shifter /shifting

[hotfoot777]

Seriously is anyone getting my messages? If so, someone shurley can help me a little, with as much trivial shit that goes on this list. I can wrench and trouble shoot pretty well The electrical is a little more complicated for me, i need to test the stator on my brand new 37 you got to be kidding ME miles. Im not shure if it was ever charging, i got an aftermarket switch, you know the one with the canceling signals so i dont run it much with the lights on. the batt went dead the other day so i charged it then checked the voltage a few days later, its 11 volts at the batt with no change when started? All wires and fuses have been doubled checked. stator? rectafier? Please anyone that has a clue help. These dealers are not touching my bike. worse comes to worse ill go ahead and get a higher output stator and do the doohicky while im in there. i just thought i could wait and see about the new setup that Eagle Mike was working on. Oh Well thats the way the KLR crumbles.

[Bogdan Swider]

On 7/7/06 9:56 PM, "hotfoot777" wrote:

> Seriously is anyone getting my messages? If so, someone shurley can > help me a little, with as much trivial shit that goes on this list. I > can wrench and trouble shoot pretty well The electrical is a little > more complicated for me, i need to test the stator on my brand new 37 > you got to be kidding ME miles. Im not shure if it was ever charging, > i got an aftermarket switch, you know the one with the canceling > signals so i dont run it much with the lights on. the batt went dead > the other day so i charged it then checked the voltage a few days > later, its 11 volts at the batt with no change when started?

Here is what you should be seeing when you use your multimeter to measure voltage: If the battery has about 12.6 volts or so with no load on it and stays above 9.6 volts when cranking the battery is probably ok. If the voltage goes up to 13.8 or a bit more with some rpms on the engine the charging system is probably working. Sounds like you should do this last test. Better tests are a bit more complicated and may need additional equipment and training. I got this info from an old post by Jeff Saline that I filed though I've seen similar numbers elsewhere. Good Luck, Bogdan

[Jim]

I haven't seen a message come through from you recently, and I would have remembered a charging problem! My '06 has some charging issues as well. I installed a voltmeter to keep an eye on things, and its quite common to see it go down to 11 volts even without any of my accessories running. It started out as short bursts at the low voltage...maybe a couple minutes at a time, then back to 13.5-14 volts. Its getting more frequent, and much longer...usually 30 minutes or more at 11 volts or less. My bike is an '06 with 3200 miles, but I can't take it to a dealer because I have heated grips and driving lights, and they won't cover anything electrical. Dealers around here just won't touch anything with accessories. Jim

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "hotfoot777" wrote: > > Seriously is anyone getting my messages? If so, someone shurley can > help me a little, with as much trivial shit that goes on this list. I > can wrench and trouble shoot pretty well The electrical is a little > more complicated for me, i need to test the stator on my brand new 37 > you got to be kidding ME miles. Im not shure if it was ever charging, > i got an aftermarket switch, you know the one with the canceling > signals so i dont run it much with the lights on. the batt went dead > the other day so i charged it then checked the voltage a few days > later, its 11 volts at the batt with no change when started? All wires > and fuses have been doubled checked. stator? rectafier? Please anyone > that has a clue help. These dealers are not touching my bike. worse > comes to worse ill go ahead and get a higher output stator and do the > doohicky while im in there. i just thought i could wait and see about > the new setup that Eagle Mike was working on. Oh Well thats the way > the KLR crumbles. >

[Doug Herr]

On Sat, 8 Jul 2006, hotfoot777 wrote:

> Seriously is anyone getting my messages? If so, someone shurley can > help me a little, with as much trivial shit that goes on this list. I > can wrench and trouble shoot pretty well The electrical is a little > more complicated for me, i need to test the stator on my brand new 37 > you got to be kidding ME miles. Im not shure if it was ever charging, > i got an aftermarket switch, you know the one with the canceling > signals so i dont run it much with the lights on. the batt went dead > the other day so i charged it then checked the voltage a few days > later, its 11 volts at the batt with no change when started? All wires > and fuses have been doubled checked. stator? rectafier? Please anyone > that has a clue help. These dealers are not touching my bike. worse > comes to worse ill go ahead and get a higher output stator and do the > doohicky while im in there. i just thought i could wait and see about > the new setup that Eagle Mike was working on. Oh Well thats the way > the KLR crumbles.

I saw your previous post but was not really sure what you were asking. Again I am not fully sure of the questions, but I do see something I can comment on. A test: Remove battery from bike. Change battery. Wait a few hours. Check voltage of battery. If the battery is at a proper post charge voltage (12.8 or so) then do a quick capacity check. One way is to power something like the headlight of the bike for about a minute. You then wait 10 minutes or so and check your voltage again. It should still be over 12 volts. If all that checks out then you install the battery in the bike and watch the voltage (right at the battery) and see what happens when you fully hook it up and try to start the bike. If the bike won't start then you should jump it and then watch what voltage you get. If it shows less then 12 at a reasonable rpm (2500 or more), then I would say that you have a charging problem. So, all that was just to try to get a clear feel for where the battery itself is in this equation. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Ernie Campbell]

I also got a new bike voltmeter and cannot get any green lights, only low yellows even when its running and i cut lights on, it starts flashing its warning. Ernie Campbell

----- Original Message ----- From: hotfoot777 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 11:56 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Charging Delima Seriously is anyone getting my messages? If so, someone shurley can help me a little, with as much trivial shit that goes on this list. I can wrench and trouble shoot pretty well The electrical is a little more complicated for me, i need to test the stator on my brand new 37 you got to be kidding ME miles. Im not shure if it was ever charging, i got an aftermarket switch, you know the one with the canceling signals so i dont run it much with the lights on. the batt went dead the other day so i charged it then checked the voltage a few days later, its 11 volts at the batt with no change when started? All wires and fuses have been doubled checked. stator? rectafier? Please anyone that has a clue help. These dealers are not touching my bike. worse comes to worse ill go ahead and get a higher output stator and do the doohicky while im in there. i just thought i could wait and see about the new setup that Eagle Mike was working on. Oh Well thats the way the KLR crumbles. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[CA Stu]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote:

> > On Sat, 8 Jul 2006, hotfoot777 wrote: > > > Seriously is anyone getting my messages? If so, someone shurley

can

> > help me a little, with as much trivial shit that goes on this

list. I

> > can wrench and trouble shoot pretty well The electrical is a

little

> > more complicated for me, i need to test the stator on my brand

new 37

> > you got to be kidding ME miles. Im not shure if it was ever

charging,

> > i got an aftermarket switch, you know the one with the canceling > > signals so i dont run it much with the lights on. the batt went

dead

> > the other day so i charged it then checked the voltage a few days > > later, its 11 volts at the batt with no change when started? All

wires

> > and fuses have been doubled checked. stator? rectafier? Please

anyone

> > that has a clue help. These dealers are not touching my bike.

worse

> > comes to worse ill go ahead and get a higher output stator and do

the

> > doohicky while im in there. i just thought i could wait and see

about

> > the new setup that Eagle Mike was working on. Oh Well thats the

way

> > the KLR crumbles. > > I saw your previous post but was not really sure what you were > asking. Again I am not fully sure of the questions, but I do see > something I can comment on. > > A test: > > Remove battery from bike. > > Change battery. > > Wait a few hours. > > Check voltage of battery. > > If the battery is at a proper post charge voltage (12.8 or so) > then do a quick capacity check. One way is to power something > like the headlight of the bike for about a minute. You then wait > 10 minutes or so and check your voltage again. It should still > be over 12 volts. > > If all that checks out then you install the battery in the bike > and watch the voltage (right at the battery) and see what happens > when you fully hook it up and try to start the bike. > > If the bike won't start then you should jump it and then watch > what voltage you get. If it shows less then 12 at a reasonable > rpm (2500 or more), then I would say that you have a charging > problem. > > So, all that was just to try to get a clear feel for where the > battery itself is in this equation. > > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@... >

If you only have 37 miles on the bike, how long have you left it sitting with no charging at all? Was it stored in the heat? Check the fluid in the battery. If you got an aftermarket switch, and electrical is "more complicated" for you, maybe you hooked the switch up wrong. This is way more likely than having a bad system from the factory. I assume you installed it yourself? Try reinstalling the stock switch, checking the fluid in the battery and charging the battery, see what happens. Good luck CA Stu

[Ernie Campbell]

Stu im waiting for my permit still, it never goes even a week before i at least start it. Ive charged it with tops of per the manual, level fine in all chambers. stored room temp.Switch is plug and play.When i say im not that good at electrial its not as bad as some may think.Also Jim on this list with an 2006 is having somewhat the same problems. Thanks Stu for the input. Ernie Campbell

----- Original Message ----- From: CA Stu To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 2:04 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Charging Delima --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote: > > On Sat, 8 Jul 2006, hotfoot777 wrote: > > > Seriously is anyone getting my messages? If so, someone shurley can > > help me a little, with as much trivial shit that goes on this list. I > > can wrench and trouble shoot pretty well The electrical is a little > > more complicated for me, i need to test the stator on my brand new 37 > > you got to be kidding ME miles. Im not shure if it was ever charging, > > i got an aftermarket switch, you know the one with the canceling > > signals so i dont run it much with the lights on. the batt went dead > > the other day so i charged it then checked the voltage a few days > > later, its 11 volts at the batt with no change when started? All wires > > and fuses have been doubled checked. stator? rectafier? Please anyone > > that has a clue help. These dealers are not touching my bike. worse > > comes to worse ill go ahead and get a higher output stator and do the > > doohicky while im in there. i just thought i could wait and see about > > the new setup that Eagle Mike was working on. Oh Well thats the way > > the KLR crumbles. > > I saw your previous post but was not really sure what you were > asking. Again I am not fully sure of the questions, but I do see > something I can comment on. > > A test: > > Remove battery from bike. > > Change battery. > > Wait a few hours. > > Check voltage of battery. > > If the battery is at a proper post charge voltage (12.8 or so) > then do a quick capacity check. One way is to power something > like the headlight of the bike for about a minute. You then wait > 10 minutes or so and check your voltage again. It should still > be over 12 volts. > > If all that checks out then you install the battery in the bike > and watch the voltage (right at the battery) and see what happens > when you fully hook it up and try to start the bike. > > If the bike won't start then you should jump it and then watch > what voltage you get. If it shows less then 12 at a reasonable > rpm (2500 or more), then I would say that you have a charging > problem. > > So, all that was just to try to get a clear feel for where the > battery itself is in this equation. > > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@... > If you only have 37 miles on the bike, how long have you left it sitting with no charging at all? Was it stored in the heat? Check the fluid in the battery. If you got an aftermarket switch, and electrical is "more complicated" for you, maybe you hooked the switch up wrong. This is way more likely than having a bad system from the factory. I assume you installed it yourself? Try reinstalling the stock switch, checking the fluid in the battery and charging the battery, see what happens. Good luck CA Stu [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Sat, Jul 08, 2006 at 02:25:19PM -0400, Ernie Campbell wrote:

> Stu im waiting for my permit still, it never goes even a week before > i at least start it. Ive charged it with tops of per the manual, level > fine in all chambers. stored room temp.Switch is plug and play.When i > say im not that good at electrial its not as bad as some may think.Also > Jim on this list with an 2006 is having somewhat the same problems.

"Jim on this list" has also added quite a bit of wiring to his bike, like you in the handlebar area where everything gets flexed a lot and insulation faults are most common, and might have the same problem I suspect you do: a poorly insulated wire or junction that leaks current to ground very slowly. Go over every connection you've even thought about touching -- in fact, every one you've even breathed at -- take the insulation off and wrap with tape _twice_ _neatly_ (if it doesn't look like a lineman's insulated splice on a telephone pole, you didn't do a good enough job) back to 2cm or so from the actual conneciton point or, if it's a solder joint, check the joint, then brush with liquid electrical tape, allow to dry, then tape once thoroughly (and neatly). It's also possible that there's a slow leak to ground somewhere in that aftermarket push-to-cancel turn signal switch. I have no idea where those actually come from and I've heard some dealers selling them don't either -- maybe they're defective parts from some other bike, it wouldn't be the first time. Try the original switch again. But first, take that battery out of the bike. Top up to spec with distilled water (or throw it away, if you ever put tap water in it), and trickle-charge for several hours, checking that 1H after charging the voltage of the battery is at least 12.6 volts. Put the battery in the bike, crank the bike to start, take the battery back out, check that voltage is still well above 12V. If either of these aren't true, your battery is toast. And don't abuse your battery any more by assuming that starting the bike or idling the bike charges it. You have to get the KLR to at least 2000 RPM to put any kind of charge into the battery at all, and it needs at least 10-20 minutes of that to make up for what starting the bike takes out. Thor

[Douglas Bouley]

What are the implications of this for very slow stop and go traffic? For example, yesterday I was in a traffic snafu that would have left me idling in 0-1 mph traffic for at least half an hour (if I hadn't had a KLR and the ability to "take the road less traveled"). How much of that sort of traffic can a KLR put up with if it doesn't charge at under 2k rpm? If caught in that kind of mess, does blipping the throttle periodically help? thanks, doug Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> . > > And don't abuse your battery any more by assuming that starting the bike > or idling the bike charges it. You have to get the KLR to at least 2000 > RPM to put any kind of charge into the battery at all, and it needs at > least 10-20 minutes of that to make up for what starting the bike takes > out. > > Thor > >

[Jim]

In my particular case, it has nothing to do with the wiring I added. I tapped into the KLR wiring in only 2 places...the city light circuit and the positive terminal on the starter solenoid for battery power. When I began having charging problems, I unhooked both circuits so everything was back to stock, and used my multimeter to check voltage at the battery...and it was still low. As for the "slow leak to ground" theory, thats called a short, and even a tiny short will cause the fuse to blow. Jim --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

> > On Sat, Jul 08, 2006 at 02:25:19PM -0400, Ernie Campbell wrote: > > Stu im waiting for my permit still, it never goes even a week

before

> > i at least start it. Ive charged it with tops of per the manual,

level

> > fine in all chambers. stored room temp.Switch is plug and

play.When i

> > say im not that good at electrial its not as bad as some may

think.Also

> > Jim on this list with an 2006 is having somewhat the same

problems.

> > "Jim on this list" has also added quite a bit of wiring to his bike, > like you in the handlebar area where everything gets flexed a lot

and

> insulation faults are most common, and might have the same problem I > suspect you do: a poorly insulated wire or junction that leaks

current

> to ground very slowly. > > Go over every connection you've even thought about touching -- in

fact,

> every one you've even breathed at -- take the insulation off and

wrap

> with tape _twice_ _neatly_ (if it doesn't look like a lineman's

insulated

> splice on a telephone pole, you didn't do a good enough job) back

to 2cm

> or so from the actual conneciton point or, if it's a solder joint,

check

> the joint, then brush with liquid electrical tape, allow to dry,

then

> tape once thoroughly (and neatly). > > It's also possible that there's a slow leak to ground somewhere in

that

> aftermarket push-to-cancel turn signal switch. I have no idea where > those actually come from and I've heard some dealers selling them

don't

> either -- maybe they're defective parts from some other bike, it

wouldn't

> be the first time. Try the original switch again. > > But first, take that battery out of the bike. Top up to spec with > distilled water (or throw it away, if you ever put tap water in it), > and trickle-charge for several hours, checking that 1H after

charging

> the voltage of the battery is at least 12.6 volts. Put the battery

in

> the bike, crank the bike to start, take the battery back out, check > that voltage is still well above 12V. If either of these aren't

true,

> your battery is toast. > > And don't abuse your battery any more by assuming that starting the

bike

> or idling the bike charges it. You have to get the KLR to at least

2000

> RPM to put any kind of charge into the battery at all, and it needs

at

> least 10-20 minutes of that to make up for what starting the bike

takes

> out. > > Thor >