which fork seal: leakproof or oem

[Tom Geimer]

Attempted to shim the needle over the weekend. Everything came apart nicely, #4 shim when in, thought I got the diaphram seated properly, put everything back together and tested. Seemed to be smooth and rev quicker than before. Roll forward 24 hours, prep for day ride. Ride 1 mile, fill up with gas and she won't refire. Smelled ultra rich and even popped one very loud fart. Killed the battery. After push starting it, rode back to the barn. Undid the needle shim and thinking that I probably didn't get the diaphram properly seated in the groove before recapping the carb. Took a lot more time to make sure that everything was seated the second time and got things back to normal. Runs fine again, especially with the new battery. Now to consider whether to reshim the carb again . . . . . .

[David Farrell]

Thanks for the input. I guess I need to go to the dealer and order OEM seals. Is there anything else besides the two seals (one for each fork) that are needed to perform this job. David Farrell --- wannabsmooth1 wrote:

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, David Farrell > wrote: > > > > I am getting ready to change the fork seals in my > > KLR650. I was going to use Leak Proof seals. I > > started searching through some of the post from > the > > past I have saved. In these, I found a thread > awhile > > back where Leak Proof seals were discussed and > > encouraged not to be used and Kawasaki OEM seals > were > > said to be the way to go. I saw no explanation > why > > one was better than the other or the reason why. > Can > > anybody on the list with experience with fork > seals > > shed some light on this > > Thanks, > > David Farrell > > > David, > > On this list "Leakproof" has historically meant > "leaking soon, on a > bike near you......" > > all the best, > > Mike > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: >

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