fork oil change last try

[Guest]

Can anyone please give me the type and amount of recommended fork oil to slosh the new LR progressive springs in when I get them in two days? I got no manual yet for the 91 KLR 650. I know I am asking for trouble when I say "Recommended", but then this list is not very opinionated and I am sure I'll get the book answer...right? Thanks Megs Nucci 91 KLR650 75 Z1-B

[Steve Green]

I am running 450 cc of 10 w Belray with 2" spacers in each leg along with my progressive springs. I weigh 180 lb and ride agressively...grrrrrrrr. Seems to work pretty well. Steve

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Nucci wrote: > Can anyone please give me the type and amount of recommended fork oil to slosh the > new LR progressive springs in when I get them in two days? I got no manual yet for > the 91 KLR 650. I know I am asking for trouble when I say "Recommended", but then > this list is not very opinionated and I am sure I'll get the book answer...right? > > > Thanks Megs > > Nucci > 91 KLR650 > 75 Z1-B

[darkthought@worldnet.att.net]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Nucci wrote:

> Can anyone please give me the type and amount of recommended fork > oil to slosh the new LR progressive springs in when I get them in > two days? I got no manual yet for the 91 KLR 650. I know I am > asking for trouble when I say "Recommended", but then this list is > not very opinionated and I am sure I'll get the book answer...right? > > > Thanks Megs > > Nucci > 91 KLR650 > 75 Z1-B

I went with 380ml of 15W Spectro per side. 2" PVC spacer. So far so good, but I haven't got any rough road / off road time on it yet. Brian 95 KLR 650

[Marc Illsley Clarke]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Nucci wrote:

> Can anyone please give me the type and amount of recommended fork

oil to slosh the

> new LR progressive springs in when I get them in two days? I got

no manual yet for

> the 91 KLR 650. I know I am asking for trouble when I

say "Recommended", but then

> this list is not very opinionated and I am sure I'll get the book

answer...right?

> > Nucci > 91 KLR650

I just installed my Progressive LR fork springs last weekend, so I still have the numbers pretty much in my head. The most important specification is to add fork oil to 190mm +/- 2mm from the top of the fork tube, with the measurement taken to the oil in the center of the tube. Note that the base service manual for the older KLRs specified 170mm +/- 2mm, but the supplement for the newer models (such as yours and mine) specifies 190mm +/- 2mm. The amount of oil the manual specified was 430ml, but that assumed the volume of the stock Kawasaki fork springs rather than the thicker coils, tighter winds, and longer length of the Progressive springs. I did not believe that the volume of fork oil specified in the manual would be a reliable measure with the LR fork springs. So, I filled my forks unitl I got oil 190mm from the top of the fork, measured to the oil in the center of the fork tube. I used 15 weight BelRay fork oil. I ended up adding approximately 425ml of fork oil to each fork tube leg, but I did not measure with great precision. The LR springs and the 15 weight oil have completely cured my KLR650's proclivity to dive heavily under braking or rolling off the throttle. I love the change. I suggest you use a bent clothes hanger, carefully cut off at the 190mm mark so you can stick the clothes hanger into the fork tube, and shine a flashlight down the tube, then reference the bent part of the hanger on the top of the fork tube. When you get enough oil into the fork tube to touch the bottom of the hanger, you are done. If you put too much in, drain a little out the bottom and try again. Simple and cheap. -- Marc, KLR650 A12, Loveland, Colorado, USA

[Ron Hipkiss]

"I suggest you use a bent clothes hanger, carefully cut off at the 190mm mark so you can stick the clothes hanger into the fork tube, and shine a flashlight down the tube, then reference the bent part of the hanger on the top of the fork tube. When you get enough oil into the fork tube to touch the bottom of the hanger, you are done. If you put too much in, drain a little out the bottom and try again. Simple and cheap." What a PITA! Well, it could be worse, but that still a long way down in the tube. Is the spec for when the forks are compressed or extended? I assume that measurement is for no springs, right? That's a good solution, though. Cpt. Ron

[Marc Illsley Clarke]

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Ron Hipkiss" wrote:

> "I suggest you use a bent clothes hanger, carefully cut off at the > 190mm mark so you can stick the clothes hanger into the fork tube, > and shine a flashlight down the tube, then reference the bent part

of

> the hanger on the top of the fork tube. When you get enough oil

into

> the fork tube to touch the bottom of the hanger, you are done. If > you put too much in, drain a little out the bottom and try again. > Simple and cheap." > > What a PITA! Well, it could be worse, but that still a long way

down in the

> tube. Is the spec for when the forks are compressed or extended?

I assume

> that measurement is for no springs, right? That's a good solution,

though.

> > Cpt. Ron

OK, if you want the non-PITA approach, I bought a Progressive brand fork oil adjustment kit. It consists of a large syringe, a piece of clear tubing, and a hollow metal tube with a fitting for the fork's end cap. The plastic tube connects the syringe's business end to the end of the hollow metal tube. The hollow tube be slid up and down within the fitting for the fork's end cap. There is set screw to firmly hold the hollow tube at a fixed extension from the fitting. One simply carefully measures the distance from the end of the hollow tube (which will define the top of the oil level in the fork's tube) to the bottom of the fitting (which will set in the top of the fork tube and hold the hollow tube exactly in the middle of the fork tube). In practice, one simply puts a little too much fork oil into the fork tube and then inserts the Progressive tool. The hollow tube projects down into the fork tube exactly the correct distance. One simply draws oil into the syringe until the syringe starts pulling air. At this point the fork oil is at exactly the correct level and you are done adjusting the level. Using the Progressive kit also assures that the oil level in the two forks is exactly the same. I was able to set the depth of the hollow tube to within 1mm. I suggested the bent hanger and flashlight technique because it is free. I think I spent $30 for the Progressive fork oil adjustment kit. Kind of pricey for a syringe, a piece of plastic tube, and a hollow tube with a fitting. If I thought about it for a while I could duplicate it for under $5.00 by visiting my local farming supply store for the hollow copper tube, the clear plastic tubing, and the large vetrinary horse syringe. The fork tube top fitting I could make with a piece of wood with a hole drilled through it to slide the hollow tube through. Yes, the fork oil level measurement is made with the springs, washer, and spacer all removed and with the forks fully collapsed. I put my bike up on its nifty Dual-Star center stand to perform the operation. I put a cinder block brick and a chunk of 2x4 under the front wheel to keep the front forks fully compressed. -- Marc, KLR650 A12, Loveland, Colorado, USA

[Marc Illsley Clarke]

Make that "The hollow tube *can* be slid up and down within the fitting for the fork's end cap." Sorry for the typo. -- Marc

[nakedwaterskier]

Can you just take off the top caps and take out the drainplugs on bottom and let it drain for a half hour, put plugs back and fill em up? If so, what is the best guess for amount in each fork? Jeffrey

[Mike Peplinski]

Thats what I did and it worked just fine. I put a little fresh fluid in and let it flow through to cleanse the system. I couldn't believe the gunk that came out. This was a good move. I can't find the exact measurement but you're supposed to fill to a specified point below the top of the fork tube with the tube extended. The remaining air chamber is part of the overall system and should not be messed with, like putting more fluid in or pressuring the chamber. I went to a higher (numerical) viscosity, about 10wt, and added 1 inch to the spacer tubes. The results were amazing. Way less dive. Good luck. If no one else responds with the correct specifications I'll go out to the garage (sigh) and get my book.

>From: "nakedwaterskier" >To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com >Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Fork Oil Change Question >Date: Tue, 24 Jan 2006 05:15:40 -0000 > >Can you just take off the top caps and take out the drainplugs on >bottom and let it drain for a half hour, put plugs back and fill em >up? If so, what is the best guess for amount in each fork? > >Jeffrey > > > > > >Archive Quicksearch at: >http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html >List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com >List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html >Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > >

[Analog Aardvark]

We just went all through this, but in case it saves you from blowing your fork seals: YOU MEASURE THE FORK FLUID WITH THE FORK LEG COMPRESSED. You will need to remove the springs and spacers to do this (they both pull right out with the top caps off). It's really simple to remove the whole fork leg and hang it upside down to REALLY drain, which most folks recommend, but no you don't NEED to. You do need to measure the height of the fluid rather than simply just how much you pour in b/c it never ALL gets out. My workbook says 190mm (about 7 1/2") from the top of the tube and that's what I'm running. 10 weight BelRay is what I use, some folks use ATF. -Luke PS--search the archives.

> Thats what I did and it worked just fine. I can't

find the

> exact measurement but > you're supposed to fill to a specified point below > the top of the fork tube > with the tube extended. > >Can you just take off the top caps and take out the > drainplugs on > >bottom and let it drain for a half hour, put plugs > back and fill em > >up?

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