply store. You will most likely need to run a ground wire for the new flasher. Brian --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "kawasaki_life_long_fan" wrote:

> > Can anyone provide me with some insight into this issue? > I recently installed a pair of LED ("Motrax" brand) billet,

aluminum

> blinkers (purchased from Cycle Gear) onto my 2006 KLR. When I > purchased them, the parts salesman said I would need the

additional

> flasher in order for them to blink properly. Well, first I hooked

up

> the blinkers and found that all 4 blinkers came on at the same

time

> whenever you activated the turn signal switch to the right or

left.

> The flasher I was sold did not fit my system, nor did it allow the > blinkers to work properly. I spoke with the local motorcycle shop

and

> they noted an experience with another metric cruiser with the same > condition because of the single indicator light. I was told I

would

> need a Kuryakyn diode kit to prevent feedback of the power through

my

> system as I had only on turn signal indicator light. I installed

the

> diode kit. Now, the left and right sides come on as activated, yet > they don't flash. It appears that I need a different flasher? Is

this

> so or is there another fix? > > Mike K. > North Texas >

[Norm Keller]

You indicated that you have installed LED turn signal lights but have not been successful in making them flash. Haven't heard back but thought to put some thoughts on paper. The KLR turn signal system uses a load operated flasher which provides power through the three position signal light switch. The signal light switch is off (open) in the centre and connects the signal flasher to either the right or left signal lights when switched to either side. Check a wiring diagram and you will see that the front and rear signal lights on one side are both connected to one side of the signal switch. The other side's signal lights are both connected to the other side of the signal light switch. In this way, the power from the battery, headlight fuse, turn signal relay (flasher), signal switch is disconnected from the signal lights in the centre position but directed to the appropriate pair of signal lights as required. The signal lights are connected in parallel so that either light will continue to function is the other fails. Each light has its own separate ground which connects the return path to the battery negative. The signal indicator light is of relatively small capacity and is connected between the right and left signal light circuits. This kind of circuit is a challenge to those with little electrical experience but is simple in concept. Since the indicator light is connected between the right and left signal light circuits, it will be connected to power when ever either signal light pair is in operation. A relatively small current flowing from the activated signal light pair, through the indicator light and to the signal light wiring for the opposite side pair of signal lights. Since the opposite pair of signal lights (in parallel) are much larger in capacity than the indicator light, the signal lights serve as an adequate circuit to ground for the indicator light. In this way the indicator light will illuminate when ever either pair of signal lights is in operation. There are two problems when converting to LED lights: 1) The LED lights do not provide sufficient load to cause heating of the bimetallic strip in the load type (original) flasher. 2) The LED lights do not provide sufficient circuit capacity to serve as a ground circuit to the indicator light bulb. There are a couple of solutions which come to mind. 1) The simpler solution is to add a load in the form of a resistor connected in parallel with each signal light pair. This is to say: connect a resistor to replace the circuit capacity of the original bulbs. In this way the flasher will be provided with sufficient load to function, there will be sufficient circuit capacity to allow the indicator light to function, you will have the advantage of the brightness of the LED lights without additional modification. 2) A more complex solution will require replacement of the original signal flasher with an electronic flasher. This will allow the LED lights to function in place of the original bulbs. The next problem will be in operating the indicator light. One solution is to rewire the indicator light with one connection to ground. Connect a pair of diodes to the other indicator light wire and connect the other side of one diode to each turn signal circuit. In this circuit the indicator light will be grounded directly and powered through which ever diode is connected to the operating signal lights. The other diode will prevent the other pair of signal lights from being powered by the indicator light circuit. There are other solutions if these do not fit your needs. If you need additional clarification, please email me directly. Norm

[dooden]

Just curious... Have you tried it without a windshield at all ? Only takes 3 screws to remove. I took a OEM and hacked off about 1/2 way down, covered with rubberized undercoating and at least the helmet dont bobble in the wind. Main reason was, the OEM shield always made me nervious when I was offroading it. Affraid it was going to catch my throat when I was riding beyond the bikes designed application. Sorry grew up climbing hills on a 80cc 2 stroke and upgraded to a 125 cc Honda later on, neither of which had the amount of power the 650 makes of course. Needless to say I have launched it a few times going up hills cause my self taught method of climbing was full throttle down shifting to the top as RPM's dropped. Well they rarely drop on the 650, actually they increase most of the time, so it becomes a Up Up and Away scene from a Evil Kenevil short film. cept... his HD's always seemed to fly better than the KLR.... KLR flys like a Pig without wings. Up Up and straight down without enough speed with the launch. Dooden A15 Green Ape --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "steve04klr650" wrote:

> > Just installed an aftermarked windshield 9" over stock. I still

seems

> to be a few inches short as wind still hits my face. With the helmet > shield open it creates a buffeting that's extremely annoying. Is > anyone aware of an extension for windshields to get another 3-4"? > Probably should have purchased the tallest windshield available.

Thanks

>