doin the doo

[John Biccum]

Yesterday was the first day that I refilled my new IMS tank. It hit reserve at 275 miles and I filled it at 302 miles. I didn't bother sloshing the fuel from the right lobe into the left lobe of the tank. It took 6.526 gallons to fill, 46 mpg, about all I have been seeing since I shimmed the needle in the carb.. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[traderpro2003]

I'm running the same tank (used for multiple trips 4,000 miles use) and I really like the tank - probably never go back to stock. I tested mine in Death Valley hitting 305 miles before reserve came on and that was pushing around 230 lbs of rider + gear including going up Goler Wash. My only complaints are: 1. Much harder to remove especially with PD nerf bars installed. 2. There is no integrated vent (it uses a tube through the cap). 3. Cap is not lockable. I scientifically measured volume in my bathtub at home. I got 6.85 gallons from dry to high. The instructions say production volume can vary...I think it worked to my advantage here with exception it's a bugger to fit/mount in the PD Nerf bars! Cheers - Brian --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote:

> > Yesterday was the first day that I refilled my new IMS tank. It hit

reserve

> at 275 miles and I filled it at 302 miles. I didn't bother sloshing

the

> fuel from the right lobe into the left lobe of the tank. > > It took 6.526 gallons to fill, 46 mpg, about all I have been seeing

since I

> shimmed the needle in the carb.. > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[squasher_1]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote:

> > 46 mpg, about all I have been seeing since I > shimmed the needle in the carb.. > >

I found the biggest drop in milage was from drilling out the slide vent hole to 1/8 inch. I lost 2 mpg With testing I found NO improvments in power buy using a larger main jet or shimming the needle. I did get better acceleration by using a KLX needle instead of the stock one, but that gave me a drop of 1mpg. My average was 47

[Tony JONES]

> From: "John Biccum" > It took 6.526 gallons to fill, 46 mpg, about all I have been seeing since I > shimmed the needle in the carb..

How much did you shim the needle? All I could find at the local hardware store was 0.8mm (advice I'd read was 0.5 to 1.0mm) but it mostly cured my 4700-5000rpm hestitation. I'm 1.75 turns out on the pilot. Curious to know what my new target gas mileage should be. Of course I have no clue what it was before I shimmed it. Probably a function of the bike being non running more than running. Whats good for bone stock? Tony

[John Biccum]

I estimate that the shim cost me about 2 mpg, but that might not be acurate since I went to the 685 cc kit at the same time. Shim is a stainles steel washer .020 inches thick. Big change I noted with the shim is that the bike runs *much* cooler. Pre-shim it used to run at the middle of the temp gage most times. After the shim it runs just a needle width above the cold line. I'm actually thinking of blocking off some of the radiator to get the temp up. -----Original Message----- From: Tony Jones [mailto:tony@...] Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 7:51 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Cc: johnbiccum@... Subject: Re: First IMS tank report

> From: "John Biccum" > It took 6.526 gallons to fill, 46 mpg, about all I have been seeing > since I shimmed the needle in the carb..

How much did you shim the needle? All I could find at the local hardware store was 0.8mm (advice I'd read was 0.5 to 1.0mm) but it mostly cured my 4700-5000rpm hestitation. I'm 1.75 turns out on the pilot. Curious to know what my new target gas mileage should be. Of course I have no clue what it was before I shimmed it. Probably a function of the bike being non running more than running. Whats good for bone stock? Tony

[Tony JONES]

I see no major diff in temp with the .8mm shim I added. Runs right at the middle of the temp gage pre and post. Tony

> I estimate that the shim cost me about 2 mpg, but that might not be acurate > since I went to the 685 cc kit at the same time. > > Shim is a stainles steel washer .020 inches thick. Big change I noted with > the shim is that the bike runs *much* cooler. Pre-shim it used to run at > the middle of the temp gage most times. After the shim it runs just a > needle width above the cold line. I'm actually thinking of blocking off > some of the radiator to get the temp up. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tony Jones [mailto:tony@...] > Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 7:51 PM > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Cc: johnbiccum@... > Subject: Re: First IMS tank report > > > > From: "John Biccum" > > > It took 6.526 gallons to fill, 46 mpg, about all I have been seeing > > since I shimmed the needle in the carb.. > > How much did you shim the needle? All I could find at the local hardware > store was 0.8mm (advice I'd read was 0.5 to 1.0mm) but it mostly cured my > 4700-5000rpm hestitation. I'm 1.75 turns out on the pilot. > > Curious to know what my new target gas mileage should be. > > Of course I have no clue what it was before I shimmed it. Probably a > function of the bike being non running more than running. Whats good for > bone stock? > > Tony >

[Tony JONES]

> I estimate that the shim cost me about 2 mpg, but that might not be acurate > since I went to the 685 cc kit at the same time.

Also, the review in this months MCN claims 51.2/40.1/45.4 hi/lo/avg for mpg. So if you're getting 46mpg, that doesn't seem bad at all. I just filled up, 4 gallons for 160 miles (twisties) most of which were pre-shimming but I'm hard on the gas ..... clearly need to try taking it easier and see if I can get closer to your 46mpg. Tony

[Tony JONES]

On the freeway top gear mine tends to run cool. maybe 25% But if I ride in the twisties or city, it's always around 50%. You said yours used to run 50% most times and post shim dropped to just above the cold line. Are you sure you've not just changed your mix of riding? Tony

> Its strange that you and I are seeing such a difference. My bike will get > to midscale idling in traffic but not a cruise speeds. Maybe I'll pull my > shim out as an experiment and see if the temp returns to normal.

[John Biccum]

Its strange that you and I are seeing such a difference. My bike will get to midscale idling in traffic but not a cruise speeds. Maybe I'll pull my shim out as an experiment and see if the temp returns to normal. -----Original Message----- From: Tony Jones [mailto:tony@...] Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 10:17 PM To: John Biccum Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: First IMS tank report I see no major diff in temp with the .8mm shim I added. Runs right at the middle of the temp gage pre and post. Tony

> I estimate that the shim cost me about 2 mpg, but that might not be > acurate since I went to the 685 cc kit at the same time. > > Shim is a stainles steel washer .020 inches thick. Big change I noted > with the shim is that the bike runs *much* cooler. Pre-shim it used > to run at the middle of the temp gage most times. After the shim it > runs just a needle width above the cold line. I'm actually thinking > of blocking off some of the radiator to get the temp up. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Tony Jones [mailto:tony@...] > Sent: Sunday, April 16, 2006 7:51 PM > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Cc: johnbiccum@... > Subject: Re: First IMS tank report > > > > From: "John Biccum" > > > It took 6.526 gallons to fill, 46 mpg, about all I have been seeing > > since I shimmed the needle in the carb.. > > How much did you shim the needle? All I could find at the local > hardware store was 0.8mm (advice I'd read was 0.5 to 1.0mm) but it > mostly cured my 4700-5000rpm hestitation. I'm 1.75 turns out on the

pilot.

> > Curious to know what my new target gas mileage should be. > > Of course I have no clue what it was before I shimmed it. Probably a > function of the bike being non running more than running. Whats good > for bone stock? > > Tony >

[mrodub]

First off, I just want to apologize for another Doohickey thread, but I'm finally ready to gain some peace of mind and just change it. I've been reading these Doohickey posts for a couple years now and I've read just about eveything there is to know about this damn Doohickey. Is Eagle manufacturing the only supplier now? Does Sagebrush cease to exist? What are the differences between the two Doos. I see there are different size springs, which one should I run? My 90 Tengai has 13k on it and its starting to make some new noises. I just want to eliminate the Doo factor once and for all. Any info would be appreciated Thanks, Mike