how deep is too deep?

[kilrcalikawi]

Not that I really wan't to get rid of my KLR, but the original plan back in february was that my house was going to sell before I had to start making payments on the beast. Since the house hasn't sold yet, the KLR has to look for a new home. He has 4800 miles, new rear distanzia, and comes with a Givi E45 topcase with a backrest, all yours for $4500, I owe 5500 so I'm taking a $1000 loss for riding it for 6 months and pretty much throwing in the $300 givi case for free. Heck of a deal eh- Anywho, I'm close to sacramento CA and I'd be willing to deliver it within 300 miles or to a shipper within 300 miles. Trev kilrcalikawi@...

[pete88chester]

FOR SALE: 2002 Kawasaki KLR650. 20949 miles. $2700 Upgrades & Additions: Corbin flat seat (small rip lower left front). Moose shift lever. Clearview +9' windshield. Upgraded foot peg bolts. Allen head float bowl screws. Moose magnetic drain plug. Progressive Larry Rosseler fork springs. Acerbis Rally Pro handguards & wind deflectors. Dual Star billet oil filler cap & wrench. Dual Star sub-frame bolt upgrade kit. Dual Star motor mount nut (locking) upgrade kit. Galfer braided SS front brake line. Dual Star billet rear brake bracket for lever & master cylinder. Happy Trails lowering links (about 1+"). Dual Star front & rear wheel rim locks. Dual Star front & rear monster tubes. Odyssey PC545MJ zero maintenance battery (installed 9/2004). Uni Foam air cleaner (installed at 18000 miles). MS Racing yellow fork boots. Service Manuals: Kawasaki's & Clymer's. Doohickey upgrade using Sagebrush Machine Shop balancer idler shaft lever (Doohickey). Also the Doohickey is driven directly by a torsion spring. This is a better system than the tension spring that comes stock from Kawasaki. This is a modification I did & the first & only one I know of. There is a manufacturer that is planning to produce a torsion spring for the Doohickey in the future. Home Made Items of My Own Design: Full protection skid plate. Covers the bottom all the way back even with foot pegs & covers both the left side & right side cases. It is double thickness on the bottom. Highway pegs with built in left & right crash bars for protecting the radiator & the overflow area. These are very strong. The pegs are designed to fold out of the way so they don't get tore off in a crash. The fuel tank plastic wings bolt directly to the crash bars. Doesn't use the cheap stock tabs. Saddle bag racks & top rack (that replaces the stock Kawasaki unit). The racks are used with Pelican 1520 Cases that slip on & off the racks very easily. The cases lock to the racks with pad locks. The racks are very strong. For this set up I am charging an extra $100, which is just a little more than what one of the Pelican cases would cost you. If you don't want the racks & cases I will remove the racks & put the stock tail rack back on. Replaced the plastic front sprocket/chain guard with a home made steel one that will better protect The engine case. Extras: Throttle opening cable. Clutch cable. Spark plug. Other stuff at extra charge (prices if taken with bike): Magneto holder wrench: $10. Magneto-puller bolt: $5. Original stock seat: $70. If you want the stock seat instead of the Corbin I will switch at no charge. Description of bike etc.: First let me say this is not a pretty KLR650. If you are looking for something that looks like it came off the showroom floor, move on this isn't the bike for you. The tank is in very good shape, no scratches or dings, but the plastic is scratched & has stress discoloration. The bike has never been crashed at higher speeds, no bent frame parts etc. Just slow speed tip overs. I have ridden this bike on back roads & trails, but never hard & fast. The bike has been reasonable well maintained; oil changes, filter, lubrication, valve adjustments, etc. As it stands the bike needs new tires, but I figure there is no sense putting on new tires of a type the next owner may not want. There is some maintenance that needs to be done. The swing arm & rear shock linkage & the steering head bearings should be repacked with waterproof grease. I would also replace the drive chain & front & rear sprockets. I was getting ready to do this work in preparation for this years riding, but instead got a new bike. I have removed the clutch/side stand safety switches, but will put them back to make it safe. I think this will be a good bike for any one looking to try out a KLR650. The usual issues with the KLR650 have been addressed on this bike. The Kelly Blue Book shows a retail of $3100 for a basic '02 KLR650. I put my price at $2700 to reflect the needed maintenance, new tire, etc. I will try to put some pictures in the Photo section under, "Pete's KLR650". If interested emial me or call (928) 718-0052. I'm located in Kingman, AZ. Pete Chester

[Rodney Copeland]

Pretty sure your bike is a Smokin Deal at that price. Where Ya goin Pete! Rod,,,,wonderin about the New Bike --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "pete88chester" wrote:

> > FOR SALE: 2002 Kawasaki KLR650. 20949 miles. $2700 > > Upgrades & Additions: > > Corbin flat seat (small rip lower left front). Moose shift lever. > Clearview +9' windshield. Upgraded foot peg bolts. > Allen head float bowl screws. Moose magnetic drain plug. > Progressive Larry Rosseler fork springs. > Acerbis Rally Pro handguards & wind deflectors. Dual Star billet

oil

> filler cap & wrench. > Dual Star sub-frame bolt upgrade kit. Dual Star motor mount nut > (locking) upgrade kit. > Galfer braided SS front brake line. Dual Star billet rear brake > bracket for lever & master cylinder. > Happy Trails lowering links (about 1+"). Dual Star front & rear > wheel rim locks. > Dual Star front & rear monster tubes. Odyssey PC545MJ zero > maintenance battery (installed 9/2004). > Uni Foam air cleaner (installed at 18000 miles). MS Racing yellow > fork boots. > Service Manuals: Kawasaki's & Clymer's. > > Doohickey upgrade using Sagebrush Machine Shop balancer idler shaft > lever (Doohickey). Also the Doohickey is driven directly by a > torsion spring. This is a better system than the tension spring

that

> comes stock from Kawasaki. This is a modification I did & the

first

> & only one I know of. There is a manufacturer that is planning to > produce a torsion spring for the Doohickey in the future. > > Home Made Items of My Own Design: > > Full protection skid plate. Covers the bottom all the way back

even

> with foot pegs & covers both the left side & right side cases. It

is

> double thickness on the bottom. > > Highway pegs with built in left & right crash bars for protecting

the

> radiator & the overflow area. These are very strong. The pegs are > designed to fold out of the way so they don't get tore off in > a crash. The fuel tank plastic wings bolt directly to the crash > bars. Doesn't use the cheap stock tabs. > > Saddle bag racks & top rack (that replaces the stock Kawasaki

unit).

> The racks are used with Pelican 1520 Cases that slip on & off the > racks very easily. The cases lock to the racks with pad locks.

The

> racks are very strong. For this set up I am charging an extra

$100,

> which is just a little > more than what one of the Pelican cases would cost you. If you

don't

> want the racks & cases I will remove the racks & put the stock tail > rack back on. > > Replaced the plastic front sprocket/chain guard with a home made > steel one that will better protect > The engine case. > > Extras: > > Throttle opening cable. Clutch cable. Spark plug. > > Other stuff at extra charge (prices if taken with bike): > > Magneto holder wrench: $10. Magneto-puller bolt: $5. > > Original stock seat: $70. If you want the stock seat instead of

the

> Corbin I will switch at no charge. > > Description of bike etc.: > > First let me say this is not a pretty KLR650. If you are looking

for

> something that looks like it came off the showroom floor, move on > this isn't the bike for you. The tank is in very good shape, > no scratches or dings, but the plastic is scratched & has stress > discoloration. The bike has never been crashed at higher speeds,

no

> bent frame parts etc. Just slow speed tip overs. I have ridden > this bike on back roads & trails, but never hard & fast. The bike > has been reasonable well maintained; oil changes, filter, > lubrication, valve adjustments, etc. As it stands the bike needs

new

> tires, but I figure there is no sense putting on new tires of a

type

> the next owner may not want. There is some maintenance that needs

to

> be done. The swing arm & rear shock linkage & the steering head > bearings should be repacked with waterproof grease. I would also > replace the drive chain & front & rear sprockets. I was getting > ready to do this work in preparation for this years riding, but > instead got a new bike. I have removed the clutch/side stand

safety

> switches, but will put them back to make it safe. > > I think this will be a good bike for any one looking to try out a > KLR650. The usual issues with the KLR650 have been addressed on

this

> bike. The Kelly Blue Book shows a retail of $3100 for a basic '02 > KLR650. I put my price at $2700 to reflect the needed maintenance, > new tire, etc. > > I will try to put some pictures in the Photo section under, "Pete's > KLR650". If interested emial me or call > (928) 718-0052. I'm located in Kingman, AZ. > > Pete Chester >

[Jud Jones]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Rodney Copeland" wrote:

> > Pretty sure your bike is a Smokin Deal at that price. > Where Ya goin Pete! > Rod,,,,wonderin about the New Bike > >

Psst... Pete's riding a DR650 and hanging out on th Yahoo DR650 site. Don't ask how I know.

[anavark]

If you have the t-mod and don't stall, within reason the airbox opening seems to be the upper limit (which is, of course, just below the seat). I've had my bike stuck in water deeper than the tailpipe at a slight angle so the airbox was able to get air and it didn't stall, just gurgled like a speedboat. Or maybe a tug boat. I was nervous as hell that it would suck in water, though--you don't don't to be pushing out of water that deep. I think if you were in there long enough, you may have problems with electics??? I know the magic box is as high as the intake, but I wonder about lower connections. -Luke

> I've read messages about water getting into the carbuetor and have > experienced river and stream crossing up to 18" deep. However, I've > never had problems with water and my carb. At what depth of water > and/or contributing factors cause water related problems? > > John > Napa, CA >