1989 for $1400 ... it was sold!
- 
				scott quillen
 - Posts: 154
 - Joined: Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:17 am
 
1989 for $1400 ... it was sold!
I'll sell you my 87 with 5000 miles for $2500...sorry, just kidding ;^)
    
   Keep looking...you'll find the right one at the right price!
    
   Regards,
   Scott
 
 aztecredklr650  wrote:
   Well guys,
 It seems that an 89 with 7000 miles is worth $1400...maybe more! I 
 contacted the seller and he told me it was just sold. Only took him 
 24 hrs to sell it! Seems like the KLR is the latest hot commodity.
 
 Bummed out!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html
 List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com 
 List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
 Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 
 Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 				
 ---------------------------------
 Bring words and photos together (easily) with
  PhotoMail  - it's free and works with your Yahoo! Mail.
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
			
			
									
									
						- 
				jerovital
 - Posts: 1
 - Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:44 am
 
second hand klr
Hi,
 
 I have an 89 KLR that took me all over Mexico before the balancer 
 lever busted, the loose chain wore out all the sprokes, and the bike 
 has been parked since (5 years) 
 A few weeks ago I ran into an 87 model that had been in an accident, 
 and had damaged forks and front wheel, but the engine was fine.  I 
 thought it was just what I needed, so I took it home for a couple 
 hundred. I though it would be easy: just take my healthy forks and 
 front tire, install them in the new bike, and ride away.  But 
 there's been some problems.
 
 1.  After installing forks and wheel on the new bike I noticed that 
 when if I hold the handlebars straight, the front wheel is not 
 straight, its turned 30 degrees to one side!  Could that be because 
 I installed it incorrectly? (I thought it was just a mater of 
 putting in the forks, tightening, and then putting the front wheel 
 in, I didn't think any other adjustements were necessary) Is there a 
 chance the crash that damaged the forks also damaged the fork 
 braces? (it seems like too solid a piece to get bent)
 
 2.  Stupid question: On a "healthy" KLR, if you remove the rubber 
 hoses that go from gas tank to carburator, and put tank lever 
 on "open" position, does gas drip from the tank? Because it is not 
 dripping from the new bike's tank, but I don't know if there is 
 something stuck there (the bike was parked for 3 years) or that's 
 the way it is supposed to work.
 
 3.  Any recomendations on the best procedures to follow to start a 
 KLR engine after its been parked for a number of years?
 
 Many thanks in advance for the help
 
 
    
                       -J
- 
				Blake Sobiloff
 - Posts: 1077
 - Joined: Fri Nov 26, 2004 11:29 pm
 
second hand klr
On Jan 29, 2006, at 7:43 AM, jerovital wrote:
 
			
			
									
									
						With the front wheel in place, loosen the triple clamp bolts a bit (not all the way) and see if you can make the front wheel and handlebars point in the right direction together. It is easy to get the wheel out of alignment with the handlebars if you install the forks without the wheel.> 1. After installing forks and wheel on the new bike I noticed that > when if I hold the handlebars straight, the front wheel is not > straight, its turned 30 degrees to one side!
A good condition "tank lever" (petcock) will act like this. The petcock needs vacuum from the engine before it will allow any gas to flow.> 2. Stupid question: On a "healthy" KLR, if you remove the rubber > hoses that go from gas tank to carburator, and put tank lever > on "open" position, does gas drip from the tank?
Fresh gas, fresh oil and oil filter, fresh coolant, fresh brake fluid, fresh fork fluid, check the battery water level. Turn the petcock off to prevent the bike from starting and hit the starter for three seconds, wait ten seconds, repeat a couple more times. This will get a little oil circulating and gently get the engine parts moving again. If the previous owner didn't drain the gas from carburetor the pilot circuit is probably varnished and you'll have a very tough time getting it started. You may be looking at having to remove the carb, disassemble, clean, re-assemble and install before the bike will run. Good luck! -- Blake Sobiloff http://sobiloff.typepad.com/> San Jose, CA (USA)> 3. Any recomendations on the best procedures to follow to start a > KLR engine after its been parked for a number of years?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 31 guests