
side bags for klr 650
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 7:10 am
**&^%$%% grips, but great brakes!
I'm new to the KLR world and to imported motorcycles in general.
The smaller diameter of the handlebars combined with thin grips has
my hands sore after a couple of hours in the saddle, especially on
the highway. I was in a small dirtbike shop the other day having a
set of tires mounted to my streetbike rims when I found a set of
nice, close cell foam grips that looked to be just the ticket for my
KLR.
IN FORTY YEARS OF MOTORCYCLING I HAVE NEVER RUN UP AGAINST A SET OF
GRIPS THAT WERE A BIGGER PAIN IN MY A$$ TO REMOVE THAN THE FACTORY
GRIPS ON MY A20!!!!
I have no idea what kind of adhesive they use, but re-enforced
concrete's got nothing on this stuff. It completely bonded the
rubber grip to the bar across every square inch of area under the
grip. The clutch side was cut off in 1" chunks while working them
with a pair of needlenosed pliers and a razor knife cutting the bond
to the metal. When I finally got the rubber off I still had to work
it over with a razor blade followed by sandpaper to get through the
glue and remaining grip rubber. The throttle side was a little
easier as they didn't use as much on the throttle tube. Another of
those half hour jobs that ends up taking all night, but along with
adjusting the handlebar position I think the effort will be well
worth it. These are BikeMaster Superbike close cell foam grips and
go for about $6 or $7 for the set.
Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with
the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder
rod and the brake lever clevis. As soon as I set it up as per the
manual the master cylinder piston is pushed much earlier in the
stroke as well as at a higher peddle position. I don't have my foot
pointed towards the ground now when applying the rear brake. I had
bled the system a couple of times thinking I has air in there.
Found that my carb vent tube has gotten across the pipe at one time
or another. Although it's clear now, it looks like I'll be doing
the T-mod earlier than I planned.
Hoppy

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- Posts: 727
- Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:02 pm
**&^%$%% grips, but great brakes!
On Fri, 21 Jul 2006, theoneandonlyhoppy wrote:
Yup. They live to really over do the glue on those.> IN FORTY YEARS OF MOTORCYCLING I HAVE NEVER RUN UP AGAINST A SET OF > GRIPS THAT WERE A BIGGER PAIN IN MY A$$ TO REMOVE THAN THE FACTORY > GRIPS ON MY A20!!!!
Your previous post seems to imply that you got a new KLR. If so, then this is the first I remember hearing about that as a dealer/factory prep issue. Was this misadjustment something that "came" with the bike or were you messing with it before you got your service manual? -- Doug Herr doug@...> Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with > the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder > rod and the brake lever clevis.
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- Posts: 639
- Joined: Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:36 am
**&^%$%% grips, but great brakes!
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote:
Also note that there are some of us who "misadjust" the rear brake on purpose. Locking up your rear brake on the street is a perfect way to low-side your bike (just let go of the rear brake, and the bike will snap over to the other side of what it was leaning and throw you right off like bronco). Sliding down the road with 450 pounds of pig KLR bearing down on me from behind is not how I want to spend my days :-{. -E> On Fri, 21 Jul 2006, theoneandonlyhoppy wrote: > > Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with > > the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder > > rod and the brake lever clevis. > > Was this misadjustment something that "came" with the bike or > were you messing with it before you got your service manual?
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 7:10 am
**&^%$%% grips, but great brakes!
I Just got the bike a couple of weeks ago and it came that way from the factory. My manual calls for the master cylinder pushrod to protrude 0.12-0.14 in. into the inside of the peddle cleavis. Mine was almost twice that distance causing the peddle to have to travel much further down than it should before actuating the master cylinder piston. My service manual was inbound, but before it arrived I had done a bleed job to the rear system to eliminate the possibility of air in the system causing the same problem. Hoppy> > Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with > > the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder > > rod and the brake lever clevis. > > > Your previous post seems to imply that you got a new KLR. If so, > then this is the first I remember hearing about that as a > dealer/factory prep issue. > > Was this misadjustment something that "came" with the bike or > were you messing with it before you got your service manual? > > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@... >
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- Posts: 111
- Joined: Mon Aug 08, 2005 7:45 pm
**&^%$%% grips, but great brakes!
Most of the time I just cut off the ends and push a Phillips screw
driver up between the grip and the bar. Then I squirt in some chemical
like WD-40 or ChemTool, letting it sit for awhile. After that it
usually peels back off of the bar.
Wear gloves, don't breath the stuff and wash your hand afterwards.
George, who lost his grip a long time ago in
Escondido, CA
Doug Herr wrote:
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]> > On Fri, 21 Jul 2006, theoneandonlyhoppy wrote: > > > IN FORTY YEARS OF MOTORCYCLING I HAVE NEVER RUN UP AGAINST A SET OF > > GRIPS THAT WERE A BIGGER PAIN IN MY A$$ TO REMOVE THAN THE FACTORY > > GRIPS ON MY A20!!!! > > Yup. They live to really over do the glue on those. > > > Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with > > the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder > > rod and the brake lever clevis. > > Your previous post seems to imply that you got a new KLR. If so, > then this is the first I remember hearing about that as a > dealer/factory prep issue. > > Was this misadjustment something that "came" with the bike or > were you messing with it before you got your service manual? > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@... > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.3/395 - Release Date: 7/21/2006 >
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- Posts: 42
- Joined: Wed Mar 01, 2006 5:01 pm
side bags for klr 650
Afternoon fellows,
Has anyone had any experience with these side bags? Any recommendation.etc.
http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/Touring.htm
Thanks for all the info.
Greg
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Tue Jul 11, 2006 7:10 am
**&^%$%% grips, but great brakes!
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, geobas wrote:
chemical> > Most of the time I just cut off the ends and push a Phillips screw > driver up between the grip and the bar. Then I squirt in some
That's been my routine in the past, but there was no part of this grip that would allow even my smallest screwdriver to get between the grip and bar. The whole grip was bonded to the bar. After I peeled it with a razor the remaining adhesive just laughed at WD40 and even brake cleaner. Hoppy> like WD-40 or ChemTool, letting it sit for awhile. After that it > usually peels back off of the bar. > > Wear gloves, don't breath the stuff and wash your hand afterwards. > > George, who lost his grip a long time ago in > Escondido, CA
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