galfer braided (front) line installation

[le5150mv]

Hello all, I am having a problem with my 2003 klr650. When I purchased the bike (used), it had only 4000 miles on it. However, the choke lever was broken from a crash. Now, in the winter, I have a very difficult time starting the bike. I can crank and crank the starter, and the bike will "hiccup" like it wants to start, but it won't. I finally had to bump start it yesterday, before the battery died. What gives? The bike had sat for about one month without being run. Yesterday was a mild day, about 55 degrees F. Does a choke make it much easier to start the bike, or do you do like me, and play with the throttle? Is it normal for klr's to be difficult to start? Any help would be appreciated for this new klr owner.

[Tony JONES]

> Hello all, I am having a problem with my 2003 klr650. When I > purchased the bike (used), it had only 4000 miles on it. However, > the choke lever was broken from a crash.

Did you remove the enricher (choke) cable from the carb and check that the plunger is ok? What kind of crash? Any visible damage? Left side?

> Now, in the winter, I have a very difficult time starting the bike.

What about between when you purchased the bike (w/ broken choke) and now? Thats somewhat useful info to have? What did you do to fix the choke, did it run? You said it was a month since it last run, thats not enough to varnish the fuel, unless it hadn't been run for a long time before then (it's a big tank

> I can crank and crank the starter, and the bike will "hiccup" like > it wants to start, but it won't. I finally had to bump start it > yesterday, before the battery died.

So you bump started it to prevent the battery totally dying rather than the battery died after bump starting. Unclear. Anyways, after you bump started it and it was warm would it reliably start from the battery? I'll give my easy and painful advice paths: Easy: take out the battery, have it tested (Batteries Plus etc can do this). Replace if it tests bad. Charge it on a trickle charger (1/2A). Get a new spark plug ($2.50). Install plug, check the wire and cap is nice-n-tight. Start bike. If it won't start after 2/3 tries, bump start it. Ride the bike for 20 mins. Leave it for 6 hours, try starting from the battery, if it does, leave it overnight, try starting from the battery, repeat (with necessary trickle charging). Painful: Assuming it turns into a reproducable problem gas and spark are the usual elements. The enricher circuit could be at fault assuming you have good fuel flow and good spark. You could have spark but it's weak, blockage in the gas tank vents, damage to the petcock diaphragm preventing sufficient fuel flow, internal carb issues, poor valve clearance etc etc etc. I'm suspicious about crash damage. On my bike, when it was acting up like this replacing the plug would get it to start from the battery but not for long and it eventually turned out to be the exciter coil. The two coils are easily testable with an ohmmeter and my advice is to do it BEFORE you tear into the carb. Tony

[Rodney Copeland]

Funny thing about my 03. It needs the enricher after a half hour break from hard runnin in 70deg temps. There hasn't been much talk about the adjustment of the cable, over the years. I think we can help, but you have to have the enricher operational in my opinion. No doubt in my mind though, the KLR has to enriched to start, but starts like clockwork with proper operation of the (Choke Lever) in subfreezin temps. Rod

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "le5150mv" wrote: > > Hello all, I am having a problem with my 2003 klr650. When I > purchased the bike (used), it had only 4000 miles on it. However, the > choke lever was broken from a crash. Now, in the winter, I have a > very difficult time starting the bike. I can crank and crank the > starter, and the bike will "hiccup" like it wants to start, but it > won't. I finally had to bump start it yesterday, before the battery > died. What gives? The bike had sat for about one month without being > run. Yesterday was a mild day, about 55 degrees F. Does a choke make > it much easier to start the bike, or do you do like me, and play with > the throttle? Is it normal for klr's to be difficult to start? Any > help would be appreciated for this new klr owner. >

[Analog Aardvark]

Hi. First, two things to remember--on the KLR, the "choke" actually richens the mixture by adding a little extra fuel rather than by restricting the air/oxygen. Second, the throttle cable is connected to a butterfly (a big valve) that controls the amount of air entering the carb/engine, NOT to a little fuel pump. This means that if the engine isn't running and able to raise its revs to match the air intake, opening the throttle allows more air than required and leans the mixture out rather than richening it and helping it to start. At least this is my understanding. What this means is that if your engine is set up right, it will start the best with the throttle left alone in the relaxed position and the "choke" (really an enrichener, remember) on. Goosing the throttle works against you. Fix the choke (it's only about $10 for a lever) and it'll start happily in sub freezing temps with no complaints. -Luke

> > Hello all, I am having a problem with my 2003 > klr650. When I > > purchased the bike (used), it had only 4000 miles > on it. However, > the > > choke lever was broken from a crash. Now, in the > winter, I have a > > very difficult time starting the bike. I can > crank and crank the > > starter, and the bike will "hiccup" like it wants > to start, but it > > won't. I finally had to bump start it yesterday, > before the battery > > died. What gives? The bike had sat for about one > month without > being > > run. Yesterday was a mild day, about 55 degrees > F. Does a choke > make > > it much easier to start the bike, or do you do > like me, and play with > > the throttle? Is it normal for klr's to be > difficult to start? Any > > help would be appreciated for this new klr owner. > >

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[cyclemanhotrod]

A friend had problems with his Galfer line too, but his seemed too long. After he had it all hooked up, there was a loop that went right up to the front tire. He tried moving the loop out but then the top mounting hole was off and had to be twisted some to get the bolt in. He showed me the brake pads and we both thought that they looked worn out already they were so thin. Everything seemed to work ok but the pads wore quickly. I've only seen a few places (I'm sure there's more)that offer an adjustable line at both ends and EBC pads. It was on multisurfacemotorcycling.com I'm thinking of getting one for myself. Cycleman